16m.

Rockfax Description
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - finishing up the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Perrin 1967

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars
UKB Shark 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me.
Boy 28 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alex hall 18 Jun Lead O/S
Wanderlust 28 May TR dnf Thought this would be suitably hard for us to work on TR. It was! The lunge up towards the horn after cutting loose/rolling round the corner just feels desperate. Rain stopped play.
Thought this would be suitably hard for us to work on TR. It was! The lunge up towards the horn after cutting loose/rolling round the corner just feels desperate. Rain stopped play.
r8ck_chick 28 May TR dnf ? Possible project
? Possible project
Nick1812P 15 May Lead O/S Really good route, never too hard but spooky nonetheless, steep section can be protected by small cams and a good offset, I left mine on the floor though.
with Nawras
Really good route, never too hard but spooky nonetheless, steep section can be protected by small cams and a good offset, I left mine on the floor though.
with Nawras
pipof747 18 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Great climb, found the RP's ok.
Great climb, found the RP's ok.
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 17 May, 2018 Lead
Kipper-Phil Smith 17 May, 2018 Lead One of the great gritstone routes climbing does not get better than this !!!!
One of the great gritstone routes climbing does not get better than this !!!!
Hannes B 28 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
CharlieMack 28 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
LBrown 23 Sep, 2017 Lead
with Will
with Will
mrteale 1 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Great route and the gear was miles better than I thought it would be, just a little fiddly to place. Found two bomber micro cams and a large brassy before the crux.
with Shannon
Great route and the gear was miles better than I thought it would be, just a little fiddly to place. Found two bomber micro cams and a large brassy before the crux.
with Shannon
Hidden 1 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Granitemuncher 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S thin gear, you can arrange 3x microcams below the crux. interesting moves
with Ollie Hoffman
thin gear, you can arrange 3x microcams below the crux. interesting moves
with Ollie Hoffman
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Katekeltie 30 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 2nd
climberchristy 16 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Committing route. Bold but really good climbing. Technically not that hard. Enjoyed it a lot. Seconded clean by Lynn going well today.
with LMS
Committing route. Bold but really good climbing. Technically not that hard. Enjoyed it a lot. Seconded clean by Lynn going well today.
with LMS
Ben Bransby 13 Jun, 2017 -
Hidden ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 20 Oct, 2016 2nd
James Oakes 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
D.Russell 22 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
patrickcd 9 May, 2016 2nd
with Ed
with Ed
Hidden 6 May, 2016 2nd
Graeme Hammond 14 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Ran out of steam the previous day, powered through tonight and with the extra confidence of bringing a big cam. Fantastic moves and gear better than expected (offsetts/pea nuts improve the wire placement)
with Becky E
Ran out of steam the previous day, powered through tonight and with the extra confidence of bringing a big cam. Fantastic moves and gear better than expected (offsetts/pea nuts improve the wire placement)
with Becky E
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
MischaHY 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Great fun. Certainly gear if you have tiny cams... I didn't. Super fun.
Great fun. Certainly gear if you have tiny cams... I didn't. Super fun.
dr_botnik 4 May, 2015 2nd dog Better gear than looked from the ground, small wires and cams. Pumped out on the nose, gutted as it was one pull then into balance. Good lead from Andy.
Better gear than looked from the ground, small wires and cams. Pumped out on the nose, gutted as it was one pull then into balance. Good lead from Andy.
Andy Peak 1 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S Not Bold with the rite gear.
Not Bold with the rite gear.
M_Robinson 27 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Great lead from Jim, amazing moves low down
Great lead from Jim, amazing moves low down
spidermonkey09 27 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Nice! Pleased with this after a recent spate of falling off E3's. Gear is nowhere near as bad as has been suggested but by no means well protected either. Small cams helpful.
Nice! Pleased with this after a recent spate of falling off E3's. Gear is nowhere near as bad as has been suggested but by no means well protected either. Small cams helpful.
Hidden 8 Mar, 2015 Lead dog
Louishmouis ??, 2015 Lead O/S
with Felix
with Felix
hamer89 13 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 9 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S on sams gear
with Sam hamer
on sams gear
with Sam hamer
markalmack 1 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S dodge.
with little tom
dodge.
with little tom
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with boxj
with boxj
Brown 24 Apr, 2014 Lead
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
dannyboy83 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Intimidating but ultimately relatively easy
Intimidating but ultimately relatively easy
dswansonlow 5 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
with Dan Barbour
with Dan Barbour
Jimbo C 5 Oct, 2013 2nd Steep! luckily for me the gear had already been stripped from the crux section by an unsuccessful second.
with dave
Steep! luckily for me the gear had already been stripped from the crux section by an unsuccessful second.
with dave
Gudge 20 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Bark is much worse than it's bite! Holds are all there and quite positive - soft for 5c. One to lead next time.
Bark is much worse than it's bite! Holds are all there and quite positive - soft for 5c. One to lead next time.
Michael Allday 10 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
phil64 18 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S awesome
with tim neill
awesome
with tim neill
Harry Chaplin ?Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ?Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
redjerry 11 Aug, 2012 TR O/S
Hidden 14 Jan, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden 14 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 25 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2011 2nd dog
Milnes 21 Mar, 2011 2nd dog
jfane ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 -
Hidden 20 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 7 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S I'd be very wary of Franco's comments (naughty)... There's lots of worthwhile gear, particularly and crucially before the main difficulties, but also post crux. (beta on request ;) Very nice middle section.. Committing as hell, but felt brill!
I'd be very wary of Franco's comments (naughty)... There's lots of worthwhile gear, particularly and crucially before the main difficulties, but also post crux. (beta on request ;) Very nice middle section.. Committing as hell, but felt brill!
Hidden 7 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hannes B 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Emmsi
with Emmsi
Hidden 23 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2010 2nd
Rachel Slater 11 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
Franco Cookson 11 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Good, straight forward moves, poor gear. Most of the route is effectively a solo. Almost not worth bothering with a rope.
Good, straight forward moves, poor gear. Most of the route is effectively a solo. Almost not worth bothering with a rope.
Andrew Barker ??, 2010 Lead O/S A brilliant route. Year a guess.
A brilliant route. Year a guess.
natalietanzer 1 Oct, 2009 2nd
Ram MkiV 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S wow, great climbing. that nose is a great feature and has lovely holds.
with Al
wow, great climbing. that nose is a great feature and has lovely holds.
with Al
Alex Mason 4 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Psyched to have done this! great route, one of my favourites on grit. was all dry despite recent rain, gear adequate.
with mick radford
Psyched to have done this! great route, one of my favourites on grit. was all dry despite recent rain, gear adequate.
with mick radford
richgac 13 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Good route that had intimidated me on previous visits.
with Gaz
Good route that had intimidated me on previous visits.
with Gaz
Hidden 6 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
The old James turnbull 1 May, 2008 Lead
with aiden
with aiden
TomHaigh 1 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 4 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with martina
with martina
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Gus 20 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
UKB Shark 7 Nov, 2004 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
Mark Stevenson 29 Mar, 2003 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12 May, 2001 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
dominic lee 17 Oct, 1997 Solo O/S
with Pete O'Donnovan
with Pete O'Donnovan
Roget 13 Oct, 1996 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
uphillnow ??, 1996 2nd Seconded a number of times
with john stanger
Seconded a number of times
with john stanger
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Neil McA 24 May, 1990 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 18 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
David Slater ?Sep, 1986 Lead
with Leicester Uni MC
with Leicester Uni MC
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 12 May, 1982 Lead
duncan ?Oct, 1980 Lead O/S
Canyak ??, 1973 -
36 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set