Rockfax Description
Justifiably famous. An unrelenting pitch up the central line of tufas that sports a hard start and a pulse-enhancing finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50, El Chorro Wishlist Easter 2015, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, El Chorro dreams 7a and above, Spain, Spring 2019.

dan gibson 16/Feb Lead RP

Makinodromo is a great crag. Lourdes is a route of quality and history. Make the pilgrimage, but make sure you do more than just this if you can...

Quarryboy 12/Feb Lead dog

"Boi It's a F***ing line"

with Aaron Caldwell
Hidden 01/Feb Lead dnf
WilliamRupp 31/Jan Lead dog

Got everything on this with two rests

Matt Cooke 23/Dec/18 Lead RP
kieranor ?/Dec/18 Lead RP

Yes ! Brilliant, funky climbing with tricky, powerful crux section (which can be tamed with good beta) and a selection of kneebar rests... stunning route and an amazing wall... Felt really easy once the beta was sorted which is a good sign for trying harder things

Adam24B 19/Feb/18 Lead dog

Had a play on this with mike after putting the draws in, decided to concentrate on a more accessible project and come back to this another time. Amazing route!

M_Robinson 19/Feb/18 Lead dog
with Adam24B
jonleighton 27/Jan/18 Lead dog

Onsight attempt... wasn't even close really, though I did have to put the clips in. Was going to have another go but the clips got taken out, maybe another day.

with Emily C
Alex N-R 24/Jan/18 Lead RP

Mega climbing. Hard work in the heat yesterday. Bivied under the crag on a goat piss mattress... Went first go in cooler temps.

with Huaraz crew
shaunhumphreys 07/Jan/18 Lead RP

Get in! Did once to warm up/remember the moves then sent next go, had to wait behind a local while he used the big rest for the route to the left which took ages and felt haaard, bloody psyched tho!

benkelsey 07/Jan/18 Lead dog

Shaun sent on the cold Sunday, while I worked it, taking a kind of ground up approach. Came back on Tuesday after heavy rain to find it goping. I've been given the taste and had it rudely taken away as it never stopped seeping. Respect to Shaun for cruising it, I'll be back for this have no doubt.

with shaunhumphreys, Shaun Humphreys
spidermonkey09 22/Nov/17 Lead dog

Fair to say this is steep. Just had a play at the end of a long day, saw enough to see that it goes but would need a few days of work. Think the fitness would come from just trying it. Did bouldering start second go, crux section and top section ok with a lot of yarding inbetween. Top section is wild and bloody scary!

spidey 01/May/17 TR dnf

Checked it out. Such a cool route, needs more than a couple of days to dry due to seepage after heavy rain.

with Hazel
shaunhumphreys 07/Feb/17 Lead dog

Got through the crux and fluffed it at the top on my last go before leaving chorro by making a few silly mistakes! Gutted, and an amazing route, definitely coming back for this in the future!

Mat Welsh 23/Jan/17 Lead dog

OS attempt finished reasonably high up one clip below the hole rest. Climbed it clip to clip from there other than past the last clip where I took 3 lobs off the last blocky hold staring at the chains - and then discovered a sinker behind the block ! Awesome tufa line.

Frances Bensley 08/Jan/17 Lead RP

Really happy to get this done, second go as I managed to punt off the top on my flash attempt! Thanks Dave for all the beta.

shaunhumphreys 31/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Tried twice then once half-heartedly, felt fucked and tough, managed to get a sequence to the hole sorted didn't try top section in the end, pulleys feel fucked in multiple fingers so probably time to have a break!

with Ted
will smith11 29/Dec/16 Lead β


with Ted kingsnorth , Frances Bensley
sev 25/Oct/16 Lead RP

Fell off the onsight high up, 2nd go. there's an almost lie down rest in a hole after the crux. It's so bloody long!

