Rockfax Description
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade, and the air welcomes you.
The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing. © Rockfax

FA. T.Proctor, C.Winfield (rests) 1967. FFA. A.Rouse 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 15/Oct/17 TR dnf
Brannock 08/Oct/17 Lead dog

Faffed around placing to much gear, pumpe out.

JayAyBee 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Amazing route. I was nearly off about 4 times but somehow held on. Getting over the top mantel took me about 15 minutes.

with Pat
James Oakes 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Reversed to the ground after placing the small wire, had a rest then climbed to the break, reversed to the rest for a bit then fired to the top. Boom!

with Andy Nicholson
Seb Grieve ??/2017 -
Matt Cooke 23/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Super hot, super grim!

Andy Peak 1 31/May/16 TR

12 laps withe two on the left variance

Juicymite86 14/May/16 -
markalmack 10/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Got scared then pumped. Quested on through the top headwall passing all the gear placements, but never found a jug big enough to put any gear in off. Went pretty chill 2nd try.

jamiev 03/Apr/16 TR β
with Scott Richardson
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2016 2nd
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Fraser13 ??/2016 -
The old James turnbull 23/Jun/15 Lead rpt
deacondeacon 16/Jun/15 Lead G/U

One fall last week, fine today.

Andy Peak 1 10/Jun/15 Lead G/U

The best climb ever! Should of wormed up first, got to the brake and pumped out lowerd off. Second try, it turns out it dead steady. Happy

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 07/Jun/15 Lead G/U

2nd go. pumpy!

robertmctague 07/Jun/15 Lead β

Hard and great.

with Theo
Ram MkiV 06/Jun/15 Lead rpt
LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead dnf
jon_gill1 10/May/15 TR O/S

Found this very hard to clean first go and had no energy to climb after! you would have to be very strong and on form to lead this route! chuffed to get it on TR though!

with chris Lyness
bigdrew 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Dunc Frish, Ian Milward
phil64 ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
WillDoyle 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
eel 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Rachel Slater 07/Jul/14 Lead β

Lead after Tim. Some nice moves.

tim newton 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Misha 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Three years almost to the day since I dogged this last time. Felt steady this time round, still fairly tough getting onto and up the headwall but nothing desperate. Started climbing quickly as didn't have a lot of daylight left (actually finished at 9.40pm so still a good half hour left!) and a foot popped off a polished hold quite high up but below the first gear, held on but carried on with more care! Great route but the uber polish is a bit annoying. Six bits of gear including two in the break - that's plenty, no need for a large rack! Felt more like E3 this time. Evening session, escaped the midges at Chatsworth in the hope Stoney would be fine but it was still fairly midgy, worst I've ever had on limestone.

with Eszter
psborland 08/Jun/14 TR

Training day. Fun moves

Nick Sherring 08/Jun/14 TR

Training fun with Mark. Great route, must get better at jamming though!

tebs 14/May/14 TR rpt

Couple of laps on a top rope after taking a good old lead fall to keep me vaguely honest

with Tim
Duncan Campbell 13/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Oh dear. Found the boulder problem ok then got a bit gripped about the gear, got some in pushed on but got really pumped at the break. got a high wire but messed it up trying to get from the break, fell off and lowered off - had failed before I even started mentally. Will be back to finish this off.

with Bubbles
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
Wood for Trees 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt

felt harder than lead, few more times for fun, love it.

with Ben the rollerblader
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/14 Lead

Felt pretty steady. Nice moves above break.

mike mo ??/2014 -
lanky ??/2014 TR
with Crook
tebs 27/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Took a massive whipper on the first go today, from pretty much the top. Lowered down, pulled the ropes, had a rest then led it clean. Fairly tired by this stage.

with Burns
Wood for Trees 24/Jun/13 Lead

far from onsight but almost a flash, had bouldered around on the start last week and when Billy tried it but never popped for the ledge, first go when roped up with beta from Mark. Really really good climbing, flows like the best of 'em

Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead
samt 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nic Kidd
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd rpt
mark20 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead rpt
jwpil 26/Apr/13 2nd dog

man that's pumpy, non of the moves are all that hard, but they are all hard enough.

