Rockfax Description
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack (good wires). Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. HVS for those who don't mind exposed padding. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Kirkus 1934

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Kirkus Routes, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s.

JackM92 13/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Ridiculously straightforward at E1? Provided you can do a 5a move with a probable death fall. The strenous move is well protected.

JonoDHawkins 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Great route - more interesting padding up the slab than expected. Real need for psyche getting into the corner but not too shabby when established - so much fun!

with James
Hidden 11/Nov/17 2nd dnf
Rob Laird 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Jwatson 26/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/17 Lead O/S
mrteale 01/Sep/17 Solo rpt
SagShaun ?/Sep/17 Lead
LBrown 25/Aug/17 Solo
kez1 24/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with JonesE
JonesE 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Padded up the slab between FBD and the arete thinking it was the natural start for this route, ended up being quite a stiff little slab climb but definitely added value. Took a little while to figure out the crux but went pretty easily once sussed. The open groove was a walk in the park compared to the slab start.

with Kez
Hidden 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/17 2nd O/S
db79 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Lovely little route. An unprotected slab at the start (if you take the Rockfax line) - especially if you keep to the right on the slab and don't stray into FBD - a bouldery move through the roof, and then proper gritstone padding up the wall above. Slopers were better than expected, with a nice exposed runout.

will_benfold 04/Aug/17 2nd O/S
TwofoZeus 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Outstanding, but oh so very bold after getting established on the face. Good strong start after the slab. So run out and gearless, it's probably best to solo it

Neil McA 22/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Stan, Jon Morgan
morganator 22/Jul/17 2nd
with Stan Halstead
SGD 20/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Excellent. Top section feels longer than it is, balancy with no gear complete contrast to the boulder problem start.

Hidden 12/Jul/17 Lead
mrteale 06/Jul/17 Solo O/S

Lovely climb that's escaped my attention up to this point, will be adding it to the bimble circuit.

Hidden ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
sparkass 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
adam clarke 17/Jun/17 TR rpt

TR solo

adam clarke 17/Jun/17 TR dog

TR solo

harry_lewis 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Abel
tim.fairhall 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Sachi
Just Another Dave 24/May/17 -
with Ian Lau
Hidden 24/May/17 Lead β
Chris Murray 21/May/17 2nd
DanChad 21/May/17 Lead O/S
Will Webb 07/May/17 Lead
with Alex
AF Webb 07/May/17 2nd β
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
scottcoates 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with williap
williap 02/Apr/17 2nd
royle883 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Scary upper groove

julesmckim 25/Mar/17 2nd β
with paul jenkinson
MSchobitz 09/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Jamie Sparkes, USMC
Hidden 09/Mar/17 2nd rpt
pingora 04/Mar/17 2nd dog
with Rory
Rory_Cummings_NI 04/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Guy Bennell ??/2017 Lead
pete1993 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead rpt
dr_botnik 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Mike W
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd
birks3746 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Should've walked round the side to spot the obvious cam placements...didnt and ended up what felt like miles above the gear, placed a naff cam out right and then sketched my way up the top section. Not sure I'd want to bridge it like the guidebook suggested

with Alice Browne
td72 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Mike M
bryan61 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Tom D, m meaney
andrzej kierzek 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with James
ipegg 18/Jun/16 2nd
Katsmiff 18/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Failed miserably. Couldn't seem to reach. Having a bad day on grit, which is weird cos I love grit usually.

Katsmiff 18/Jun/16 2nd rpt

After failing miserably at leading this, handed over to Ian to lead, who didn't even have the decency to struggle a little.

Tala A 06/Jun/16 2nd dog

Rested once, think the sun had gone to my head. Though I don't think I'll bother to come back and do it again.

Dale ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S

A fun route a very safe crux quite powerful to a spicy run out 5a balancy groove. fun fun

with Tim
Senna 30/May/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead G/U
cragsman9000 05/May/16 Lead rpt
with Neil
bob_cbr 05/May/16 2nd rpt
hervenuttall ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Matt W
AxelC 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Craig Silvie
Slyven 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Axel
JamesWilliams 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S

hardish rock onto the gear and an easy all be it a little airy in the upper groove

with Becky
beckyjg 22/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 29/Dec/15 2nd β
Hidden 20/Dec/15 Lead rpt
Ardo 20/Dec/15 2nd O/S
with Andy
OliverRoss 01/Nov/15 2nd
with Alkis
Alkis 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

It was quite sweaty and I missed a possible cam to the left of the cam, so the top got rather delicate.

Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
DHHZ 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Rose
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Luke90 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 11/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Luke
Hidden 11/Sep/15 -
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Sent rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 2nd
scarmichael 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S

beautiful dyno move at the crux, bomber holds!

Andrew Lodge 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A climb of contrasts, gentle padding up the lower slab then powerful moves over the bulge followed by very exposed padding up the open groove. Splendid

with Pete, Steve
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
ChrisVickers 28/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead rpt
John Nuttall 01/May/15 2nd
with Andy Peak 1
Brannock 23/Apr/15 2nd
markfairbank 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Anne Gumbley, Harry Middleton
OliverRoss 13/Apr/15 2nd
with Neil Davies, Ryan Baird
ned_85 13/Apr/15 Lead
with Ryan Baird, Ollie Ross
Jackwd 08/Apr/15 2nd β
with Luca Celano
LJC 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
oread 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
NickyC 04/Apr/15 2nd
with Oli Read
Luke Brooks 19/Mar/15 -
with Delyth
Teappleby 05/Nov/14 Lead
benkelsey 05/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Albachoss 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
RKirke 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Banksy
Andrew Abraham 29/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Paul Deane
Hidden 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S
NickJH 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
cem 10/Oct/14 Lead dnf

A 3 week climbing trip to the US hasn't made me any less crap on grit. Swung out left too early and fell off. And I've led it before...

with Ralph
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
georgenvk 28/Sep/14 2nd RP
mike8331 05/Sep/14 Lead
with pete bates, clive phillips
mat cooper ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
bob_cbr 28/Aug/14 2nd O/S
cragsman9000 28/Aug/14 2nd β
with Neil
fabricio 23/Aug/14 Lead β
with lee
chancer 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Fraser Campbell
Gympaul ?/Aug/14 -
ashtond6 13/Jul/14 2nd rpt
charley 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The crux has good gear, the top is bold and rounded and you wouldn't want to fall off but it's all there and steady as long as you keep your head. Actually, I embarrassedly spent more time working out the move on the the slab at the start.

with Mark
MDR61 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Nice route and good solid lead by Charley boy. Thought the hardest part of this was the pad up the corner of the slab, very delicate if you stick to the route proper. One easy pull though the roof then straightforward but bold (for leader). I though it was easier than FBD - apart from the two slab moves

with charley
Tithe Technique 05/Jul/14 TR dog
valentinesbabe 05/Jul/14 TR

Surprisingly nice. Had to power yell my way up trhough the overhangs though :D

the power 29/Jun/14 2nd dnf
admackie 29/Jun/14 Lead
freemanTom 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Been eyeing it up for a while and since it was Bens first E1 felt appropriate to climb it on his wedding day. Sweaty hands added to interest.

with Stuart gmc
Rachel Slater 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jack93 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 13/Jun/14 Lead RP

Bit of a nemesis route after I failed hard a few years ago. Felt very easy today. Top section very very bold!

James Oswald ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Seconded, nice climbing.

WillDoyle 02/May/14 Lead O/S
bencole ?/May/14 Lead rpt
tebs 12/Apr/14 2nd rpt

One move wonder. Scary top section though

with Adam
robw007 11/Apr/14 Lead β
Nick1812P 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
benkelsey 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S

warm up

climberchristy 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Pull over the lip is well-protected. Thereafter it is easy but run out. A fine climb

with bencole
stp 11/Mar/14 Solo rpt

Not sure why this route has been upgraded to E1. I first did it 1982 and its exactly the same now as it was then. It's not even polished. The only thing that has changed is protection is better now and boots and sticky rubber make things easier now. Still a great little HVS problem though.

bwestwood 05/Mar/14 Lead
pie_eater_pete 05/Mar/14 Lead
with bwestwood
ashtond6 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Kasha
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
kasha_gregson 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Bram
Callum Smith ?/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/14 -
Hidden 02/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead
robgixer 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Gudge 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JamesRich 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Stanners 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Found the start quite tough and the top pretty easy although it does still feel like you are soloing 4c moves.

