2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position.
1) The first pitch is loose and vegetated but still gets climbed. Alternatively, use one of the new sport pitches to gain the break.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up to the main break - don't be tempted by the bolts up and left. Follow this leftwards to gain the hanging groove. Ascend this on superb holds in an amazing position. The most exposed VS at Stoney. Abseil off or walk down. © Rockfax

P.Nunn , M.Richardson 8.1.65 08/Jan/1965

Feedback

UserDateNotes
FelixPeterken 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is very overgrown. Was not very comfortable teetering up a mossy and loose slab with no gear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is very overgrown. Was not very comfortable teetering up a mossy and loose slab with no gear
roberto18 17 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Probably my favourite on stoney,first pitch is ok, not much gear (easy 4b). second pitch is an absolute must for the experienced VS leader, good holds, good gear but the postion makes it hard for VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably my favourite on stoney,first pitch is ok, not much gear (easy 4b). second pitch is an absolute must for the experienced VS leader, good holds, good gear but the postion makes it hard for VS.
rc 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch was a jungle so we started along the girdle which was fine but fairly smelly (literally). Top pitch is choss, albeit in a nice position.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch was a jungle so we started along the girdle which was fine but fairly smelly (literally). Top pitch is choss, albeit in a nice position.
tog (Donny) 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch looks way too overgrown at the minute. Did first pitch of the girdle today, then finished up Evasor. Excellent but not recommended for beginners though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch looks way too overgrown at the minute. Did first pitch of the girdle today, then finished up Evasor. Excellent but not recommended for beginners though.
Stu Tyrrell 17 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Great position for the grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great position for the grade!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
daveclarke5 15 Sep AltLd
with Stephen
with Stephen
FelixPeterken 23 Jul Lead Not worth it, just stick to the grit and you'll have a much better time. Bottom pitch was done on sport because I valued my life, and the top pitch had a nice position but was overshadowed by the chossy holds and disgusting top out onto a 45° mud bank and gorse bushes. Left stoney straight after this route and went to froggat instead.
with Balliol climbers
Not worth it, just stick to the grit and you'll have a much better time. Bottom pitch was done on sport because I valued my life, and the top pitch had a nice position but was overshadowed by the chossy holds and disgusting top out onto a 45° mud bank and gorse bushes. Left stoney straight after this route and went to froggat instead.
with Balliol climbers
OliverRoss 15 Jul Lead O/S
with Fay
with Fay
Alex Hyde 29 Jun Lead O/S Linked both pitches together, wouldn't recommended this approach as the rope drag becomes horrendous, (had to ditch one of the ropes) also all falling near the top would result in an insane amount of rope stretch! The second pitch is awesome however it looks like I may have finished up the wrong way as it was an absolute terrifying choss-fest with plenty handholds coming away....
Linked both pitches together, wouldn't recommended this approach as the rope drag becomes horrendous, (had to ditch one of the ropes) also all falling near the top would result in an insane amount of rope stretch! The second pitch is awesome however it looks like I may have finished up the wrong way as it was an absolute terrifying choss-fest with plenty handholds coming away....
Hidden 29 Jun 2nd O/S
JayAyBee 19 May AltLd O/S Did creamsnatcher for P1 (great combo). Amazing exposure on P2.
Did creamsnatcher for P1 (great combo). Amazing exposure on P2.
Ghost 28 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Horrible first pitch (stay left) but fantastic second pitch. Would give it 2 stars if it wasn't for the first pitch!
with Jim
Horrible first pitch (stay left) but fantastic second pitch. Would give it 2 stars if it wasn't for the first pitch!
with Jim
pedrosanpb 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Tony Ryland 9 Jul, 2018 2nd Great climb, out there but good holds
with Pete Brown, steveshaking
Great climb, out there but good holds
with Pete Brown, steveshaking
steveshaking 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd This time I led the 1st pitch and Pete the second. First pitch is run out and improbable ie I was a bit scared. Second pitch is wonderful. Lovely climbing. Great positions.
with Peter Brown, Tony Ryland
This time I led the 1st pitch and Pete the second. First pitch is run out and improbable ie I was a bit scared. Second pitch is wonderful. Lovely climbing. Great positions.
with Peter Brown, Tony Ryland
ManuelS 19 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Replaced P1 with one of the sport pitches (Creamsnatcher?) Good combo!
Replaced P1 with one of the sport pitches (Creamsnatcher?) Good combo!
