UKC

400m.

Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 - 5 hours. A nice line with some fun climbing when conditions are good. Follow the Escarra Gully for 20m and then branch off right, hugging the rock buttress.
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon. For Escarra Gully and Charlet-Bettembourg Gully keep to the right of the rock ridge on the final section of the approach.
1) Climb a narrow gully (hopefully ice but usually mixed) for one pitch to where it widens.
2) Follow the wide icy wall above for two pitches (70 degrees initially, kicking up to 80 degrees later on).
3) A final section of steep ice leads to easier-angled ground. Follow this as the gully bends round to the left.
4) Continue up 45 degree mixed terrain to a col just below the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Obvious wide ice filled gully with narrow sometimes dry entrance near to the West Ridge (normal descent route). Crux pitches of 80° ice.

G Bettembourg and J Charlet (Winter J Charlet and D Pugnat 1 March 1980) 15/Jun/1972

Ticklists: Chamonix Winter Ideas.


ClimberDateStyle
James W 18/Aug/14 2nd
with Mark Thomas
Roberttaylor 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

With JH. Spindrift, hotaches, some rotten ice. Went right after the snowfields, having downclimbed the upper section on a previous occasion. 80 degree crux short lived with long pitches of 70 degrees.

JHolland 17/Aug/14 -
QuentinSu ?/Dec/13 AltLd β
Stuart Johnston 09/Jun/12 -

The 80 degree section is only about 5m long and the rest is felt easy angled. We climbed the Migot Spur first and then descended the normal route to the foot of the gully. You can exit to the right on to the normal route after 6 or so pitches which avoids the slog up the snow slopes to the summit.

with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
masa-alpin 16/Nov/11 AltLd dog

Before the crux 2 pitches, I took my worst alpine fall for 15 metres due to carelessness... It was only stopped as the rope somehow caught the rock corner, otherwise it would have been longer by another few metres. Miraculously I was almost unscathed apart from a bit of bruises, while Thibault guessed it would be a helicopter job. I lost an axe as well, as the lanyard clipped to it self-undid. I completed the pitch and we carried on to the next 2 crux pitches - Thibault lead the first one, and I did the second, with the second climbing with only 1 axe. Neither of us fell and we made it to the top (using the standard route after the crux sections).

with Thibault
Somerset swede basher 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks and George Taylor
Daniel Wicks 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Dom and George
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd
mike.moss ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
David Horwood 14/Sep/05 -
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd
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