UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Keep as near as possible to the centre of the slab left of Heather Wall, with the occasional runner in that route. It is a grade or two harder without these. © Rockfax

FA. Castle Mountaineering Club members 1970s.

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Jaimey's tricky slab list

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User Date Notes
harrypickin 11 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: My first hvs lead at 15. I climbed the first bit well but on the third tier of the climb -the crux- I fell being caught by my cam in the S crack to the right before trying again and topping. First proper trad fall as well
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βeta: My first hvs lead at 15. I climbed the first bit well but on the third tier of the climb -the crux- I fell being caught by my cam in the S crack to the right before trying again and topping. First proper trad fall as well
Martin Cleaver 4 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: glad to hear you wer allowed side runners. i used one just below the crux. all the gear is worthless if you fall. thinking this route was hvs whilst climbing made me very scared.. so its a relief to know its koads harder like it felt.. top route though
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βeta: glad to hear you wer allowed side runners. i used one just below the crux. all the gear is worthless if you fall. thinking this route was hvs whilst climbing made me very scared.. so its a relief to know its koads harder like it felt.. top route though
Dale Berry 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: For all who think the gear in Heather Wall spoils the route, a pink tricam fits very nicely in the obvious pocket that is easily reached just before the start of the crux sequence. May be a good E1 without the side runners using this...
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βeta: For all who think the gear in Heather Wall spoils the route, a pink tricam fits very nicely in the obvious pocket that is easily reached just before the start of the crux sequence. May be a good E1 without the side runners using this...
Furzy Sleight 2 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is like sundowner so would be E2 5a without siderunners.
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βeta: This is like sundowner so would be E2 5a without siderunners.
Swirly 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Even with side runners it's still abit of a fall off the crux as you have to move well away from th crack. I should know cos i fell off.
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βeta: Even with side runners it's still abit of a fall off the crux as you have to move well away from th crack. I should know cos i fell off.
Dale Berry 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to Chris the Tall: "Follow the slab just left of Heather Wall arranging protection in that route" From the '91 BMC Froggatt guide. I agree with runners in Heather Wall its soft for HVS, but without surely it would be worth at least 1 E-point.
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βeta: In reply to Chris the Tall: "Follow the slab just left of Heather Wall arranging protection in that route" From the '91 BMC Froggatt guide. I agree with runners in Heather Wall its soft for HVS, but without surely it would be worth at least 1 E-point.
Chris the Tall 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A lot harder than I remember, so I reckon I must have done it with side runners last time. The guide ought to say whether the grade reflects the use of side runners.
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βeta: A lot harder than I remember, so I reckon I must have done it with side runners last time. The guide ought to say whether the grade reflects the use of side runners.
Dale Berry 12 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A rather nice piece of slab climbing. Technically much harder than 3PS, though with the side runners, more reliably protected. Hats off to anyone who solos it though...
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βeta: A rather nice piece of slab climbing. Technically much harder than 3PS, though with the side runners, more reliably protected. Hats off to anyone who solos it though...
r@bag 1 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good, tricky slab climbing. I wouldn't do it without the side runners although this makes it quite artificial.
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βeta: Good, tricky slab climbing. I wouldn't do it without the side runners although this makes it quite artificial.
Jon Greengrass 15 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: If you go direct up the slab which is the obvious line for a route independent of heather wall. It is much harder than 3PS with technical moves well above the gear. PS remember the micro wires or micro friends if you don\\\'t want a big fall from the hard moves near the top.
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βeta: If you go direct up the slab which is the obvious line for a route independent of heather wall. It is much harder than 3PS with technical moves well above the gear. PS remember the micro wires or micro friends if you don\'t want a big fall from the hard moves near the top.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 132
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 129
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Legacy

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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