Rockfax Description
The right-hand groove gives steady, open climbing and bridging, on polished holds, with loads of gear. Amazingly, the route was originally graded Exceptionally Severe. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Moseley 1952

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, UK Classic Corners, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

robert-hutton 16/Oct/17 -
Luke90 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Liz
Stroppy 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Elizabeth Allen 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
ian d f 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Tor
slab_happy 21/Jul/17 2nd
with Val
dashby 18/Jul/17 2nd

Another super climb in the VS grade.

with sam root
AndyRogers 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Steep. Pumpy and awkward at times. Though beautiful flowing moves too, glad to get it clean. Top end vs without a doubt.

with Damo
TobyA 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

In full sun - hottest day of the year! A wee bit sweaty but good exposed climbing made enjoyable by loads of gear and solid jams.

with Tim
ned_85 15/Jun/17 Lead
with Richard Crosby
Gambit 15/Jun/17 Lead

Harder than expected

with Neil WC
Kimmie 11/Jun/17 Lead dnf
BlueJohn 01/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/17 2nd O/S
scotty88 24/May/17 2nd
with Greg
GregClixby 24/May/17 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 22/May/17 Lead
Caroline_Schofield 22/May/17 -
Hidden 06/May/17 Lead
planetmarshall 06/May/17 2nd
with Clive Betteridge
the power 18/Apr/17 -
Hidden 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
coach_scb ??/2017 -
kwaidy 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with sting
sting 08/Oct/16 2nd
with kwaidy
Tony Kartawick 24/Jul/16 Lead
Fred Lazell 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with jack knight
Jack93 13/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Not very good...

admackie 08/Jul/16 Lead
with kev
max_chan 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lou
BTphonehome 11/May/16 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
will9911 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S
rurp 22/Sep/15 Lead O/S


with bill farmer
James Lowe 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Holds everywhere. Gear everywhere. A couple of moves where you have to think and commit. Incredible. Loved it

with Fran
Ben Turner 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Awsome and susstained 4c magnificent

with Kenneth North
john lynch ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Joe Holden
Canyak ??/2015 -
georgenvk 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/14 2nd
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 11/Jul/14 -
Deezel65 09/Jul/14 2nd rpt

With Kyle

GermanAlex 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

no single hard move, but no easy ones either. thank God for the solid jams and bridging rests! the wall below has some recent rock scars, is loose as and dodgy. going up the big crack on the l.h.s. might be a better idea?

with Arno
Hardcore Pat 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie, Dan Osbasabooboo
Different Steve 21/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Jeremy
jshields 18/Jun/14 Lead

Previos lead.

TonyF 18/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead
ash longreach ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 15/May/14 Lead rpt
with Maia
Phill Mitch 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with bleggs
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Jules Lane 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, slightly strenuous.

Batt 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hoyes 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Jules L
cragtyke 04/Mar/14 2nd
with Ross
Deezel65 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S

No walk in the park

Hidden ??/2014 -
Eagertom 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

In spite of the crack the route follows I struggled from time to time placing gear. Big nuts were too small for the main line, far too big for anything else. Still, a good start to the day, and a nice view from the (well protected) belay seat.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
the power 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

1st peak limestone lead good fun

with deacon
blaza1 ?/Apr/13 2nd
Guy Wilson ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Gavin Moy, Rick Cotgreave
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
samt ??/2013 -
Andrew Sloan 18/Nov/12 2nd rpt
with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Sloan
treg 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Lynsey
FloTilley 23/Aug/12 2nd β
Andrew Lodge 13/Aug/12 2nd
with Steve
Tony Ryland 13/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
treg 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Unlike others, I found the lower wall below the start of the groove enjoyable and protectable, and neither was the climb too polished (especially compared to other routes at Stoney). Very enjoyable sustained VS 4c climbing with a couple of tricky moves around 2/3 of the way.

with Bird
Graeme Hammond 05/Jul/12 2nd rpt

good route but the leader was so unreasonable in wanting to stay safe and the proceeded to placed so much gear I had to take out... unfortunately we got caught in a massive thunder storm on the way down so the one and only route of the evening.

rich_hw 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

The only thing that detracted from this route was my seconder complaining that I placed too much gear!!

