Rockfax Description
The arete is usually approached from its right-hand side and is tricky at the roof. It can also be started from Solitaire. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown

Gambit 01/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rob Woon, Mark Leicester
dr_botnik 21/May Lead dog

Bit harsh as a warm up, misremembered the crux and nearly slipped off but jittered my way through then got spooked above and had to sit on a microwire just to make sure it was placed properly. Finished up the second pitch of pearly gates

Hidden 11/Mar 2nd
Chris Wright 11/Mar Lead rpt
with Dave Sarkar
James Thacker ??/2017 -
lanky 16/Oct/16 2nd
with Rich
mattlyons 07/Sep/16 2nd
harry_lewis ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Lyons
charley 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ange, Kev
Tithe Technique 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
scottcoates 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with williap
mrs milf 17/Jul/16 2nd
with John Cook
Deezel65 04/Jul/16 TR RP

Tried leading first but couldn't make the crux moves. The crux was much harder than I was expecting and really hard to read - other than that steady.

melv 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
williap 30/Apr/16 2nd
BigTone 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 13/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Brief attempt - backed off when I realised how polished crux foothold was!

Chris Wright 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Cake 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Bit scary at the top.

Phillhop 05/Sep/15 2nd β
James 1 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
eel 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan
JasonK 10/Jul/15 2nd
with Rich
rich_hw 09/Jul/15 Lead rpt
elfin girl 03/Jul/15 2nd dnf
with John Cook
Palmer 27/Jun/15 Lead β

5C ?

RM199 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tebs 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead
the power 16/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Too scared

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 16/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with phill ukc
dr_botnik 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Theo
jshields 13/May/15 2nd

Previous lead 2007

with Paul Tretheway
Brannock 09/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Canyak ??/2015 -
JayAyBee ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Pat
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
jazzyjeff 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Ed
eduardo 01/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Dogged last year, nice to get clean. Came here to avoid the evening midges of Froggatt for the last climb of the day.

Andy Peak 1 16/Jun/14 2nd
the power 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt

More direct this time

with Andy
WillDoyle 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JWB 31/May/14 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 31/May/14 Lead O/S

no where near 5c!closer to hard 5a/5b in my opinion,not really that impressed with it as a route

with chris Lyness, john beardmore
the power 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Felt desperate

Hidden 17/May/14 2nd O/S
phildawson 05/May/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 05/May/14 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 29/Apr/14 2nd

Couple of tricky moves but well protected.

with Tom martin
eel 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Spencer
spenser 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Took the roof direct with a fridge hugging approach, seemed to make more sense.

with Eve Lancashire
Andrew Sloan 05/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Haven't done this for a while, took a bit of time to figure out the moves through the crux. Started raining half way up!

dan_blair87 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 22/Feb/14 Lead rpt
Martin Haworth 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
masa-alpin 05/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Simon fell off at his first, but did it cleanly in his second attempt - his hardest trad (only for hours).

with Simon P
perrys 05/Sep/13 Lead dog

Took the wrong route and fell!

perrys 05/Sep/13 Lead RP

Took the correct route on the 2nd ascent and cleaned it.

Chris Wright 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
alp79 30/Jun/13 2nd
Guy Wilson 29/Jun/13 -
with Gavin Moy
samt 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Lucian
Andy Peak 1 15/Jun/13 Lead

Climbing like a jelly but still did it clean so must be easy:-)

with Andrew Deckon
dohart 14/Jun/13 2nd
with zippy
Jake Young 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
jwpil 27/May/13 2nd rpt
with Jake
Bullybones 30/Apr/13 Lead
with Nell
jwpil 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with liam
Apharri 25/Apr/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Neil R 17/Nov/12 2nd
with Tim
catblack 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Soft for e1 and 5c, but pleasent.

Tamati 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Wayne S 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/12 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 16/Jul/12 2nd
Jim Slater 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good though not quite as good as the photos on this site of Fiend climbing this. Turned out to be a bit of a one move wonder. Graded E1 5c in our guide but felt soft for both E1 and 5c.

Hidden 20/Jun/12 -
deacondeacon 17/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead RP
cem 12/May/12 Lead O/S
simonp ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
marcoleptic 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
biobuild 30/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Si dH 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Andy
bigdrew 07/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Si
johncook 01/Apr/12 TR

A lovely little arete.

lithos 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

took quite a while finding the gear and the holds post crux!

with tony holdsworth, pete harris
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Rob Stone, Peter Harris
ciaran1999 19/Mar/12 Lead
with saul
Brannock 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Martin led this, I finished up Pearly Gates as it was in the sun.

Martin Haworth 14/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
philhilo 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Still the worlds easiest E1! Cold out of the sun.

J.Wells 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 02/Aug/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Bill Lawrence 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with oaksi2
James Oakes 01/Aug/11 2nd rpt
nai 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
lamma_hippie 28/Jul/11 2nd
with Jon Lawton
JRae 12/Jul/11 2nd
chrism225 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First e1 in two years!

with jonny
ASchwirtz 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
al123 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

nice crux, easy for 5c, should really be 5b, especially as its at stoney.

with hannes
akhughes 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Tony Holdsworth 01/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Ian Holtby
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 04/Feb/11 2nd rpt

Very damp, very hard.