Hardcore Pat 30/Jul/13 Lead β

A little sketched.

with Matt Tregellas
treg 30/Jul/13 2nd
with Patrick
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead
The Norris 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Gavin
Fragmod 26/Jul/13 Lead
Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
freudy_love 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Macpherson
RUDIN.J.D.H 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
kyaizawa 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 06/Jun/13 Solo
jwpil 06/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Jake
Jake Young 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
rurp 04/Jun/13 Lead β

great route

with mark weatherhead, bill farmer
the power 01/Jun/13 2nd
with deacon
Stoney Boy 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Buskwood
JEP 07/May/13 Lead
Andy Hardy 07/May/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd
Wayne S 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tony
Brown 15/Apr/13 2nd
with Rob G
annep11 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Will Hunt 02/Mar/13 2nd rpt
Liam Ingram 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Mowglee 02/Mar/13 Lead

Rescued off the top move. The shame!

dominic lee 17/Feb/13 Solo
George Nichols 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Crux is smashing fun, but the finish is terrifying.

with Matt Walters, Mark Stitson
Kevster 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/12 Lead β
Benn A 26/Oct/12 TR
ian d f 14/Oct/12 Lead
with Olaf
masa-alpin 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Mitch, Tim S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/12 2nd
with Greg Cunningham
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead β
Hidden 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Jordan B 17/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Dibdawg 10/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Keendan 07/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Alex Winter 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Bit beefy pulling round roof, then a bit spooky pulling out of groove. 1934! Colin Kirkus was a nutter.

with W. Morgan
barni 26/Aug/12 TR rpt


d80f0u 13/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Dave led, I failed at crux move

with Dave
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
The Big Sender 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
alexshaw_92 11/Aug/12 TR dnf
Cake 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

The top makes it hard to grade, but the slab moves below and the steep move are good

Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jwpil 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
Hidden 01/Aug/12 2nd O/S
roberto18 01/Aug/12 Lead
Ewano 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Really nice. Pretty straightforward, just a slightly pumpy move. Top groove is fine but unprotected.

shed_hed 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Alun Freem
mwatson 12/Jun/12 Solo O/S
BRoe 26/May/12 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
deacondeacon 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
thefuturesmiles ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
williamsd79 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S
centurion05 14/Jan/12 Lead
with dyl
jacktomlinson ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Jack.H.92 22/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Jagger
Hidden 01/Dec/11 Solo RP
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Nov/11 Lead

The much-photoed crux moves are nowhere near as strenuous as suggested. A nice rest can be had at the bottom of the groove whilst deciding on the optimum finishing sequence. Class route. Great fun so long as you know what you are getting yourself into.

mtempest 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
JasRY 18/Nov/11 Lead dog

Very dissapointed, was just too cold to hang on and couldn't feel my fingers! Crux move wasn't too hard either!

with Alan Caley
Hidden 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/11 2nd RP
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
Ewan Russell 16/Oct/11 Solo O/S

reckon its hvs for the tall as the unprotected top bit ain't very hard. Good though pleased to do another kirkus classic.

with Huw
The Bad Cough 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Christian Minett
Hidden 16/Oct/11 2nd
Woodiee 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

retrieving gear for someone

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/11 Lead O/S
louby 18/Sep/11 2nd
chris_B 18/Sep/11 Lead

found a lot more gear than the old rockfax cover-shot would suggest

Matt Cooke 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
climbinmunkey 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Crux was easier than I expected especially given its next to FBD! Very enjoyable route and the second half is pretty spicy as the last gear is so low. Felt like soloing a VS.

with Ken
al123 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

maybe a hard HVS, but good moves

Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
domskezz ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jamma
dan gibson 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Karl Wooffindin 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Amazing line, the scoop has just enough to get you by!

with Bryce Rigler
disturbed_one51 28/Jun/11 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 21/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Ian Holtby
Dr Toph 13/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Nice, bit technical.

w.pettet-smith 08/Jun/11 Lead

nice, really enjoyed it, had a nice chat to some bulgaria based folk at the top.

with claire jane carter
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
wi11 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sam Read
the_one_jim 28/May/11 Lead β

Awesome. The slightly airy second half of the route was 'interesting' in high winds...

bennidavies90 15/May/11 TR
gonzo_ls9 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with d
Roberttaylor 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route : ) Hard moves form a sloper at my gear... the climbing above felt fine after the morning of soloing.

with Helen, James Lear
Goose4 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ross, Ed (Andrew Adwards)
tebs 08/Apr/11 Lead β