Fragmod 17/Jun/12 Lead
cragtyke 17/Jun/12 2nd
Milne 29/May/12 Lead O/S

found this a right battle, bit loose and very dirty in places.

Hidden 29/May/12 2nd
aldred 14/May/12 2nd dnf

Epic rain

Hedley 14/May/12 Lead O/S
Marq 11/May/12 Lead dog

Did direct start and fell off when hold broke on the loose lower section!

Hidden 11/May/12 2nd
Dan Lane 06/May/12 2nd O/S
David Kay 06/May/12 Lead O/S

First climb at stoney. Good sustained VS climbing.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Tony Holdsworth 11/Nov/11 Lead rpt

after this it got dark and the mist came down even lower.

with Tom Reed
Si dH 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Alison Ingleby
victim of mathematics 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Good, chunky climbing

bigbirdflying 23/May/11 Lead
with Chris Brook
James Oakes 21/May/11 Lead O/S

A really hard but quality VS.

mark20 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Mar/11 2nd
Andrew Sloan 04/Feb/11 Lead rpt

First 30 ft loose and poorly protected.The main groove is sustained 4c but well protected.

cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
Hannes B 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Bella
Hoyes 10/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Batt 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Slippy as... Other than that pretty steady. Didn't seem to have a specific crux just lots of fairly sustained bridging on either glass or tiny edges, use the latter.

andrea83 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very good. Lots of gear. Started up the loose bit in front of route which wasn't so good

with Peak CC
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 01/Jul/10 2nd
with Alfie
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
lucasp 12/Jun/10 Lead dog

The approach was loose and horrible. The route was sound but found it hard and intimidating so had to take a rest.

with kev (lmc)
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd rpt
tobydunford 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Sillum
Oliver Houston 21/May/10 Lead dog

Esoterical and I was already pumped...

caradoc 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with john b
Phil Jennings 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Anna Jennings, James Moneypenny
TonyF ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Mitchell, Rich Cutsforth
daveclarke5 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Andy
howlingbaboon 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Wid, Page
Ketu 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S

much better once i went up the the chimney to access the route (is this what the guide ment as the scramble??? its easy enough but not a scramble, previously tried to climb the loose wall directly under the route, almost did but backed off

with Rob
IAmAStone 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jefferson
Hidden 30/Jun/09 2nd
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 04/May/09 Lead O/S

good plenty of intrest all the way to the top

with liebor
Pilch 02/May/09 Lead O/S

An excellent pitch, getting to it is horribly loose though with no meaningful gear.

with Ed
EdShep 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
thebigfriendlymoose 26/Apr/09 2nd β
with Stephen
Sankey 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route, with a well positioned finish...escaping the polish as well

with Luke
mike fenwick ?/Mar/09 Lead
with Ian Moore
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
smudge 23/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Phil
Phil1967 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Well protected but sustained VS - 4c after 4c

with Dan
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
jadm2 03/Aug/08 2nd
with Alan
Andrew Barker ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Month a guess.

with Jack Symmons
smudge 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Sustained climbing, fantastic route, not too polished!

with Will G
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
BenJacobs 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Dw
Jim Slater 05/Jan/08 Lead dog

Tough VS. Rested on gear.

Hidden 05/Jan/08 2nd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 31/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hardonicus 31/Jul/07 Lead
Jack Symmons ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Andy B
Dave Mason 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Andre & Adrian
Hidden 19/May/07 2nd O/S
climber130887 19/May/07 Lead O/S
roberto18 14/Apr/07 2nd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd
Sidekick ??/2007 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
bigphil 16/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Calum
Nicos 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
robin heath 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S

nice route. polished hold in middle. dont bother climbing the loose/grassy stuff below, solo the big crack on the left to the ledge instead, (v,diff).

with Carl Riley
JulesW 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Nig
cem 26/Feb/06 2nd
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/04 2nd β
fellgazelle ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Dave Fooks, Alan Haigh
dicky79 ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/03 2nd
with ???????????????
Brown ?/Jul/03 Lead
with Jessika
Hidden 11/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Phil West 18/Apr/03 Lead

One rest after the crux. Too early for this!

