Climbs 114
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces NW

Mark G on the crux of Vibrio © CragHead

Crag features

Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the Cinderella of the Eastern Edges. It faces northwest and only receives sun on summer afternoons. It might be expected that the proximity of the A619 with its never-ending stream of traffic would spoil the cliff, but the thick tree cover muffles the noise. The slope below the cliff is overgrown by the start of the summer, making navigation along the foot of the cliff tricky. Also large trees growing close to the cliff face have encouraged lichen growth in recent years. Despite these negative aspects, under the right conditions climbing here is pleasant as the main buttresses escape the worst of the vegetation. The best routes here are the equal of any on grit, and any true gritstoner will one day have to bite the bullet and throw themselves at the likes of Vibrio, Emerald Crack, Pearls and the intimidating battle of Sentinel Crack. If you like to climb away from the crowds it is worth putting Chatsworth on your list. It is possible to have the place pretty much to yourself, and from the top of the buttresses the crowds on nearby Birchen are visible.

Approach notes

There is parkingby the Robin Hood Inn. Walk down the road for 150m to a discreet stile on the opposite side of the road. Cross this and follow steps down to a well-made track that runs rightwards to the crag; less than 10mins from the parking.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
Nice quiet crag, quite overgrown in places but climbing is good. Paying for it now though - total midge fest.
Becks87 - 20/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tree Buttress
2 Aquiline Arête VS 4b 1
3 Mr Smith's Vegetable Patch VS 4b  
4 Arboreal Attack E1 6a  
5 La Sensus S  
  Mort Wall
7 Sidewinder HVS 5b * 44
8 Mort Wall HVS 5a ** 291
9 Slip Arête E2 5b ** 76
10 Strangler's Groove S 4a * 130
11 Strangler's Crack HVD * 92
12 Throttled Groove S 4b * 73
13 Dumper E1 5b * 9
14 Jumpers E3 6a * 3
15 Where Next, Columbus? E2 5c  
  Sentinel Buttress
17 Leaper VS 5b 33
18 Choked Crack D * 149
19 Choked Chimney VD 66
20 The Puppet Crack HVS 5b ** 70
21 Sentinel Crack E3 5c *** 82
22 Welcome to the Body Park
-
E5 6b *  
23 Sentinel Buttress E3 5c * 3
24 Sentinel Groove E6 6c *  
25 The Train Now Standing E5 6b * 1
26 No One Here Gets Out Alive E6 6c  
27 Cave Climb D * 82
28 More Tea Vicar? E4 6b  
29 Wrinkled Nose VS 4b * 4
30 Shy Boy
-
V6 * 2
31 Cave Crack S 4b ** 97
32 Pretty Vacant E1 5a 13
33 Monk's Park E1 5c 13
34 Sloping Crack VD 18
35 Lichen E2 5b *** 21
  High Step
37 Do You Wanna? HVS 5a 12
38 Tree Crack VD 16
39 Cadenza E3 5c 6
40 High Step E1 5a ** 70
41 Price HVS 5a 38
42 Overlapping Rib
-
HVD 3
  Spiral Route
44 Spiral Route VS 5a 7
45 The Direct E1 5b 1
46 The Morning After E1 5b  
47 Three Pebble Slob E1 5c  
48 Shop Steward * V5  
49 The Militant * V10  
50 I Guess I Planted * V4+  
  Tooth Buttress
52 Tooth Arête
-
VS 4b * 7
53 Tooth Crack
-
VD 4a 5
54 Tree Chimney
-
D 10
55 Pear Slab
-
VS 4c 5
56 Short Crack
-
VS 4c * 7
57 Captain Bee Fart * V5  
58 Captain Beef Art * VE  
  Emerald Crack
60 The Clasp E3 5b * 5
61 Emily HVS 5a  
62 Left Twin Crack S 4a ** 27
63 Emerald Crack E3 6a *** 81
64 Esmerelda f6A 6
65 Diamond Life E5 6b *  
66 Pearls E2 5c ** 151
67 Double Cave Climb VD 4a 31
68 Capstone Chimney VD 4a 6
69 The Arête VS 4c 5
70 Dead Tree Crack
-
HS 4b 6
71 Dead Tree Ridge
-
VD 4
72 Boss Breaker * V0  
73 Strike Action * V6  
74 Flying Picket * V5  
75 United We Stand * V1  
  Vibrio Area
77 High in the Thin Cold Air HVS 5a 1
78 Step Buttress HVD * 34
79 Good Vibrations E2 5c * 2
80 Vibrio E1 5b ** 133
81 Vibrio Direct E2 6a ** 51
82 Twisted Reach E4 6b * 3
83 Step Buttress Crack VD 15
84 Mark Pretty VD 2
85 Broken Buttress Climb VS 4b * 29
86 Ladies' Way
-
VD 7
87 Choked Flake Climb
-
HD 9
88 Abdul's Chimney M 2
89 Abdul's Wall VD 1
  Oak Tree Climb
91 Noser VS 4c * 13
92 Thin Air VS 4c 3
93 The Zigzag Finish HS 4b * 12
94 Oak Tree Climb S 4a 13
95 The Road to Domestos VS 4c 1
96 Shut Your Mouth E2 5c  
97 I Don't Know What My Mouth Was Saying
-
E1 5b  
98 Oak Tree Recess
-
D 2
99 Skylight Gullies
-
M 7
100 O'Reilly's Staircase S 4a * 19
101 Calypso Crack HVD 4a 7
  Emperor Buttress
103 Emperor Flake Climb VD ** 214
104 Emperor Flake Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4c 6
105 Emperor Crack VS 4c * 111
106 The Tyrant E2 5c 8
107 Desperot f7A+ ** 34
108 Despot E1 5c * 55
109 Empress Crack S 4b ** 146
110 Princess Crack D 15
111 Prince's Crack HS 4b ** 102
112 Up the Establishment E1 5b * 54
113 Anarchist's Arête VS 4c * 65
114 Emperor's Struggle S 4a * 24
115 Doctor's Doddle
-
VS 5a 6
116 Holly Tree Arête S 4a 4
117 The Republican Tour
-
HS 4b *  
118 The Royal Tour
-
HS 1
  Jerk Buttress
120 Lateral Thinking
-
HVS 5b  
121 Chatmandu
-
E1 5c * 1
122 Some Jerk on TV E1 5b * 6
123 Weanie Meanie
-
E4 6c  
124 Measurement Slab * M 5
125 I Smell Winter * V6  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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