with liam
Apharri 25/Apr/13 Lead RP

Fell off really high onsight

with Dave Wharton
realbobsmith 24/Apr/13 Lead β

regular training hit

mgeek 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

friendly !

with Neill Busby
Bullybones 15/Apr/13 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead

Seemed like a grade apart from Bitterfingers, much easier (thank goodness!)

with Dave Brown
JBO 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Sketchy move at the start, hard to do without risking slapping to a bad hold. Just steep and pumpy to finish, didn't spot the big jug pocket though till I'd spent ages faffing about on rubbish holds fiddling in wires... Great route, proper stoney classic.

Haydn Jones 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Got hideously pumped on this, thought I was going to fall off topping out!

with pep
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead RP
belay bunny turned bad 05/Sep/12 Lead β

on Tim's gear

with loundsy
nai 09/Aug/12 2nd β
with Andrew
Hidden 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/12 TR
Cake 04/Jul/12 TR dnf

Got crux second go. Got my foot in the break at the roof

mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
J.Wells 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S

slimy, muddy and wet - glad not to have blown it!

tebs 30/May/12 TR

Over top-roped (x4) for training purposes. Good route for Stoney, great moves.

with Jon
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 20/Mar/12 Lead β
Graham C 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hannes B 09/Aug/11 Lead β
with Phil
bigdrew 07/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/11 2nd
Speeddemonsi 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
miastacey ?/Jul/11 Lead RP

At last - lead clean!

with Bob Smith
steve_yo ?/Jul/11 Lead
with steve f
alaan 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Misha 18/Jun/11 Lead dog

Had been wanting to do this for a while and got a proper kicking. Felt a bit tired after Medusa and Windhover (mostly Medusa actually) but doubt I would have got a clean ascent even if I had been fresh. Clean to the break, then had to have four rests and also took a sizeable fall from high up on the head wall (foot was in the pocket). Glad I got a good nut in the crack on the head wall! Goes straight on the list of routes to repeat clean. E4 5c seems right - no hard moves but not much below 5c either, plus run out where it matters (though it's not an E4 5c run out - the E is for Effort). Unfortunately Mike didn't have time to second before we had to go over to the Moon for Ian's birthday meal.

with Mike T
akhughes 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Adam Hughes
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
smudge 30/Sep/10 Lead RP

Couldn't touch it last year, so really glad to have done it. Really good route, just don't hang about on it!

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
dominic lee 11/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
Matt Fry 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR dog
rikbattye 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Theeni ?/Aug/10 TR dog
Bill Lawrence 25/Jul/10 Lead dnf

first e4 ive tried, not disappointed that i didnt do it as ive not even climbed e3 on limestone yet. more disappointed that i didnt keep a cool head on so i was just a being a fag. excited to get back on it in the near future though, the moves are definitely within my reach!

with Guy VG
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Sweet route! Could reach past the lower run-out crux. Pulled over the roof and completely got absorbed in the climbing - forgot to put any gear in the bomber crack, and found myself at the break mega runout. Just popped some gear low beneath me and nipped on up, brilliant bit of added spice!

Hidden 08/Jul/10 TR dog
Ed Booth ??/2010 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Bennykr 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Awsome route, crazy mantle at the top aswell, WOOOP

Alex Mason 31/Oct/09 Lead rpt

Couldnt resist doing this again. Always fun, juggy.

smallerrich 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Pumpy, polished and greasy. Pretty fookin awesome tho!

with Alex
bigie bob 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
Alex Mason 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt

On Andys gear (so essentially a solo ;D )

with Steve R & Andy G
andy gravestock 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

supurb climbing all the way exiting start brilliant finsh.

with steve,allex
Ram MkiV 16/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with al m & andy g
tuftynick ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
Franco Cookson OLD ?/Jun/09 Lead

fell off after a full day of pumped-ness. Came back the next day and found it quite soft.

Hidden 09/May/09 TR RP
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Pritchard
Hidden 09/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Lead dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Debbie Birch
philhilo ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ?/Jul/08 Lead

Had seconded this clean in 2007. Took a pisser off the top wall this time but lowered off, pulled the ropes and did it next go. Pretty pumpy.

with Chunk
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
morganator 04/Jun/08 2nd
with Andy Benson
skygodley 26/May/08 Lead O/S

Wow! that first bit of gear is a little scary!

