Rockfax Description
The superb soaring central crack-line is compelling and hard work, but less so than you might be expecting. Big gear needed. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Top 50 Peak Cracks, UK road to wide crack mastery, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Andrew Abraham 12/Nov/17 Lead O/S
timrooker 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S

struggling to remember how to grit

Hidden 27/Oct/17 Solo O/S
rowland penty 14/Oct/17 Lead RP
George Frisby 14/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Amazing route, hard sequence at the start to onsight. Only managed it by watching Rowland. Actually no jams needed, some holds deeper in the crack and lots of laybacking.

with Rowland
Owen Johnson 14/Oct/17 -
manwithacam 08/Oct/17 2nd

classic of its type. Its type being a gritstone HVS crack. Kick out the jams.

with Mark Grist
The Grist 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
Hidden 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
James Smith 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with melty
Hidden 02/Jul/17 2nd
Andypeak 02/Jul/17 2nd
riff156 02/Jul/17 Lead G/U
with Dane
gaz3212 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/17 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 21/May/17 2nd
with cheque
SarahConnor 07/May/17 2nd
with MNC
MNC 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Just hard work!

with Sarah
rajeshwarbisht 06/May/17 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/17 Lead
robgixer 02/Apr/17 2nd
crossleysm 02/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Mar/17 Lead
Georgie25 27/Nov/16 2nd
Keith Swainson 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Burly! Big jams, big cams, big effort, quality.

with Georgie
Hidden 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
James Oswald 20/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Andy Moles
Andy Moles 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with James Oswald
phil64 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

quality grit!

with Andy Bowman
MichaelGallimore 09/Aug/16 Solo O/S
djones66 07/Aug/16 Lead

Powerful and rather intimidating, but high-quality stuff. Take some big cams, and some even bigger ones. Must have been very scary in the pre-cam times.The bit near the top is surprisingly tricky, but not as hard as the first 20 feet.

with Stve mc D
buxtoncoffeelover 31/Jul/16 Lead

Messed up moves above chockstone (crux? - forgot to use my feet!) so downclimbed & rested. Much better/easier with feet!!

with Clare S
slab_happy 31/Jul/16 2nd dog

Hideously dogged.

chrisdjackson 10/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with lewis
Tjogge 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with David Boothroyd
w-watson 15/May/16 Lead
Flavio 15/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/16 2nd O/S
rich_hw 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
D.Russell 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Madeleine
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Heather Osborne 23/Jan/16 2nd

Didn't even second clean, really good jamming practice for me - I couldn't find a way to cheat and layback! Excellent route re-emphasising my need to work on jamming!

the power 22/Nov/15 Lead

Just shite

with neil
Ardo 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S
georgenvk 01/Nov/15 2nd dog
admackie 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

not as hard as i thought it was going to be

with andy
Gudge 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
vigroovian 19/Sep/15 TR O/S

Struggled to start - pretty heavy and committing moves to begin with then some beautiful climbing. Loved this climb - glad i top roped it first as out of jamming practice. Will definitely give it a lead next time :)

with Ellie Cotterill
amccann 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
poeter210 02/Aug/15 Lead dog

Enjoyable but brutal, the move off the ground is quite strenuous for 5a

mattkemp70 ?/Aug/15 2nd
with Sam
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Louishmouis 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
soph 04/May/15 2nd rpt
with Clare Jane carter, Becky Lounds
belay bunny turned bad 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with soph, CJC
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 2nd O/S
clairejane ?/May/15 2nd
with Sophie
ashtond6 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Palmer 12/Feb/15 2nd
Palmer 12/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 12/Feb/15 -
the power 12/Feb/15 Lead
with Andy
dr_botnik 12/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
hailtryfan ?/Nov/14 2nd
with Andrew Porter
DavidPC 28/Oct/14 2nd
with Johnny D
tsjx 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Dave C, John Mc
soph 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Tony Stone
TobyA 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tom R
PeteH 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Fox
rurp 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic. No 6 cam and big bros placed for the first time!

with bill farmer
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Satoshi Kimura
EeFu 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
Kirill 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

HVS in Curbar grades.

with EeFu
R0bbie 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Taba
dannyboy83 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Floris
Matt Cooke 26/May/14 2nd rpt
with Rosh
deacondeacon 22/May/14 Lead O/S

Green, wet lower crack and then raining for the rest. Quite bold if you haven't saved a big cam for the top half. Great route though.

nimajneb ?/Feb/14 Lead
kyaizawa 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie Cheng
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
madasten 21/Dec/13 2nd

Was bloomin windy!

with Gaz
gazfellows 21/Dec/13 Lead

Cracking route, proper old school HVS. 5 stars !!

with Billy
Matt Cooke 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
valentinesbabe 05/Oct/13 TR dog

And oh my god did I have to work this one. Came off the burly start moves about six times before finally getting it clean. The initial jam just being a little too sloppy to feel really comfortable and have grit rash to prove it :D The rest of the climb is great with some really nice moves and it was definitely worth perservering.

charley 05/Oct/13 2nd RP

Tough start, especially when there's cam blocking the hidden holds in the crack...

with JackD, Ange, Kev
Jackwd 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Just get on it! Not as hard/imposing as it looks.

Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Dan Geh 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant stuff! Climbed surprisingly elegantly.

tgeh 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S

amazing climb, standard HVS and standard 5a

with dan geh
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd
nick ferro 06/Apr/13 -
Gambit 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Barney
dionisys ??/2013 2nd
with pat dawson, vanderz
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Vincej ??/2013 2nd
with Nevil
patsaunders ?/Oct/12 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Tom Reed, Nick Mitchell
Reedymc 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nick Mitchell, Tony Holdsworth
will9911 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah little
ranga 11/Aug/12 2nd
stuaart 21/Jul/12 2nd

Neil led. Quality route---must lead it myself next time.

with Dave Payne, Neil Redgrave
bwestwood 25/Jun/12 2nd
pie_eater_pete 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
harold walmsley 06/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Struggled unexpectedly on the start

with Colin Struthers
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob Windsor ?/Nov/11 Lead
mark20 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
marcoleptic 13/Oct/11 Lead dog

Thought I was quite good at jamming until today. Took 2 rests at 2M then managed to grind it out to the finish. Thought I might have to aid it at one point. Oh the shame!

with Tommo
Hidden 17/Aug/11 2nd β
keith Lonsdale 02/Aug/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 02/Aug/11 Lead

A superb JoeBrown classic,can't understand why Iv'e left it so long.Beware limestone crimpers :)

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead
TerryLines 02/Jul/11 2nd
Mr. K 10/May/11 Lead O/S
petellis 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
jkarran 02/Apr/11 Lead

An embarrassing fight! This can it seems be done quite smoothly with sufficient ability

with Aly, Pete
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
disturbed_one51 26/Mar/11 Lead
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer, Rob Adie
Hidden 14/Mar/11 2nd dog
bigie bob 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
DeanD ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Jonathan Hall 16/Nov/10 2nd
crispyboy 14/Nov/10 2nd
with inchley
stuart34 14/Nov/10 Lead dog
hamish2016 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Beth UNUMC
Diggler 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Calder
Calder 06/Nov/10 2nd
with Mark
Abevan 02/Oct/10 2nd
with james walker
Birdo 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S


The Mountain Goat 02/Oct/10 2nd dog
joese7en 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Martin Haworth
jtree03 25/Jul/10 Lead
with Tony, Brother Al
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
helios 09/May/10 2nd

V impressive lead by Matt. Found this v tiring on the arms!

with Mathew Cantrill
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead dog
burto 15/Apr/10 Lead β
with fergus, lyndsey
Fergus Cuthill 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

brutal but excellent and essential. The lower crack ate part of my hand and lots of dripping blood was involved :o abseiled to get gear but had to climb back up after forgetting to pick up my helmet which i took off to enter the upper crack. Small wires would have bee useful above here if i hadn't forgotten them.

RM199 ??/2010 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2010 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
david morse 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with steve+cliff
Pete Graham 26/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Ketu 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
GrantB 12/Sep/09 Lead
mattyork2 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ed woods 18/Aug/09 2nd
with Adam
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
nige 05/Apr/09 2nd
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Nige
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Good stuff, traditional fist-jamming :) Left a few grazes on my hand...

with Neil Furniss
hrgcb ??/2009 Lead
with Joe Prinold
Hidden ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Bristoldave 18/Dec/08 Lead β
with Helen
nadeem 03/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Second Lead

Andrew Sloan 16/Nov/08 2nd dog

What a ball buster!

Martin Haworth 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
btc 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Harper
Ben Harper 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with ben cole
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/08 Solo
Fraser13 ?/Jun/08 -
OffshoreAndy 22/May/08 2nd
with Works Simon
EdShep 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch and Graham
Pilch 10/May/08 2nd O/S

Graham led, hard to get started, fist jam then reach into the crack for holds,doesnt ease of , although less sustained.

with Graham and Ed
mje1398 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Emily S + John M
stephenhartley ??/2008 2nd
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
jimbonfire 15/Oct/07 Lead O/S
colin milton 10/Oct/07 2nd
with pep
Chris Ellis 01/Sep/07 2nd
with Nige Shaw
Oliver Sherman 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd
adam carless 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S

The first 10ft were a real battle, apparently I missed some good holds hidden in the crack. After that it was great. A true Curbar style climb.

Nicos 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd
John Marsland 07/Oct/06 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

goi.ashmore 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
fizzy_elephant 23/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with stu
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Stig 27/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Only just 'clean onsight'!

with Karl Walton
SR1970 ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Jorge
Hidden ?/May/06 Solo
dan gibson 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 16/Apr/06 Lead
with Dan
cragdan 16/Apr/06 2nd
with Dan Gibson
Hidden ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 23/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Ram MkiV ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 06/Oct/02 Lead rpt
with Chris Howard
duncan 05/Oct/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
shoulders 12/May/02 Lead
with joules
Alastair Hudson 03/Mar/02 Lead
with Mia Stacey
Hidden 15/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Jun/01 2nd
Hidden 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Rich Malcolm 15/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 14/Dec/97 Lead O/S
with Rowland Barker
ste_d 30/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 30/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden 03/Nov/96 Lead
nokishatov 16/May/96 2nd O/S
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
roncaves 28/May/94 Lead
with Ian Smith
daprince ?/Jun/92 -
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Roget 13/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with colin
Neil R 13/May/90 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden ??/1990 -
John Marsland 30/Apr/89 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden 05/Nov/88 2nd
Neil McA 13/Sep/86 2nd O/S
with Martin Wilson, Roy Ruddle
charlesmfrench 18/May/86 2nd O/S
Tom V ??/1986 -
stp 02/Oct/83 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Feb/82 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Martin Bennett 15/Oct/81 -
with JD
Andy Fielding ??/1981 2nd
babymoac 01/Jun/80 Lead
with MTW
Brian Wilderspin 06/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Dave Winter
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/80 Solo
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead
with Dave Booth
Nigel Bond 23/May/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Hidden 17/Dec/77 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/77 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/77 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Glynne Andrew
clanger ??/1972 -
Dave Musgrove 11/Oct/70 -

Plus several other routes on Froggat and Curbar

Hidden 26/May/68 2nd
mikej 01/Sep/67 Lead
with John Lee
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 60
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set