Rockfax Description
Super direct and a super route. Start direct up thin cracks in the slab just right of the arete to join the parent route which is then followed to the Leaning Tower. Then climb the bulging crack and well-positioned crest of the buttress. One of the very best routes on Bleaklow. . © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling late 1960s 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

rtinma 28/Aug/17 2nd

A stunning line with varied climbing throughout. Definitely one of the best HVS routes on grit in a superb setting.

The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 21/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Alfie Maun 20/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Joe Barlow, dmurray654
Dónal Murray 20/Jun/17 2nd
with Joe Barlow, Alfie Maun
scotty88 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with James
eb202 18/Jun/17 Lead dog

Fluffed the crux by missing a foot hold. Re-collected myself and got it after a rest. Brilliant, coming back for it.

with Michael
Tony Holdsworth 18/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Helen Musson, Steve Smith
Mike505 18/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Jun/17 2nd dog
PeteWilson 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S

very tired by this point. great route but thought east rib was better. couple of slippery finger locks in the thin crack to get stood up, then jugs all the way to the top! very well protected and solid rock all the way

chrishedgehog 26/May/17 Lead O/S
with Kieran Myles
tom_lewis89 23/May/17 -

Semi Lead - went up on Jon's rope to his highest piece of gear and lead from there. Should have gone for the full lead!

buxtoncoffeelover 23/May/17 2nd

Cheated with easy start. Superb jamming up curved crack, & excellent (intimidating!) pull/bridge thru the bulge

Flavio 21/May/17 Solo O/S
Stroppy 14/May/17 2nd rpt
mikespooner 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with Dave Mason
slowmotion 14/May/17 Lead O/S

First trad lead in a loooong while. Good one to do it on and I didn't jam a thing :) P.S. thanks Ed for not letting me wuss out at the start!

Andy Peak 1 08/Apr/17 2nd
with cheque
Andy Peak 1 08/Apr/17 2nd
with cheque
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Dan Wright 04/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Hansa Patel, Mark
Hidden 27/Aug/16 2nd
Michael Morrell 26/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Got in a flap and went off left, grit is hard.

Droyd 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Mind-blowingly good, so much beautiful jamming.

g1m147 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Mick.
paulsross 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Phil Biglands
chrisbrown2050 23/Jul/16 2nd dnf

Dogged my way up the starting crux but still couldn't manage the crack above

LovelyMrTom 23/Jul/16 Lead dog

Fantastic route. Fell off trying to tackle the crack in the bulge direct. Stepping up on the leaning tower then back out right worked much better!

Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd dog
bryce.dorin 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Corty, MattAcres
Keith Swainson 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, technical start, perfects jams, strenuous upper section on good holds and well protected, right up my street. Best route on the crag?

with MTL, Georgie
Georgie25 17/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd β
ian Wignall 24/Jun/16 2nd
adi bryant 23/Jun/16 2nd β
peachos 05/Jun/16 2nd dog

Struggled on the mid section on the rightward slanting crack. Took a fair few attempts and lots of hanging around.

with Graeme
Andy Moles 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Silvestre
Peakpdr ??/2016 -
Hidden 06/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Jimbo C 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Sustained and superb. Worth walking up just for this route.

with Chris, Pete
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Julie 31/Jul/15 2nd
with Sam
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead
the power 29/Jul/15 Lead dnf


with deacon
C May 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with C May
Kirill 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead dnf
cem 11/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd
Bry 04/Jul/15 2nd β
Mike505 ?/Jul/15 Lead
jmills94 ?/Jul/15 2nd

Hardest part was the bloody crack shared with the vs! had to pop for the ledge as there was nothing to pull me across onto the foot hold. The HVS section seemed like a cruise, one move up on good holds then a nice rest ledge. Really good route.

with michael
Alex the Alex 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Mega! Such a good route. Cool problem to start, and then some really good moves up the rack, and then some wild moves through the bulge, and then glory jugs to the top! Wizard.

with Ed, Rog
Stroppy 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Felt hard at 5a but fantastic route

RKirke 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
keith leonard ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Martin Bagshaw 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green, Chris CMC
pete1993 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Nick
amccann 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt H
Matt Harmon 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd
Andy Peak 1 06/Aug/14 Lead

