20m.

Rockfax Description
Devious but worthwhile - double ropes are sensible and may even be essential! Climb the ramp then traverse round the arete to access the upper section of Chequers Crack (p.401 ). © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1949

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS)

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UserDateNotes
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Don't discount this route as contrived - it really is great fun, but it certainly does need double ropes. It manages to avoid the cruxes of Chequers Buttress and Chequers Crack, but there is plenty of fine climbing left, and the exposed traverse is not to be missed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't discount this route as contrived - it really is great fun, but it certainly does need double ropes. It manages to avoid the cruxes of Chequers Buttress and Chequers Crack, but there is plenty of fine climbing left, and the exposed traverse is not to be missed!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Maia 13 Jul 2nd dog Needed a rest on the top crack to take out all of Rich's gear! Tough one though..
with rich_hw
Needed a rest on the top crack to take out all of Rich's gear! Tough one though..
with rich_hw
Samseabass 6 Jul 2nd O/S
Daria Shchedrina 6 Jul Lead
steveb2006 20 Jun 2nd
gritstone7 20 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May Lead O/S
jessieleong 30 Mar Lead dog Third climb of the day, decided to give it a go. Found traverse had a tonne of rope drag, so the final crack was mildly horrific- took a whole load of skin off! Tried laybacking, then taking out a silver cam, and a yellow cam as it was blocking progress! Finally jammed and got left foot so I could get at least to the bulge, then pull up on a sloper. WILD AND GRIM
with alexn
Third climb of the day, decided to give it a go. Found traverse had a tonne of rope drag, so the final crack was mildly horrific- took a whole load of skin off! Tried laybacking, then taking out a silver cam, and a yellow cam as it was blocking progress! Finally jammed and got left foot so I could get at least to the bulge, then pull up on a sloper. WILD AND GRIM
with alexn
Duncan Bell 1 Jan Lead O/S
Ollie Wragg ?? Lead
Hidden ?? Lead
Rocknast ?? Lead O/S
josefft 20 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
annakh 20 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
hfotheri 20 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2018 Lead
Max Streeton 23 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Jon Coutts
with Jon Coutts
Brodes 22 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with cem
with cem
cem 22 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Brodes
with Brodes
zoe.louise94 15 Sep, 2018 Lead This was a bit of an epic! It started with a long traverse followed by a pumpy layback crack, then just when my arms were starting to burn then came the most awkward section which involved a lot of not very graceful squirming. There was a lot of rope drag, I would advise sticking to Chequers crack.
This was a bit of an epic! It started with a long traverse followed by a pumpy layback crack, then just when my arms were starting to burn then came the most awkward section which involved a lot of not very graceful squirming. There was a lot of rope drag, I would advise sticking to Chequers crack.
jodikate 15 Sep, 2018 2nd Was interesting to second with all the rope drag! Fun(ish) though
Was interesting to second with all the rope drag! Fun(ish) though
Mischa2912 27 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
timrooker 24 Jul, 2018 Lead β on carla's gear after her momentous effort on the finishing crack (succumbed to flash pump as we chose this one to warm up, haha). personally, this is devious but not worthwhile, harder/more awkward than chequers buttress and not nearly as good.
with CarlaJG
on carla's gear after her momentous effort on the finishing crack (succumbed to flash pump as we chose this one to warm up, haha). personally, this is devious but not worthwhile, harder/more awkward than chequers buttress and not nearly as good.
with CarlaJG
CarlaJG 24 Jul, 2018 2nd I (Carla) lead this route up to the final crack where I left much skin and blood behind. Very pleasant climbing until you start feeling like your being dragged off by the ropes. The final crack - what an earth! Do you jam, do you try and lay it back? So pumpy and no elegant way to get over the bulge. Tim of course led this all with ease (grrrr) and I finished it off on second with slightly less difficulty thanks to the lack of rope drag! Stick to Chequers Buttress instead, much easier and more enjoyable!
I (Carla) lead this route up to the final crack where I left much skin and blood behind. Very pleasant climbing until you start feeling like your being dragged off by the ropes. The final crack - what an earth! Do you jam, do you try and lay it back? So pumpy and no elegant way to get over the bulge. Tim of course led this all with ease (grrrr) and I finished it off on second with slightly less difficulty thanks to the lack of rope drag! Stick to Chequers Buttress instead, much easier and more enjoyable!
