Rockfax Description
The wide crack is an intimidating struggle for most. Big gear, big arms and a strong will to succeed will help get you up it. Hidden holds in the crack are a great help too. © Rockfax

FA. L.Millsom, M.Rainey 1961

Ticklists: Wide Cracks, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, UK road to wide crack mastery.

Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf
Brannock 30/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Old school, beefy climbing, hvs

Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd dog
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Jul/17 Lead dog
Dominic Green 16/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Constant Solo 04/Jul/17 2nd dog


Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
BlueJohn 28/May/17 2nd dog
bryan61 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S

super strenuous, a fight all the way, good honest old skool climbing

with m meaney
Cake 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Very close to dropping. I used up all my hexes in the first 12m and would have used more if I had them. *** and nearly E2 to me

Jim Slater 05/Jul/16 Lead dog
melv 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
Hidden 25/Jun/16 2nd
Wizzy 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

quite scary without any big gear and only slippery cams

with the wizard of Birk Gill
Ardo 09/May/16 Lead dnf


with Geoff
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/15 2nd O/S
dr_botnik 03/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Andy
Hidden 03/Sep/15 Lead rpt
eduardo 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Still a physical struggle. Still not a good route as a warm up. At least 2 protracted rests. Disappointed I didn't do better.

with Ian W, Mark H
The Grist 12/Jul/15 2nd

This is not hvs (as it is in the new bmc guide). I found it pretty easy seconding.......but was relaxed enough to know how hard it felt. Definitely e1.

with Tom Doldon
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Not HVS 5a as per bmc guide. Also 2nd 05/Jul/2016 with Jim Slater

James Oswald 05/Jun/15 Lead
LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
Alex@home 18/May/15 Lead rpt

Still hate this route. Pretty pleased to get up it as a warm up though

with The Doctor
The old James turnbull 25/Apr/15 Lead
with rich howells
ashtond6 24/Apr/15 2nd O/S

This is a complete brute, unlike any crack I've done

Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
markalmack 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
WB 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Matt Cooke 13/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Jack.H.92 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with matt cooke
Rachel Slater 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Olli-C 12/Jul/14 Lead dog
Misha 30/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Ed had a right battle leading this one. Still a bit brutal in places to second! Polished but a great route.

with Ed, Phil
eduardo 30/Jun/14 Lead dog

Exhausting work for a warm up! Couple of rests...

philhilo 30/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Burly steep hand jamming with slippery feet, hard work.

with misha
Hidden 16/Jun/14 2nd
the power 16/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Climbed up climbed down haha fuck

with Andy
Stoney Boy 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Gould, Nick Conway
Derek Furze 02/Apr/14 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Nickc ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James Oakes 30/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead
Haydn Jones 11/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
lanky ??/2014 2nd
with Crook
masa-alpin 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Finally! The right choice for warming-up, as this route is expectedly physical for the whole body! HVS 5a/5b? Good route :-)

with Simon P
perrys 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 12/Jul/13 2nd β

Hard and grim... didn't enjoy this!

with Chris
Chriswallis2 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Broome
deacondeacon 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nails! Although power screams do help. Pumped solid and just scraped over the top. Harder than Dead Banana Crack?

samt 04/Jun/13 Lead
with Andrew Hart
braders94 02/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Rob Cooper, James Oakes
James Oakes 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Cooper, Brad Cowley
Hidden 07/May/13 2nd
Apharri 02/May/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 11/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/13 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Calder 08/Sep/12 2nd

Brutal. That or I'm shit.........

with Mark
Hidden 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 18/Aug/12 -
Hidden 18/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Quite the fight!

cookacat 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S

To get up this I employed a combination of cursing and foul language. Found the jams a bit shit.

with jamie s, Dafydd
Jim Slater 17/Jun/12 Lead dog

Rest on gear at overlap.

Gus 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
timmyhobby 21/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hannes B 20/Aug/11 Lead dog

a little tough that

with Emlyn
bigdrew 07/Aug/11 Lead dog
Jim Slater 07/Aug/11 2nd dog
Marti999 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Gary Jackson
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 28/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
catblack 19/Jul/11 2nd dog

I thought i could climb e1, i thought i could jam. damn this was hard.

with Si
Misha 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Excellent crack climbing, a bit burly in places and stiff for E1. One of the best grit jamming cracks is actually not on grit! Grond on the Cromlech is another one like that.

with Mike T
Mowglee 28/May/11 2nd
with Tom Nichols
Dan Lane 22/May/11 Lead dnf

a traditional climb for sure, wide cracks are not my thing and neither is dogging my way up routes so when i slumped onto gear i just lowered off. One to get back on when my jamming has improved!

with Laurie Carefoot
JRae 16/May/11 Lead dog

Tough, rested just before the wide crack. Pumped silly at the top and ran out of decent gear. Ace.

with P Latham
cymjt ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead RP
mark20 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

So pumped I was nearly sick

Hidden 06/Sep/10 -
haydng 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Mike, Hannah
migs493 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

And Hannah. felt very hard for E1

with Haydn
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 24/Jul/10 Lead dog

Rested. Rested. Fell off. Fell off. Then found the jug in the crack!

Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

mega pumpy and quite sustained at E1!! despite good gear and holds all the way. Was way harder than Minus Ten that we climbed in mistake for this before hand!

thomasadixon 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Nails, but very good fun.

with Graeme
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Rich Guest 20/May/10 Lead O/S

What a bastard! Had to fight like fuck. Some proper dodgy manoevers required, right to the final topout.

Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Phil Jennings 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with James Moneypenny
TonyF ??/2010 -
Bentwood ??/2010 Lead O/S
farmus21 31/Oct/09 Lead

Felt like the hardest E1 in the country...especially if you're weak like me.

with Tom 'Slippery Jack' Pienkowski
bigie bob 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead rpt
simonp ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Craig Devonshire
Hidden 20/Jun/09 -
Alex Mason 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Very good, very hard.

with Steve R & Andy G
andy gravestock 16/Jun/09 Lead β

found extremly challenging and nearly fell off due to climbing like a punter. bad times good route battled it to the end though.

with allex steve
Ram MkiV 16/Jun/09 Lead β
with al m & andy g
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Pritchard
tuftynick ?/May/09 2nd rpt
with miles gibson
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
Si dH 07/Mar/09 2nd O/S

A proper hard-work E1. Would be much easier if it was made of grit :)

with Neil Furniss
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
Graeme Smithy ??/2009 2nd

2nd Dale Holding lead foul route

with Dale Holding,
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/08 2nd
Mr Wild 20/Jul/08 2nd
with Greg
Hidden 05/Jun/08 2nd O/S
butterworthtom 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S


with Dave Naylor
joe larner 29/May/08 Lead O/S

HVS 5b? nice route anyway with some of the best Hex placements around, didn't bother taking any cams. Backed off couple of other routes due to rain.

TomHaigh 05/May/08 2nd dog
with Fraser
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Fraser13 ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
chris j 30/Sep/07 Lead dog
with Doug
jl 11/Aug/07 Lead dnf
with Brad
doug s 03/Jun/07 Lead
with mike
The old James turnbull ??/2007 Lead
with aiden
mattyork2 15/Oct/06 Lead β
with dave and pete
Nicos 15/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Dave Bond 19/Oct/05 Lead O/S
nige 07/May/05 Lead
with colin struthers
SR1970 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd dog
fellgazelle ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Fooks
cem 11/Mar/01 2nd dog
with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 31/Oct/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 14/Jun/97 Lead
tlr 18/Nov/96 2nd
with Andy M
Roget 08/Apr/96 Lead rpt

rained off at wilton

with jon
Colin Edwards 08/Feb/96 Lead dog

Fell from top pulled down a tv sized block which missed Simon by a few feet.

with Steve Trewella, Simon Gough Brown
Daniel Wrightson ?/Nov/95 Lead O/S

offwidth slimy horror

leadmat ?/Feb/95 -
leadmat ?/Feb/95 Lead
robtrooper ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/93 Lead dnf
Stoney Boy 28/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Roget 28/Feb/93 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
leathers 21/Apr/91 2nd
with James Thomas
Hidden 23/Mar/91 Lead
babymoac 04/Nov/90 Lead
with Angus
kato'sdad 13/Oct/90 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead dnf
wbo 01/Mar/90 Lead

Hard work

Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S

possibly lead at some point (and failed to follow as well!)

Hidden 05/Feb/89 AltLd
Hidden 05/Feb/89 AltLd
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
with Leeds Crew
Derek Ryden ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Mick Falzon
simon parish ??/1987 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 12/Sep/86 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
Andy Nicholson ??/1985 -
Martin Bennett 19/Sep/84 -
with JD
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jun/84 Lead dog
with Tim & Andy
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Neil McA 30/Oct/83 Lead O/S
with john ?
Dave Musgrove 20/Mar/83 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
charlesmfrench 26/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hammy 20/Jun/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Hidden 08/Mar/81 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1981 -
Hidden ?/Jun/80 -
duncan ?/Mar/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow 02/Dec/79 Lead
with Al Bennett
Hidden 24/Nov/79 Lead
Nigel Bond 05/May/79 Lead
with Andy Brown
Chris Terrey ??/1979 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Ian Jones ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S

Dead tiring.

with Derek Hersey
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/77 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/77 2nd
Mark Kemball 15/Oct/75 Lead
with Ian Grace
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
mikej 22/Apr/69 Lead

The tree was still in situ

with Bill Church
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set