Rockfax Description
30m. The wall just to the left of a pinnacle leaning up against the base of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50.

Hidden ?/Feb Lead
MichealMurphy 24/Jan Lead O/S
with Liz
LuapRagas 12/Jan Lead dog

Tricky start but then was pulling through fine. At the crux middle section I went right...and made the mistake of continuing up. Missed a clip and then was insanely run out. Couldn't make the next bolt (quickdraw was in, but I couldn't get the rope in the draw!). Took a massive 7-bolt whipper as a result. Found the crux section really difficult, not least due to unfriendly bolting - but the rest of the climb was lovely. Be advised though: skipping clips on this route is a very bad idea unless you have a serious wingspan!

CMoore 08/Jan Lead O/S
John Kettle 08/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan Lead
Hidden 31/Dec/16 -
DaveHo 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Charlie H
mollymcleod 16/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Pinged off start lots, TR to 2nd bolt. Super sustained to top; single most difficult thing I've led, head game exposure with my exhaustion. Only did with 60m... so descended (in dark) in 2 pitches using middle maillon

with Taysy
notthatcolerobertson 15/Dec/16 Lead O/S
stuartf 09/Dec/16 Lead RP

Third attempt. Rested first go after spending too long working out where to go. Messed up second attempt after getting sequence wrong.

buxtoncoffeelover 20/Nov/16 2nd

Stiff start (polished), strenuous middle third (1rest), stroll to the top. Excellent route throughout

with Californian Rick
Nevil 10/Apr/16 2nd
Curly Rich 10/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden 10/Apr/16 Lead
hervenuttall ?/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
cwalsh121 20/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Megamomaniac ??/2016 TR
Owen Johnson ??/2016 Lead dog
Edward Kwong 30/Dec/15 Lead β

Delicate start, fun warm up. Followed the crack right with the bigger holds instead of direct...

Matti Puckridge 30/Dec/15 Lead
zcsharp 04/May/15 Lead G/U

Under estimated the start and took a silly slip, but all good afterwards.

steve_gibbs 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 TR β
samkat 05/Apr/15 TR dog
with sue hazel, Bex
waynem1985 ?/Apr/15 Lead
dom94 24/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with milena
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead rpt
KKilroy ??/2015 Lead O/S
Ian MK 26/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Despite the comments below and the aggressively scratched 38M at the base of the climb. My new 70M rope was more than long enough to get up and down and for my partner to safely top rope the route? I also found the RockFax description to be correct though maybe it implies that this route is immediately left of the panicle. Great route - Don't be put off if you only have a 70M rope!!

with Anna
Anna Maykova 26/Dec/14 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 01/Dec/14 TR O/S
chrismadar 23/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't make the last clip. Will be back next year to get clean.

Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S
CarolineH 12/Jan/14 Lead RP

First red point.

with Dave
TraverseKing 26/Dec/13 -
Fragmod 09/Nov/13 Lead
partz 27/Mar/13 Lead dog

Shat my pants

Alex Wade 27/Mar/13 Lead dog

after jumping on the wrong route and dogging up 'La Ley Innata', and being the end of a full day gave way to poor climbing. would like to repeat.

mattgrange ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this

tprebs 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Siobhan Vye
Kevster 28/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Mattlamb90 26/Dec/12 Lead RP
luke384 26/Dec/12 Lead β
with matty
johnpuddephatt 22/Dec/12 TR O/S

Too hot to clip.

with Ryan Mole
RyMole 22/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Rockfax 2008 guide has descriptions of this climb and Double Edge swapped. "Varied climbing right of mid-height tree" applies to this climb. Excellent and sustained climbing. ROUTE IS LONGER THAN 35M so expect to abseil from the second bolt (in situ tat when I was there) on a 70m rope.

jiggerypokery 18/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 18/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 03/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with orange craig
craig naylor 03/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Jonathan
Julia Chatterton 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Haemish
Marq 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

1 rest

Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
krasavenko 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Not going direct and not having a big span means you have to run it out... which was a bit traumatising

with Tom E
allyrocke 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Nice line, bolts a bit reachy.

with Thomas Henderson Schwartz
katiep 20/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Avoided going direct in the middle which meant I missed a clip.

with Callan
Qisheng Xie 09/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Saunders
Paul Bowen 31/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Ian JL 09/Apr/10 Lead rpt
matthewjames 23/Mar/10 Lead dnf

I guess I was tired from Double Edge but this felt very hard. I got really pumped about half way and then dogged up a few more clips before calling it a day.

with Cherie McCormack, Mike Byrne, Matt Cooke, John Cheung
tomhull 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
dmoir 22/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Dan and Lauren
dannyboy83 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
jacobjlloyd 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S

hard start leads to fun long technical sequences.

with Laura Capelletti, amy horton, Ed Shaw
Cheshire Dave 28/Nov/09 Lead

Brilliant climbing. Necky start, and couple of tricky clips in the middle section (bolts straight up, line goes right, and back left highter up). Top section is lovely romp up huge holds. 40m? rope needed, or have to use situ maillon on 2nd bolt to reach ground. The big clue is the 38m! scratched on rock at bottom!

with Chris
Andy Moles 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
Joris.Roulleau ?/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Took a series of falls between second last and last bolt. Gets a lot harder there when you've had time to get a bit pumped already. I'll come back to the bastard!

burto 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with hertha
metal arms 15/Nov/08 -
Hidden 19/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/01 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/01 2nd
shoulders 24/Jan/01 AltLd
with tanya, mart
skygodley 19/Dec/00 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Nov/00 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jan/00 -
goi.ashmore 13/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Hidden 10/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 14/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set