Rockfax Description
The very polished curving crack and arete. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Moore, Geoff Birtles 1964

Ticklists: 50 cracks to Squamish.

Michael Morrell 29/Sep Lead
limejelly386 29/Sep 2nd
with Michael M
Mr Wild 27/Aug Lead rpt

Only had wires so struggled to find decent gear above the hard part of the crack. Chossy finish.

Hidden 27/May Lead dog
TobyA 27/May 2nd O/S
with SimonW
Lazer sk eh 21/May 2nd

sooooo polished. crap

coach_scb 21/May Lead
Hidden 13/May Lead
mike fenwick 13/May 2nd
bryan61 30/Apr 2nd
with m meaney
James Thacker ??/2017 -
Greg Cunningham 08/Jul/16 2nd
with nick warren
melv 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
Juicymite86 14/May/16 -
Hidden 12/May/16 Lead rpt
Alison Cairns 12/May/16 2nd

Failed on lead! Requires a determined approach - possibly a bit ambitious for this early in the season...

with hilary
Hidden 19/Apr/16 -
MikeLeeds 02/Apr/16 2nd dnf

Did Not Start. Kev had a mare on it, there had been too much rain making the cracks slimy, on top of it being a a polished horror already. Didn't look enjoyable so I passed.

James 1 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Tony Prendergast ??/2016 -
Hidden 08/Oct/15 Lead
Lukem6 30/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Elliot
rurp 22/Sep/15 Lead O/S

pumpy and slippy for a few feet. hard work

Andrew Sloan 12/Sep/15 Lead dog

Despite heavy drizzle starting half way up I actually managed for the first time to pull cleanly through the crux only to fall after pulling off a loose hold. Will I ever get this clean?!!! Despite being 3ft above my gear I took a 20 footer; Martin assured me that these things happen! Pulled my left biceps in the process.... 2 injuries in the space of 2 weeks. I've always thought this was a sandbag at HVS 5a.

with John Brannock, Martin Haworth
Jono_LS16 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rob Jarratt 02/Aug/15 2nd

Found it harder than I expected, nice route though.

with Bill McKee
eduardo 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt

'Ard for HVS, isn't it!

with Mark H
Happy Wanderer 18/Jul/15 2nd dog
with Ed, Mark H
Tom_Shill 04/Jul/15 Lead
Andy Peak 1 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Ha comedy loved the jamming and the heal hook:-) slippy hard and wonderful!

Antonio Ferra ?/Jun/15 2nd β
with Ellis
JEP 12/May/15 Lead rpt
ashtond6 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S

What a horrible yet awesome route, every cam placement skids around pointlessly, felt more like E2 5b due to this!

Stoney Boy 22/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Phil Cundy
Whitmoreaa ??/2015 -

Very, very polished, was a bit damp, so after rob took a massive whipper, I pretty much cried my way up. But somehow liked it

with Rob Rendle
Canyak ??/2015 -
irishguyinlondon 09/Nov/14 2nd dog

Polished jamming with wet cracks & difficult to place gear around the crux jams

with roo finlayson
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
louby 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Intro to stoney, not v stylish

chris_B 27/Sep/14 2nd
admackie 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

My second ever limestone trad lead, knew it was going to be a battle, all the gear in the bottom 8 metres or so is terrible and facing the wrong direction and there's no point putting cams in as they'd rip out. Took a very long time deciding if I wanted to embark up into the vertical section of the crack and eventually placed 2 bommer hexes, which I subsequently fell onto when I pumped out because i'd taken so long faffing trying to place gear that might stop me from hitting the ground, pretty painful jams because it's so polished, footholds on the crux are awful. Other than that a decent and enjoyable route despite the effort it took to get up.

treg 29/Jun/14 2nd
JWB 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Lyness
jon_gill1 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness, john beardmore
tim newton 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

fell off bitterfingers, so did this instead to get to the top. Quite polished, but maybe better for it as it forces you to jam it better

James Oakes 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Jules Lane 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Strenuous for 3 or 4 moves. Good lead by James.