Brown 20/May/08 Lead RP
with Henry
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
JulesV ??/2008 Lead rpt
with joe bawden
Alex Mason 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Cool route, juggy but pumpy with bomber gear, and a tricky pop at the start! :)

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 17/May/07 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Whitt 08/Apr/07 TR
with (Shunted)
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Gus 06/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with stadders
Carl Smethurst 18/Jun/06 TR
with Ian Pickles
Ram MkiV 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Had to do start dynamically which was exciting. Involuntarily cut loose at one stage thanks to the polish. Got cack-handed past the little roof/break and found swapping hands on the good pinch hold tough. All very memorable and exciting. Great pitch.

with Alex
Boy ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 09/Oct/05 Lead β
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/Apr/05 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
ukb & bmc shark 11/Dec/04 Lead rpt
with Mark Hundleby
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead dog
fellgazelle ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Fooks
Hidden ?/May/01 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
Carl Smethurst 29/May/99 TR
with Ian Pickles
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 14/Mar/99 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/98 2nd
with Chris Barnes
Hidden 18/Jul/98 Lead
craig h 05/Jul/98 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/96 Lead rpt
craig h 11/Aug/96 TR rpt
with Shunted
crossleysm ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S

x1 fall. The big one!

mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 04/Jul/93 Lead O/S

very polished

with KM
Roget 31/May/93 Lead O/S
with jon
robyn1 ??/1993 -
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 -
Billg ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
leathers 22/May/91 TR
Hidden 03/Mar/91 Lead rpt
Eduardo Martinez 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Apr/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/88 Lead O/S
Fakey Rocks ??/1988 Solo rpt

Top roped alot on shunt first. I remember shitting myself and asking myself why the f.. i was doing this at the last break, trying to reduce the sweat on my hands, b4 going for the polished mantle, !

Paul Clarke ??/1988 Lead
with Leeds Crew
Fakey Rocks 01/Aug/87 Lead G/U

2nd attempt. Pumpy

Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
uphillnow 25/Oct/86 2nd
with Al Bennett
Bruce Kerr 19/Oct/86 Lead
with Sandra Graham
keefe 03/Aug/86 -
with Johnny Adams
ukb & bmc shark 11/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Phil Loasby
Hidden 01/Jun/86 Lead
Mike Owen 05/May/86 Lead rpt
with Eric Rooseberry
rob.grafton ??/1986 AltLd
with barry maybank
sadams 30/Jul/85 Lead
with Robin Curley
Chris Wright 12/Jun/85 Lead
sadams 19/May/85 Lead

third attempt in two years

with John from London
Mike Owen 20/Mar/85 Lead rpt
with Lew Brown
Seymore Butt ??/1985 TR
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Andy Nicholson ??/1985 -
sadams 10/Jul/84 Lead dnf
with Pete Herrod
sadams 27/Jun/84 Lead dnf
with Pete Herrod
Dave Musgrove 23/May/84 -
with Kim Greenald
Mike Owen 20/Mar/83 Lead O/S
with Joe Healey
Gezzer ??/1983 2nd
with Andy Towne
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Mark Kemball 28/Nov/82 TR
Neil McA 31/Oct/82 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Jul/82 Lead O/S
Neil McA 06/Jul/82 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ?/Jun/82 Lead RP

After several attempts. Why was it ever graded E3?

with Neil Molnar (Noddy)
duncan ?/Oct/80 Lead β
Mark Kemball 31/May/80 Lead
with Steve Finch
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
petemeads ?/Aug/77 Lead

Lead with encouragement from Allen & Bancroft to the accompaniment of 'Apocalypse in 9/8' by Genesis. Needless to say I used the standard (at that time) 2 resting points, including the best MOAC in the world. John followed in bare feet, if I remember right.

with John Allen
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1977 Lead

Lead after a big fall from the break on first attempt onsight

rogerskews ??/1976 -
with Dane Atkins
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set