Rockfax Description
Climb cracks right of the Cioch, trending left to reach the ledge and a belay. Finish up the deep groove at the back of the ledge or, better and more worthy of the star, up the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1956

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Merlin 15/Oct 2nd O/S
isandyharper 24/Sep Lead O/S
with Tony Hextall
charlie broe 24/Sep Lead O/S
Slarti B 23/Sep Lead rpt

First pitch only

with Annie K
Hidden 22/Aug 2nd
PaulFidler 22/Aug 2nd O/S
with John Pemblington
Hidden 25/Jul Lead
tom bre 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Paul
Elizabeth Allen 12/Jul Lead O/S
with Luke
Luke90 12/Jul 2nd O/S
with Liz
buxtoncoffeelover 01/Jul Lead

Arete finish - nice positions. Typically - Millstone, loose layers/blocks near the top

Hidden 01/Jul 2nd
mrs milf 22/Jun Lead rpt
with John Cook
KianPotter 15/Jun Solo O/S
with Tom Somerville
Dimart 07/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tony
Simas87 03/Jun AltLd
with Chloë Brown
AbigailCranfield 03/Jun Lead O/S
r8ck_chick 06/May 2nd
roxyred 29/Apr 2nd O/S
LukeWawrzyniak 22/Apr Lead O/S
hazeysunshine 09/Apr 2nd
with Gill R
Amy121 08/Apr Lead
quickdrawmcraw 08/Apr 2nd
with mike foxall, amy
slab_happy 05/Feb Lead O/S

Corner finish.

with Matt
quickdrawmcraw 05/Feb 2nd
EstherHyde 05/Feb Lead O/S
alexjf 01/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Rosa
FrancisI 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Kyle
mrs milf 14/Sep/16 Lead
with Dominic close
paulharmer 05/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Sam Glas
mrs milf 18/Aug/16 Lead
with John Cook
wjlacey 18/Aug/16 AltLd

jp lead 1st bit me second

Damo Grimley 30/Jun/16 2nd
AndyRogers 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S

VS finish on arête, excellent.

with Damo
zoe.louise94 07/Jun/16 Lead
dbradbeer 30/May/16 2nd O/S
zzee83 30/May/16 Lead
dbradbeer 30/May/16 2nd rpt
Dogbury 30/May/16 2nd rpt

Nice little route.

james5810 30/May/16 Lead
Hidden 20/May/16 Lead O/S
rachelanneggleshaw 16/May/16 2nd
Browny 21/Apr/16 2nd O/S
garyb1442 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Tony Myers 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/16 Lead O/S
ALR09 01/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/16 2nd
Txitxar ??/2016 Lead
PanzerHanzler 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Paul Bartrum
philmitch 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Capricorn One 01/Sep/15 Lead

Fun in the wet.

with Nina
Hidden 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
mrs milf 30/Aug/15 2nd
with John Cook
mrs milf 30/Aug/15 2nd
with John Cook
mrs milf 23/Aug/15 TR
banx22 03/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Hannah Wiltshire, Neil Wiltshire
neilwiltshire 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jon Banks, Hannah Merrill
JordanRickard 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Lukem6 15/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Manc88 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S
justtoots 24/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mike8331 04/Jun/15 Lead
Jack Whiteley 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
TimG 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Jack
Matt Reed 25/May/15 2nd
sdixon 23/May/15 Lead
JHiley 23/May/15 2nd

Arete finish.

with Sarah
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead
mapperley samurai 17/May/15 2nd
Horton 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Finished straight up the arete instead of the easier grove making a straighter and more exposed finsih.

with Shane
Mikethe boar 14/Apr/15 -
with Rick Mattheson
mrs milf ??/2015 Lead

second ever lead

DavidH89 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Erynsmum 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Soames
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead
rockmaverick ?/Oct/14 2nd
with Pete Verdier
Giorgiogents 24/Sep/14 -
withey1992 23/Sep/14 Lead
ashtond6 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
alp79 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