Didn't climb this particularly well, went too far left on the crux into slopey and dirty territory and had to reverse for a second go. Very straightforward once Tim had told me what to do. Upper section is very nice.

with Tim
JulesV 07/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Phill Mitch 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
Martin Haworth 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Smith
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Danstephens 22/Mar/11 2nd β
galpinos 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Ben T
adi bryant 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Hat's off to you Colin : )

with Lee
leegodson1989 25/Feb/11 2nd dog
with Adi
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Mark Warnett ??/2011 Lead O/S
hilty ??/2011 Lead O/S

Easy for e1

Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
andrew300169 19/Nov/10 2nd dog

Fell off, not that difficult a move but wasn't strong enough to get it wrong.

nai 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Cal
tomB 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Jack Loftus 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Nick
PeteH 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
Will Hunt 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Ralph Burden
Jonathan Hall 04/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Spence22 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Wil
James Oakes 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S


Bill Lawrence 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

on oakseys gear but it wouldnt have affected a thing. found the traversey bit hard

Jim Slater 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Felt low in the grade. Pretty straight forward, just bold after the crux.

with Angus Malcolm, Phil Lee
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Dave Foster 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

HVS climbing with E1 runout. Nice route.

with Andy
theotherpetehill 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Didn't have any gear except by the groove a little scary

Ahab 08/Jul/10 Lead dog

After a night shift...

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Bry 06/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Paul
geddicakes 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Sparks
Mr Sparkle 06/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
AndyFrank 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Burton
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 13/May/10 2nd O/S
fennerz 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd
Jack Loftus 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nick
craig naylor 27/Apr/10 Lead
with jack, nick
BeccaSnowden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP

Went the wrong way first time and fell off. So much easier when I was told the right way! Thanks for the guys that gave me the beta. Nice and scary top section :)

nadeem 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead
Andy Moles 22/Apr/10 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 22/Apr/10 Lead

rested once

JohnAI 15/Apr/10 2nd
bigphil 15/Apr/10 Lead
with Mark
Nile Harwood-Jenkins 07/Apr/10 TR
jon clayton 05/Apr/10 Lead
with jeremy dodd
mic_b 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Skinner
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
cem 21/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
JWB 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Found the crux very easy....... but I am tall! Upper section quite intense!

adam.butler.dsfc 21/Mar/10 TR dnf
Ollie B 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with S.Lake
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
RM199 ??/2010 2nd dog
RossG ??/2010 -
Wil Treasure ??/2010 Lead
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Neil McA 13/Nov/09 2nd rpt

in damp, cold, misty conditions - keen!

with Andy Perkins
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
lrandall 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Looking for something more balancey then Flying Buttress Direct, shouldn't have picked this! The slab to start and the groove above fit the bill but the crux was thuggish. Found the move, but then had to down climb and shake out on the slab before I could get it. Very enjoyable but the path rising to the right of the crux seriously diminishes the sense of exposure.

dannyboy83 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Shane
Milne 13/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead
mark20 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead
Jamie Goodwin 27/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead
Twisty 15/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Nigel Stock
Nexonen 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Andy L
Ben Watts 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

My first E1 :-)

with Kyle Rance
Kyle Rance 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 08/Sep/09 Solo

+ decent circuit of routes before rain.

Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mark D 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S
vertigo 22/Aug/09 Lead RP

Stayed too low 1st time and ended up in sweaty sloper land.

Ben Harper 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/09 2nd rpt
BicepAndrews 13/Aug/09 Lead dog

I fell and decked out. Dont climb left at the bottom, climb right. Makes it alot easier if you follow the red line in the guidebook! Luckilly I landed on my feet from a few metres up.

Billg 06/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Solo O/S
chris sm 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Ben1983 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Stig 16/Jul/09 Lead rpt

Not to be underestimated on lead!

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
PenJD 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
djp1 02/Jun/09 2nd
with smudge
smudge 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
melonmike ?/Jun/09 2nd β
ian storey 27/May/09 2nd
with tez29
Tez29 27/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 21/May/09 Lead O/S
JGW ?/May/09 2nd
with Matt Tilley
PanzerHanzler 23/Apr/09 Lead dnf
with Rachel
vanderz 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
riddle 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Superb route, scary top section!

with Yasmina
metal arms 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
vvanhinsbergh 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S


hamish2016 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with vince vahinsberg
Wood for Trees 04/Mar/09 Lead O/S

top section was a bit unnerving

with Mikey, Mick and Al
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/08 Solo O/S
clive-greenwood 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Thought pulling up using the crack as the hardest part, took three tries (downclimbs to rest after bobbing up to look or try), after that it was easy.