with Chris Tan
SteveM 01/Mar/03 Lead
with Tobs
dicky79 ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Eddie & Katie
Hidden ?/Aug/02 -
jamiev ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
Hidden 04/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 20/May/01 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Rich Malcolm 16/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead
FrankW 16/May/98 Lead O/S
with Unknown
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
kato'sdad 05/Oct/97 Lead
RobSimmo 05/Oct/97 2nd O/S
CrashMat Rob 26/May/97 Lead O/S
with Terry
Chris Murray 14/Apr/97 AltLd

Led the easy 1st picth.

with Richard Bower
Tim Bateman 30/Jul/95 2nd
Chris Ellis 05/Jul/95 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
colin milton 07/May/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Daniel Wrightson 26/Feb/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
leadmat ?/Feb/95 -
leadmat ?/Feb/95 Lead
Roget 09/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
EcoClimber 26/Mar/94 2nd O/S
marcoleptic ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Hank, Mel
John Marsland 18/Aug/93 Lead
with Darrell Small
roncaves 20/Mar/93 Lead
with Shaun Quegan
Marti999 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Paul Ross
Budge ?/May/92 2nd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
rob.grafton 27/Oct/91 -
with Bruce
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/91 AltLd

Welcome to Shiney Middleton. V polished

with Graeme Jarvis
andy tetsill ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Joy
Neil R 13/Apr/90 2nd
with Howard
wbo 12/Mar/90 Lead
leathers 30/Apr/89 2nd
with Unknown
Hidden 08/Apr/89 Lead O/S
BigHairyIan 11/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 17/May/88 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/88 2nd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
with Leeds Crew
simon parish ??/1987 Lead
steve taylor ??/1987 2nd dnf
with phil cockrell
Hidden ??/1987 -
Stoney Boy ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
Rob Davies ?/Apr/85 2nd
with Mick Moss
Hidden 17/Feb/85 Lead
Chris Wright 14/Feb/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
malc 08/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/84 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Lone Rider ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
The Reaper 09/Apr/82 Lead O/S
babymoac 30/Jan/82 Lead
with MTW & Paul R
Bulls Crack ??/1982 Lead O/S
with RW
Martin Bennett 14/Oct/81 -
with JD
mark-abz 03/Oct/81 Lead
with Pete T
beaumap 09/Jun/81 Lead
with Bernie Green
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead
Hidden 07/Feb/81 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
telemark ??/1981 2nd
with Jim Sutherland
duncan ?/Aug/80 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 21/Jun/80 Lead O/S


Hidden 04/Apr/80 -
Neil McA 26/Jan/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1980 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Chris Ellis 01/Jul/79 2nd
with Dave Crookes
tapley 29/Jul/78 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 08/Apr/78 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/78 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/76 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/76 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 08/May/76 Lead
with John
Mark Kemball 26/Apr/76 Lead
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
rogerskews ??/1976 Lead
Hidden 26/Jan/75 2nd
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
mikej 21/Mar/74 Lead
with Stewart Grant
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
mikej 09/Apr/72 Lead
with Barbara Sharratt, E
greenbuoy 26/May/71 Lead
with Bob Lister
bob@daysmill ??/1971 Lead β
lump'o'lead ??/1971 -

Beautiful route, just the right stuff for me. LOvely lovely jamming all the way.

with Jeremy Nightingale
mikej 04/Apr/70 Lead
with E, Martin Wragg
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
Seymore Butt ??/1970 Lead
with Keith Roberts
jcw 11/May/69 -

Also Jan 1980 with Martin Harris. Also April 1981 with Mike Harrop

with David Unwin
Hidden 27/Apr/69 2nd
mikej 11/Apr/69 Lead
with Bill Church
Dave Musgrove 09/Mar/69 Lead
mikej 14/Sep/68 Lead dnf

Pouring with rain but I still climbed to the half way break before retreating.

with Nigel Sumner
mikej 12/May/68 2nd
with Nick West
mikej 28/Feb/68 Lead
with Brian Norris
tutbury ?/Feb/68 -
with Mick Quinn
uphillnow ??/1968 2nd

lead variously since

with Nigel Helliwell
mikej 25/Mar/67 Lead
with Ted Markham, Nigel Sumner
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 63
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set