14m.

Rockfax Description
The superb leaning crack is quite steady up to two-thirds height, and then it starts to turn mean. Long reaches, thin jams and a tricky exit all add up to make an arduous but high-quality outing. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown (1 pt) 1957. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists

Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Proper Cracks UK

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UserDateNotes
TomPR 28 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for E3 when wet! It's definitely not reachy though (unless you have very poor technique). You just have to use some lovely flared jams and it's all good. Pumpy topout as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard for E3 when wet! It's definitely not reachy though (unless you have very poor technique). You just have to use some lovely flared jams and it's all good. Pumpy topout as well.
UKB Shark 7 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The top crack can take a lot of drainage and it can be wetter in the crack than it appears from below. A three star route even in this condition -as to whoever voted no stars - your opinion deserves no respect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top crack can take a lot of drainage and it can be wetter in the crack than it appears from below. A three star route even in this condition -as to whoever voted no stars - your opinion deserves no respect.
goi.ashmore 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Total horrorshow! The top is much harder than it looks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Total horrorshow! The top is much harder than it looks!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pie_eater_pete 24 May Lead G/U
James Oakes 19 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
ashtond6 20 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Well I had a mare today
Well I had a mare today
deacondeacon 19 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Fell off at the crux. Topped it from there. Did it from the ground next go. Brill route
Fell off at the crux. Topped it from there. Did it from the ground next go. Brill route
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 31 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Pete Whittaker
with Pete Whittaker
Flavio 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Good to see progress for someone who broke his ankle punting on a J.B. VS jamming crack with tape! No tape and no midges this time. I like, great success.
Good to see progress for someone who broke his ankle punting on a J.B. VS jamming crack with tape! No tape and no midges this time. I like, great success.
James Oswald 6 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf After lots of upping and downing, I couldn't quite commit to the crux because the rope was behind my leg and I fell/ jumped off. One to come back for with jamming gloves.. Hard E3.
with Andy Moles
After lots of upping and downing, I couldn't quite commit to the crux because the rope was behind my leg and I fell/ jumped off. One to come back for with jamming gloves.. Hard E3.
with Andy Moles
Graeme Hammond 16 May, 2016 Lead β Didn't manage my warm up cleanly but this was ok. Well protected 5c not 6a, bit of blood was worth it (no tape!)
with Chris Hindley
Didn't manage my warm up cleanly but this was ok. Well protected 5c not 6a, bit of blood was worth it (no tape!)
with Chris Hindley
phil64 8 May, 2016 Lead dog too hot for a northerner like me, cooked the last move!!!
with Andy Bowman
too hot for a northerner like me, cooked the last move!!!
with Andy Bowman
Hidden 5 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
The old James turnbull 3 Aug, 2015 Lead "The problem with crack is its so moreish!"
"The problem with crack is its so moreish!"
heywoodj 3 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
soph 5 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
hamer89 ?Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd
Hidden 22 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
Rachel Slater 18 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Hmmm... fun!
Hmmm... fun!
tim newton 18 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Misha 19 Jun, 2014 Lead dog This was Eszter's idea and I went along with it as wanted to find out if I'd be able to do it clean this time. Should have remembered that summer grit = midges! It turned out to be a midgefest from hell! Warm, humid, no wind, lots of vegetation, should have known better!!! Climbing was fine actually and belaying was just about bearable but unpleasant, even with a spare top covering the head, neck and most of the face! As for the route... Went up on Eszter's gear to the crux, a nice enough E1 to that point. The crux completely threw me again. Must have had 6 or 7 goes before getting the sequence right. Annoyingly, when I finally managed it, it felt pretty straightforward. Same hand sequence as last time except using a jam rather than a pinch R but the real issue was getting the feet high enough to get the finger jam in the short horizontal bit of the crack and then higher again to get the good jam. The finishing jamming section was quite pleasant. Ran away to Stoney afterwards as the midges were getting worse.
with eszter
This was Eszter's idea and I went along with it as wanted to find out if I'd be able to do it clean this time. Should have remembered that summer grit = midges! It turned out to be a midgefest from hell! Warm, humid, no wind, lots of vegetation, should have known better!!! Climbing was fine actually and belaying was just about bearable but unpleasant, even with a spare top covering the head, neck and most of the face! As for the route... Went up on Eszter's gear to the crux, a nice enough E1 to that point. The crux completely threw me again. Must have had 6 or 7 goes before getting the sequence right. Annoyingly, when I finally managed it, it felt pretty straightforward. Same hand sequence as last time except using a jam rather than a pinch R but the real issue was getting the feet high enough to get the finger jam in the short horizontal bit of the crack and then higher again to get the good jam. The finishing jamming section was quite pleasant. Ran away to Stoney afterwards as the midges were getting worse.