P2 after jonny led supradirect

Marmoset 02/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Slarti B 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Rebeca's second lead. Nice

with Ann D, Rebecca
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
royle883 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
KamilJ 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Endrju, Dan
Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd
AlexFletcher 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
sam26051 14/Jun/14 Lead
zzee83 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Arron Fisk, Andy Hind
Dogbury 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 Solo O/S
bob_cbr 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
cragsman9000 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Finished up the arete on Cioch Corner as this seemed more natural and interesting.

with Neil
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Ly-Cilph 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Finished up Cioch corner by mistake...

with Korin K
fillerbunny 16/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Got flustered by a stuck bit of gear near the top and had to be lowered down. Sigh.

with Patrick
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
benny_m 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with James
OliverRoss 12/Apr/14 2nd β
with Adam Ptretlak
ebf 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Soloed pretty much to the ledge whilst Will sorted out the belay. Top corner is a disappointment after the bottom section which is lovely.

dazwan 30/Mar/14 2nd
Wevcore 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Jen Gilbert, James
JB-Rock 29/Mar/14 2nd
TomYates 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
petewebb 09/Mar/14 Lead
AdamPrzeslak 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Brown ??/2014 Solo
with Solo
Hidden ??/2014 -
SJohnson 01/Dec/13 TR
LukeRobinson 01/Dec/13 TR
marr.simon 01/Dec/13 TR

Bored instructing again so topped out in boots!

jordangolding 01/Dec/13 TR
hirving 01/Dec/13 TR O/S


with Gilsey
Hidden 01/Dec/13 TR
Hidden 01/Dec/13 TR β
quinn sorabjee 01/Dec/13 TR O/S
deanhorsburgh 01/Dec/13 TR
lewiswilson 01/Dec/13 TR
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead
taff raymond 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ricky6386 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 21/Sep/13 Lead
Climbster 21/Sep/13 2nd β
with Julia
Palindrome 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead
mattvitel 25/Aug/13 2nd
with steve fox
rockman 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
timcedwards 13/Aug/13 2nd
ChrisHarris1981 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Jase
cpoad 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Clare F, John S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
riff156 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jo Smith
quickdrawmcraw 22/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/13 2nd
EDB4YLI55 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Mike Turner 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Bob Butcher
akhutton88 01/Jun/13 Lead
with alex h
john_ni 18/May/13 Lead O/S

finished up top part Cioch Corner - on the arete

john max 18/May/13 2nd
yorkshiresherpa 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches to make it abit more adventurous

with Tommaso D'Odorico
tom.dodo 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Multi-pitched to add a bit of an adventure feel to it.

with John
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
GStone 14/Apr/13 2nd O/S
fechtn 10/Apr/13 Lead
with HPC
charvey 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
mapperley samurai 10/Nov/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
james.slater 20/Oct/12 Solo O/S

Nice start, rubbish finish

Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
BenjyM 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Liam
BenjyM 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Liam
mapperley samurai 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Slarti B 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Dominique
goddamm7 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with tim green
Clee 20/Aug/12 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rich_greeny 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Alastair Dixon
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Pero 28/Jul/12 Lead
Morwood 17/Jul/12 2nd
gillywillyhoo 17/Jul/12 Lead
jwa 26/May/12 Lead
with Rob Smith
Hidden 13/May/12 -
Mhairi G 13/May/12 2nd
with Patrick
Pat-H 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with tamsin, don, mhairi
JezzaCat ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Richard
Keendan 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Vernon
Graeme Hammond 28/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
the power 17/Mar/12 2nd


Ardo 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
stefie c 14/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead β
JulesV 11/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Matt Harmon ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
Robbiobaby 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Climbed traverse to set up top rope for Dextricity

RossT 15/Jan/12 Lead
with Chris
Chris wilson 15/Jan/12 2nd
with Ross
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
Matt Bill Platypus 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Nicholas Livesey 29/Aug/11 Lead

Not bad...steep, loose top out!

