Altitude 292m a.s.l
Epic day at Curbar, complete with inversion and quality routes © joese7en
Curbar the Taskmaster has long had a reputation for fierce routes at solid grades and with good reason. Everything here tends to be intimidating, strenuous and high in the grade - soft slabby stuff is a thin on the ground! Known as 'the Cloggy of Grit', many of the routes attack tough cracks up walls that are generally steeper than those found on the other edges. Despite the stiff grades Curbar holds a set of routes as fine as any on grit. Classics such as The Peapod, L'Horla, Elder Crack, Right Eliminate, Moon Walk and Profit of Doom should be on any serious grit climber's ticklist. There are few offerings for climbers looking for lower grade climbs but P.M.C.1 is one and is probably the most popular climb on the crag.
The edge overlooks the villages of Curbar and Calver. Above Curbar village is a Pay and Display car park just east of Curbar Gap. This car park can also be reached from a turning off the A625, just north of Gardom's. From here a short walk along the cliff top leads to the Eliminates Wall. There are a few free parking spots on the road below Curbar Gap but these are often full at weekends. The cliff can also be reached from Froggatt by heading south, gently uphill to the left end of the cliff, a couple of minutes away. The serious stuff of the business end is another 10 minutes walk.
A number of adders have been seen around Curbar this year, some of which have behaved quite aggressively towards people. They are often very well camouflaged so it's worth keeping an eye out when moving into new areas and picking up kit as a bite, although not life-threatening to most healthy adults can still be nasty.Updated by UKC: 9th March
Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
|Bouldering grades need changing in line with the new Rockfax guide 2014 from font grades to V grades.|
Christheclimber - 07/May/14
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