The best Hvs 5a on grit, the start is the crux and more like 5b for the short:-)

with Andrew Deckon
grrrrrrrh 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Jon Gill
jon_gill1 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Geoff Hannis
atom 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Truly one of the best climbs in the area if not on grit. The walk in is definitely worth it, quality

georgenvk 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
Becks87 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 26/Jul/14 Lead
with al
quickdrawmcraw 26/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Hardcore Pat 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
David_Gledson 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
tatz45 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
shaunhumphreys 02/Jul/14 Lead β

Half on frans gear after he traversed off, didnt think it was as good as east rib!

franhammond92 02/Jul/14 2nd

Tried to lead but got scared off by the bulge. Nice boulder problem start I though

Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Robb Bert 22/Jun/14 -
j.buckley87 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
manwithacam 18/Jun/14 Lead

Lovely route, been on my list for years. Perfect high summer evening

newskin 18/Jun/14 2nd dnf

The first move is tricky for shorter folk and took me about 10 attempts at stacked finger jams to finally reach the ledge. One day I'll tackle the walk in and re-attempt this one, as it is a lovely route that is sadly above my ability right now.

with Dan Metcalfe
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Stig 13/Jun/14 2nd rpt
sann1458 ?/Jun/14 2nd

One of the best climbs I have ever done.

IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
MDowson 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with sam webb
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Anne Gumbley 20/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank
markfairbank 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Anne Gumbley, Ray Sharples
Paul Clarke 17/Jul/13 2nd
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Warm-up route but what a belter!

Phill Mitch 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with bleggs
sopaz 13/Jul/13 2nd
Wil Treasure 13/Jul/13 Lead
jimbonfire 13/Jul/13 -
admackie 13/Jul/13 Lead
Sidekick 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Derek Furze 09/Jul/13 Lead
Pete Wimbush 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Wiles
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead
Mowglee 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Josh, Ed Hutchings
Fragmod 06/Jul/13 2nd
DanielGyi 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Bugryniec
Hidden 01/Jul/13 -
bencole ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
dangmtb 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Commiting moves over bulge! My guide said VS but would of said HVS..

jimbobted 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with dangmtb
The Grist 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Paula lockett
Mr Messy 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

now in my top 5 HVSs

with mike
Bill Lawrence 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with tommy martin
pie_eater_pete 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 18/Jun/13 2nd
tsjx 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Garry
MikeLeeds 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Bruce Hayward
Climbster 06/Jun/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

We did this,Via Principia,Phoenix Climb and East Rib and had one of the best days climbing for a while. What a excellent place!

with Matt
snapperdan 05/Jun/13 2nd dog
JEP 04/Jun/13 Lead
with Jules
Jules Lane 04/Jun/13 2nd dog

Had to rest below the bulge trying to get a wire out. Must retry when fresh.

with Mynydd Johnathon
Jake Young 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really good!

with liam
Si dH 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
dominic lee 09/Sep/12 Solo
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
uphillnow 06/Sep/12 2nd
with john stanger
Hardonicus 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

This felt hard and sustained, some puffing/swearing required. Awesome route, one of the finest of 2012. Right hand start taken.

with Ben Powrie
BenedictIEP 11/Aug/12 2nd dog
John Nuttall 08/Aug/12 Lead
with Clive
karly54 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Cookson
Hidden 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead
ColinD 29/May/12 Lead
chrisbussell 29/May/12 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Brown 26/May/12 2nd
with Lilifa
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
Sam Cooke 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climb, well worth three stars and a top50 spot. Sustained 5a I reckon, but the protection is superb in the lower crack while the climbing flows through the bulge very nicely indeed. Despite this, I felt exposed and Steve got a barrage of increasingly excited blasphemy...

SteveHi 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Sam Cooke
Jonathan Hall 27/Mar/12 Lead
RM199 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Scott Anderson ??/2012 -
Chris Ellis 02/Oct/11 2nd
with Martin Veale, Louise Pellett
Hidden ?/Oct/11 2nd
Peakpdr 29/Sep/11 2nd
with andy
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with UKC Paul
riff156 20/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Jo Smith
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Mr Sparkle 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 24/Jul/11 2nd
Steven Andrews 27/Jun/11 2nd

took the arete to start as the direct start was a bit grubby.

with Richard Lines
Hoyes 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Stolen from a showery forecast and bathed in evening sunshine! A super climb.

