Rockfax Description
A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting all the same. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to the arete. Follow this with crucial moves on the left side (the very tall can teeter up the front) to reach a fat fluting and the final blank wall with its superb hidden jug. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Climbed and claimed again by Tom Proctor 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

DubyaJamesDubya 12/Nov/17 Lead rpt
with Andrew Bevan
morganator 05/Nov/17 Lead

Awesome as ever

Hidden 02/Oct/17 2nd
BRoe 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with CRAIG!
marcduhig 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Alan, Alex Pond
rosiehawker 04/Jun/17 2nd
mikeski 04/Jun/17 Lead rpt
dominic lee 08/Apr/17 2nd
with daniel lee
Rory_Cummings_NI 14/Mar/17 TR


with Ian
benw681 03/Jan/17 Lead G/U

Stoked to do this today after flopping off a couple of years back. Unbelievably good but looks a bit sht from below. Struggling with all that christmas pie too..

with Mick Hill
Graeme Hammond 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic moves up the arête (did on left), took a while (thanks Andy!), but great to get that finishing jug :)

Bradbury 26/Nov/16 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Mega. Cool traverse, great arête climbing and finish with a flourish on jugs. Loved it. Climbed the crux arête on its left.

bwestwood 25/Oct/16 2nd
pie_eater_pete 25/Oct/16 -
JamesTurnbull97 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Forgot what grit E3 can be like

with Flo
john lynch 23/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Great fun, much steeper feeling than expected.

with Lewis Andrew
julesmckim 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Been wanting to do this for years. Spent ages trying the slab, obviously not very tall, so back to the steeper side of the arete - much more positive and straightforward. Wonderful rock features and bomber gear.

with Rob Smart
Adam Willison 01/May/16 Lead O/S

First E3 5C

mshorter 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with tom, dunc
tom russell 23/Apr/16 Lead β
with mike, Dunc Campbell, Brewer Rob
dominic lee 21/Apr/16 Lead
with daniel lee
nick ferro 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Went up the slab, long reach with left hand to crimp.

with Tim Bee
Longsufferingropeholder 03/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Retro-flash, if that's a thing. Didn't see a way on the left so went onto the slab. Not tall enough to do it the tall way but managed a grim, smeary, crimpy, cranky, committing heave up the front. Nice to get clean after backing off years ago.

Mark Warnett ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
will9911 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Low e3, Not as hard as nutcracker if you do the Boot Hill moves left of the arete , (nutcracker takes the right hand slab and ledge (tall))

Andy Moles 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 19/Mar/16 2nd
fuzzysheep01 07/Nov/15 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 07/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Despite heavy rain in the morning the route was dry by the time we did it. Committing moves on the LH side of the arête for the crux but superb.

with Joe Norris
Brown 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Tom R, Tim
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Fat Boy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 07/Jul/15 2nd O/S
bigdrew 03/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead
Andy Peak 1 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Very cool short arête, Good gear

adam 24 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Crux move felt really hard, was mm from falling. I definitely couldn't reach through to the break so did a desperate palming / smearing combo, this just allowed me to reach the razor crimp with my right hand.

Stuart Johnston 03/May/15 2nd O/S

Hard move leaving the ledge on the slab

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11/Jan/15 Lead O/S

hard and scary - didn't take enough gear. hard e3!

robertmctague 11/Jan/15 Lead β

Hard! I reckon 6a going up the face.

Matt Cooke 02/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Brannock 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

First natural gritstone e3, crux done tall person way, just about tall enough. Quality route.

ashtond6 03/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Slab crux seemed 6a and bold so backed off

The Grist 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Fell trying to do right hand stretch on the slab in hot conditions. Took a decent sized but clean fall. Have to try again another day.

with Lee Hamilton
thrutch 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Sven
Jordan B 22/Feb/14 Lead
with Naomi Buys
TonyF ??/2014 -
Ethan 04/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Don Walker
Coel Hellier 29/Sep/13 Lead
dominic lee 28/Sep/13 Lead
with daniel lee
DaveFidler 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dad
TonyF 10/Aug/13 2nd
with David
Si dH 20/Apr/13 2nd RP

Went to lead. Stayed left of the arete. Fell off the crux first time, pulled he ropes adn tried ground up, did the crux but then fell off just above. Neil then led it and I seconded.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 17/Apr/13 2nd
Alex@home 07/Feb/13 Lead O/S

had previously backed off and downclimbed from before crux so think i can still claim onsight. did it tall way - just

with The Doctor
w.pettet-smith ?/Nov/12 2nd

with escape combo as per rockfax topo. great footholds on crux! not easy though

with ben
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Neil McA 14/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Pedro
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

My 1st E3 lead, sweet! Ideal for a 1st E3 with good pro and 3 decent rests too, what more could you ask for?

with Matt
morganator 23/May/12 2nd
Martin Cooper 23/May/12 Lead

Fell again. L hand crimp about shoulder height. R hand BEYOND arete by 6 inches. step up onto small edges Bats in crack

with Nick, morganator
tom.e 01/Apr/12 Lead β
Graham C 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 21/Mar/12 Lead β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Neil McA 06/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with Jon Morgan
phil64 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with nick gillett
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 2nd
Wil Treasure 02/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't reach the hold doing the crux the tall way, and didn't fancy the alternative.

with Jon L
msoldn 24/Sep/11 2nd RP

Tried leading it after Pete backed off crux. Had several attempts either side of arete and almost had it, but head wasn't committing to final move on round sloper. So eventually top roped it to get gear back and this time got it first go, but still a huge struggle.

with Pete Millner
Chris_barr 21/Sep/11 2nd dog

Had to weight Rope to get walked cam.