Martin Haworth 04/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Andy
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
LisaA 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd
James Oswald 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First E1! Having done first HVS the day before! Just a big pull and used the arete as an intermediate the left hand. A couple of hard moves

Hidden 02/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 14/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Neil Adams 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
pebbles 26/Jul/10 2nd
with phil
Ropeboy 23/Jul/10 -
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead
Cragrat Rich 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Ok climbing. Went pretty swell despite bad polish. I much prefered both Padme and that arete at the end of Windy buttress though! They were top notch HVS :)

Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 04/Jul/10 Lead
philb ?/Jul/10 2nd β

hard drizzle day with yorks climbing club

ColinD ?/Jul/10 Lead RP

Mind games trainer TR once.

philhilo 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Worlds easiest E1 5c (with peg and wires above head on crux)?

Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
DavidR 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fell off, but got back on and did the route.

tobydunford 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Sillum
mark20 30/May/10 Lead rpt
Simon Davenport 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
Andrew Barker 26/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chunk
Hannes B 23/May/10 2nd
with Chrissy, Robin
Tony Holdsworth 09/May/10 Lead rpt
with Richard White
greenclimb 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
highfivekrissy ?/May/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ollie B 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with J.Monypenny
mark20 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S


Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead
Justin T 21/Mar/10 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 14/Mar/10 2nd
duzinga 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

first lead of the season, nervous...easy for the tall.

with Omer
nacnud ??/2010 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Nick Sillem ??/2010 Lead O/S
Oliver Branagan 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Was aware the crux is not ideal for taller people, but enjoyed the move. Nice little arete.

with Miles M
James Oakes 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/09 -
Kirk 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Crofty, Guido
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd RP
Hidden 15/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
porridgefan 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Joe Ward
masa-alpin 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Balancy. Found few useful gear on my rack after the crux, as all of them had been already used before that point.

with Sirion
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead dnf
gordonday 24/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with clive
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
jamiev 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Adrian Richardson
thebigfriendlymoose 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Sankey 26/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Luke
smudge 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Wakefield
leepip 22/Feb/09 Lead rpt

sweet first E1

with al mason
LiamDobson 22/Feb/09 Lead β

Lead with gear in place

with Al Mason
rob1 22/Feb/09 Lead
Wood for Trees 22/Feb/09 Lead

Lead on Rob's gear after an epic of a belay. Went well enough, good rest before crux and a good move to pull through. Should of lead on my own gear but when its there its there and not so strenuous to place, not so important to the route and grade.

with Rob
Alex Mason 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

soft and pleasant.

gradbachmark 20/Nov/08 2nd
with peakphil
Peakphil 19/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Pilch 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

lead this many years ago and found it easy, a confident pull and its all done, good fun

with Ed
EdShep 15/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead rpt
Andrew Sloan 03/Feb/08 2nd rpt
Martin Haworth 03/Feb/08 Lead β
with Andy
pezzerrr 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/07 2nd O/S
HimTiggins 10/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
doug s 03/Jun/07 2nd
with mike
Mick B 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Guy Tooth
Mr Powly 02/May/07 2nd
tom.e 02/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Nicos 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Iggy_B 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Troop
ross1983 12/Mar/06 Lead O/S

Great climb, nice exposed position. Pretty good gear for its grade.

with Nick Heasman
Pythonist 14/May/05 Lead O/S
with Damian de San Miguel
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Richard White
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
robin heath 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Carl Riley
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead β
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
fellgazelle ??/2002 2nd
with Dave Fooks
skygodley 12/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Bunny
Phill Mitch ??/2001 Lead O/S
with gaz
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Neil R 28/Mar/99 2nd
with Richard W
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/98 Lead
with Chris Barnes
Neil R 06/Jul/96 Lead
with Richard W
Hidden 02/Apr/95 Lead
Roget 11/Dec/94 Lead rpt
with jon
ellie macpherson ?/May/94 2nd

Backed off on lead, once seconding, saw a crucial hold that I had missed previously; after this, straight forward but not too much in the way of gear

with Simon Hargreaves, Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis
tlr 19/Mar/94 Lead
with Adrian
Hidden 27/Feb/94 Lead
Roget 28/Nov/93 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden 16/May/93 2nd
Chris the Tall ?/May/93 TR
with Bill G
roncaves 20/Mar/93 2nd
with Shaun Quegan
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/92 2nd
Neil R 14/Apr/91 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden 13/Apr/91 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Mar/91 2nd
Hidden 24/Feb/90 2nd
Hidden 05/Feb/89 2nd
Hidden 05/Feb/89 Lead
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S
with AM
Rob Davies 23/Jul/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 10/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 -
sadams 02/Aug/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
steve taylor ?/Jun/87 2nd
with jon reti
Stoney Boy ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Solo
Hidden 30/Nov/86 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/86 Lead
Pete Pozman 08/Mar/86 2nd O/S

HVS 5a when we did it

with Jeremy (York)
ukb & bmc shark 11/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Mark Mitchell
Hidden 20/Apr/85 2nd
sadams 05/Apr/85 Lead
Hidden 23/Feb/85 2nd
Hidden 22/Feb/85 Lead
Rich Kirby ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
neilh 18/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with dave croker
KRB 05/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Nigel Bond 13/Nov/83 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
charlesmfrench 20/Mar/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/83 Lead
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden 30/Jan/82 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/81 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/81 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1981 Lead
with Rich Lewis (a.k.a. 'Dick Hairs')
Hidden ??/1981 -
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/80 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Chris Ellis 19/Aug/80 2nd
with Dave Crookes
jon 10/May/80 Lead
with nick
Bruce Kerr 02/Apr/80 Lead
with Geoff Sykes, Frank Hughes
Andy Fielding ??/1980 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Nov/79 Lead
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
uphillnow ??/1968 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 60
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set