Rockfax Description
A direct line but inferior to its neighbours. Climb the bold wall left of the flake to the break, continue direct up cracks to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1979

Adam Long 14/Aug Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun Lead O/S
Gambit 30/Mar Lead O/S

Better than the guidebook suggests

FelixJT 02/Oct/16 Lead
with john long
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
alp79 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Mark Proctor, Sam F
andrzej kierzek 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Definitely E1 5b. Also, very nice line, especially in upper part. I give it **

with Rachel, James
tomwright1509 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/16 Lead β
Nick Wallis 13/May/15 2nd O/S

worth E1 for the bold start and the reachy move higher up

with Tom Holdsworth
Antonio Ferra ?/May/15 2nd β
with blonde tom
BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
WillDoyle 26/Dec/14 Lead O/S
fabricio 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Worthwhile interesting climbing. No extremely hard moves but would give it an E1. that is if you stick left and avoid using the ramp of Chequers Buttress.

with lee
ashtond6 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S


The Reaper 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
stevelismore 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Neither of us were entirely sure of the route. I ended up usins some of the arete-fairly sure that's not really in!

with PCC Nate
kermit_uk 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alex 74 29/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Tom Baggott
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead β
TonyF 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ronnie
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead β
planetmarshall 05/May/14 2nd dog
with John Haddon
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Scott Anderson ?/Mar/14 -
with Gav, Max
SPK06 02/Jan/14 2nd
with tony
Andy Peak 1 22/Dec/13 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
alias dave 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ethan109 03/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Evan
evanofthefell ?/Apr/13 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 20/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Neil McA 11/Nov/12 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
victim of mathematics 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Started up Chequers Buttress as that's where James had put all the gear. The start as described looks unreasonably bold (and a bit hard) for HVS. Nearly fell off the top, which is probably E1 too.

James Oswald 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Kind of an onsight. Ish. Got my hands at the top of the groove then stepped right... There is a lovely technical move on the upper section

with Colin Angus
dannyboy83 07/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Martin Cooper 15/Jul/12 Lead dog

Strenuous start wiped me uout for top section. At crux look for slopey fooy out left/benath the crack with the gear in

with Stan
Twisty 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Lovely technical climbing, spicy start if you stick left and get off the ramp asap.

with Byron Buck
MoWalker3 05/May/12 -
with Craig
Hidden 22/Mar/12 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Mar/12 2nd

Have done harder E2s than this. The start is tricky and very bold and a fall would probably result in hitting the dorsal of Chequers Buttress. The second 5b crux on the upper section involves a long reach and is excellent. Worthwhile route but not one that I will be rushing to lead!

with Richard Waltham
Brown 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Lilifa
gingerwolf 02/Jan/12 2nd O/S
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
vanderz 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Penny Longstaff
Hidden 24/Jun/11 TR
clairejane ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Miss Prosser
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
tuftynick 06/Apr/11 2nd
with ben winston, rich cross
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Shauna 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Jules
JulesV 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

bold for hvs!

with Shauna Cunningham
Keendan 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Got pretty scared on the start, so placed a cam mega fast and the rest was ok. Belayer confirmed the ground fall potential after the first section. Definitely E1

Danstephens 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S
pastep 23/Jan/11 Lead

Got to be E1 the crux is desperate with gear placed low & will swing you into the ramp.

PaulHermes 23/Jan/11 2nd

Not sure how many people do the proper start up to the left of the flake!!. I was seconding so went for it! Its bloody hard for HVS, defo E1 especially the start which is unprotected

with Paul VCCC
Somerset swede basher 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Payne
will9911 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 29/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 29/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Oct/10 2nd
with Tom Bridgeland
3 Names 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dog
kingholmesy ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Andy S
metal arms 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
mrtom 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Lim
chris sm 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd
mrtom ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/08 Lead
adam carless 17/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Seems pretty hard for HVS - definitely a grade harder than Chequers Buttress.

Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
PanzerHanzler 12/Apr/08 2nd dog

One rest whilst working out the b****y crux

with Lafi Fides
russonly 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Tigger
Dan 85 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with John
v.jester ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with alex
Mark Stevenson 17/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Julie
climbingpixie 17/Dec/06 2nd
with Mark Stevenson
Phill Mitch ??/2006 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden 04/Dec/05 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 22/Apr/02 2nd
cem 19/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
reg_measures 12/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 12/Dec/97 Lead
with Martin Veale
Hammy 25/May/94 AltLd
with Pete Robinson
Roget 22/Jan/94 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
whispering nic 13/Nov/92 Solo O/S
with slow hand nick
NickJH ??/1992 Lead O/S
with JWood
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Neil R 28/Apr/91 Lead
with Ed
Hidden ??/1989 -
Martin Bennett 22/Oct/88 -
with Mark Harding, MT
Billg 14/Mar/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
ukb & bmc shark ?/Dec/84 2nd O/S
with Stu Campbell
uphillnow ?/Oct/83 2nd
with Mark (sam)
Nic Robinson ??/1980 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set