400m, 15 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the pronounced southeast arete of Punta Fiames. The approach is somewhat arduous but the quality of the climbing soon makes up for this. Polished in places but well protected. The first four pitches are shared with the classic Via Dimai.
The route begins at the scree cone's highest point, in a small clearing below the right-hand chimney.
1-4) As for Via Dimai.
5) 100m. Follow the ledge easily right to reach the arete and the true start of the route.
6) IV, 35m. Climb the crack on the left then move right to follow a corner. Where this ends, traverse left to a good stance.
7) IV, 20m. Climb the face above, below a yellow roof. Traverse right below this to a belay.
8) IV, 20m. Move right then climb a gully.
9) V, 30m. Climb the featured but slightly polished slab aiming for a narrow crack above. Follow this from left to right to reach the top of a pulpit.
10) V, 25m. Continue up the compact and somewhat polished face left of a yellow roof via a crack. Continue up easier ground to a good stance.
11) V+, 40m. Climb easily to regain the arete. Continue past a possible belay and continue up the vertical face, following a narrow crack. Ignore a possible stance on the left and overcome the crack to the right to reach a stance below a pale triangular roof.
12) V-, 25m. Traverse right around the arete then climb a wide vertical crack on good holds. Continue up the featured face above.
13) Climb the face then move right over easier ground to a scree ledge. Move further right to reach a cracked corner.
14) IV+, 55m. Climb the corner then traverse left below an overhanging flake. Continue up easier ground, passing two large threads (possible belay) to exit onto the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA V+

Jori & Broske 19/Aug/1909

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
alpinist63 1 Jun AltLd rpt
Normunds 28 Jul, 2018 -
with Raita Reine
with Raita Reine
Abi Chard 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
JPSmith ?Jul, 2017 Lead G/U Great line with solid belays and good stances all the way. Worth stopping for lunch high on the arete on one of the main platforms.
with Neil Palfrey
Great line with solid belays and good stances all the way. Worth stopping for lunch high on the arete on one of the main platforms.
with Neil Palfrey
sebrider 19 Sep, 2016 Lead Too windy to paraglide so climbed this instead! Approach is quite quite wild, start up the scree gully where there is a Web cam etc installed. Proper good climbing did not start until the arete, rest was too easy and not great. The arete was fantastic, save the last pitch, which we thought was one of the trickier ones due to awkward climbing and decreased rock quality. Led the whole thing except the last 20m...more tiring than I had anticipated! The descent was straightforward. A really nice day out :)
with GregC
Too windy to paraglide so climbed this instead! Approach is quite quite wild, start up the scree gully where there is a Web cam etc installed. Proper good climbing did not start until the arete, rest was too easy and not great. The arete was fantastic, save the last pitch, which we thought was one of the trickier ones due to awkward climbing and decreased rock quality. Led the whole thing except the last 20m...more tiring than I had anticipated! The descent was straightforward. A really nice day out :)
with GregC
Dr Toph 16 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S 1hr30min. Lovely positions perched on the arete. Good rock on the whole, with difficulties mostly involving polished offwidths. Dont let that put you off though.
1hr30min. Lovely positions perched on the arete. Good rock on the whole, with difficulties mostly involving polished offwidths. Dont let that put you off though.
haydng 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with RMG
with RMG
masa-alpin 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S After a day of unintentional reccing, we four, undeterred, went back and climbed it in 15-ish hours from car to car. One of the, or maybe the, best mountain rock routes I have ever done, under the glorious weather! Almost any of the pitches on the arete proper was quality on its own! Climbed as 2 teams of 2, I paired up with Michelle, after Tony and Simon. Michelle lead P2, P4, P13 (the second last pitch), and I lead the rest, with P5 in moving together. Took still ages to figure out the right start, as the topo and description in RockFax guide at that part turned out to be very wrong.
with perrys, Tony H, Michelle A
After a day of unintentional reccing, we four, undeterred, went back and climbed it in 15-ish hours from car to car. One of the, or maybe the, best mountain rock routes I have ever done, under the glorious weather! Almost any of the pitches on the arete proper was quality on its own! Climbed as 2 teams of 2, I paired up with Michelle, after Tony and Simon. Michelle lead P2, P4, P13 (the second last pitch), and I lead the rest, with P5 in moving together. Took still ages to figure out the right start, as the topo and description in RockFax guide at that part turned out to be very wrong.
with perrys, Tony H, Michelle A
perrys 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Tony Hextall
with Tony Hextall
Hidden 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mike mo ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S no star start, 3 star finish - so 1.5 on average
with David Mooney, Ems
no star start, 3 star finish - so 1.5 on average
with David Mooney, Ems
Cheese Monkey 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 2,4,moved together 5, 7,9,10,11,12,13,14. Really good climbing but expected it to be a bit more exposed. Very little time on the arete. V and V+ pitches were absolutely excellent and well protected. Easy, fast and fun scree surfing descent all the way
with Iain
Led 2,4,moved together 5, 7,9,10,11,12,13,14. Really good climbing but expected it to be a bit more exposed. Very little time on the arete. V and V+ pitches were absolutely excellent and well protected. Easy, fast and fun scree surfing descent all the way
with Iain
Hidden 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Luis SD 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
ian d f ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Fran Sgr 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
with Jay C
Jay C 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
rlade ?Jul, 2013 -
with Chris Sansum
with Chris Sansum
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 Solo
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd O/S
cpoad 17 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome climb. John wasn't feeling well so I led all the pitches and I was well tired by the top. Amazing positions, wonderful exposed eagle-nest belays, fantastic views down to Cortina - It was so still we could hear the church bells ring.
