Rockfax Description
Justifiably famous. An unrelenting pitch up the central line of tufas that sports a hard start and a pulse-enhancing finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50, El Chorro Wishlist Easter 2015, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, El Chorro dreams 7a and above, Spain, Spring 2019, 'Chorro chums
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| plant_based_tommo | 2 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: the in situ thread about half way up looks a touch sun damaged although you're far from the ground at this point... | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: the in situ thread about half way up looks a touch sun damaged although you're far from the ground at this point... |
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Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
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|---|---|---|---|
| mcgovern | 21 Jan | Lead dog |
big holds and moves with Nastia |
| big holds and moves with Nastia |
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| Joshua Cull | 6 Dec, 2019 | Lead RP |
Wow!!! One of the most incredible route in el chorro and one of the best I've climbed. Day one got the moves for the bottom worked but had an epic on the way back. Thought about going down the tunals but had to back track when two head lamps started bobbing up and down very fast towards us. Day two, wasn't sure if if was going to go so went bolt to bolt to walm up. Second go got sent finding kneebars where I had never seen before. In total 5 attempt. What an incredible climb and my second 8a!!! with Andres Basich |
| Wow!!! One of the most incredible route in el chorro and one of the best I've climbed. Day one got the moves for the bottom worked but had an epic on the way back. Thought about going down the tunals but had to back track when two head lamps started bobbing up and down very fast towards us. Day two, wasn't sure if if was going to go so went bolt to bolt to walm up. Second go got sent finding kneebars where I had never seen before. In total 5 attempt. What an incredible climb and my second 8a!!! with Andres Basich |
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| Jake Young | 28 Nov, 2019 | Lead dog |
Where to begin, epic. after a 2 hour walk from the Olive Branch with Ben, Josh & Andrés via the notch to arrive at the glorious but baking crag. Tied on twice managed to link the first 9 draws but struggled with the awkward tufa moves after. Would love to spend more time on this classy fun line but i think its going to have to be the one that got away... for now atleast. May have attempted to walk back via the tunnels to find 2 gaurds waiting, may have ran away from said gaurds back along the tracks and up the hill to Makinodromo then proceed to re-find the notch in the dark. An adventurous 3 hour walk back to the Olive Branch to be greeted with a feast. What a day. with El Chorro 2019 :P |
| Where to begin, epic. after a 2 hour walk from the Olive Branch with Ben, Josh & Andrés via the notch to arrive at the glorious but baking crag. Tied on twice managed to link the first 9 draws but struggled with the awkward tufa moves after. Would love to spend more time on this classy fun line but i think its going to have to be the one that got away... for now atleast. May have attempted to walk back via the tunnels to find 2 gaurds waiting, may have ran away from said gaurds back along the tracks and up the hill to Makinodromo then proceed to re-find the notch in the dark. An adventurous 3 hour walk back to the Olive Branch to be greeted with a feast. What a day. with El Chorro 2019 :P |
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| plant_based_tommo | 26 Nov, 2019 | Lead RP |
Beyond stoked to get this done in a day! First rp! got a bit lost on the (rule abiding) walk in over the ridge from el chorro, then had an exhausting session getting the clips in and figuring out the beta. felt absolutely knackered when i embarked on the redpoint but somehow made it higher and higher, ever more surprised, until i clipped the chains! Awesome route if you like it big and steep! with Robyn Nelson |
| Beyond stoked to get this done in a day! First rp! got a bit lost on the (rule abiding) walk in over the ridge from el chorro, then had an exhausting session getting the clips in and figuring out the beta. felt absolutely knackered when i embarked on the redpoint but somehow made it higher and higher, ever more surprised, until i clipped the chains! Awesome route if you like it big and steep! with Robyn Nelson |
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| maxrose | 17 Apr, 2019 | Lead dog |
Got pretty close with a fall coming out of the crux, no more time this trip but will probably go in the next session there with Adam24B |
| Got pretty close with a fall coming out of the crux, no more time this trip but will probably go in the next session there with Adam24B |
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| Adam24B | 17 Apr, 2019 | Lead RP |
Got it ticked!!! Second day on it this trip, also had a brief play on it a year ago. with maxrose |
| Got it ticked!!! Second day on it this trip, also had a brief play on it a year ago. with maxrose |
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| maxrose | 16 Apr, 2019 | Lead dog |
Feeling good. Two goes, moves sussed on first go, fell 7th clip on second (where the knee bar rest is- but didn’t quite get it right). Crucial leg jam beta after crux might be the make or break beta to finish this boi off clean...Will see how tomorrow goes but only got a day to tick it????????????????