Lumbering Oaf 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hoyes 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Jules L
spragglerocks 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
Derek Furze 07/Mar/14 -
Maddie 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Wussed out because it was wet and didnt trust the polished damp footholds at all

with spenser
keith leonard ??/2014 -
Palindrome 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
helenstuart 18/Aug/13 Lead dog

Polished polished polished

with Mike
Hannes B 30/Jul/13 Lead
with Phil
shouter 21/Jul/13 Lead
quickdrawmcraw 18/Jul/13 2nd
with alexander
Rockwarrior 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Matthew Crowford
jamie ward 08/Jul/13 2nd
with Shaun Lake
deacondeacon 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
the power 22/Jun/13 2nd dog

dragged up like a haul sack

with deacon
Nick Sillem 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
bclifton 06/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead
Jenny Clarke ?/Jun/13 2nd
with dave
matiamallia 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 25/Apr/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 2nd
Double Knee Bar 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
samt ??/2013 -
willackers ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

at night with head torch.

with pep
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
petellis 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Sloth
drcorbasisgod 27/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Marc Weisner
mrginna 10/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Neil, Ben Pinches
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hardcore Pat 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
chrism225 09/May/12 Lead O/S
JemG 08/May/12 Lead dog

Gottaa come back to do this. The gear: hex to start, blue just as you begin to traverse. a size 3 rock just before the fingerlock handhold on the horizontal crack. a size 8 rock goes well next and just under it a size 2.0 cam. At this point move to the arrete as the crack becomes paralell with the arrete. balancy move but to better holds... just feel around and they'll be there. size 6 rock in the constriction beneath the excellent finger lock/jug. cam above size 3? once your at crack t-junction easy. 2 cam here better to the right. size 5 rock 2 metres above. on right

Karl Wooffindin 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route. Enjoyed the moves on the crack particularly

with Bryce Rigler
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
CRiddiford 14/Aug/11 Lead

on andy's gear, suprisingly fun!

with Andy, Mark
bigdrew 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nothing wrong with this route. Really enjoyed it despite the horror stories I've heard..

Mr. K 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Mr. K 07/Aug/11 2nd rpt
James Oswald 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Lead after Kyle retreated. Really hard for HVS, brutal! I actually enjoyed it. A medium cam was useful for protecting the move into the groove. Nice route.. Kind of

IAmAStone 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Charlie Jefferson
mattwyles1 12/Jul/11 Lead dog

Use the arete you fool, it even says so in the guide.

with Joe
Joe Costello 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
rikbattye 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt

in the dark with headtorches!!! and its bloody hard in the daylight!!

mark20 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Led it so I never have to do it again - grim

J.Wells 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with andy
Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Garry Jackson
Luke Brooks 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 01/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Ian Holtby
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
LisaA 09/Oct/10 Lead dog

outragously soggy sandbag. Alistair not happy.

richardhopton 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Matt Thombs
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
JEP 10/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
max_chan 05/Aug/10 2nd RP

Got very pumped and very spooked on this - polished. Lowered off and Steve lead it.

with Steve Carty
Jim Slater 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 05/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Stuart_Burbidge 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Martin Cleaver
richardhopton 02/Aug/10 Lead
with Martin Cleaver
dan gibson 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt

still felt technically soft for the grade with perfect jams, good mind.

with Jim
Graeme Hammond 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S

thought this was really nice and well worth a star if not 2. One to come back and lead and see if it still feels soft at HVS as it did on 2nd

with Rob
Ketu 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 21/May/10 Lead dog

Limestone is pumpy and Im unfit :(... 1st time I ripped a cam aswell

Guy Atkinson 21/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 21/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead rpt
Birdo 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Daniel Wicks
Ollie B 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with J.Monypenny
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mark20 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S


Tithe Technique 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

A nice warm up HVS... well.. until I got too pumped and fell onto a tricam... My first fall onto gear.. Tricams are my new best friend... I love you tricam...

chumleywarner 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

so hard

metal arms 13/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
dan gibson 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Andrew Sloan 25/Oct/09 Lead dog

Dogged it again!

howlingbaboon 11/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Ady
Hidden 11/Oct/09 2nd
greenclimb 04/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Si dH 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Neil and Chris
caradoc 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with john b
Mike Todd 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
Adam Potter 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 2nd
nathanlee ?/Jul/09 2nd β
cem 21/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Pete Horn
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17/Apr/09 Lead dog

If you're no good at hand jamming, you'll get spat off this like I did today!