Dan724 03/Mar/16 Lead RP

Second try today. Had 3 pretty terrible sessions on it previously where I kept doing silly things like trying to knee-bar with the wrong leg and slipping off during no hands rests! Went pretty easily today with all the beta sorted despite the intense heat and bleeding fingers. Psyched to do it without a kneepad having borrowed one on my first session only to return padless with many of the rests too painful/slippery to use.

with Justin Rawnsley, Roland Schmitt
Cailean Harker 20/Jan/16 Lead RP

Absolutely amazing climbing. Dropped the onsight with my hand an inch from the finish hold. I blame the dodgy tick marks. Fired it off 2nd go. Brilliant way to end an amazing week in El Chorro. I will be back.

Ram MkiV 09/Jan/16 Lead RP

Brilliant. Felt pretty robbed on the flash - right hand got stuck in slot as i went for throw move to juggy hole! Happy to settle for 2nd go though

Hidden 03/Jan/16 Lead O/S
climbomaniac 13/Apr/15 Lead dog

Had falls at the two crux sections, but just wanted to check it out. What an absolutely magnificent climb!! Never climbed anything like it! Def want to come back for the redpoint!!!

drcorbasisgod 06/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Marc Weisner
Tophe 10/Feb/15 Lead rpt
nathanlee 05/Jan/15 Lead RP

Yessss! One off the lifetine list! 2nd redders. This is why you come to spain!

with Jack Lawledge, goli
gurumed 05/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Got half way up, then couldn't get back on. What a route.

with Sam
JBO 19/Feb/14 Lead dog

Incredible route. Managed all the moves fairly easily but couldn't imagine linking it all without finding some better rests... Need to get cannier on tufa.

CharlotteGarden1 30/Dec/13 Lead RP
with James Garden, cliffrad
James Marshall 26/Dec/13 Lead RP

Fantastic, especially the top which I dropped on my previous attempt.

with Blaize from Canada
atapper21 06/Feb/13 Lead RP

Beautiful line,it's baffling if you are not fit enough for a good onsight attempt, however after working it the sequence really falls into place

KKilroy 01/Feb/13 Lead RP
with Emma Clarke
J.Wells 20/Dec/12 Lead RP
with liam
Hidden 20/Dec/12 Lead RP
Dave Bond 26/Jan/12 Lead RP
with Christie whitehill
Hidden 10/Jan/12 Lead RP
Glyn 18/Dec/11 Lead RP

Amazing! Clipped chains just as sun was setting. Third team 8a of the day, sport climbing does'nt get much better!. 2nd rpt..never thought it would go today. just about slapped my way through first crux, stayed in rest for 10min then held it together at the top

Luke Brooks 18/Dec/11 Lead RP
dannyboy83 13/Dec/11 Lead RP
with Martin
barni 12/Dec/11 Lead dog
mwatson ?/Dec/11 Lead dog

Excellent route just didn't fit the rests

Georgina Brooke ?/Apr/11 TR dnf

i moved on this route, bitches

jamiefoxen ?/Jan/10 AltLd dog

"onle up half way, the octopus"

with MonkeyDawson, bob foster
MonkeyDawson ?/Jan/10 AltLd dog

Only up to half way...the octopus!

with Jamie, Bob Foster
david potts 19/Dec/09 Lead RP

In the cloud with fleece and hat on. great route.

Ed Booth 28/Mar/09 Lead dnf

It was raining and some spanish guys had the clips in so had an onsight burn. Got to just below the central big formations. Was laughing to much to take it seriously. This would go with a bit more knowledge and time. Holds are huge!

Cassidy 31/Mar/05 Lead RP
with Tiso Pete
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Apr/01 Lead β

flashed with ace beta from Joe. Brilliant but lots of good shake-outs

with Joe le Sage
Tom Briggs 02/Apr/98 Lead RP

1st F8a

with Dave Ferguson
Eduardo Martinez 01/Feb/94 Lead RP

One of my first 8as when Tufas were new to climbing. A route that changed sport climbing and was the most coveted 8a in Europe at that time.

Mike Owen 28/Oct/92 Lead RP

Onsighted to very high, 1st redpoint.

with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 20/Apr/92 -

I only tried it because it was in the shade. Didn't expect to be even close but I flashed it to the last clip after a fall near the start. Must go back a redpoint it one day soon.

with karin
42 users have this on their wishlist
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set