James Thacker ??, 2018 -
AndyRogers 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd I led the heroically terrifying poorly protected and pretty shit gardening pitch 1. J led p2. 2nd ascent for me. It's all about p2.
with Jordon , Blue
I led the heroically terrifying poorly protected and pretty shit gardening pitch 1. J led p2. 2nd ascent for me. It's all about p2.
with Jordon , Blue
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2017 2nd
Small and weak 13 May, 2017 Lead bolted direct start
bolted direct start
Colin Scotchford 23 Apr, 2017 Lead pitch 2 after starting up creamsnatcher
pitch 2 after starting up creamsnatcher
James Thacker ??, 2017 -
Damo Grimley 28 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Overgrown slippy very cold
Overgrown slippy very cold
AndyRogers 28 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Damo led p1 via four thousand as prescribed here. Felt like a mini epic traversing back into the break. P2 is utterly fantastic, massive sustained exposure and huge holds with tonnes of gear. What's not to like!
Damo led p1 via four thousand as prescribed here. Felt like a mini epic traversing back into the break. P2 is utterly fantastic, massive sustained exposure and huge holds with tonnes of gear. What's not to like!
GermanAlex 25 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S In one pitch, which was a mistake. The first 15m or so were a vegetated, slimy slide, the top is fantastic.
with Clay C
In one pitch, which was a mistake. The first 15m or so were a vegetated, slimy slide, the top is fantastic.
with Clay C
Hidden 25 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
ned_85 7 Sep, 2016 Lead
with Elliot Baker
with Elliot Baker
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Steve Vincent 3 Sep, 2015 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Russ 28 Aug, 2015 Lead
steven24584 ?Aug, 2015 Lead G/U
Rob84 18 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Ben Wolstenholme, Rob Adie
with Ben Wolstenholme, Rob Adie
adie84 ??, 2015 -
The Reaper 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S 2nd pitch only
2nd pitch only
Phill Mitch 27 Apr, 2014 AltLd rpt
with bleggs
with bleggs
Martin Haworth 16 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 Creamsnatcher, pitch 2 Evasor. Very worthwhile combination.
Pitch 1 Creamsnatcher, pitch 2 Evasor. Very worthwhile combination.
Brannock 16 Feb, 2014 2nd rpt After Creamsnatcher.
After Creamsnatcher.
marconi 21 Jan, 2014 2nd
admackie 21 Jan, 2014 Lead
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Roget 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with robin
with robin
Robin Nichols 6 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
madasten 21 Sep, 2013 Lead Dirty, slimy, snappy first 10 meters of the first pitch are made up for by the next 10 meters of pleasant climbing. Second pitch is simply amazing - interesting climbing on great holds in an astounding position! Unexpectedly, I'd say it's slightly easy for VS but a brill route to take Rick up for his first ever limestone trad!
with Rick
Dirty, slimy, snappy first 10 meters of the first pitch are made up for by the next 10 meters of pleasant climbing. Second pitch is simply amazing - interesting climbing on great holds in an astounding position! Unexpectedly, I'd say it's slightly easy for VS but a brill route to take Rick up for his first ever limestone trad!
with Rick
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
monkeyme2 17 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch. Awesome pitch! Big and juggy but engaging and exposed.
with Brannock
Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch. Awesome pitch! Big and juggy but engaging and exposed.
with Brannock
Brannock 17 Feb, 2013 - Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch, interesting link up. Great pitch.
Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch, interesting link up. Great pitch.
g1m147 9 Sep, 2012 Lead Led top pitch. Brilliant!
with Wayne S
Led top pitch. Brilliant!
with Wayne S
Wayne S 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S P1
with g1m147
P1
with g1m147
cem 2 Sep, 2012 2nd rpt A repeat ascent although it felt like climbing it for the first time since neither of us could remember anything about the previous occasion (March 2001). Great second pitch - pity about the encroaching bolt - & p1 isn't that bad really...
with GrahamD
A repeat ascent although it felt like climbing it for the first time since neither of us could remember anything about the previous occasion (March 2001). Great second pitch - pity about the encroaching bolt - & p1 isn't that bad really...
with GrahamD
pedrosanpb 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd
steveshaking 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Pete led first pitch - adding that very poor protection on first pitch adds interest! Excellent 2nd pitch until the jugs run out at the top which on a damp day made it a swine of a top out - losing both feet twice, don't know how I held on. Then Pete did it all in the dark.
with Peter Brown
Pete led first pitch - adding that very poor protection on first pitch adds interest! Excellent 2nd pitch until the jugs run out at the top which on a damp day made it a swine of a top out - losing both feet twice, don't know how I held on. Then Pete did it all in the dark.