with Steve Grove
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead rpt
greenclimb 11/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Harry Thorpe 08/Oct/08 2nd dog

Hard and polished

with Kieran
lukea 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

polished, wet and loose. perfect.

with sam
roberto18 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Mr Wild 20/Jul/08 Lead
with Greg
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
TomHaigh 09/May/08 Lead O/S
with Paul Winders
Hidden 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Jim Slater 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead dog
Glynn ?/Aug/07 2nd

Bloody 5a fat lad strugles makes grunts and other unexplainable noises pushes for the top to see exhausted belayer in rapti=ures of laughter. Bloody good route and worth the 5a. Can we trim back the trees ?

with Neil
Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Andre & Adrian
smudge 25/May/07 Lead
with Dom
Hidden 19/May/07 2nd O/S
climber130887 19/May/07 Lead dog
Andrew Sloan 28/Jan/07 2nd rpt
Martin Haworth 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Peakpdr ??/2007 -
with john
mattyork2 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Si dH 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Didnt have guidebook, just picked htis out as a nice line and guessed the grade perfectly :) Its a bit pumpy and the jamming is painful in places, but a good route - how HVS 5a cracks should be. Beware the lower section especially is polished to a fine sheen!

with Neil Furniss
Nicos 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
cem 26/Feb/06 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead
Sam and will 20/Jul/05 Lead dnf
with Anthony Bennett
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 04/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Phil West 25/Jan/04 Lead dnf

Too Cold. too Crap.

with Chris Tan
Hidden 06/Nov/03 2nd
fellgazelle ??/2003 Lead rpt

First climbed it with Dave and Ann Fooks sometime in the 90s

with Ian Waterhouse
Laramadness 09/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with CEB
Brown 19/Jul/01 2nd
Mark Riley ?/May/01 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
cem 11/Mar/01 2nd
with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave, Pete
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 24/Jul/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Phill Mitch ??/1999 Lead O/S
with gaz
Chris Ellis 21/Aug/98 Lead
with Johnathan Burgess
FrankW 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Unknown
Carl Smethurst ?/Feb/98 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 12/Oct/97 Lead O/S
colin milton 18/Jul/95 Lead dog
with eric milton
Roget 28/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
Martin Bennett 26/Jun/92 -
with Glenn, SF
Steve Crowe 11/May/92 2nd O/S

Karin led this one.

with KM
Hidden 12/Apr/92 2nd
nai ??/1992 2nd
rob.grafton 27/Oct/91 -
with Bruce
malc 10/Aug/91 Lead
roncaves 18/May/91 Lead
with Ed Hyatt
leathers 03/May/91 Lead
with James Thomas
John Marsland 19/May/90 Lead
with Mark
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/87 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Mar/87 2nd


Hidden 03/Jun/86 Lead
Stoney Boy ??/1986 2nd
with Phil Cundy
Hidden ??/1986 -
babymoac 05/Oct/85 Lead
with MTW
Neil R 24/Jun/85 Lead
with Richard W
sadams 04/Apr/85 Lead
Chris Wright 19/Mar/85 Lead
jcw ??/1985 -

And again March 1995

with Martin Harris
charlesmfrench 24/Nov/84 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 19/Sep/84 -
with JD
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Bulls Crack ??/1983 Lead O/S
with RW
neilh ?/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with dave croker
Gezzer ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
mark-abz 03/Oct/81 Lead
with Pete T
Hidden 19/Jul/81 Solo O/S
tapley 28/Jun/81 Lead
with Chris Seymour
Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Hidden ?/Sep/80 Lead O/S
jon 17/Feb/80 Lead
with henry
Nic Robinson ??/1980 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
duncan ?/Nov/78 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/77 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/77 2nd
Nigel Bond 08/May/76 Lead
with John
Mark Kemball 14/Feb/76 Lead
with Mark Pearce
Hidden 23/May/75 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1975 2nd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
uphillnow ??/1974 Lead
with Al Bennett
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 12/Mar/72 Lead
greenbuoy 10/Jul/71 2nd
bob@daysmill ??/1971 2nd β
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
Seymore Butt ??/1970 -
mikej 10/Nov/68 Lead
with Wil Hurford
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High E1
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High VS
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Votes cast 63
High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 63
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