24m.

Rockfax Description
The steep arete is technical as far as a band of crusty rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the headwall. Holds were chipped off after the first ascent but it is still climbable at the same grade. Some ancient bolts provide much-needed protection. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 1984

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Consumed, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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UserDateNotes
TomPR 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove.
βeta?
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βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove.
Graham Hoey 12 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andy Peak 1 11 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt Broke the first crimp/foothold on the slab still claimable at the same grade!? Lead with gear in place! Second e6 climbed the bottom badley giving the route every opportunity to throw me off but it didn't! The crux whent really well once I waited my foot properley. One of the best climbing experiences I've ever had, lessons learnt, now to apply,
Broke the first crimp/foothold on the slab still claimable at the same grade!? Lead with gear in place! Second e6 climbed the bottom badley giving the route every opportunity to throw me off but it didn't! The crux whent really well once I waited my foot properley. One of the best climbing experiences I've ever had, lessons learnt, now to apply,
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11 Feb, 2016 Lead RP Led placing gear on lead, apart from a cheeky pre-placed sling which was no longer conveniently placeable en route as a crimp was broken. Great route and great to do it with the first ascensionist.
Led placing gear on lead, apart from a cheeky pre-placed sling which was no longer conveniently placeable en route as a crimp was broken. Great route and great to do it with the first ascensionist.
Andy Peak 1 19 Nov, 2015 TR All the moves:-)
All the moves:-)
The old James turnbull 2 Nov, 2015 Lead RP Well when you have 2 hours to kill when the misses is at the garden centre what else is there to do? Awesome route, just before the mega mist consumed it. Cheers for the pysche Andy.
Well when you have 2 hours to kill when the misses is at the garden centre what else is there to do? Awesome route, just before the mega mist consumed it. Cheers for the pysche Andy.
Brown 14 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Fabrizio
with Fabrizio
nathanlee 25 Oct, 2014 Lead β Had plenty of beta from dad and will. Saved this for quite a while so chuffed for it to feel solid. Perfect connies!
with Will Pettet-Smith, dominic lee
Had plenty of beta from dad and will. Saved this for quite a while so chuffed for it to feel solid. Perfect connies!
with Will Pettet-Smith, dominic lee
Apharri 10 Apr, 2013 Lead RP One top rope, no pads
with Jim Gayler
One top rope, no pads
with Jim Gayler
dominic lee 14 Oct, 2012 Lead β Last of the great Millstone aretes. Great climbing with just enough gear.
Last of the great Millstone aretes. Great climbing with just enough gear.
Hidden 17 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S Unchalked. Excellent climbing despite the chipping!
with Eric Hildrew
Unchalked. Excellent climbing despite the chipping!
with Eric Hildrew
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
with Joe le Sage
with Joe le Sage
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High E6
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High E5
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Votes cast 6
High 6c
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Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a
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Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
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Not Set