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
AlexD 2 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Shamina
with Shamina
Hidden 13 May, 2018 2nd
mrphilipoldham 11 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 May, 2018 Lead
Gambit 19 Apr, 2018 2nd
with samkat
with samkat
Hidden 19 Apr, 2018 Lead
12stitcheslater 18 Apr, 2018 2nd dog 4c apparently! Really felt the fatigue coming in on the last push with the layback. I've gotta come back and get it done again!
4c apparently! Really felt the fatigue coming in on the last push with the layback. I've gotta come back and get it done again!
olddirtydoggy 18 Apr, 2018 Lead
isandyharper 25 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
with Matt
with Matt
jgrigson 24 Mar, 2018 2nd dog
mattgrange 24 Mar, 2018 Lead β Having previously done Chequers Buttress, I thought this was at least as hard, being by turns delicate, pumpy and forceful. Used two ropes, untying from the first after reaching the rest below (and placing the gear in) the continuation crack. A lot of fun though, varied and challenging.
Having previously done Chequers Buttress, I thought this was at least as hard, being by turns delicate, pumpy and forceful. Used two ropes, untying from the first after reaching the rest below (and placing the gear in) the continuation crack. A lot of fun though, varied and challenging.
MrFantastic 16 Feb, 2018 2nd
with RayG
with RayG
RayG 16 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Peter Goulding 12 Nov, 2017 2nd load of fucking wank
with Skel
load of fucking wank
with Skel
TobyA 30 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Proper tough going!
with Dave
Proper tough going!
with Dave
JGriffiths 23 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
danieleaston 23 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Excellent. Hard. Impossible ropework. cowered under the overhang traverse for a while, then blasted up the crack.
Excellent. Hard. Impossible ropework. cowered under the overhang traverse for a while, then blasted up the crack.
James Oakes 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Ban1 9 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Fuck that again
with markrob
Fuck that again
with markrob
mikkistorey 3 Jun, 2017 Lead
with steve
with steve
Pixie-Andy 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S VS 5a! But only for the final crack! Rope drag barely noticeable, with thoughtful ropework. ;-) But easy to get that wrong on this route.
with ZoeP
VS 5a! But only for the final crack! Rope drag barely noticeable, with thoughtful ropework. ;-) But easy to get that wrong on this route.
with ZoeP
homansexual 6 May, 2017 2nd
olddirtydoggy 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S a 4c hs? Really? The route is ok until the last pumpy crack and then the burning starts. Rope drag is an issue but can be managed well. Feet on the layback were nearly touching my hands but fortunately the holds are big.
a 4c hs? Really? The route is ok until the last pumpy crack and then the burning starts. Rope drag is an issue but can be managed well. Feet on the layback were nearly touching my hands but fortunately the holds are big.
ZoeP ?May, 2017 -
Andy Moles 7 Mar, 2017 Solo
dom94 24 Feb, 2017 Lead rpt Already done the direct
Already done the direct
Hidden 24 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
greed178 ??, 2017 Lead
akhughes ??, 2017 -
cragtyke 14 Sep, 2016 2nd
SamP88 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Jonny Walker
with Jonny Walker
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
dangerousoldfool 13 Jul, 2016 2nd dog What a sandbag. HVS surely. Scary fall swing potential on the traverse followed by that crack. My big hands just made for a bigger loss of skin. Gnarly.
with Mike O
What a sandbag. HVS surely. Scary fall swing potential on the traverse followed by that crack. My big hands just made for a bigger loss of skin. Gnarly.
with Mike O
DavidR 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
caradoc 29 May, 2016 2nd O/S Tough! It needs good rope management and the continuation of Chequers Crack is pretty brutal (5a)
with emma v.
Tough! It needs good rope management and the continuation of Chequers Crack is pretty brutal (5a)
with emma v.
Hidden 22 May, 2016 Lead
Flavio 14 May, 2016 Solo O/S
lusonavigator 30 Apr, 2016 Lead β First partner did epic effort to dog up to top but last move. Lead with preplaced gear. Placed last cam at the end of very strenuous upper section. Move from first section to edge also commiting. Very very troublesome ropework. Also had second bail fearing swing. There must be a cleverer way to protect throughout
with aio, Mladen
First partner did epic effort to dog up to top but last move. Lead with preplaced gear. Placed last cam at the end of very strenuous upper section. Move from first section to edge also commiting. Very very troublesome ropework. Also had second bail fearing swing. There must be a cleverer way to protect throughout
with aio, Mladen
Maz J 30 Apr, 2016 Lead
with Simon Jones
with Simon Jones
aio 30 Apr, 2016 2nd
David_Gledson 19 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
with AlanP
with AlanP
Hidden 22 Sep, 2015 2nd
amccann 22 Sep, 2015 Lead β Traverse was the only new bit of climbing to me. Had to be taken off belay on one of the ropes when I got tothe bottom of the crack.
