40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance.
1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back).
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA.Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964.


ClimberDateStyle
Duncan Campbell 03/Jun AltLd

Misha led approach pitch fr6b then I lead first pitch of this. Didn't do the top as Misha tried a load of times but couldn't do it so he bailed off up nightmare. Not 3 stars?

with Misha
Misha 03/Jun AltLd dnf

Fucking nails! Slightly worrying bimble up the bolted approach pitch. Duncan dispatched the first proper pitch, enjoyable climbing with a tricky crux at the end. I tried the crux pitch. And tried. And tried again. Must have lowered off / down climbed about 10 times before giving up and escaping up Donkeys. By the time I figured out the fingerlocks in the crack, I was too goosed to hold on. Gave it a bit of a clean on the ab down as there was soil deep in the crack but not going to use that as an excuse, it's just hard! One to come back to.

with Duncan
eel 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 15/Aug/15 AltLd

Fell out of the top crack lowered back to the belay and got it next time. Currently full of mud / twigs :(

with Eve
Adam Long 21/Jul/15 AltLd

Good varied climbing

with Ben Bransby
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Apharri 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd

with Jim Gayler
mike mo ??/2014 -
andi turner 24/Aug/11 Lead

Excellent. Fantastically exposed top roof. Found first pitch crux harder than second pitch crux for some reason.

with John Perry
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd

Followed the 1st pitch from the cave but failed to lead the crux pitch through the overhang, so led final pitch of Nightmare instead.

with Andy S & Dominic O
alaan 04/Jul/10 Lead

2nd pitch too dirty through roof, downclimbed and went left instead but lobbed onto gear to prevent throwing rocks at belayer! Exciting belay too...

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Sep/09 Lead RP
Brown 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 08/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 14/Aug/04 Lead rpt
William Robertson ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 -
AlexRenshaw 12/Nov/89 Lead
with Tim Raffle
DDDD ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/88 Lead dnf
sadams 01/Aug/86 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
ukb & bmc shark 01/May/85 AltLd
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 06/Apr/85 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 Lead
with Tony Cox
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Mark Kemball 27/Sep/81 2nd

Hauled up it!

with John Jefferies
Hidden 05/Sep/81 AltLd O/S
Andy Stephenson 05/Sep/81 AltLd dog

Chris led the crux pitch well, but I struggled to get above the overhang and had to have help.

with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Apr/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
duncan ?/May/80 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead dog
with Mick Hardwick
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set