with eszter
phil64 16 May, 2014 2nd O/S with Robin and Sheila
with Robin and Sheila
Andy Peak 1 22 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Super dooper hard :-)
with Tom Martin
Super dooper hard :-)
with Tom Martin
andi turner ??, 2013 -
masa-alpin 28 Jul, 2012 Lead dog Cleaned the last holds from the top as suggested by the current definitive guidebook. I fell off and dogged over a dozen, maybe 20, times. But surprisingly I finally made to the top in my last attempt! Extremely satisfying and memorable experience! I haven't found a knee-bar - however, for me the section before was the definite crux.
with perrys
Cleaned the last holds from the top as suggested by the current definitive guidebook. I fell off and dogged over a dozen, maybe 20, times. But surprisingly I finally made to the top in my last attempt! Extremely satisfying and memorable experience! I haven't found a knee-bar - however, for me the section before was the definite crux.
with perrys
perrys 28 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden 28 May, 2011 Lead rpt
Misha 21 May, 2011 Lead dog A classic grit bruiser. Enjoyable climbing on hidden holds up to the ledge. We all thought the crux was getting to the finishing jams. Had to have three goes at it, starting from the ledge each time. The key for me was getting the hand sequence right: good hold on arete L, pinch R, crimp L, pull up to jam R. The actual jamming wasn't too hard but felt hard after doing the crux! Brian and Ian both struggled so can't have been easy...
with Ian W, Brian Rodgers
A classic grit bruiser. Enjoyable climbing on hidden holds up to the ledge. We all thought the crux was getting to the finishing jams. Had to have three goes at it, starting from the ledge each time. The key for me was getting the hand sequence right: good hold on arete L, pinch R, crimp L, pull up to jam R. The actual jamming wasn't too hard but felt hard after doing the crux! Brian and Ian both struggled so can't have been easy...
with Ian W, Brian Rodgers
thomasadixon 2 May, 2011 Lead dog Clearly need to learn to fist jam... Bottom section a path compared to the top.
with mwatson
Clearly need to learn to fist jam... Bottom section a path compared to the top.
with mwatson
IAmAStone 2 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
with Charlie Jefferson
with Charlie Jefferson
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??, 2011 -
walts4 ??, 2011 -
nickcanute ?Sep, 2010 Lead nice jamming route, just get your hands right way round.. loads of red herring holds chalked either side of crack, but each to their own.
with alan taylor
nice jamming route, just get your hands right way round.. loads of red herring holds chalked either side of crack, but each to their own.
with alan taylor
The old James turnbull ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with aiden
with aiden
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 25 Jul, 2010 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2010 -
dan gibson 17 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 2nd
gordonday 13 Sep, 2009 TR dog
with clive
with clive
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Ted Kingsnorth
with Ted Kingsnorth
Actionflack ?Sep, 2009 TR
craig d 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dog What a battle. Was nearly sick on top. Will return to lead clean. Brilliant
with Simon Kincaid
What a battle. Was nearly sick on top. Will return to lead clean. Brilliant
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 27 May, 2009 Lead dog
OffshoreAndy 24 May, 2008 Lead dog did the crux then to the top after fraiser backed off it.
with Works Frasier
did the crux then to the top after fraiser backed off it.
with Works Frasier
Hidden ?Nov, 2007 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 29 Apr, 2007 Lead
with John
with John
UKB Shark 4 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S An exhausting fight as the flare and crack was wet
with rayash
An exhausting fight as the flare and crack was wet
with rayash
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden 18 Jul, 2000 -
Hidden 19 May, 1999 Lead dog
Mike_d78 12 Jul, 1998 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 12 Jul, 1998 Lead dog
goi.ashmore 8 Aug, 1997 Lead RP
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
sadams 13 May, 1997 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead
Hidden ?May, 1996 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 1995 -
crossleysm ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Ovenpaa ?May, 1993 Lead
NickJH ?Apr, 1991 2nd dog
with N Hancock
with N Hancock
Neil McA 31 May, 1990 Lead G/U Took one fall then did it. A toughie!
with Andy Cave
Took one fall then did it. A toughie!
with Andy Cave
ajtay ??, 1989 -
charlesmfrench 9 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ??, 1985 2nd dnf Looked very grim. Fortunately Boris couldn't do it, so I didn't have to have a try.
with Brian H
Looked very grim. Fortunately Boris couldn't do it, so I didn't have to have a try.
with Brian H
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1984 Lead O/S
with Ian Timm
with Ian Timm
Hidden ?May, 1983 Lead rpt
stp 20 Mar, 1983 Lead rpt Fell off a few times at the top. Lowered to ground. Done when this was given E2. Thrutchy finish more like awkward 5c.
Fell off a few times at the top. Lowered to ground. Done when this was given E2. Thrutchy finish more like awkward 5c.
Andy Nicholson ?Aug, 1978 Lead G/U
with Spike
with Spike
petemeads ??, 1978 Lead The top is indeed hard...
The top is indeed hard...
clanger ??, 1972 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set