Fun route nonetheless with Adam24B |
| Feeling good. Two goes, moves sussed on first go, fell 7th clip on second (where the knee bar rest is- but didn’t quite get it right). Crucial leg jam beta after crux might be the make or break beta to finish this boi off clean...Will see how tomorrow goes but only got a day to tick it????????????????
Fun route nonetheless with Adam24B |
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| Binigo | 17 Mar, 2019 | Lead dog |
An experience rather than a climb. Did all the moves and got some good links/sequences but needs more than 3 burns to work it all out. with Amii Wilkes |
| An experience rather than a climb. Did all the moves and got some good links/sequences but needs more than 3 burns to work it all out. with Amii Wilkes |
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| AaronBCaldwell | 24 Feb, 2019 | Lead RP | King Line, well worth dedicating a month of my life to it!! I can’t think of a better first 8a!! |
| King Line, well worth dedicating a month of my life to it!! I can’t think of a better first 8a!! | |||
| dan gibson | 16 Feb, 2019 | Lead RP |
Makinodromo is a great crag. Lourdes is a route of quality and history. Make the pilgrimage, but make sure you do more than just this if you can... with katy_abra |
| Makinodromo is a great crag. Lourdes is a route of quality and history. Make the pilgrimage, but make sure you do more than just this if you can... with katy_abra |
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| Hidden | 12 Feb, 2019 | Lead dog | |
| Hidden | 1 Feb, 2019 | Lead dnf | |
| WilliamRupp | 31 Jan, 2019 | Lead dog | Got everything on this with two rests |
| Got everything on this with two rests | |||
| Matt Cooke | 23 Dec, 2018 | Lead RP |
with tskelhon |
with tskelhon |
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| kieranor | ?Dec, 2018 | Lead RP | Yes ! Brilliant, funky climbing with tricky, powerful crux section (which can be tamed with good beta) and a selection of kneebar rests... stunning route and an amazing wall... Felt really easy once the beta was sorted which is a good sign for trying harder things |
| Yes ! Brilliant, funky climbing with tricky, powerful crux section (which can be tamed with good beta) and a selection of kneebar rests... stunning route and an amazing wall... Felt really easy once the beta was sorted which is a good sign for trying harder things | |||
| Adam24B | 19 Feb, 2018 | Lead dog |
Had a play on this with mike after putting the draws in, decided to concentrate on a more accessible project and come back to this another time. Amazing route! with M_Robinson |
| Had a play on this with mike after putting the draws in, decided to concentrate on a more accessible project and come back to this another time. Amazing route! with M_Robinson |
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| M_Robinson | 19 Feb, 2018 | Lead dog |
with Adam24B |
with Adam24B |
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| jonleighton | 27 Jan, 2018 | Lead dog |
Onsight attempt... wasn't even close really, though I did have to put the clips in. Was going to have another go but the clips got taken out, maybe another day. with Emily C |
| Onsight attempt... wasn't even close really, though I did have to put the clips in. Was going to have another go but the clips got taken out, maybe another day. with Emily C |
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| Alex N-R | 24 Jan, 2018 | Lead RP |
Mega climbing. Hard work in the heat yesterday. Bivied under the crag on a goat piss mattress... Went first go in cooler temps. with Huaraz crew |
| Mega climbing. Hard work in the heat yesterday. Bivied under the crag on a goat piss mattress... Went first go in cooler temps. with Huaraz crew |
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| shaunhumphreys | 7 Jan, 2018 | Lead RP |
Get in! Did once to warm up/remember the moves then sent next go, had to wait behind a local while he used the big rest for the route to the left which took ages and felt haaard, bloody psyched tho! with benkelsey |
| Get in! Did once to warm up/remember the moves then sent next go, had to wait behind a local while he used the big rest for the route to the left which took ages and felt haaard, bloody psyched tho! with benkelsey |