Traverse was the only new bit of climbing to me. Had to be taken off belay on one of the ropes when I got tothe bottom of the crack.
Keenb 19 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf
with Dinger
with Dinger
cameron_hall 23 Aug, 2015 Lead dog The first half was awkward and the upper crack was much steeper and harder than it looked from the ground! I came off above my gear trying to get my weight up over the bulge in the upper crack - my first trad lead fall in years.
with Pete Cawley
The first half was awkward and the upper crack was much steeper and harder than it looked from the ground! I came off above my gear trying to get my weight up over the bulge in the upper crack - my first trad lead fall in years.
with Pete Cawley
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2015 2nd dnf
acollins615 23 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
cdpuk 20 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with JulianB
with JulianB
alicethwaites 2 Apr, 2015 - Tom took big lead fall. I attempted to second but didn't get far.
with Tom Geliot
Tom took big lead fall. I attempted to second but didn't get far.
with Tom Geliot
TBH1994 2 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
The Grist 10 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 2nd
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 12 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S No pushover. Harder than Chequers Buttress IMHO.
with Alex Nicholson
No pushover. Harder than Chequers Buttress IMHO.
with Alex Nicholson
edwards_nicholas 22 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Hard VS. Found myself stuck under the roof crawling to get to the crack. Not very stylish. Second did a lot of complaining about ropes.
Hard VS. Found myself stuck under the roof crawling to get to the crack. Not very stylish. Second did a lot of complaining about ropes.
PennyL 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Pat Dawson
with Pat Dawson
splat2million 15 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Got round the traverse (scary) but too pumped to get on to the crack on the top part and fell then lowered. Too tired to get up it even on second afterwards.
with Chris Braine
Got round the traverse (scary) but too pumped to get on to the crack on the top part and fell then lowered. Too tired to get up it even on second afterwards.
with Chris Braine
will_benfold 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Pintsize 5 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
stuart34 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Loosie
with Loosie
jamesclimbing 14 May, 2014 Lead dog
James Jackson ??, 2014 -
thehugehead 20 Apr, 2013 -
with kmfj
with kmfj
Neil McA 16 Feb, 2013 Lead rpt
with Stan, Jake McAdie
with Stan, Jake McAdie
the power 11 Jan, 2013 2nd well hard
well hard
deacondeacon 11 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
ig248 ??, 2013 2nd
dannyboy83 7 Oct, 2012 Solo O/S
Jake Young 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Josh
with Josh
Becky H 10 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
with Adrian Hampshire
with Adrian Hampshire
Jim Slater 24 May, 2012 Lead rpt
stefie c 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S
ipegg 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S traversed in the crack and rested quite ungracefully in it before finishing
with Gavin Phillips, ipegg
traversed in the crack and rested quite ungracefully in it before finishing
with Gavin Phillips, ipegg
Hidden 21 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Sophie Nunn 3 Dec, 2011 2nd O/S
with Floris
with Floris
Jim Slater 22 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
with Scooby
with Scooby
Dirk Uhlig 4 Oct, 2011 Solo O/S
chedder 1 Oct, 2011 Lead
with luke watts
with luke watts
Rachel Slater 13 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Bart Harris
with Bart Harris
Hidden 21 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
cookacat 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with dunnyg
with dunnyg
Matt Shepherd 17 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
David Chaytor 10 Jun, 2011 TR O/S
AsleepOnBelay 19 May, 2011 Lead O/S Used double ropes and still had major rope drag. Ended up untying from the first rope, a bit messy! Pleasant enough route, but I think doing Chequers Crack and Buttress as seperate routes is more enjoyable.
with David PCC
Used double ropes and still had major rope drag. Ended up untying from the first rope, a bit messy! Pleasant enough route, but I think doing Chequers Crack and Buttress as seperate routes is more enjoyable.
with David PCC
SteveM 13 Nov, 2010 Lead
kitkat78 13 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S Fun fun fun :-)
with SteveM
Fun fun fun :-)
with SteveM
Hidden 18 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Geras 18 Sep, 2010 -
with Nathan S, Phil Gibson
with Nathan S, Phil Gibson
Hidden 10 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Footy564 18 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S sam fell on second, took a swing and cut one of our half ropes :/ . . . . down to outside for a new rope then !
