Rockfax Description
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - finishing up the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Perrin 1967

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hannes B 28/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with Charlie
CharlieMack 28/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Hannes
LBrown 23/Sep/17 Lead
with Will
mrteale 01/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Great route and the gear was miles better than I thought it would be, just a little fiddly to place. Found two bomber micro cams and a large brassy before the crux.

with Shannon
Hidden 01/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Granitemuncher 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

thin gear, you can arrange 3x microcams below the crux. interesting moves

with Ollie Hoffman
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Katekeltie 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Fatboy
LMS 16/Jul/17 2nd

So hard!! typical brave lead from christy... wouldn't want to fall on it... pleased to get it done at all!!

climberchristy 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Committing route. Bold but really good climbing. Technically not that hard. Enjoyed it a lot. Seconded clean by Lynn going well today.

with LMS
Ben Bransby 13/Jun/17 -
Hidden 02/Apr/17 2nd β
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/16 2nd
James Oakes 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Harry Morrish
D.Russell 22/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
patrickcd 09/May/16 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 06/May/16 2nd
Graeme Hammond 14/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Ran out of steam the previous day, powered through tonight and with the extra confidence of bringing a big cam. Fantastic moves and gear better than expected (offsetts/pea nuts improve the wire placement)

with Becky E
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
MischaHY 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great fun. Certainly gear if you have tiny cams... I didn't. Super fun.

dr_botnik 04/May/15 2nd dog

Better gear than looked from the ground, small wires and cams. Pumped out on the nose, gutted as it was one pull then into balance. Good lead from Andy.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Not Bold with the rite gear.

M_Robinson 27/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Great lead from Jim, amazing moves low down

spidermonkey09 27/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Nice! Pleased with this after a recent spate of falling off E3's. Gear is nowhere near as bad as has been suggested but by no means well protected either. Small cams helpful.

Hidden 08/Mar/15 Lead dog
Louishmouis ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Felix
Alistair Corbett 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

on sams gear

with Sam hamer
markalmack 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S


with little tom
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Jon Box
Brown 24/Apr/14 Lead
with James T
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Intimidating but ultimately relatively easy

with Dougie
dswansonlow 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Barbour
Jimbo C 05/Oct/13 2nd

Steep! luckily for me the gear had already been stripped from the crux section by an unsuccessful second.

with dave
Gudge 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Bark is much worse than it's bite! Holds are all there and quite positive - soft for 5c. One to lead next time.

Michael Allday 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
phil64 18/Oct/12 Lead O/S


with tim neill
Harry Chaplin ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
redjerry 11/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/11 2nd dog
Milnes 21/Mar/11 2nd dog
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S

I'd be very wary of Franco's comments (naughty)... There's lots of worthwhile gear, particularly and crucially before the main difficulties, but also post crux. (beta on request ;) Very nice middle section.. Committing as hell, but felt brill!

Hidden 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Emmsi
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd
Rachel Slater 11/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Franco Cookson 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Good, straight forward moves, poor gear. Most of the route is effectively a solo. Almost not worth bothering with a rope.

Andrew Barker ??/2010 Lead O/S

A brilliant route. Year a guess.

natalietanzer 01/Oct/09 2nd
Ram MkiV 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

wow, great climbing. that nose is a great feature and has lovely holds.

with Al
Alex Mason 04/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Psyched to have done this! great route, one of my favourites on grit. was all dry despite recent rain, gear adequate.

with mick radford
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
The old James turnbull 01/May/08 Lead
with aiden
TomHaigh 01/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Gus 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 07/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Mark Stevenson 29/Mar/03 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
dominic lee 17/Oct/97 Solo O/S
with Pete O'Donnovan
Roget 13/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with jon
uphillnow ??/1996 2nd

Seconded a number of times

with john stanger
Hidden ?/Jun/94 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Mike Owen 18/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with FMC
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/May/82 Lead
duncan ?/Oct/80 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/1973 -
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