UKC

Climbs 133
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 214m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Mark G on the crux of Vibrio © CragHead

Crag features

Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the Cinderella of the Eastern Edges. It faces northwest and only receives sun on summer afternoons. It might be expected that the proximity of the A619 with its never-ending stream of traffic would spoil the cliff, but the thick tree cover muffles the noise. The slope below the cliff is overgrown by the start of the summer, making navigation along the foot of the cliff tricky. Also large trees growing close to the cliff face have encouraged lichen growth in recent years. Despite these negative aspects, under the right conditions climbing here is pleasant as the main buttresses escape the worst of the vegetation. The best routes here are the equal of any on grit, and any true gritstoner will one day have to bite the bullet and throw themselves at the likes of Vibrio, Emerald Crack, Pearls and the intimidating battle of Sentinel Crack. If you like to climb away from the crowds it is worth putting Chatsworth on your list. It is possible to have the place pretty much to yourself, and from the top of the buttresses the crowds on nearby Birchen are visible.

Approach notes

There is parking by the Robin Hood Inn. Walk down the road for 150m to a discreet stile on the opposite side of the road. Cross this and follow steps down to a footbridge. Once across the river, head right over marshy ground to reach a well-made track that runs rightwards to the crag; less than 10 mins from the parking.

Nice quiet crag, quite overgrown in places but climbing is good. Paying for it now though - total midge fest.
Becks87 - 20/Jul/15
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