Misha 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A great route, nicely sustained (though technical rather than physical) and managed to fee a bit scary even though there isn't that much hard climbing above gear. Did the version taking the LHS of the arete on crimps and slopers. Fantastic hidden jug at the top.

with Tom R
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/11 Lead
bigdrew 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
Mr Sparkle 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 31/May/11 Lead

One fall after crux - very annoyed. Foot popped...

Chad123 21/May/11 Lead RP

Bit of a disappointing effort as tried the long reach slab way loads with no luck then cheated and put a cam above the hard bit, then cruised the left arete way (should have gone that way first). Great climb with lots of good climbing, loved the hidden jug at the top! Very windy too which didn't help....

with Jo, Emily
akhughes 04/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead rpt
spidey 02/Apr/11 Lead


with Jimmy
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S

Deserves its three stars.

with Richard B, Andy S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
hamish2016 20/Oct/10 Lead
Andrew Barker 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Entertaining, I nearly blew the crux by not thinking about it and just going for it up the left-hand side of the arete. A consistently interesting route with a couple of good rests to help you along the way.

with Si
Dave Foster 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Has pretty much everything: chimney, traverse, mantel, smeary slopey layback arete, crimps, hand jams, nubbins and the need for faith in hidden jug. Brilliant.

with Andy
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead
highlux ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Uber classic! Did on a slimy hot day. Roll on cooler weather!

jamiev 04/Jul/10 2nd β
with Adrian Berry
natalietanzer 05/May/10 2nd O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 05/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/10 2nd
with Rich Cross
Hidden 06/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
bigie bob 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead
dominic lee 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
Hidden 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/08 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Al Evans ??/2008 -

Completely riduculous that Sutton climbed this as we now know it, it would have been the hardest and the most lauded route on grit. Sutton obviously traversed out much higher than Proctor!

The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 05/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 07/Jul/07 Lead β
with Simon Wren
Toby Dunn 25/Mar/07 2nd
with JulesV
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jul/06 2nd dog
Ram MkiV ?/Jul/06 Lead dnf

month a guess. went to do this after climbing on limestone earlier in the day. initially tried to limb LH side of arete but far too warm for such slopers so attempted the long man's reaching method which I duely fell off.

with Alex
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/05 2nd β
Iggy_B 27/May/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Shaw
Hidden 06/May/05 Lead β
mikeski ?/Aug/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead rpt
dominic lee 01/May/04 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd
lx ?/Aug/02 Lead


PaulTanton 31/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Gus ??/2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
Hidden 24/Jul/01 Lead
goi.ashmore 22/Apr/00 Lead O/S

In the rain

with Roy Thomas
tlr ??/2000 Lead
morganator ?/May/99 2nd O/S
with Stan Halstead
Steve Bell 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 19/Sep/98 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/98 Lead rpt
sadams 19/Oct/97 Lead
with John Fletcher
Hidden 05/Jun/97 2nd
Roget 14/May/97 Lead rpt

led on right, more like E4 6a, thin and scary.

with jon
Hidden 19/Apr/97 AltLd rpt
nokishatov 10/Mar/97 2nd O/S
ste_d 10/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with mik
clark alston ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with Steven Martin
Hidden 28/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/96 Lead rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Mar/96 2nd
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
pete johnson 05/Jun/94 2nd
with Bob Allen, Steve Findlay
NickJH ?/Oct/92 Lead O/S
with DWilliams, N Smart
Hidden 23/Aug/92 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Jun/92 2nd
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Kim Greenald
Roget 01/Jun/91 Lead rpt

left side

with jon
Roget 17/Jun/90 TR O/S

top rope on left, Jim then attempted leading and had to call at AnE on way home

with jim
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/90 2nd
with Perric Crellin
Chris Ellis 10/Mar/90 2nd
with Martin Veale
andybirtwistle 16/Apr/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1989 Lead O/S

nasty crux for a short arse, perhaps just nasty!

Hidden 02/Oct/88 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
Hidden 04/Jul/87 2nd
Eduardo Martinez 21/Sep/86 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 29/Jun/86 2nd
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 21/Jun/86 Lead
Neil McA 27/May/86 Lead dnf

Backed off.

with Dave Wills, Pete Gronbech
Hidden ??/1986 2nd O/S
John Marsland 13/Oct/85 TR
stp 26/Aug/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/85 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Dave Turnbull ?/Sep/84 Lead
charlesmfrench 19/Jun/84 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 08/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
keefe 05/Mar/83 -
Hidden ?/May/82 Lead
Hidden ?/May/82 Lead
jonathan shepherd ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/80 2nd
KRB 09/Sep/79 Lead O/S

Black cord on my moac on the footledge and a couple of good fingery moves make this a brilliant memory.

with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 09/Sep/79 2nd O/S

Excellent route,at the limit of my ability,managed it ok though,couldn`t reach the small flake,so had to make hard moves on the LHside.Top lead Kev.

Mike Owen 15/Apr/79 Lead O/S
with Keith Robertson
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
Steve Lewis 17/Sep/77 2nd β
with sharpie
petemeads ??/1975 2nd

Followed John on the 'modern' first ascent (on the left of the arete) as Tom's stretch was just ridiculous. Lead it myself a couple of years later, fairly straightforward & safe.

with John Allen
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set