with John S
Awesome climb. John wasn't feeling well so I led all the pitches and I was well tired by the top. Amazing positions, wonderful exposed eagle-nest belays, fantastic views down to Cortina - It was so still we could hear the church bells ring.
with John S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S 2 hour walk in from camping olympia. First half of the route is steady and not so tough, tho the unprotected traverse on a choss-covered ledge was a bit nervy. Second half takes the arete (ish) with some great belay positions and some tough moves here and there. Took the whole day, with a 2-hour descent including half a dozen via ferrata pitches, finishing down hundreds of feet of scree by headtorch. Quite a trip :-)
with Davey Boy
2 hour walk in from camping olympia. First half of the route is steady and not so tough, tho the unprotected traverse on a choss-covered ledge was a bit nervy. Second half takes the arete (ish) with some great belay positions and some tough moves here and there. Took the whole day, with a 2-hour descent including half a dozen via ferrata pitches, finishing down hundreds of feet of scree by headtorch. Quite a trip :-)
with Davey Boy
tallthinmonkey 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob Leuhman
with Rob Leuhman
Hidden 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
markfairbank 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Excellent day out, apart from the walk off via the scree slope from hell - not recommended in sandals! Done as 14 pitches, we were slowed up by some Italiens in front which meant we ran the thunder storm close! Also managed to drop 2 stitch plates!!
Excellent day out, apart from the walk off via the scree slope from hell - not recommended in sandals! Done as 14 pitches, we were slowed up by some Italiens in front which meant we ran the thunder storm close! Also managed to drop 2 stitch plates!!
SteveMyatt 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
with Mark Fairbank
Euan Strachan 2 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
John HW 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Had problems finding the start of the appraoch path (grade II - III) ended up bumping into a local guide who pointed us in the correct direction. Came down the footpath rather than the Kletterstieg.
with Cath
Awesome route. Had problems finding the start of the appraoch path (grade II - III) ended up bumping into a local guide who pointed us in the correct direction. Came down the footpath rather than the Kletterstieg.
with Cath
jonnie3430 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Graham, El Toro
with Graham, El Toro
Hidden 9 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
GraMc ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with kat torr, jonnie3430
with kat torr, jonnie3430
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
nathanlee ?Sep, 2009 2nd β
dominic lee 31 Aug, 2009 Lead
Dale ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Walked up with rob got to the start of route rob had forgot his water, I was a little angry as I had to share my 250ml of water, which was not anuf for a real hot day. The route is brilliant I somehow got all the hard pitches prob a good thing as I was a little quicker. Came down the gorge horrible hortible scree slope worste ever took us ages falling over all the way down and so dehidrated. When we eventually got to camp downed a load of water didn't help felt bad tge next day. O well what a gr8 experience
with rob
Walked up with rob got to the start of route rob had forgot his water, I was a little angry as I had to share my 250ml of water, which was not anuf for a real hot day. The route is brilliant I somehow got all the hard pitches prob a good thing as I was a little quicker. Came down the gorge horrible hortible scree slope worste ever took us ages falling over all the way down and so dehidrated. When we eventually got to camp downed a load of water didn't help felt bad tge next day. O well what a gr8 experience
with rob
Andy Clarke 8 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S A fine climb, which we'd spent most of a pretty wet fortnight looking at from the campsite. Delighted to get a good weather window at last and get it done. Not as exposed as you might expect, since it's not mostly on the crest of the arete, but plenty of good climbing. Nasty scree descent: tried to keep my mind off it by focussing on the forthcoming beer.
with James
A fine climb, which we'd spent most of a pretty wet fortnight looking at from the campsite. Delighted to get a good weather window at last and get it done. Not as exposed as you might expect, since it's not mostly on the crest of the arete, but plenty of good climbing. Nasty scree descent: tried to keep my mind off it by focussing on the forthcoming beer.
with James
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
alpinist63 30 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?Aug, 2004 -
with Gareth Tucker
with Gareth Tucker
Hidden 26 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
Antony Mariani ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
with rlrs
rlrs ?Jun, 2004 AltLd Only led 2 pitches.
Only led 2 pitches.
Wayne S ??, 2004 -
Martin Bennett 3 Aug, 2002 -
with MT
with MT
matthewjbellamy ?Apr, 2002 -
adamwesthead 12 Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1,3,5,6,8,11,13,15
with Hoult
Lead pitches 1,3,5,6,8,11,13,15
with Hoult
Stone Muppet ??, 2001 -
NickJH ?Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
uphillnow ??, 1986 Lead
with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
mark-abz 3 Aug, 1983 AltLd
with Walter P
with Walter P
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set