40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance.
1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back).
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA.Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964.

eel 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 15/Aug/15 AltLd

Fell out of the top crack lowered back to the belay and got it next time. Currently full of mud / twigs :(

with Eve
Adam Long 21/Jul/15 AltLd

Good varied climbing

with Ben Bransby
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Apharri 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd

with Jim Gayler
mike mo ??/2014 -
andi turner 24/Aug/11 Lead

Excellent. Fantastically exposed top roof. Found first pitch crux harder than second pitch crux for some reason.

with John Perry
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd

Followed the 1st pitch from the cave but failed to lead the crux pitch through the overhang, so led final pitch of Nightmare instead.

with Andy S & Dominic O
alaan 04/Jul/10 Lead

2nd pitch too dirty through roof, downclimbed and went left instead but lobbed onto gear to prevent throwing rocks at belayer! Exciting belay too...

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Sep/09 Lead RP
Brown 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 08/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 14/Aug/04 Lead rpt
William Robertson ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 -
AlexRenshaw 12/Nov/89 Lead
with Tim Raffle
DDDD ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/88 Lead dnf
sadams 01/Aug/86 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
ukb & bmc shark 01/May/85 AltLd
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 06/Apr/85 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 Lead
with Tony Cox
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Mark Kemball 27/Sep/81 2nd

Hauled up it!

with John Jefferies
Hidden 05/Sep/81 AltLd O/S
Andy Stephenson 05/Sep/81 AltLd dog

Chris led the crux pitch well, but I struggled to get above the overhang and had to have help.

with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Apr/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
duncan ?/May/80 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead dog
with Mick Hardwick
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set