with sam greggory
sam fell on second, took a swing and cut one of our half ropes :/ . . . . down to outside for a new rope then !
with sam greggory
shed_hed 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Bradbury 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2010 2nd
GarethHall 27 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
CGlennie ??, 2010 -
Pelleas 13 Sep, 2009 2nd
with John S., Norman
with John S., Norman
thecurlyone 23 Aug, 2009 Lead dog
with Neil D
with Neil D
Neil D 23 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
mike_hough_uk 8 Aug, 2009 2nd Tricky with ropework
Tricky with ropework
chri55ie 8 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Found the final crack very hard going - very releived to be able to clip in to some in situ gear (after my nut fell out) and rest on it for a while! Rope drag also might the finish very challenging!
Found the final crack very hard going - very releived to be able to clip in to some in situ gear (after my nut fell out) and rest on it for a while! Rope drag also might the finish very challenging!
Darrell Read 13 Jun, 2009 2nd
with 31770
with 31770
Chris Plewa ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2009 2nd
Adam Potter 5 Apr, 2009 2nd
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 24 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
jiles 29 Dec, 2008 2nd O/S
alicia 10 Oct, 2008 2nd
with Toby
with Toby
Mattyk 28 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with alicia
with alicia
alicia 28 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S epic rope drag...
with Anni
epic rope drag...
with Anni
victim of mathematics 17 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Pretty tough. Neither section of the traverse is easy, with a bit of exciting swing potential on both, and the final crack is pretty meaty (even if you like jamming). An excellent route though, with plenty of good, independent climbing.
Pretty tough. Neither section of the traverse is easy, with a bit of exciting swing potential on both, and the final crack is pretty meaty (even if you like jamming). An excellent route though, with plenty of good, independent climbing.
adam carless 17 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S a fun expedition with some awkward ropework.
a fun expedition with some awkward ropework.
JohnH1977 ?Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
Kev Webster 10 Jan, 2008 Lead
richyg ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Trigoc ??, 2008 -
Dan 85 11 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with John
with John
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 2nd dog
Twisty 18 Feb, 2007 2nd O/S Crappy rope work- massive swing potential!
with Graeme Hammond
Crappy rope work- massive swing potential!
with Graeme Hammond
Graeme Hammond 18 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
with Twisty
with Twisty
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Brown ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 5 Nov, 2006 TR dnf
Benjones45_99 8 Sep, 2006 2nd dog
with Rob Embry
with Rob Embry
steve prior ?Apr, 2006 Lead
with Andy C
with Andy C
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
1202alarm ??, 2006 Lead
ChrisBrooke 12 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
with John Inkpen
mattwyles1 ??, 2005 Lead O/S
brownie mike ??, 2005 -
DerwentDiluted 13 Sep, 2004 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
with Nicola Pettit
Mark Stevenson 12 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Pete Johnson
with Pete Johnson
Budge 20 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2003 Lead
zero six ??, 2003 Lead O/S
djking1983 24 Aug, 2002 2nd
Smudge03 24 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2002 2nd
Hidden ??, 2002 -
VPJB ??, 2002 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2001 2nd
Roget 25 Oct, 1997 Solo rpt
Hidden ??, 1997 -
Roget 17 Mar, 1996 Lead O/S
Adrian Eggleton ??, 1995 Lead
with Tim Darlow
with Tim Darlow
mike lawrence? 23 Jul, 1994 -
charlesmfrench 21 May, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
ajtay ??, 1989 -
with Various
with Various
stp 26 Jun, 1985 Solo rpt soloed down
soloed down
julesmckim ??, 1985 Lead
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
Ian Clare ??, 1984 -
Hidden 30 Sep, 1982 Lead
Ian Clare ??, 1982 -
ewar woowar ??, 1982 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 Solo
DonnyDave 20 Aug, 1980 2nd
with Ian Freebie
with Ian Freebie
duncan ??, 1980 Solo
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 18 May, 1975 Lead
rogerskews ??, 1973 -
uphillnow ??, 1970 -
mikej 4 Oct, 1969 Lead
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
Dave Musgrove 16 Jun, 1968 -
mikej 22 May, 1968 Lead
with Wil Hurford
with Wil Hurford
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 31
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set