Rockfax Description
The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although those impatient individuals who can't wait to get at the main event, often climb the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory making suitable use of the left-hand arete. Many pre-place the gear in the groove on abseil which reduces the commitment and possibly the grade. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, 20 Routes For 2017, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Duncan Campbell 30/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Fat Boy wanted to have a go and after he fell off I figured I may as well have a look. Managed to place the cam in the groove but fell trying to move out of the wide bridge position I was in. Would like to come back for it but I so rarely trad climb on grit it could easily not happen for a long time

Hidden 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/17 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 02/Jan/17 Lead dnf

up to the pre plased gear a few times with varying degrease off success fell of going for the top hold first try, left foot to low

FloTilley 27/Dec/16 2nd β
with James
Hidden 31/Oct/16 Lead O/S
James Oakes 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Top five trad expirience. Ended up with left hand in the runner slot but contrive a method of getting to the top. Get in!

Neal Jobling 13/Apr/16 TR dnf
with Andy Burr
ferdia 25/Mar/16 Lead

thought i'd give it a go placing gear on lead. managed to panic-fill the finger slot and so had one fall going for the top. amazing climbing. wild moves. think I'd like to do it again. really strenuous placing gear on lead - e5?

James Thacker ??/2016 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/14 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
The old James turnbull 26/Sep/13 Lead

pre placed the gear and them fell on it quite a few times to say the least before doing it all clean. awsome, but hard, till you do it.

with drew
Apharri 07/Sep/13 Lead RP

Really ard

with Jim Gayler
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead
Hannes B 09/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with Tom
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hannes B 21/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Mike, Tom
Hannes B 17/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Emlyn
highlux 11/Mar/11 Lead RP

Fell on onsight go (with purple metolius preplaced), then worked crux on top rope. Returned 3 days later and redpointed second go. Super classic & with awesome movement. Found that purple metolius fitted better than any of my nuts would in key placement.

with Martin Veale
PeteH 08/Mar/11 TR dnf

I was just pleased to even get to the crux! Crux itself is brutal, and would be very hairy without having preplaced the gear in the groove...

with Mark Watson, Chris Fox
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
malx ?/Mar/10 Lead G/U
dannyboy83 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Didn't bother placing a wire as that would get in the way of handhold, felt about E4

with Nils
JulesV 23/Sep/09 Lead dog

Fell going for top after placing wire on lead

with Eszter
DaveFidler ?/Jul/09 TR dnf
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S

Hint: Brass offset

with Mark Tolver
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Tom Randall
lx 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S

pure onsight, placed wire on lead, (without knowing the size), so will claim the E5 grade!

with fat boy
mattyork2 24/Jun/07 TR dnf
with Olly Pollard
redjerry ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Josh Horniak
Jerry Handren ?/May/06 Lead O/S

used a Purple TCU in the key placement, hard to place but seemed good when I rapped down to get the gear after the ascent.

Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Gus 11/Dec/05 Lead rpt

pre placed wire, defo E5 placing the wire on lead

dominic lee ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Pete O'Donnovan
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead β

Pre-placed the wire, having tried it ground-up and been unable to.

shoulders ??/2001 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/1999 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Aug/98 Lead rpt
with Al Willoner
Mike Owen 17/May/98 Lead O/S

Always wanted to do this since the black and white photos of Bob Berzins way back in the 70's.

with Elaine Owen
nokishatov 16/May/96 2nd dog
ste_d 16/May/96 Lead O/S
with mik
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Cowflinger 26/May/92 TR
morganator 12/May/91 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 28/Sep/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
ukb & bmc shark 23/Sep/85 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/84 2nd
Hidden ?/May/84 Lead β
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/81 Lead G/U

First E4...

with Chez
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead β

Placed the wire on the lead. Had previously followed Ed Woof up it.

with Steve Warwick
petemeads 05/Sep/78 Lead

With the knowledge of how to manufacture/place the vital runner, having watched Steve Bancroft's failed attempt and the magazine pictures of the Berzins brothers' ascent for guidance. Still hard!

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 15
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set