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| benkelsey | 7 Jan, 2018 | Lead dog |
Shaun sent on the cold Sunday, while I worked it, taking a kind of ground up approach. Came back on Tuesday after heavy rain to find it goping. I've been given the taste and had it rudely taken away as it never stopped seeping. Respect to Shaun for cruising it, I'll be back for this have no doubt. with shaunhumphreys, shaunhumphreys |
| Shaun sent on the cold Sunday, while I worked it, taking a kind of ground up approach. Came back on Tuesday after heavy rain to find it goping. I've been given the taste and had it rudely taken away as it never stopped seeping. Respect to Shaun for cruising it, I'll be back for this have no doubt. with shaunhumphreys, shaunhumphreys |
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| spidermonkey09 | 22 Nov, 2017 | Lead dog | Fair to say this is steep. Just had a play at the end of a long day, saw enough to see that it goes but would need a few days of work. Think the fitness would come from just trying it. Did bouldering start second go, crux section and top section ok with a lot of yarding inbetween. Top section is wild and bloody scary! |
| Fair to say this is steep. Just had a play at the end of a long day, saw enough to see that it goes but would need a few days of work. Think the fitness would come from just trying it. Did bouldering start second go, crux section and top section ok with a lot of yarding inbetween. Top section is wild and bloody scary! | |||
| spidey | 1 May, 2017 | TR dnf |
Checked it out. Such a cool route, needs more than a couple of days to dry due to seepage after heavy rain. with Hazel Findlay |
| Checked it out. Such a cool route, needs more than a couple of days to dry due to seepage after heavy rain. with Hazel Findlay |
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| shaunhumphreys | 7 Feb, 2017 | Lead dog |
Got through the crux and fluffed it at the top on my last go before leaving chorro by making a few silly mistakes! Gutted, and an amazing route, definitely coming back for this in the future! with Ellie Fuller |
| Got through the crux and fluffed it at the top on my last go before leaving chorro by making a few silly mistakes! Gutted, and an amazing route, definitely coming back for this in the future! with Ellie Fuller |
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| Mat Welsh | 23 Jan, 2017 | Lead dog |
OS attempt finished reasonably high up one clip below the hole rest. Climbed it clip to clip from there other than past the last clip where I took 3 lobs off the last blocky hold staring at the chains - and then discovered a sinker behind the block ! Awesome tufa line. with Emilysaladfingers |
| OS attempt finished reasonably high up one clip below the hole rest. Climbed it clip to clip from there other than past the last clip where I took 3 lobs off the last blocky hold staring at the chains - and then discovered a sinker behind the block ! Awesome tufa line. with Emilysaladfingers |
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| Frances Bensley | 8 Jan, 2017 | Lead RP |
Really happy to get this done, second go as I managed to punt off the top on my flash attempt! Thanks Dave for all the beta. with will smith11 |
| Really happy to get this done, second go as I managed to punt off the top on my flash attempt! Thanks Dave for all the beta. with will smith11 |
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| shaunhumphreys | 31 Dec, 2016 | Lead dnf |
Tried twice then once half-heartedly, felt fucked and tough, managed to get a sequence to the hole sorted didn't try top section in the end, pulleys feel fucked in multiple fingers so probably time to have a break! with Ted |
| Tried twice then once half-heartedly, felt fucked and tough, managed to get a sequence to the hole sorted didn't try top section in the end, pulleys feel fucked in multiple fingers so probably time to have a break! with Ted |
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| will smith11 | 29 Dec, 2016 | Lead β |
7c+ with Ted kingsnorth , Frances Bensley |
| 7c+ with Ted kingsnorth , Frances Bensley |
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| sev | 25 Oct, 2016 | Lead RP | Fell off the onsight high up, 2nd go. there's an almost lie down rest in a hole after the crux. It's so bloody long! |