MikeLeeds 08/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Jack00 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Olly
Matt Shepherd 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/08 Lead O/S
will6459 25/Jul/08 Lead β
with Andy Hext
Hidden 24/Jul/08 2nd
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Solo
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/08 2nd dog

Fell off, took the wrong line. Even so quite hard at the grade.

derico 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sadact
Mike W ?/Jun/08 Solo
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead O/S
kitkat78 29/May/08 Lead rpt
with SteveM
SteveM 29/May/08 2nd rpt
with Kat
alaan 29/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/08 2nd
Matthallinan 19/May/08 Lead
with Phil Parker
nigel pearson 11/May/08 Lead O/S

my first E1. bold top section

with toby
Hidden 21/Apr/08 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 19/Apr/08 Lead β
with Jens Verhagh
Matt Fry 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
IanJackson 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
Ed Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

nice little route. Feels the same stanard as FBD so don't understand that not getting E1.

Joe Dove 10/Feb/08 Lead
with kev
IanJackson 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Big Ian
Hidden 07/Feb/08 Lead dnf
BenJacobs 07/Feb/08 Lead dnf

fell off on the traverse move to the left

with Luke
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Graeme Hammond 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 25/Nov/07 2nd O/S

A bit pumpy- but really good moves- very exposed at the top- with a slight runout.

with Graeme Hammond
tom.e 06/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Solo
Mr Powly ?/Oct/07 Lead
tobydunford 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Misha ?/Sep/07 Lead dog
Dom Whillans 29/Aug/07 Lead
with a.crook
jamiev 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
Mr Sparkle 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lindsey Pearson
mattnuttall 11/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
b.hayley ?/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Kendrick
liamoloughlin ?/Jul/07 Lead
sce8 29/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Gemma Fisher And Dominic Sellers
Somerset swede basher 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Elliff and Gemma Fisher
Paul Tomo 10/Jun/07 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
tatz45 08/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Ian Hook
Joe Dove 02/Jun/07 2nd
with kev
bourney ?/Jun/07 -
OffshoreAndy 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Skell
Iggy_B 23/May/07 2nd rpt
with Adam M
felixthelion ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with dan
adam carless 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

The lower slab is a bit contrived and escapable, but the upper scoop is exposed but good fun.

with Noel
furry 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John LMC
dan gibson 24/Apr/07 Solo
with AJ
AJ007 24/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
Wil Treasure 21/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead
Joe Costello 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with James
Luke Brooks 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 13/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2007 Lead O/S

Made a mess of the top but got there.

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
TomHaigh ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Fraser
Fraser13 ??/2007 -
Skell ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Andy
Sidekick 10/Dec/06 Lead O/S
kitkat78 02/Dec/06 2nd
with Nick McK
Dan 85 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Jonny
EAYL 03/Nov/06 2nd
with Luketheape
Owen W-G 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Denison
JonBray 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
bobette 11/Sep/06 2nd dog
with mike
climbingrev 07/Jul/06 TR O/S

Excellent. Had a bit of an audience which encouraged me over the crux! will definately come back to lead this one day.

Andy Clarke 24/Jun/06 Lead

A bit of a seige, in that both Rob and I had a go before figuring out the crux. Ground up-ish, but without pulling the ropes. First route back on grit after returning from trekking and climbing in Nepal. Shock to the system!

with Tommo, Rob
Hidden 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/06 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Bux ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Jon
Hidden 25/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead
Rob Grant ?/Apr/06 Lead
with tim marsh
ukb & bmc shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
dan gibson ??/2006 -
willackers ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rob Napier
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Dec/05 TR
Alex Mason ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S

blitzed this easy e1 just boldish and a tricky rock up on your gear

with kieth poskitt
ukb & bmc shark 29/Oct/05 Solo rpt
Lev 22/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
Si dH 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S

This was my first E1 :) Good stuff.

with Andy Morris
Hidden 14/Jul/05 2nd
greg101 14/Jul/05 2nd
with Matt O'Connor
Hidden 27/Jun/05 Solo dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
andi_e 01/May/05 Lead O/S
with John Hunter
Rich Guest ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Led onsight worryingly. Foot slipped off a hold in a serious situation, belayer was horrified (european mind you), I was lucky

