18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack (or the flaky wall to its left, which is more in keeping but a less logical line) and then enter the awkward continuation that splits the overhangs above with considerable difficulty. Long undergraded - maybe chockstones have gone or maybe the old guys were good at wriggling. We were going to give it E3 5c, but surely they weren't THAT good? © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1932

Ticklists

Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Chris Craggs 13 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so either I used to be better than I realised or chockstones have gone awol! Chris
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βeta: Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so either I used to be better than I realised or chockstones have gone awol! Chris
climbersion 16 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A full on sandbag at VS! The crux needs a camalot 4 for pro or equivalent. The moves themselves v awkward and not 4C, nearer to 5A/B but sweet when cracked!
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βeta: A full on sandbag at VS! The crux needs a camalot 4 for pro or equivalent. The moves themselves v awkward and not 4C, nearer to 5A/B but sweet when cracked!
Chris Craggs 13 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E1 (or 2?) 5a might be nearer the mark! CC
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βeta: E1 (or 2?) 5a might be nearer the mark! CC
Toby Dunn 8 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: not easy, and not well protected without a larger than 4 friend. USA 5.9!!
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βeta: not easy, and not well protected without a larger than 4 friend. USA 5.9!!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
luke_blazejewski 3 Aug 2nd O/S Funny old route, can't believe it's VS 4c in my guide! George did a great job of leading it. For an off-width it doesn't feel like E2, but if you get on it expecting a VS you'll be woken up pretty quickly!
Funny old route, can't believe it's VS 4c in my guide! George did a great job of leading it. For an off-width it doesn't feel like E2, but if you get on it expecting a VS you'll be woken up pretty quickly!
George Frisby 3 Aug Lead dog Got it clean from the ledge on my third attempt. Not so hard once you've worked out the moves, chucked in my first proper hand fist stack! Feels very E1 or HVS if you've got a size 5 BD cam to back up the chockstone.
Got it clean from the ledge on my third attempt. Not so hard once you've worked out the moves, chucked in my first proper hand fist stack! Feels very E1 or HVS if you've got a size 5 BD cam to back up the chockstone.
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Seemed much harder than I remembered but was not climbing well.
with NinaR
Seemed much harder than I remembered but was not climbing well.
with NinaR
NinaR 31 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S With a good thigh jam/wiggle
With a good thigh jam/wiggle
rustaldo 6 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Alex Hallam 6 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
julesmckim 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S With one pair of trousers for aid. HVS 5a. Would have been a nightmare in shorts
with paul jenkinson
With one pair of trousers for aid. HVS 5a. Would have been a nightmare in shorts
with paul jenkinson
jimbonfire 29 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Quite lichenous, but dry. 5b moves but only in initial roof, eases with height + good gear. definitive guide has the grade spot on IMO - harder for the short.
with TT
Quite lichenous, but dry. 5b moves but only in initial roof, eases with height + good gear. definitive guide has the grade spot on IMO - harder for the short.
with TT
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Hidden 5 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 2nd
Speeddemonsi ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Ketu 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S HVS 5A
HVS 5A
Graeme Hammond 25 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
with Ketu
with Ketu
BobPorter 12 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf
rob.s22 ??, 2008 Lead dnf Said VS in guide book total sandbag, or had a crucial chock stone gone?
with A.P.S
Said VS in guide book total sandbag, or had a crucial chock stone gone?
with A.P.S
Hidden 12 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S
Tim W 21 Aug, 2005 2nd
with darren1
with darren1
Phill Mitch ??, 2002 Lead O/S
with john d
with john d
Hidden ?Sep, 1999 2nd O/S
Woody63 4 Aug, 1999 TR
Hidden 4 Aug, 1999 TR
Martin Bennett 2 Jul, 1995 -
with Cec
with Cec
Nigel Bond 31 Jul, 1979 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
with Tony Cuddy
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set