Rockfax Description
40m. A massive steepening line that starts up the right-hand side of a slab. © Rockfax

Ticklists: El Chorro: Frontales Medias and Las Encantadas 8's and upper 7's.

derekb 22/Feb Lead dnf

Tried in mistake for El Orejazo (need to use reading glasses for guidebook).

with Sean
jonleighton 17/Jan Lead RP

Interesting comments on this, I didn't think it seemed too unclear where the line goes. I didn't use the flake for hands but did stick my feet out left. Felt 7c the way I did it. To be honest, I thought the route was a bit underwhelming, especially compared to Honk Down. I felt like there was loads of really easy climbing, then a couple of nails moves, then some good jugs to the top. I prefer something a bit more balanced...

with Emily C
Ricky Rocks 14/Dec/16 Lead RP

Super big, brilliant line 2nd go tricky crux..

KKilroy 29/Mar/16 Lead RP

Fun route which ever way you want to go. Recommend the direct route for the best moves. A link up into honk down wud be cool and very possible.

with Spooner
Dan724 15/Mar/16 Lead RP

Jumped off on the onsight as i ended up really close to the 7a and thought i must be off route. Went bolt to bolt to warm up on the direct version and did it second go. Went totally direct through the overhang but threw my left toe into the big hole and climbed the crux totally statically with a heel-toe cam. Seemed ridiculous not to as the foothold is easily within reach of the bolts through the overhang. Felt 7b+ ish. Totally agree with Jacob's comments; essentially their are too many lines on one piece of rock-3 lines all within a 2m radius of each other which makes it all rather confusing as to what's 'in' and what's not. At the end of the day though, each variation is really good!

with Sebastian Andersson
jacobjlloyd 07/Feb/16 Lead

This has three versions, all depending on how you use the leftward trending flake and hole by the crux clip. If it is elimated completely, 7c+. If used just at the start (to clip) and for feet, 7c. This is the most common option, oddly. If used for hands and feet (I can clip from the good hold used before moving back right) and the route followed on naturally, then I would suggest 7a+, and probably the best in the area. It makes sense to use a hold within the natural line, that you can clip from, and will use for feet anyway, as part of the route. So lets just call it 7a+ with a 7c/+ eliminate version. Its a shame to make such a proud and natural line an eliminate with an isolated crux instead of a flowing continuously brilliant route with no defined crux at all.

with John Scarrott
Ellis Butler-Barker 28/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Dom Taylor, Tegan Consol
Hidden ??/2016 -
Wolfi_H 09/Nov/15 Lead O/S

did not the originalk way but traversed left to the last meters of El Orejaza at begin of hard part (bulge), thus creating a great an logic 6c+

funsized 19/Dec/14 Lead RP

Intrigued by the comments and logs for this one. I'm not sure I agree with you fully Jake, I think its pretty clear where the line goes and if you do deviate round by the El Orejazo lower off its should be fairly obvious that you have gone off route. However it has lots of O/S logs and I certainly agree that the actual line seems very hard for the grade and was definitely a notch harder than Calvo Potrun or Sandokan (the only other two I have done at the grade). The local guide and the Dave Munilla guide both give this 7c+ however I can't really say, having not tried a confirmed 7c+. But it really is a pretty sweet (if mentally tiring!) route. BAM

Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ??/2013 Lead RP

2nd go

with Jenny
JulesV 26/Feb/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Shauna Cunningham
jacobjlloyd 07/Jan/12 Lead dog

This puzzled me. It was alright to climb around the difficulties, but going with the line proper was mad hard for me. Maybe i missed something obvious. Either its not as hard as all that but deviates a bit, or its escapable and fierce.

with Josh
Toby Dunn ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Cassidy 28/Dec/10 Lead RP

2nd go, slimey, slimey humid conditions

with Henners
dannyboy83 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Alice
lx ?/Dec/05 Lead
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High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
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Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
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