with Lucie Sedlarova
Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
TRFrost 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with T. Bullock, L. Nedevska
Deezel65 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead
Ben Taggart-Ryan 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
rockaddict ?/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jake Young 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
peter myers ??/2011 2nd
with Alex May
MikeDowsett ??/2011 Lead
with Alan Mills, Tigger
Hidden 14/Oct/10 2nd
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 14/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Bottom half great, top half not so good

with Claire PCC
shkinitrep 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S
JLS 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Jacqui
howlingbaboon 05/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Scott
Scott Anderson 05/Oct/10 2nd
mattgrange 02/Oct/10 2nd
Brannock 16/Sep/10 Solo O/S
treg 07/Aug/10 2nd

Started up Close Shave then switched to the arete finish of Cioch Corner. A good combo.

with Ben, Guy Atkinson
Guy Atkinson 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Finished up the arete instead of in the corner

with Matt Tregellas, Ben Silvestre
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
pizza 23/Jul/10 2nd
Duncan Beard 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Climbed the start of this followed by end of Cioch Corner. Lovely exposed moves out onto the arete and back into the crack. Good pro.

cloneragan 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
glennofsheff 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch ,decent climbing , chris lead , 2nd pitch, not so good ,grubby loose but easier climbing better to take arete as for cioch corner. new route suggestion . 1st pitch close shave 2nd pitch cioch corner to make solid route which maintains interest all the way

Jonathan Hall 30/Jun/10 2nd
newvena 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with ben
ajc 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Left Back 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tim (Chubby)
Andrew Bangs 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Guidebook shows the start as a walk up the ramp, so I ignored that and did a direct start to get a few more moves in.

with Simon
welshie 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
leebates 05/Jun/10 Lead
adstapleton 05/Jun/10 2nd
gcandlin 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
JRigby ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Different Steve 10/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
Hidden 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/10 2nd
Brannock 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/10 AltLd β
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Webster 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

bottom section good, top is shit.

nadeem 13/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
chumleywarner 31/Oct/09 TR O/S

second time up 1st pitch, a great warm up lovely climb

valentinesbabe 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S

easy warm up

with Charley Fell, Peter Ziak, Steven Fletcher
charley 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

A nice warm up route. Didn't go up the final green corner, decided to abb off the tree instead to save walking back down...

with Steve Fletcher, Ange, Peter
Tithe Technique 21/Oct/09 2nd
chumleywarner 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S

one did first pitch and abbed off to do another climb, very nice climb though even in the wet

staceyjg 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
aurore 19/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Alan
arctic_jen 11/Jul/09 2nd
with Dan
dpmUK 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jen
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
vvanhinsbergh 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
adamlives 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with vvanhinsbergh
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hetty 24/May/09 -
bridget143 26/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Lewis Andrew 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
jsrous ??/2009 -
summo ??/2009 -
matsavage 08/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/08 2nd
peteJ23 26/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with John Whyte
nicki_2712 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Rob Horton
MagnusL 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Went up the awesomely exposed arete instead of up the minging chimney.

with Pete and Joe
Little AndyH 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
paulstrutt01 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Slarti B 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Nice straightforward climb. I led last little bit onto top. "Try not to belay to the fence posts", urrghh... what else is there??

with Chris G
mikej 16/Sep/08 Lead
with Rick Naylor
SteveM 13/Sep/08 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with SteveM
Hidden ?/Sep/08 2nd
Seraph 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S

First Trad Lead

with Ben Cunnington
justjump 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with Nick Shaw
trigger118 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Adderbury Climber 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 14/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Split into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag

with Jaime
Mike Hall 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Ken T
Joe Costello 13/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
PanzerHanzler 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
tom 21/May/08 Lead
Hidden 11/May/08 2nd
Phil1967 06/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dan
Sarahshort246 01/May/08 Lead
yan ?/May/08 2nd
Martin Haworth 28/Apr/08 Solo O/S
Karlos 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Mac, Tom
AnneMarie 19/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Watch for rope drag

with James Randerson
stuckonarock 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Matthew
tontopink 05/Mar/08 Lead
Stu Smith 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Oli
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
mogatron 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with tom
Hidden 17/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/07 2nd
dannyboy83 08/Jul/07 Solo O/S
ill_bill 17/Jun/07 Lead
spbond 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bobby K
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
roberto18 30/May/07 Lead
with Helen Kennedy
phill bentham 21/May/07 Lead O/S
coffeepot 05/May/07 Lead