with Peter Brown
catblack 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing position for a VS
Amazing position for a VS
masa-alpin 17 Jun, 2012 2nd dog Fell off near the top when a hand hold with the size of 2 fists came off. A fantastic exposure with a good climb in P2. P1 is dirty and insecure (due to mud), but worth doing for the sake of P2!
with Lee P
Fell off near the top when a hand hold with the size of 2 fists came off. A fantastic exposure with a good climb in P2. P1 is dirty and insecure (due to mud), but worth doing for the sake of P2!
with Lee P
Fozzieshep 23 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
marcoleptic 23 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with Sankey
with Sankey
cballard ??, 2012 -
adam carless 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S led the crap pitch. Wow it's everything I hate about limestone: loose, no decent line, muddy & dusty, gear placements which are either terrible or chewed out, rotten biology all over the place. Must admit the second pitch is pretty good though.
led the crap pitch. Wow it's everything I hate about limestone: loose, no decent line, muddy & dusty, gear placements which are either terrible or chewed out, rotten biology all over the place. Must admit the second pitch is pretty good though.
victim of mathematics 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2. The first pitch is rubbish, with poor gear and plenty of dust. The second pitch, however, more than makes up for it. Good climbing in a stupendous position.
Led P2. The first pitch is rubbish, with poor gear and plenty of dust. The second pitch, however, more than makes up for it. Good climbing in a stupendous position.
MikeDowsett 3 Aug, 2011 2nd
with TonyF
with TonyF
Hidden 3 Aug, 2011 Lead
Brian Rodgers 20 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
mark20 25 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
bigdrew 25 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S L P2, Great moves on massive holds and a great position
with mark20
L P2, Great moves on massive holds and a great position
with mark20
Hidden 2 May, 2011 Lead
Phil1967 22 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt Still my favourite VS in the Peak!
with smudge
Still my favourite VS in the Peak!
with smudge
smudge 22 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt The second pitch is worth 3 stars, and I think it is one of the best limestone VS's in the Peak. The first pitch is now clean and pretty free from vegetation. There is the odd loose hold which can be avoided as there are plenty of good jugs. Although it is a bit run out on the first pitch, the climbing is straightforward.
The second pitch is worth 3 stars, and I think it is one of the best limestone VS's in the Peak. The first pitch is now clean and pretty free from vegetation. There is the odd loose hold which can be avoided as there are plenty of good jugs. Although it is a bit run out on the first pitch, the climbing is straightforward.
RM199 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 18 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt abseiled in avoiding the first pitch this time
abseiled in avoiding the first pitch this time
Hidden 23 Jun, 2010 Lead
migs493 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Tom led first pitch. Cracking tom pitch. The traverse feels very exposed.
Tom led first pitch. Cracking tom pitch. The traverse feels very exposed.
Ketu 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch
Lead second pitch
tommo1664 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with mike smith
with mike smith
Graeme Hammond 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Good 2nd pitch, which would probably be a 3 star route on its own but unfortunately let down the 1st pitch (which I led) which is as rubbish and as sparsely protected as the guide suggests, though at least 'most' of the rock is clean and fairly solid and the climbing isn't too hard between the uninspiring runners. (possibly cleaned in the recent Stoney clean up?) Maybe better approached by abseil or via Pendulum?
with Ketu
Good 2nd pitch, which would probably be a 3 star route on its own but unfortunately let down the 1st pitch (which I led) which is as rubbish and as sparsely protected as the guide suggests, though at least 'most' of the rock is clean and fairly solid and the climbing isn't too hard between the uninspiring runners. (possibly cleaned in the recent Stoney clean up?) Maybe better approached by abseil or via Pendulum?
with Ketu
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
daveclarke5 4 Oct, 2009 Lead
with Andy
with Andy
Jim Slater 18 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Led P2 - outstanding pitch.
with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Led P2 - outstanding pitch.
with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Hidden 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Sankey 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17 Apr, 2009 AltLd rpt Horrible, poorly protected and scarey first pitch. The second pitch is one of the best VS pitches in the country, but careful with your ropework or you'll end up with serious ropedrag.
with Steve Grove
Horrible, poorly protected and scarey first pitch. The second pitch is one of the best VS pitches in the country, but careful with your ropework or you'll end up with serious ropedrag.
with Steve Grove
Hidden 19 Oct, 2008 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19 Oct, 2008 AltLd rpt
MeMeMe 20 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with sandy
with sandy
Pilch 15 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Had my eye on this for a while and what a fantastic route. Thanks to the guys who have cleaned up pitch one. Go and climb it before it falls down.
with Ed
Had my eye on this for a while and what a fantastic route. Thanks to the guys who have cleaned up pitch one. Go and climb it before it falls down.
with Ed
EdShep 15 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with Pilch
with Pilch
Hidden 21 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hardonicus 6 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden 2 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
smudge 15 May, 2008 2nd O/S First pitch cleaned, no longer a forest. The holds are no longer buried so it's now a lot easier (but a bit runout).