Batt 21/Jun/11 2nd

Bottom is hard for the short, top is hard for the weak! The gear is bomber though

drcorbasisgod 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
JRae 21/May/11 2nd
with A Saul
Reaver2k 21/May/11 Lead
with JRae
Dave Gilling 04/May/11 Lead
with Chris Parson
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd dog
Peter Holder 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Aimee Wariner
howlingbaboon 25/Apr/11 Lead dog

Rested below the bulging crack, Very good route!

with Scott
Scott Anderson 25/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Also 2nd with Neil 21/6/2017

with Jim
Jim Slater 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
catblack 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
chrisallan 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 27/Jun/10 2nd
liamoloughlin 12/Jun/10 Lead
Ram MkiV 24/May/10 Lead β
with Ivan, tez
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead
davidwright 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead dog
Pilch 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Graham
Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

OMG how good is this!!

with Pete aka Dad
embob 22/Aug/09 2nd dog

Al's warm up route! I had one fall over the bulge as didn't know whether to trust the chockstone.

with Alex
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead
Roger Cruse 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Kris
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd dog
dominic lee 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with mike waters
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Steve Waters, Mynydd 02/Jun/09 Lead

Started more directly using the thin cracks to right of arete. Mike led off, but fell on the crux. I took over and led through. Careful footwork eases the strenousness. The crux is well protected and consists of a set of steep moves.

JDDD 02/Jun/09 2nd
mtempest 02/Jun/09 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
dashitboarder 31/May/09 TR

Felt tough F6a. Started on cracks to the right - seemed 5b. Hard pumpy bit through overhang.

Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd
Tony Little 21/Apr/09 2nd
with Dan
max_chan 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Started more directly using thin cracks to right of arete.

with Lou
joe larner 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
gazfellows 07/May/08 2nd
with shaun d
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
mark s ??/2008 Lead O/S
with andi,rach
runestone 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Mike B
John Kettle 11/Aug/07 -
Shad ?/May/07 2nd
GrahamPlant 29/Apr/07 2nd dog
with robin gay
GrahamPlant 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jamie Armatage
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead
Tom Phillips 05/Aug/06 2nd
with mick
Hidden 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S
colin milton 28/Jul/06 Lead
with horace
spacey 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Paul Evans 02/Jul/06 2nd
with spacey
Rob Davies 17/Jun/06 2nd

Finished by Phil - start OK this time but backed off steep crack

with Phil Ashton
dan gibson 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
A Crook 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Duncan Hassell
Stig 02/Sep/05 2nd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 21/Aug/05 2nd β
Hidden 17/Aug/05 Lead
maybe_si ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/05 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 17/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
caradoc 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with IanH
Hidden 09/Jul/05 2nd
Rob Davies 19/Jun/05 Lead dnf

Start too slippy due to humidity - didn't feel like 5a

Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/04 2nd
Trobbo 05/Jul/04 2nd
with mark humphries
Hidden 22/May/04 Lead O/S
cem 16/May/04 2nd
with Rod Strachan
Ben1983 ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/03 Lead O/S
mike fenwick ?/Sep/03 Solo

Back rope solo

Stig 25/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
malc 14/Aug/03 Lead dog
with CH
Hidden 09/Aug/03 Lead O/S
lithos 10/Jul/03 2nd
andybirtwistle 10/Jul/03 Lead
Mark A Humphries 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with gary wood
DubyaJamesDubya 31/May/03 Lead O/S

A classic 'three star classic'...!

with Martin Flint
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
runestone 21/Jul/01 Lead
with Blod
Hidden 24/Jun/01 2nd
Mark Davies PK ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Laura
Mark Riley ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Pete Oates
Hidden 05/Sep/99 2nd β
chris sm 13/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
SR1970 ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
Martin Bennett 28/Sep/97 -
with MT
FrankW 16/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Joe
goi.ashmore 07/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
jcw ?/Jun/97 -
with Martin Harris
colin milton 22/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with eric milton
Hidden 08/May/95 2nd
pingora 02/Apr/95 -
with Bev, Ian
Gordon Stainforth 23/Jul/94 -
with Steve Dean
Hidden 10/Jul/94 Lead
charlesmfrench 06/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Andy Wingfield
NickJH ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with AGrieve, N Hancock
John Marsland 16/May/92 Lead dog
with Dave Soles
AlanLittle ??/1992 2nd
with Carl Blakeley
Roget 27/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones, Jonathan T
Hidden ?/Jun/91 Lead
Pete Pozman 21/Oct/90 2nd
with John Byrne
Hidden 20/Jul/82 2nd
babymoac 25/Apr/82 Lead
with Jerry Codling
Hidden ?/Aug/81 AltLd
Tom V ??/1980 -
Sean Kelly ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Hidden 10/Jun/78 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/78 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 90
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 88
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set