| Fell off the onsight high up, 2nd go. there's an almost lie down rest in a hole after the crux. It's so bloody long! | |||
| Dan Hale | 3 Mar, 2016 | Lead RP |
Second try today. Had 3 pretty terrible sessions on it previously where I kept doing silly things like trying to knee-bar with the wrong leg and slipping off during no hands rests! Went pretty easily today with all the beta sorted despite the intense heat and bleeding fingers. Psyched to do it without a kneepad having borrowed one on my first session only to return padless with many of the rests too painful/slippery to use. with Justin Rawnsley, Roland Schmitt |
| Second try today. Had 3 pretty terrible sessions on it previously where I kept doing silly things like trying to knee-bar with the wrong leg and slipping off during no hands rests! Went pretty easily today with all the beta sorted despite the intense heat and bleeding fingers. Psyched to do it without a kneepad having borrowed one on my first session only to return padless with many of the rests too painful/slippery to use. with Justin Rawnsley, Roland Schmitt |
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| Cailean Harker | 20 Jan, 2016 | Lead RP |
Absolutely amazing climbing. Dropped the onsight with my hand an inch from the finish hold. I blame the dodgy tick marks. Fired it off 2nd go. Brilliant way to end an amazing week in El Chorro. I will be back. with Hannah Brading |
| Absolutely amazing climbing. Dropped the onsight with my hand an inch from the finish hold. I blame the dodgy tick marks. Fired it off 2nd go. Brilliant way to end an amazing week in El Chorro. I will be back. with Hannah Brading |
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| Ram MkiV | 9 Jan, 2016 | Lead RP | Brilliant. Felt pretty robbed on the flash - right hand got stuck in slot as i went for throw move to juggy hole! Happy to settle for 2nd go though |
| Brilliant. Felt pretty robbed on the flash - right hand got stuck in slot as i went for throw move to juggy hole! Happy to settle for 2nd go though | |||
| Hidden | 3 Jan, 2016 | Lead O/S | |
| climbomaniac | 13 Apr, 2015 | Lead dog | Had falls at the two crux sections, but just wanted to check it out. What an absolutely magnificent climb!! Never climbed anything like it! Def want to come back for the redpoint!!! |
| Had falls at the two crux sections, but just wanted to check it out. What an absolutely magnificent climb!! Never climbed anything like it! Def want to come back for the redpoint!!! | |||
| drcorbasisgod | 6 Mar, 2015 | Lead dog |
with Marc Weisner |
with Marc Weisner |
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| Tophe | 10 Feb, 2015 | Lead rpt | |
| nathanlee | 5 Jan, 2015 | Lead RP |
Yessss! One off the lifetine list! 2nd redders. This is why you come to spain! with Jack Lawledge, goli |
| Yessss! One off the lifetine list! 2nd redders. This is why you come to spain! with Jack Lawledge, goli |
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| gurumed | 5 Mar, 2014 | Lead dnf |
Got half way up, then couldn't get back on. What a route. with Sam |
| Got half way up, then couldn't get back on. What a route. with Sam |
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| JBO | 19 Feb, 2014 | Lead dog | Incredible route. Managed all the moves fairly easily but couldn't imagine linking it all without finding some better rests... Need to get cannier on tufa. |
| Incredible route. Managed all the moves fairly easily but couldn't imagine linking it all without finding some better rests... Need to get cannier on tufa. | |||
| CharlotteGarden1 | 30 Dec, 2013 | Lead RP |
with James Garden, cliffrad |
with James Garden, cliffrad |
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| James Marshall | 26 Dec, 2013 | Lead RP |
Fantastic, especially the top which I dropped on my previous attempt. with Blaize from Canada |
| Fantastic, especially the top which I dropped on my previous attempt. with Blaize from Canada |
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| Andytapper | 6 Feb, 2013 | Lead RP | Beautiful line,it's baffling if you are not fit enough for a good onsight attempt, however after working it the sequence really falls into place |
| Beautiful line,it's baffling if you are not fit enough for a good onsight attempt, however after working it the sequence really falls into place | |||