Climbed top from Mayday, took lead from Paul

with jelaby
leonjones 14/Apr/07 Lead
with Phil Barley
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd
Mark_RMC 31/Mar/07 Lead

A somewhat uninspiring severe to start the day. All very routine

with Claire Smart
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Epic Ebdon 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Nick Lambert
kevinknights 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Matt "Bill" Jones, Jester
Mark Collins 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 26/Aug/06 2nd β
with Mark Collins
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Solo O/S
chrisclimber_1986 19/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with William Kelsall
TobyA 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S

The final arete (called very confusingly a "corner" in On Peak Rock and the Paul Nunn guide) is excellent and has a relatively tricky move for the grade.

Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Jenny Clarke 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead O/S
just wanna climb 10/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Liz in Sheffield
Hidden 08/Jan/06 2nd
maybe_si ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
mr bounce ??/2006 -
Simon Caldwell 11/Dec/05 2nd O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 24/Jul/05 2nd
Dominion ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

This was down as Severe in my guide book when I did it, and was at that point my first Severe Onsight lead and only 2nd lead at Severe

with Allie Griffiths
Sam and will 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + Ben Bennett
SecretSquirrel ?/May/05 Lead O/S

My first trad lead :0)

with Philip
mel holmes ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Nancy Maitland
Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Dave Mason ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Jon Wickham 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
loose85 13/Jul/04 Lead rpt
Chris Ellis 25/Apr/04 Lead
with Helen Odwell
loose85 15/Apr/04 Lead O/S
garethb ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Snowie 23/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/03 Lead
Hidden 04/May/03 2nd
Ander 12/Mar/03 Lead
with Kev
Sankey 01/Sep/02 Lead
with Andy E
GrahamHP ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 21/Jul/01 Lead
with Sandra and M. Gill
Sam and will 05/Jun/01 2nd
with Anthony Bennett
loonyclimber ?/May/01 Lead
DerwentDiluted 06/Aug/00 Lead
with Laurie Smith
paul birch 14/May/00 -
rlrs ??/2000 2nd
with DJ
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/99 Lead
DafSWMC ?/May/99 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/98 Solo
babymoac 13/Oct/97 -
with Manda, James Crampton
nickdonohue 16/Mar/97 Lead

lesson learned: don't climb when hung over!

with Veronica Bailey
Adrian Daniels 08/Mar/97 2nd
with John Parrott
Hidden 20/Apr/96 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S

Sometime in the 90's

r0b 11/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 09/May/95 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 02/Apr/95 Solo

Finished up arete on right, 4b, 8/10/00 + Dan Tovey. Led jam crack R of start, 4b, 22/4/01 + Dan Tovey.

Phil West ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S
with Steve Wild
astrecks ?/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Rod
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
andy tetsill ?/Aug/91 Solo
adi bryant 23/Mar/91 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/86 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1986 Lead O/S
tapley 07/Jul/85 Lead
John Marsland 10/Jun/84 Solo
Hidden 23/May/84 Lead
Hidden 05/May/84 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
Nigel Bond 13/Nov/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
andy tetsill ?/Jul/83 Solo
malc 24/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with RL
Dave Musgrove 03/Oct/82 Lead
with David
Mark Kemball 22/Feb/82 Solo
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
beaumap ?/Apr/81 Lead
with Bernie Green
Hammy 02/Nov/80 Solo
with Rob Lawson
Rob Davies ?/Dec/79 Solo
duncan ?/May/79 Solo
Nigel Bond 19/Apr/78 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Hidden ??/1978 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/77 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/77 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/76 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1973 -
rogerskews ??/1972 -
with Neil Hawkesworth
mikej 05/Jul/66 Solo
with Mike Priest, Frank Chester
13 users have this on their wishlist
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 43
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set