Rockfax Description
Low in the grade. From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things then ease. A bouldery direct start up right side of the lower arete is Better Dead Than Smeg, E6 6c. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
To earn the grade you need to exit the chimney at the lowest possible point: from the gear slot on the right arete of the chimney, step DOWN and round onto the bottom of the slab, aiming for an obvious thin break, then climb the wall above.

FA. Phil Burke 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

kermit_uk 29/Oct/17 Lead G/U

Made the moves down and out right. Felt hard and couldn't recover enough on the face. Lowered off, pulled ropes and went back up. Got the move round the arete really wrong and it felt desperate. Managed to pull it together though. Great climbing, safe but tough. Definitely would be a lot easier to go right higher up with feet level with gear on the arete. I think maybe the route should go right from the chockstone then would avoid the down climbing and still be pretty well protected.

markfairbank 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Hard moving out after dropping down, but great climbing on the face

with Ray Sharples
James Oakes 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
jshields 11/May/17 2nd

Repeat, previous lead.

with Paul Tretheway
mattlyons 29/Apr/17 Lead dnf

End of the day, tired arms. Will be back.

with Sam Clarke, Josh Willson
Pippa 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/17 2nd O/S
James Smith 09/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with pippa, rich
benw681 03/Apr/17 Lead

Climbs a bit like wuthering at stanage but harder with mega polished rails to start on slab. Great above

with Lewis
Sophie Nunn 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Liz Y, Floris
Guy Bennell ?/Apr/17 Lead
Rory_Cummings_NI 24/Mar/17 2nd
with Andy Moles
Andy Moles 24/Mar/17 Lead
with Rory
timozheng ??/2017 Lead O/S
thrutch 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Sven
Neil McA 09/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Andy Perkins
Hidden 30/Sep/16 Lead
john lynch 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Bethan D
ferdia 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Tess Lyons, Ben Silvestre
JEP 26/May/16 2nd
soph 01/May/16 Lead rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
bwestwood 21/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
Ramon Marin 23/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Pidgen
SGD 06/Sep/15 Lead

Really good route. Once you work it out. edit: Think I went to high..must try again

with Vicky Holmes, Tom Relf
lukehodson 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

After reading this, think I went too high up the chimney. Traversed onto face with my feet at the same height as the arete gear

Mike505 19/Jul/15 Lead dog

Got it wrong (and clean) on my first attempt, I exited the chimney with my feet where my hands should have been - maybe only HVS if done like this? Realizing this I attempted it again at the end of the day with the hand traverse onto the face and pumped out on the crux move. That move is probably easier for the short and people with more strength than me!

pipmccarthy 19/Jul/15 2nd
with Mike505
pipmccarthy 19/Jul/15 2nd
with Mike505
climberchristy 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Cracking route. Couple of hard moves to get established in middle of wall. Easy after that.

with bencole
TonyF 03/Jun/15 2nd
with Paul Threthewey
Hidden 24/May/15 2nd O/S
Neal Jobling 22/May/15 Lead RP

Eastern Grit topo shows wrong point to exit the chimney. Although awkward to work out move round onto the face at the lowest point. Great climbing once on the main wall.

with Mowglee
Mowglee 21/May/15 2nd O/S
with Neal
paul79 16/May/15 Lead dog
eel 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan
ashtond6 06/Apr/15 Lead
bigdrew 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Wasn't a push over.. Dropped down and right (Crux?) from the chock stone before going up

with Dunc Frish
Hidden 02/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Haydn Jones 31/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/15 2nd
spragglerocks 19/Mar/15 2nd

Fell off the move out of the chimney.

with Mike Grant
Fragmod 17/Feb/15 Lead
Deezel65 17/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead
Hannes B 05/Nov/14 2nd
with Neil C
Martin Cooper 02/Nov/14 2nd
morganator 02/Nov/14 2nd
with Ross Mckerchar, Martin Cooper
quiffhanger 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Not sure I did this right - think I had my feet where my hands should have been. Was v easy for E2 the way I did it, even if it was getting dark!

with Jon M
ashtond6 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt
harry_lewis 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
The Reaper 12/Oct/14 Lead G/U

A number of frustrating falls from the move up from the traverse line until the key hold was pointed out.

Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Gudge 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Having read some of the comments below not sure I took the correct line on this - felt very soft.

with Helen B
lena.drapella 21/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Benjamin Ochner, dannyboy
dannyboy83 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead β
ashtond6 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 04/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Calum Wadsworth 11/Jun/14 Lead β

Did it properly this time really nice!

Lawrence Beesley-Peck 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
Jimmy Hyland 04/May/14 2nd O/S
Mr Messy 04/May/14 Lead dog

one fall/slip after the crux from nowhere......gutted

with Cath
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
Rob Adie ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
lewiz 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Veronika Sucha, Sahri
alp79 07/Sep/13 2nd dog

Fear face. Do not attempt a chimney with two pairs of approach shoes on the back of your harness.

with Mark Proctor, Jonny Ashton
ashtond6 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S

very nice!!

cem 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

An ignominious failure on a route I've led before: too sweaty, too tired and too uncoordinated

SMThompson1 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with John Burrow
DaveFidler 14/Aug/13 Lead RP

Hue lead Hawk's nest crack.

with Huw
huwbrace ?/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd dog
Dibdawg 27/May/13 Lead β
with Nate
georgedunton 19/May/13 2nd O/S
elCapitano 19/May/13 Lead O/S
rurp 30/Apr/13 Lead RP

coming around the arete hanging from hands level of gear, really tough moves to get to standing position on the central footholds after that easy and nice.

tcn_2002 16/Feb/13 Lead
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Tom C, Pete H
Brannock 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 21/Oct/12 Lead dog

One rest. Looking at the comments below I think some people are missing out the hardest section of this route, the UKC description is wrong, you dont go halfway up Swimmers Chimney. Climb 3m up the chimney then move down and right onto the face, so when you move onto the face your feet will be only just above the very bottom of the face with your hands in the very lowest break. The hardest moves are getting onto the face and getting from the first break to the second break, the gear is good throughout.

James Oswald 03/Oct/12 Lead dog

Fell off on the crux after messing up the sequence. Hard for 5c IMO, not that soft for E2 I don't think.... Super moves.

with deacon
Hidden 13/Sep/12 Lead
Coops_13 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Really good!

yarrow 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 01/Sep/12 Lead β
with Jake
lithos 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf

found the chimney easy, couldnt work out what level to go around at but i think eventually found it - reach to edge way right ? Guido couldnt remember it either hmmmm

Jake Young 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Tried doing a completely different route then realised i was leaving the crack way to low upon consulting the guidebook. so did the more logical route which was really enjoyable.

with Nick
yomteoman 28/Aug/12 2nd

legs pumped on chimney - must improve chimneying technique!

with John Bramwell
Dave Foster 18/May/12 Lead rpt
with Si 2
Hidden 18/May/12 2nd O/S
jwpil 18/May/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
Kemics 12/May/12 Lead O/S

First E2 onsight. Chimney is a bit of a battle. Wobbled out on the slab, was very happy to get gear in the break though placed it blind. Very balancy crux but great moves.

katherinesydney 12/May/12 2nd dog

The severe chimney is almost the hardest bit. (Good lead Caleb x)

phardman 06/May/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
deacondeacon 02/May/12 Lead rpt

Finally led it clean. Had previous led it with one fall. I find this route nails.

Alex@home 23/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Mar/12 2nd dog

Felt very hard this time and tricky to get right first time onsight. The crux sequence felt sustained and involved what felt like at least 2 5c moves followed by a 5b move. Super route though with fun finish.

with Richard Waltham
Dave89 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dave C
gingerwolf 08/Jan/12 TR O/S
Lunar25 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Feels quite eliminate and a one move wonder but my what a move!

with James Morrison, Dave LE
Hidden 08/Jan/12 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Holdsworth 12/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Not so much a matter of not finishing but of going straight up (E1 5b?) instead of the true route.

with Martin Haworth
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
tuftynick 16/Oct/11 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Oct/11 AltLd
with Tufty
Ally Smith 15/Oct/11 Lead β
with Naomi, Gareth
LisaA 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
AlistairB 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Lisa
al123 09/Aug/11 Lead dog

must have read this one really badly, crux move felt hard and fell off trying it and dogged on gear after. disappointed really.

with gavin
richardr 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 31/May/11 2nd O/S
with Bart, John
tebs 31/May/11 Lead
with Tim
DaveFidler 29/May/11 Lead dog
Brown 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with James T
pabbage 29/Apr/11 Lead
markalmack 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Really nice. tricky move out onto the face. lots of gear.

with james marjot
Jonathan Hall 16/Apr/11 Lead

Really good i though, had a bit of an all round fail with rope drag and gear but made it after one slump.

Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

much easier today, should have had it O/S before but was too tired to finish the moves up the wall, Nice climb.

with Becky E
Danstephens 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 25/Feb/11 Lead RP
nadeem 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
RM199 ??/2011 2nd dog
batterj2 07/Nov/10 2nd dog
with Nick Sillem
tebs 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Enjoyable and quite hard, small gear but pretty much perfect. Good moves on the face.

with chris swift
simondunf 17/Oct/10 Lead
with charlie
speedymccreedy 09/Oct/10 TR dog

Follow on top rope - crazy baby bouce belay - am too tall which made work of the chimmney. The step onto the face was nearly impossible as was the next 3-4 metres. Eased off neary the top only to finish on a strenuous move. Had nothing left in me and doubt i could even class this as an honest crack at what would have been my first E2.

ElvisLeg 09/Oct/10 2nd dog
petellis 25/Sep/10 Lead RP

The worst E2 I've done, uncharacteristically hard move out of the chimney in between 2 sections of VS climbing. Fell off the crux a couple of times whilst trying to find out where the route went and couldn't face climbing the polished chimney again so re-started from the chimney. Nice climbing on the upper slab though.

with Alaan
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead β
highrepute 30/May/10 Lead O/S
hamish2016 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with pete graham
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 07/May/10 2nd O/S
with Guido
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 21/Apr/10 Lead dog

The lower way is hard, top way is easy

burto 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with fergus
mattyork2 05/Apr/10 2nd
jkarran 05/Apr/10 Lead dog

Clean from the chimney after the first attempt to leave it a little too high. The wall feels very steady once established especially after the desperate chimney! Cross with myself for fluffing this while feeling rubbish.

with Matt
Simon Davenport 21/Mar/10 Lead dog

Not good with a migrain and next the bloody remains of a fall just a few hours earlier. Come back when feeling better

Rob Grant 12/Mar/10 Lead
with Lindy
Gambit 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
gordonday ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S

About as bottom end E2 and soft 5c that's possible. Enjoyable moves onto the arete which were balancy. Some nice moves on good holds to follow and finished with a stiff mantleshelf.

Ketu 29/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Rich, Emma
Dave Foster 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Good route.

with Andy
mark s 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with andi,grimer
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd dog
jchenoweth 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Chris K
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Reaver2k 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Hard! Start up the awkward chimney, then drop down out right by some really tricky moves and relatively poor protection. Sort of got my left hand on the arete, and bridged and reached round with my right hand to the poor break, then swung my right foot round onto a small hold and keep moving right, then use crimps to get yourself established on the top wall. Really really nice moves, possibly worth 3 stars if it didn't feel unnatural to break off from the chimney.

with Michael Watson
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
DavidR 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
gordonday 11/Jun/09 Lead dog
with clive
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/09 2nd rpt
craig d 07/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox and Simon Kincaid
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Apr/09 Lead
with Nic and Katherine
bigphil 18/Apr/09 Lead dog

Dropped down too low into the E5 and got pumped stupid. After a sit on the rope made it back to the chimney and then completed. Does being off route in a big way count as a dog?

with Steve & Elsa
mel holmes 08/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex@home
Becky E 05/Apr/09 2nd dog
aaron7 27/Mar/09 TR O/S
Somerset swede basher 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Payne
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead
adam coxsell 31/Jan/09 2nd
with Gareth
gnc760 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Cocky
Hidden 02/Jan/09 Lead O/S
jonnybull ??/2009 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S

In the dark

with Luke Porter
mic_b 17/Oct/08 Lead rpt
PenJD 11/Oct/08 Lead dog

Great route. Moved around the arete fine but then fluffed the move up to the little flake. Short rest then got it fine. Frustrating but still fun.

