16m.

Rockfax Description
The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although those impatient individuals who can't wait to get at the main event, often climb the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory making suitable use of the left-hand arete. Many pre-place the gear in the groove on abseil which reduces the commitment and possibly the grade. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Boy 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb.
Frank the Husky 5 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing...
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mattgrange 31 Mar 2nd dnf Managed to get all the way to the groove sequence but then totally shut down. Ben crushed it second go with preplaced crux gear, awesome effort and well done him. Stonking route but so 'ard, John Allen is a legend.
Managed to get all the way to the groove sequence but then totally shut down. Ben crushed it second go with preplaced crux gear, awesome effort and well done him. Stonking route but so 'ard, John Allen is a legend.
JCAshman 30 Mar Lead RP Maybe best grit route far? Brilliant moves up and into the groove and good gear the whole way. Took few goes to find the right foot sequence.
Maybe best grit route far? Brilliant moves up and into the groove and good gear the whole way. Took few goes to find the right foot sequence.
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
F.Wish 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Placed all gear on lead
Placed all gear on lead
Duncan Campbell 30 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Fat Boy wanted to have a go and after he fell off I figured I may as well have a look. Managed to place the cam in the groove but fell trying to move out of the wide bridge position I was in. Would like to come back for it but I so rarely trad climb on grit it could easily not happen for a long time
Fat Boy wanted to have a go and after he fell off I figured I may as well have a look. Managed to place the cam in the groove but fell trying to move out of the wide bridge position I was in. Would like to come back for it but I so rarely trad climb on grit it could easily not happen for a long time
Hidden 30 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 2 Jan, 2017 Lead dnf up to the pre plased gear a few times with varying degrease off success fell of going for the top hold first try, left foot to low
up to the pre plased gear a few times with varying degrease off success fell of going for the top hold first try, left foot to low
FloTilley 27 Dec, 2016 2nd β
JamesTurnbull97 27 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
James Oakes 6 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Top five trad expirience. Ended up with left hand in the runner slot but contrive a method of getting to the top. Get in!
with Fragmod
Top five trad expirience. Ended up with left hand in the runner slot but contrive a method of getting to the top. Get in!
with Fragmod
Fragmod 6 Oct, 2016 2nd
Neal Jobling 13 Apr, 2016 TR dnf
with Andy Burr
with Andy Burr
ferdia 25 Mar, 2016 Lead thought i'd give it a go placing gear on lead. managed to panic-fill the finger slot and so had one fall going for the top. amazing climbing. wild moves. think I'd like to do it again. really strenuous placing gear on lead - e5?
thought i'd give it a go placing gear on lead. managed to panic-fill the finger slot and so had one fall going for the top. amazing climbing. wild moves. think I'd like to do it again. really strenuous placing gear on lead - e5?
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?May, 2014 Lead
mike mo ??, 2014 -
The old James turnbull 26 Sep, 2013 Lead pre placed the gear and them fell on it quite a few times to say the least before doing it all clean. awsome, but hard, till you do it.
with drew
pre placed the gear and them fell on it quite a few times to say the least before doing it all clean. awsome, but hard, till you do it.
with drew
Apharri 7 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Really ard
with Jim Gayler
Really ard
with Jim Gayler
Hidden 11 Nov, 2012 Lead
Hannes B 9 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf
with Tom
with Tom
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hannes B 21 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
with Mike, Tom
with Mike, Tom
Hannes B 17 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
with al123
with al123
highlux 11 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Fell on onsight go (with purple metolius preplaced), then worked crux on top rope. Returned 3 days later and redpointed second go. Super classic & with awesome movement. Found that purple metolius fitted better than any of my nuts would in key placement.
with Martin Veale
Fell on onsight go (with purple metolius preplaced), then worked crux on top rope. Returned 3 days later and redpointed second go. Super classic & with awesome movement. Found that purple metolius fitted better than any of my nuts would in key placement.
with Martin Veale
PeteH 8 Mar, 2011 TR dnf I was just pleased to even get to the crux! Crux itself is brutal, and would be very hairy without having preplaced the gear in the groove...
with highlux, Chris Fox
I was just pleased to even get to the crux! Crux itself is brutal, and would be very hairy without having preplaced the gear in the groove...
with highlux, Chris Fox
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
malx ?Mar, 2010 Lead G/U
hamer89 31 Jan, 2010 Lead RP pre placed wire
pre placed wire
dannyboy83 16 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Didn't bother placing a wire as that would get in the way of handhold, felt about E4
with garburn
Didn't bother placing a wire as that would get in the way of handhold, felt about E4
with garburn
JulesV 23 Sep, 2009 Lead dog Fell going for top after placing wire on lead
with Eszter
Fell going for top after placing wire on lead
with Eszter
DaveFidler ?Jul, 2009 TR dnf
stevebarratt ??, 2009 Lead O/S Hint: Brass offset
with Mark Tolver
Hint: Brass offset
with Mark Tolver
Toby Dunn ?Aug, 2008 Lead RP
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
lx 29 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S pure onsight, placed wire on lead, (without knowing the size), so will claim the E5 grade!
with fat boy
pure onsight, placed wire on lead, (without knowing the size), so will claim the E5 grade!
with fat boy
mattyork2 24 Jun, 2007 TR dnf
with Olly Pollard
with Olly Pollard
redjerry ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
with Josh Horniak
with Josh Horniak
Jerry Handren ?May, 2006 Lead O/S used a Purple TCU in the key placement, hard to place but seemed good when I rapped down to get the gear after the ascent.
used a Purple TCU in the key placement, hard to place but seemed good when I rapped down to get the gear after the ascent.
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Gus 11 Dec, 2005 Lead rpt pre placed wire, defo E5 placing the wire on lead
pre placed wire, defo E5 placing the wire on lead
dominic lee ?Aug, 2005 Lead rpt
with Pete O'Donnovan
with Pete O'Donnovan
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead β Pre-placed the wire, having tried it ground-up and been unable to.
Pre-placed the wire, having tried it ground-up and been unable to.
shoulders ??, 2001 2nd
Hidden ??, 2000 -
pipof747 ??, 2000 Lead O/S
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 1999 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16 Aug, 1998 Lead rpt
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Mike Owen 17 May, 1998 Lead O/S Always wanted to do this since the black and white photos of Bob Berzins way back in the 70's.
with Elaine Owen
Always wanted to do this since the black and white photos of Bob Berzins way back in the 70's.
with Elaine Owen
debsb ??, 1998 Lead G/U
with Pal Hoyem
with Pal Hoyem
Mike_d78 16 May, 1996 2nd dog
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 16 May, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd β
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Cowflinger 26 May, 1992 TR
with sharpie
with sharpie
morganator 12 May, 1991 Lead dnf
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Hidden 28 Sep, 1989 Lead
Hidden ??, 1989 -
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
UKB Shark 23 Sep, 1985 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden 16 Jun, 1984 2nd
Hidden ?May, 1984 Lead β
Andy Nicholson ?Sep, 1981 Lead G/U First E4...
with Chez
First E4...
with Chez
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead β
petemeads 5 Sep, 1978 Lead With the knowledge of how to manufacture/place the vital runner, having watched Steve Bancroft's failed attempt and the magazine pictures of the Berzins brothers' ascent for guidance. Still hard!
With the knowledge of how to manufacture/place the vital runner, having watched Steve Bancroft's failed attempt and the magazine pictures of the Berzins brothers' ascent for guidance. Still hard!
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set