UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Total class - not too hard but still unprotected and a touch precarious. Trend right up a delicate ramp to a ledge, 'piano-play' right on slippery footholds to a breather on a small ledge, then climb the steeper wall on flatties. Harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Hard Grit history , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , 50 of the Best , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Jaimey's tricky slab list , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Eal List , Best Before 2025 , Peel's Primo Projects , Sheffield , East and West Top 25 , Frogatt 30 , Don’t Slip (At all) Now

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jim blackford 15 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: if E3 (or even slabby 5b) is harder than you usually lead, please don't toprope it as the footholds are getting really polished on the crux by shit footwork. As others have said, it's not 3 stars if you toprope it - maybe 1 star. The 3 stars is for the onsight solo experience.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if E3 (or even slabby 5b) is harder than you usually lead, please don't toprope it as the footholds are getting really polished on the crux by shit footwork. As others have said, it's not 3 stars if you toprope it - maybe 1 star. The 3 stars is for the onsight solo experience.
Pythonist 13 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Incredible. Absolute incredible. The feeling upon reaching the far ledge is one of the highlights of your life... I think the whole valley heard my whoop of joy! Agree totally with Dave on the crux traverse - 5c to contemplate, 5a to do. Make sure to take a minute or two on that far ledge to loose some of the massive amount of adrenaline that's just been dumped into your system!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredible. Absolute incredible. The feeling upon reaching the far ledge is one of the highlights of your life... I think the whole valley heard my whoop of joy! Agree totally with Dave on the crux traverse - 5c to contemplate, 5a to do. Make sure to take a minute or two on that far ledge to loose some of the massive amount of adrenaline that's just been dumped into your system!
LakesWinter 27 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Top roping wasters stop ruining this and other good routes on the slabs hereabouts with your antics. It is unfair and reducing the challenge of the climb to your level whilst damaging it for others. Top ropings ok, just not on delicate mid-grade routes like this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top roping wasters stop ruining this and other good routes on the slabs hereabouts with your antics. It is unfair and reducing the challenge of the climb to your level whilst damaging it for others. Top ropings ok, just not on delicate mid-grade routes like this.
Just Another Dave 21 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most rewarding climbs ever. Crux feels like 4b after doing it, but 6a to contemplate. The onsight makes it just worth E3, but also earns all 3 stars. If there were a bomber runner at the crux, it would get HVS 5a, and hardly a single star. (top-ropers note: it is not just the grade that depends on the style, but the star-rating also, as the quality is not in the moves as such, but in the experience).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most rewarding climbs ever. Crux feels like 4b after doing it, but 6a to contemplate. The onsight makes it just worth E3, but also earns all 3 stars. If there were a bomber runner at the crux, it would get HVS 5a, and hardly a single star. (top-ropers note: it is not just the grade that depends on the style, but the star-rating also, as the quality is not in the moves as such, but in the experience).

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Demon Rib

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Black Rocks)

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