John Lisle 28/Sep/08 Lead
with JDP, RS
smudge 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 11/Sep/08 Lead O/S

good piece of chimneying, followed by easyish face climbing protected by good opposing wires.

with Norwich Rodger
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead dog
morganator 08/Jul/08 2nd O/S
TomHaigh 16/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Doug
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead dog
Daniel Wicks 22/May/08 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
WB 13/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Jim
joe larner 11/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Great stuff. Fantastic moves.

with Simon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/07 Lead dog
Dan 85 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with John
Owen W-G 06/Oct/07 Lead RP

2nd attempt ground up having muffed the onsight. Worth spending time checking out possible sequence from ground as crux moves felt pretty hard to read on the move.

with Max
Coel Hellier ?/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/07 TR dog
Stig 11/May/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead rpt
Stuart Johnston 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 12/Nov/06 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Nov/06 Lead dnf
Martin Haworth ?/Nov/06 Lead RP
with Andy
Ben1983 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Stepped around the arete too high, apparantly...

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Aug/06 Lead rpt
Joe Costello 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/2006 Lead O/S
with nigel
Hidden 10/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Ramsden
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
brownie mike ??/2005 -
willackers ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Rob Napier
NeilGriffiths 26/Sep/04 -
with Dave Garry
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Pete Crawforth
cem 18/Jul/04 Lead β

Unseconded. Not an onsight as I'd top-roped it about 3 years earlier and I remembered the lower half of it

Hidden 12/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden 30/May/04 TR
bigphil 23/May/04 Lead O/S
with Nick
Stefan 12/May/04 2nd dog
with Simon
tommytwotone 02/May/04 2nd O/S
with Richard Hatton
nickdonohue ??/2004 2nd
with Joe Brown
Hidden 19/Oct/03 Lead RP
Dave Bond 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead rpt
DubyaJamesDubya 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
ArnaudG ?/May/03 Lead rpt
with Dunc
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead dog
Mark Davies PK ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
marcoleptic ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Ian Mac, Akhil
ArnaudG ?/Jun/02 2nd
with Jon
Duncan I ??/2002 2nd
with Arnaud G
marcoleptic ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Tommo
Mark Davies PK ??/2002 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
Hidden 27/May/01 2nd
Hidden 20/May/01 Lead
Hidden 06/May/00 Lead
sadams 06/Feb/00 Lead
with John Boyle
nai ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Nick
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 -
chris sm 17/Jul/99 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Jul/99 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/99 2nd
ajc 20/Jun/99 2nd dog
Ropeboy 05/Jun/99 Lead
Rich Kirby 06/Apr/99 Lead
Billg ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Nikki Palfrey
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Dec/98 Lead
with Nick Ashton
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/97 Lead
goi.ashmore 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
Hidden 15/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/95 Lead
uphillnow 12/Oct/95 Lead

Frank started but didnt get out of the initial chimney. having watched him managed the move and the rest.

with Frank Horseman
SR1970 ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/95 Lead
Steve Crowe 11/May/95 Lead O/S
with KM
John Southworth ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 27/Apr/95 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
crossleysm ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Okecroak 24/Sep/94 Lead
with J. Homewood
Hidden 10/Jul/94 TR
Hidden 14/Jun/94 Lead
ste_d 11/Mar/94 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 24/Aug/93 Lead
frost ?/Jul/93 Lead
NickJH ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with I Smith
nokishatov 01/May/93 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 17/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/93 Lead O/S
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/92 2nd dog
Rich Kirby 14/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Bruce woodley
Hidden 14/May/92 Lead
Chris Reid ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Roget 12/Jan/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Stoney Boy 27/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
Chris Wright 19/Jan/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1991 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
Hidden 24/May/88 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/88 2nd
Neil R 26/Aug/87 Lead
with Richard W
ukb & bmc shark ?/Nov/86 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Hidden 12/Apr/86 2nd
Neil McA 23/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Andy Perkins
Hidden 16/Aug/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Spike
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Solo
Paul Clarke ??/1980 Lead
with FMC
andy gittins ??/1978 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1972 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 70
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 71
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set