Hidden ?/May/05 Solo O/S
BruceW ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Julian
catt 17/Apr/05 2nd dog
with Toby
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Ramsden
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant ?/Nov/04 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 23/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Alistair Ross
Apharri ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
skygodley 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Gus 01/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Stig 25/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Budge 27/May/04 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/04 2nd
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
leon ?/May/04 Lead O/S

a hard but well protected crux followed by an easy plod to the top

Hidden 23/Apr/04 TR
Mark Riley ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Iggy_B ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Karl
jonnyboy ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Pythonist ??/2004 Lead O/S
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 04/Oct/03 Lead O/S
cem 22/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Hidden 30/May/03 Lead O/S
timreynolds 25/May/03 2nd O/S
with Chris Lodge, Sean Corbett
Mark A Humphries 07/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Mark Collins 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Eakins
Mark Stevenson 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Feb/03 2nd O/S
with Julian (C+C)
RussB ??/2003 2nd O/S

Alex's first E1.

with Alex H
Hidden 27/Sep/02 Lead
cpoad 20/Sep/02 TR O/S
with Clare F
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead
Budge 27/May/02 2nd dog
with Mike Oates
gonggashan ?/Mar/02 2nd
with Walter
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
Trobbo 23/Sep/00 2nd
with mike sissons
Hidden 18/Aug/00 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 10/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Denton
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nige ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Solo
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
CrashMat Rob 10/Jul/99 TR

self belaying

with Tom, Nicky, Glynn
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Ben Bransby ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 02/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 11/Jan/98 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Nov/97 2nd rpt
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/96 2nd
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 -
RossG123 ??/1996 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/95 TR

Had failed to lead it

with Bill G
Hidden 05/May/95 Lead
duncan 01/Apr/95 Lead rpt
The Reaper 12/Oct/94 TR O/S


Laramadness 17/Sep/94 2nd β
Hidden 09/Jul/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 28/Jun/94 Solo O/S

trip with Rob Jamil and muge

Hidden 11/Jun/94 Lead
ste_d 01/May/93 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Chris Reid ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Budge ?/Sep/92 2nd dog
with Dave Wharton
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
SR1970 ?/May/92 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/91 Lead
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
adi bryant 29/May/91 2nd
with Gavin
samt 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Rob Weston
Hidden ?/Jan/91 Solo
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with D Townsend
Hidden 08/Apr/90 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1990 -
John Marsland 03/Sep/89 TR
Dave Musgrove 08/Feb/89 -
with Frank Wilkinson, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/Feb/89 -
with Dad
Andy Say 19/Nov/88 Solo
goi.ashmore 29/Sep/87 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 TR

Started OK, but didn't fancy finish, so got TR

with Brian Hannon, Mick Moss
Hidden 23/May/87 Solo O/S
Mike Owen 13/Oct/86 Solo O/S


charlesmfrench 12/Oct/86 Solo O/S
Tom V 21/Jul/86 Lead
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 12/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ?/Jul/85 2nd
Sean Kelly ?/May/85 -
with Mike Connor
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with FMC
Neil McA 04/Sep/84 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/84 Solo
Nigel Bond 31/Jul/83 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden 04/Jun/83 Solo
Hidden 07/Jul/82 Solo
stp 12/Jun/82 Lead O/S

soloed on 16/2/85

Hammy 04/Oct/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Hidden 06/Sep/81 Solo
Andy Stephenson 29/Aug/81 Lead O/S
duncan ?/Apr/81 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/80 Solo
KRB 29/May/80 Solo rpt
Mark Kemball 01/Mar/80 Lead
with Ian Grace
Dave Musgrove 17/Sep/79 -
andy gittins ??/1979 -
Chris Terrey ??/1978 Lead
with Pete Hevezi, Mike O'Brien
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1978 -
with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg
Chris Ellis 19/Jul/77 2nd
with Kevin Bridges
Canyak ??/1973 -
rogerskews ??/1972 -
with CMC Members
mikej 21/Aug/68 TR
with Mike Harris
mikej 07/Dec/66 TR
with Keith Johnson
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High E2
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High HVS
Votes cast 103
High 5c
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High 5a
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Votes cast 90
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set