UKC

Rockfax Description
II, 195m. Considered by many to be the best route of the Brévent. The climbing is enjoyable throughout, the bolting is excellent and the final pitch would be a classic at any crag.
1) 6a, 45m. Gear up on a terrace with two bolts. Start by stepping left and climbing a steep pillar (5b) and then up a steep slab, past one 6a move which can be missed out by moving left.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb the broken blocks and traverse up rightwards to a belay on a terrace.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up from the belay and follow the ramp-line out rightwards to a small belay beneath a corner.
4) 6a, 40m. Climb the corner for 5m, then climb slabs to reach a steep corner-crack. This is physical and/or technical depending on your skill level and leads to a spacious belay on a large ledge.
5) 2a, 20m. A linking pitch across the ledge leftwards - make a couple of grassy moves then go right to the foot of the corner.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner, past a tricky move about halfway up, to a belay just below the viewing platform. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A corner and crack line under the summit of the Brevent. Equipped.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , TM Alps , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kileyb11 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Loved this route. Very well bolted - however, if this is your limit you could bring a few bigger cams for the 6a crack to feel a bit better. Crack gloves would have been handy.
βeta?
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βeta: Loved this route. Very well bolted - however, if this is your limit you could bring a few bigger cams for the 6a crack to feel a bit better. Crack gloves would have been handy.
Leahcleire 4 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest 6a thus far.
βeta?
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βeta: The hardest 6a thus far.
et19 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo rather inaccurate surprise surprise
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax topo rather inaccurate surprise surprise
bonkersbilly123 11 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A very busy route but for good reason. Aim to be the first on the route to avoid severe traffic!
βeta?
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βeta: A very busy route but for good reason. Aim to be the first on the route to avoid severe traffic!
LP 11 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: One of those special climbing days. No queues, one other party on the route, perfect weather . Apprehensive before I set off but as soon as the climbing started everything flowed - lovely climbing in great positions- obviously it couldn’t all go totally fine so i decided to back clip moving through the tricky bit on the last pitch just as a very kind chap popped over the top to take photos . Couldn’t down-climb so Ended up doing some tenuous stretchy moves to unclip, whilst holding the quick draw with my foot so I could reclip. It’s also all on video which is nice. I led 1,3, (5) and 6. I would like to come back and lead the crux which felt stiff for 6a but maybe it was the backpack …
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of those special climbing days. No queues, one other party on the route, perfect weather . Apprehensive before I set off but as soon as the climbing started everything flowed - lovely climbing in great positions- obviously it couldn’t all go totally fine so i decided to back clip moving through the tricky bit on the last pitch just as a very kind chap popped over the top to take photos . Couldn’t down-climb so Ended up doing some tenuous stretchy moves to unclip, whilst holding the quick draw with my foot so I could reclip. It’s also all on video which is nice. I led 1,3, (5) and 6. I would like to come back and lead the crux which felt stiff for 6a but maybe it was the backpack …
Gwinn512 23 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't bother with a trad rack. Maybe take a couple nuts at most.
Show beta
βeta: Don't bother with a trad rack. Maybe take a couple nuts at most.
K Mckay 1 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think.
βeta?
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βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think.
Webster 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail!
Show beta
βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail!
GHawksworth 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 61
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cocher Cochon

Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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