Climbs 123
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 214m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Mark G on the crux of Vibrio © CragHead

Crag features

Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the Cinderella of the Eastern Edges. It faces northwest and only receives sun on summer afternoons. It might be expected that the proximity of the A619 with its never-ending stream of traffic would spoil the cliff, but the thick tree cover muffles the noise. The slope below the cliff is overgrown by the start of the summer, making navigation along the foot of the cliff tricky. Also large trees growing close to the cliff face have encouraged lichen growth in recent years. Despite these negative aspects, under the right conditions climbing here is pleasant as the main buttresses escape the worst of the vegetation. The best routes here are the equal of any on grit, and any true gritstoner will one day have to bite the bullet and throw themselves at the likes of Vibrio, Emerald Crack, Pearls and the intimidating battle of Sentinel Crack. If you like to climb away from the crowds it is worth putting Chatsworth on your list. It is possible to have the place pretty much to yourself, and from the top of the buttresses the crowds on nearby Birchen are visible.

Approach notes

There is parking by the Robin Hood Inn. Walk down the road for 150m to a discreet stile on the opposite side of the road. Cross this and follow steps down to a footbridge. Once across the river, head right over marshy ground to reach a well-made track that runs rightwards to the crag; less than 10 mins from the parking.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
Nice quiet crag, quite overgrown in places but climbing is good. Paying for it now though - total midge fest.
Becks87 - 20/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stump Hole Cavern
2 Stump Cream
-
V1 2
3 Stump Cream Extension V4 2
4 Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)
-
V8 * 16
5 Stump Hole Cavern
-
V10 *  
6 Stumpy V0- 5
  Measurement Slab
8 Measurement Slab V0 8
  Tree Buttress
10 Aquiline Arête VS 4b 1
11 Mr Smith's Vegetable Patch VS 4b  
12 Arboreal Attack E1 6a 1
13 La Sensus S  
  Mort Wall
15 Sidewinder HVS 5b * 49
16 Mort Wall HVS 5a ** 313
17 Slip Arête E2 5b ** 83
18 Strangler's Groove S 4a * 133
19 Strangler's Crack HVD * 96
20 Throttled Groove S 4b * 76
21 Dumper E1 5b * 8
22 Jumpers E3 6a * 4
23 Where Next, Columbus? E2 5c  
  Sentinel Buttress
25 Leaper VS 5b 37
26 Choked Crack D * 170
27 Choked Chimney VD 75
28 The Puppet Crack HVS 5b ** 78
29 Sentinel Crack E3 5c *** 60
30 Welcome to the Body Park
-
E5 6b *  
31 Sentinel Buttress E3 5c * 3
32 Sentinel Groove E6 6c *  
33 The Train Now Standing E5 6b *  
34 No One Here Gets Out Alive E6 6c  
35 Cave Climb D * 79
36 Wrinkled Nose VS 4b * 6
37 Shy Boy
-
V6 * 4
38 Cave Crack S 4b ** 104
39 Pretty Vacant E1 5a 13
40 Monk's Park E1 5c 13
41 More Tea Vicar? E4 6b  
42 Lichen E2 5b *** 25
  High Step
44 Sloping Crack VD 21
45 Do You Wanna? HVS 5a 14
46 Tree Crack VD 16
Climb name Grade
47 Cadenza E3 5c 6
48 High Step E1 5a ** 75
49 Price HVS 5a 38
50 Overlapping Rib
-
HVD 3
  Spiral Route
52 I Guess I Planted V4+  
53 The Militant V10  
54 I Smell Winter V6  
55 The Direct E1 5b  
56 Shop Steward V5 1
57 Spiral Route VS 5a 7
58 The Morning After E1 5b  
59 Three Pebble Slob E1 5c  
  Tooth Buttress
61 Captain Bee Fart V5  
62 Captain Beef Art V5+  
63 Tooth Arête
-
VS 4b * 7
64 Tooth Crack
-
VD 4a 5
65 Tree Chimney
-
D 10
66 Pear Slab
-
VS 4c 4
67 Short Crack
-
VS 4c * 7
  Emerald Crack
69 The Clasp E3 5b * 5
70 Emily HVS 5a  
71 Left Twin Crack S 4a ** 26
72 Emerald Crack E3 6a *** 73
73 Esmerelda f6A 7
74 Diamond Life E5 6b *  
75 Pearls E2 5c ** 154
76 Double Cave Climb VD 4a 32
77 Capstone Chimney VD 4a 6
78 The Arête VS 4c 5
79 Dead Tree Crack
-
HS 4b 6
80 Dead Tree Ridge
-
VD 4
  Upper Emerald Boulders
82 Strike Action V6  
83 Boss Breaker V0  
84 United We Stand V1  
85 Flying Picket V5 1
  Vibrio Area
87 High in the Thin Cold Air VS 4c 2
88 Step Buttress HVD * 40
89 Good Vibrations E2 5c * 2
90 Vibrio E1 5b ** 129
91 Vibrio Direct E2 6a ** 60
92 Twisted Reach E4 6b * 2
Climb name Grade
93 Step Buttress Crack VD 15
94 Mark Pretty VD 3
95 Abdul's Chimney M 2
96 Abdul's Wall VD 1
97 Broken Buttress Climb VS 4b * 30
98 Ladies' Way
-
VD 9
99 Choked Flake Climb
-
HD 9
  Oak Tree Climb
101 Noser VS 4c * 18
102 Thin Air HVS 5a 1
103 The Zig-zag Finish HS 4b * 19
104 Hanging Arête f6C+ 1
105 Oak Tree Climb S 4a 17
106 The Road to Domestos VS 4c 2
107 Honalee f7B * 5
108 Shut Your Mouth E2 5c  
109 I Don't Know What My Mouth Was Saying
-
E1 5b  
110 Oak Tree Recess
-
D 3
111 Skylight Gullies
-
M 6
112 O'Reilly's Staircase S 4a * 21
113 Calypso Crack HVD 4a 7
  Emperor Buttress
115 Emperor Flake Climb VD ** 248
116 Emperor Flake Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4c 6
117 Emperor Crack VS 4c * 131
118 The Tyrant E2 5c 9
119 Desperot f7A+ ** 36
120 Despot E1 5c * 61
121 Empress Crack S 4b ** 171
122 Princess Crack D 17
123 Prince's Crack HS 4b ** 117
124 Up the Establishment E1 5b * 60
125 Anarchist's Arête VS 4c * 77
126 Emperor's Struggle S 4a * 25
127 Doctor's Doddle
-
VS 5a 7
128 Holly Tree Arête S 4a 5
129 The Republican Tour
-
HS 4b * 1
130 The Royal Tour
-
HS 1
  Jerk Buttress
132 Lateral Thinking
-
HVS 5b  
133 Chatmandu
-
E1 5c * 1
134 Some Jerk on TV E1 5b * 10
135 Weanie Meanie
-
E4 6c 1
136 Grow A Pear f7A+ 3
  Compression Sickness
138 Compression Sickness f7B ** 1

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