First pitch cleaned, no longer a forest. The holds are no longer buried so it's now a lot easier (but a bit runout).
Phil1967 15 May, 2008 Lead O/S Brilliant, fabulous, superb. Don't worry about the first pitch the second makes up for it in so many ways. Doesn't even have the full Stoney Pollish - A Classic
with smudge
Brilliant, fabulous, superb. Don't worry about the first pitch the second makes up for it in so many ways. Doesn't even have the full Stoney Pollish - A Classic
with smudge
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 Lead A very good pitch
with andrea evans
A very good pitch
with andrea evans
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
Stig 22 May, 2007 AltLd O/S Led P1.
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Led P1.
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
tom.e 7 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
roberto18 3 Feb, 2007 AltLd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Mr Powly ?Feb, 2007 2nd
with tom.e, George Evans
with tom.e, George Evans
Si dH 8 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S Led top pitch - very good. However, first pitch is currently a nightmare of dust and soil covering sometimes-loose rock holds interspersed with sections of vertical grass and mud. Whether or not the second pitch is worth the effort will depend on your ability ot put up with this, but it is very good.
with Neil Furniss
Led top pitch - very good. However, first pitch is currently a nightmare of dust and soil covering sometimes-loose rock holds interspersed with sections of vertical grass and mud. Whether or not the second pitch is worth the effort will depend on your ability ot put up with this, but it is very good.
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 9 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??, 2005 -
Phill Mitch ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with john d
with john d
Gman ?Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Carl
with Carl
colin milton ?Jun, 2001 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
cem 11 Mar, 2001 2nd
with GrahamD, Miles Butteriss
with GrahamD, Miles Butteriss
kristian ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Ben, Pete
with Ben, Pete
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
JohnHutch ??, 1999 Lead
99bolivar ??, 1999 2nd
Mick King 13 Dec, 1997 AltLd O/S Led P2
with Tony Madden
Led P2
with Tony Madden
Hidden 17 Aug, 1997 Lead
Stoney Boy 2 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
with Phil Cundy
Hidden 5 Jul, 1993 Lead
Budge ?May, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
with Brian Ottewell
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 5 Oct, 1991 Lead O/S
with Sandra
with Sandra
roncaves 22 May, 1991 AltLd
with Steve Leather
with Steve Leather
leathers 22 May, 1991 AltLd
with Ron Caves
with Ron Caves
AndrewP ??, 1990 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 15 Oct, 1989 AltLd
with Andy Fanshawe
with Andy Fanshawe
steve prior ?May, 1989 Lead
with Rob W
with Rob W
Hidden 27 Feb, 1988 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 28 Nov, 1986 Lead
ajtay ??, 1986 -
with Various
with Various
Hidden 1 Aug, 1985 AltLd
babymoac 6 May, 1985 Lead
with MTW
with MTW
Neil McA 12 Apr, 1985 Lead rpt
with Bill Runciman
with Bill Runciman
neilh 4 Nov, 1984 Lead
with dave croker
with dave croker
steveb2006 5 Feb, 1984 AltLd Led top pitch
with Richard Carter
Led top pitch
with Richard Carter
Andy Say 8 May, 1983 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 20 Mar, 1983 AltLd O/S L,2.
L,2.
John Marsland 30 Jun, 1982 AltLd
with Ian Stopforth
with Ian Stopforth
Neil McA 1 Feb, 1981 Lead O/S
with Flog
with Flog
Ian Jones ??, 1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Hidden ?Apr, 1980 Lead
uphillnow 10 Feb, 1980 Lead
Bulls Crack ??, 1980 AltLd O/S
with RW
with RW
mitch1960 ??, 1980 Lead
tapley 11 Aug, 1979 Lead
with Alison Tapley
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 4 Mar, 1979 Lead
Hidden 9 Apr, 1978 2nd
Nigel Bond 7 Jul, 1977 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
with Tony Cuddy
beaumap ?Jul, 1977 Lead
with Bernie Green
with Bernie Green
Rob Davies ?May, 1976 Lead
with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
Dave Musgrove 28 Jul, 1974 AltLd
Dave Westby ??, 1972 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
with Phil Caley
Hidden 27 Apr, 1969 Lead
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 45
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set