Rockfax Description
Keep as near as possible to the centre of the slab left of Heather Wall, with the occasional runner in that route. It is a grade or two harder without these. © Rockfax
FA. Castle Mountaineering Club members 1970s.
Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Jaimey's tricky slab list
User | Date | Notes | ||
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harrypickin | 11 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: My first hvs lead at 15. I climbed the first bit well but on the third tier of the climb -the crux- I fell being caught by my cam in the S crack to the right before trying again and topping. First proper trad fall as well | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first hvs lead at 15. I climbed the first bit well but on the third tier of the climb -the crux- I fell being caught by my cam in the S crack to the right before trying again and topping. First proper trad fall as well |
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Martin Cleaver | 4 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: glad to hear you wer allowed side runners. i used one just below the crux. all the gear is worthless if you fall. thinking this route was hvs whilst climbing made me very scared.. so its a relief to know its koads harder like it felt.. top route though | βeta? | |
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βeta: glad to hear you wer allowed side runners. i used one just below the crux. all the gear is worthless if you fall. thinking this route was hvs whilst climbing made me very scared.. so its a relief to know its koads harder like it felt.. top route though |
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Dale Berry | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: For all who think the gear in Heather Wall spoils the route, a pink tricam fits very nicely in the obvious pocket that is easily reached just before the start of the crux sequence. May be a good E1 without the side runners using this... | βeta? | |
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βeta: For all who think the gear in Heather Wall spoils the route, a pink tricam fits very nicely in the obvious pocket that is easily reached just before the start of the crux sequence. May be a good E1 without the side runners using this... |
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Furzy Sleight | 2 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: This is like sundowner so would be E2 5a without siderunners. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is like sundowner so would be E2 5a without siderunners. |
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Swirly | 1 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Even with side runners it's still abit of a fall off the crux as you have to move well away from th crack. I should know cos i fell off. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Even with side runners it's still abit of a fall off the crux as you have to move well away from th crack. I should know cos i fell off. |
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Dale Berry | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: In reply to Chris the Tall: "Follow the slab just left of Heather Wall arranging protection in that route" From the '91 BMC Froggatt guide. I agree with runners in Heather Wall its soft for HVS, but without surely it would be worth at least 1 E-point. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In reply to Chris the Tall: "Follow the slab just left of Heather Wall arranging protection in that route" From the '91 BMC Froggatt guide. I agree with runners in Heather Wall its soft for HVS, but without surely it would be worth at least 1 E-point. |
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Chris the Tall | 25 May, 2004 |
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βeta: A lot harder than I remember, so I reckon I must have done it with side runners last time. The guide ought to say whether the grade reflects the use of side runners. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A lot harder than I remember, so I reckon I must have done it with side runners last time. The guide ought to say whether the grade reflects the use of side runners. |
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Dale Berry | 12 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: A rather nice piece of slab climbing. Technically much harder than 3PS, though with the side runners, more reliably protected. Hats off to anyone who solos it though... | βeta? | |
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βeta: A rather nice piece of slab climbing. Technically much harder than 3PS, though with the side runners, more reliably protected. Hats off to anyone who solos it though... |
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r@bag | 1 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Good, tricky slab climbing. I wouldn't do it without the side runners although this makes it quite artificial. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good, tricky slab climbing. I wouldn't do it without the side runners although this makes it quite artificial. |
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Jon Greengrass | 15 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: If you go direct up the slab which is the obvious line for a route independent of heather wall. It is much harder than 3PS with technical moves well above the gear. PS remember the micro wires or micro friends if you don\\\'t want a big fall from the hard moves near the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you go direct up the slab which is the obvious line for a route independent of heather wall. It is much harder than 3PS with technical moves well above the gear. PS remember the micro wires or micro friends if you don\'t want a big fall from the hard moves near the top. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)