| KKilroy | 1 Feb, 2013 | Lead RP |
with Emma Clarke |
with Emma Clarke |
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| J.Wells | 20 Dec, 2012 | Lead RP |
with liam |
with liam |
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| Hidden | 20 Dec, 2012 | Lead RP | |
| Dave Bond | 26 Jan, 2012 | Lead RP |
with Christie whitehill |
with Christie whitehill |
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| Hidden | 10 Jan, 2012 | Lead RP | |
| Glyn | 18 Dec, 2011 | Lead RP |
Amazing! Clipped chains just as sun was setting. Third team 8a of the day, sport climbing does'nt get much better!. 2nd rpt..never thought it would go today. just about slapped my way through first crux, stayed in rest for 10min then held it together at the top with Luke Brooks, barni |
| Amazing! Clipped chains just as sun was setting. Third team 8a of the day, sport climbing does'nt get much better!. 2nd rpt..never thought it would go today. just about slapped my way through first crux, stayed in rest for 10min then held it together at the top with Luke Brooks, barni |
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| Luke Brooks | 18 Dec, 2011 | Lead RP | |
| dannyboy83 | 13 Dec, 2011 | Lead RP |
with Martin |
with Martin |
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| barni | 12 Dec, 2011 | Lead dog | |
| mwatson | ?Dec, 2011 | Lead dog | Excellent route just didn't fit the rests |
| Excellent route just didn't fit the rests | |||
| Georgina Brooke | ?Apr, 2011 | TR dnf | i moved on this route, bitches |
| i moved on this route, bitches | |||
| jamiefoxen | ?Jan, 2010 | AltLd dog |
"onle up half way, the octopus" with MonkeyDawson, bob foster |
| "onle up half way, the octopus" with MonkeyDawson, bob foster |
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| MonkeyDawson | ?Jan, 2010 | AltLd dog |
Only up to half way...the octopus! with Jamie, Bob Foster |
| Only up to half way...the octopus! with Jamie, Bob Foster |
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| david potts | 19 Dec, 2009 | Lead RP | In the cloud with fleece and hat on. great route. |
| In the cloud with fleece and hat on. great route. | |||
| Ed Booth | 28 Mar, 2009 | Lead dnf | It was raining and some spanish guys had the clips in so had an onsight burn. Got to just below the central big formations. Was laughing to much to take it seriously. This would go with a bit more knowledge and time. Holds are huge! |
| It was raining and some spanish guys had the clips in so had an onsight burn. Got to just below the central big formations. Was laughing to much to take it seriously. This would go with a bit more knowledge and time. Holds are huge! | |||
| Cassidy | 31 Mar, 2005 | Lead RP |
with Tiso Pete |
with Tiso Pete |
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| Dave Musgrove Jnr | ?Apr, 2001 | Lead β |
flashed with ace beta from Joe. Brilliant but lots of good shake-outs with Joe le Sage |
| flashed with ace beta from Joe. Brilliant but lots of good shake-outs with Joe le Sage |
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| Tom Briggs | 2 Apr, 1998 | Lead RP |
1st F8a with Dave Ferguson |
| 1st F8a with Dave Ferguson |
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| Eduardo Martinez | 1 Feb, 1994 | Lead RP | One of my first 8as when Tufas were new to climbing. A route that changed sport climbing and was the most coveted 8a in Europe at that time. |
| One of my first 8as when Tufas were new to climbing. A route that changed sport climbing and was the most coveted 8a in Europe at that time. | |||
| Mike Owen | 28 Oct, 1992 | Lead RP |
Onsighted to very high, 1st redpoint. with Elaine Owen |
| Onsighted to very high, 1st redpoint. with Elaine Owen |
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| Steve Crowe | 20 Apr, 1992 | - |
I only tried it because it was in the shade. Didn't expect to be even close but I flashed it to the last clip after a fall near the start. Must go back a redpoint it one day soon. with karin |
| I only tried it because it was in the shade. Didn't expect to be even close but I flashed it to the last clip after a fall near the start. Must go back a redpoint it one day soon. with karin |
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