Rockfax Description
A well-named trip traversing above the exposed lip of the Keyhole Cave. It is most easily reached via Brixton Road and protection is only adequate; watch for friable holds. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy early 1960s

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs.

melv 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Fi
quickdrawmcraw 08/Jul AltLd
with Amy121
Amy121 08/Jul Lead
OllyD ?/Jun Lead
fechtn 30/Apr Lead O/S
dr_botnik 19/Apr AltLd O/S
with ken
slab_happy 09/Apr Lead O/S

In a freezing gale, which added to the experience.

with Ellie
jvarmstrong 08/Apr 2nd
with Chris
Chris Manasseh 08/Apr Lead
with John Armstrong
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Graeme Hammond 16/Jul/15 2nd rpt
max_chan 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
elfin girl 04/Jul/15 2nd
with John Cook
mapperley samurai 04/Jul/15 2nd
superturbo 18/Jun/15 Lead
heywoodj 13/May/15 Lead O/S

"but i dont want to go round there, this ledge is so lovely!"

samkat 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with ian, Bex
quickdrawmcraw 11/Apr/15 Lead
with steve B
mapperley samurai 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Fun stepping round the corner.

mrs milf ??/2015 AltLd

Led to ledge then Cookie did top bit

amccann 04/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Ardo 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with milky
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Davidchatterton 07/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with heyhoot
Hidden 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ashtond6 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
adi bryant 02/Sep/13 2nd
with Chris, Lee
alicelarkin 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
jon22 29/Jun/13 2nd
with Peter morgan
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd
disturbed_one51 01/Sep/12 2nd
Binder 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
khalidq 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Gambit 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Simul climbed on a 25m rope. That was interesting!

with Barney
Nigel Bond 03/Aug/12 Lead
with Bern Hardman
SteveJCox ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Cox
Deezel65 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Bold bold traverse on little gear!!

Hidden 16/May/12 Lead
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Mike Lee 16/Apr/12 Lead

Great climb - 2nd'd first pitch, then superb exposed 2nd pitch stepping around the arĂȘte and above the Keyhole! Did this last in 2006

with Nicola
Graeme Hammond 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

led as one pitch, exposed airy finish.

mary 23/Oct/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
Pilch 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Jo, Graham
Cake 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 08/Sep/11 2nd
WillDoyle 20/Aug/11 2nd
tonanf ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd O/S
AndyMcCoy 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Fred
Fred_Richard 10/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
bigphil 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 30/Jun/10 2nd
JRigby ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
donkster 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with ben
cooper leek 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Great climb especially for donk climbing in the dark.

with donk
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Possibly the worst climb ever ?? falling rocks beware. Very last exposed section was good

with Phil (bald)
jubolo 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with mark
Jules Lane 30/May/09 2nd
with Dan
highrepute 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
marccb6 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S


with Will
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
RM199 ??/2009 -
andyebbens 16/Nov/08 2nd
with Steve E
Sankey 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Great exposure when first peeking onto the finish

Phil Jennings 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Locka, Anna Jennings, Kieran Smith
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
gb83 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

superb exposure-potential for great photos!

with I.Killey
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd
duzinga 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

pete did the 2nd pitch. good but felt very short.

with Pete
Hidden 22/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 -
sasmojo ?/May/07 Lead
with Nikki
sasmojo ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Nicely exposed and exciting climbing on the traverse above the Keyhole.

with Ananay, Nikki
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Mike Lee 10/Aug/06 Lead

Great climb - easy first pitch, then superb exposed 2nd pitch stepping around the arete and above the Keyhole!

with Jim
Ben1983 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2006 -
Jay1403 18/Sep/05 2nd

Excellent route, Although the second pitch around the arete provides a gasp as you step around and can't help looking down.

with James Frogatt
Hidden 14/Aug/05 Lead
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Becca, Al D.
Hidden ??/2005 -
Phil West 05/Sep/04 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd, airy pitch.

with Kiwi Jon
mikej 13/Jul/04 Lead
with Rick Naylor
DerwentDiluted 06/Aug/03 Lead
with Laurie Smith
chrishedgehog 21/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Laramadness 20/Mar/03 2nd β
with ST
Howard J 25/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Christine Farmer
Paul-Michael 20/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Nurse
Hidden ??/2002 -
Mutl3y ??/2002 2nd

First ever proper climb since kids club

with Fletch
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/01 Lead O/S
adam carless ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/00 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
simonharpham ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Banjo
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/99 2nd O/S
Different Steve ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 27/May/97 AltLd

Led corner

with Alex Doherty
Scott McRae 18/May/97 2nd O/S

Lovely exposure

with Steve Lucas
Roget 03/Aug/96 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/95 Lead O/S
iskra2000 09/Oct/94 2nd
with Paul Woodcock
Budge ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Gill, Jan, Petra
Chris Ellis 24/Jul/93 Lead
with Ashley Collins
Rog Wilko ?/May/93 2nd

We thought this was worthy of 4b.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 10/May/92 2nd
charlesmfrench ??/1992 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
andy tetsill ?/Aug/91 Solo
Martin Bennett 30/Jun/91 -
with Tim
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 30/Mar/91 2nd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 05/May/90 Lead O/S
SimonN ?/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
thinair48 ??/1990 -
babymoac 08/Aug/87 Lead
with Chris B
freeheel47 ??/1987 -
Hidden 28/Jun/86 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1986 -
Hidden 26/Aug/85 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Apr/85 Lead
GordonHart ??/1985 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Pete Pozman 09/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Jeremy
Tom V ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 09/Oct/83 Lead
with Chris Calow
andy tetsill ?/Sep/83 Lead
with Joy
sadams 29/Aug/83 Lead
with Collin Lennox
andy tetsill ?/Jul/83 Lead
with Joy
Martin Haworth ??/1983 Solo O/S
mark-abz 25/Mar/82 Lead
with Dave K
Mark Kemball 07/Feb/82 2nd
with Sian Hughes
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
johnny20whales 15/Jun/81 2nd
John Marsland ?/May/81 2nd
with Ian Stopforth
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo O/S
duncan ?/May/79 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Nov/78 2nd
with Brian - Cambridge
Hidden 27/Jun/77 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/77 2nd
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1976 -
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead
Hidden ??/1967 Lead
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