Rockfax Description
A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position.
1) The first pitch is loose and vegetated but still gets climbed. Alternatively, use one of the new sport pitches to gain the break.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up to the main break - don't be tempted by the bolts up and left. Follow the break leftwards to gain the hanging groove. Ascend this on superb holds in an amazing position. The most exposed VS at Stoney. Abseil or walk down. © Rockfax
P.Nunn , M.Richardson 8.1.65 08/Jan/1965.
Ticklists
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , BSR multipitch routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kristian | 2 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stoney clear-up day 2023. Dead Ash tree removed from the belay stance and a wide channel cut through the gorse and other prickles to the belay tree. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Stoney clear-up day 2023. Dead Ash tree removed from the belay stance and a wide channel cut through the gorse and other prickles to the belay tree. |
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| alexwilcox03 | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: First pitch is very green, would avoid it and go up a neighbouring sport pitch first. When reaching the top out be careful of lots of loose rock, quite a dangerous top out onto near vertical grass. Knocking rocks off onto people below very likely. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch is very green, would avoid it and go up a neighbouring sport pitch first. When reaching the top out be careful of lots of loose rock, quite a dangerous top out onto near vertical grass. Knocking rocks off onto people below very likely. |
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| smoreda | 3 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: I would class the top-out (once you leave the corner and swing slightly left) as dangerous: fairly big blocks rocking as you stand on them and sloping, vegetated holds for hands. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I would class the top-out (once you leave the corner and swing slightly left) as dangerous: fairly big blocks rocking as you stand on them and sloping, vegetated holds for hands. |
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| FelixPeterken | 30 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: First pitch is very overgrown. Was not very comfortable teetering up a mossy and loose slab with no gear | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch is very overgrown. Was not very comfortable teetering up a mossy and loose slab with no gear |
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| roberto18 | 17 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Probably my favourite on stoney,first pitch is ok, not much gear (easy 4b). second pitch is an absolute must for the experienced VS leader, good holds, good gear but the postion makes it hard for VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Probably my favourite on stoney,first pitch is ok, not much gear (easy 4b). second pitch is an absolute must for the experienced VS leader, good holds, good gear but the postion makes it hard for VS. |
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| rc | 12 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: First pitch was a jungle so we started along the girdle which was fine but fairly smelly (literally). Top pitch is choss, albeit in a nice position. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch was a jungle so we started along the girdle which was fine but fairly smelly (literally). Top pitch is choss, albeit in a nice position. |
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| tog (Donny) | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: The first pitch looks way too overgrown at the minute. Did first pitch of the girdle today, then finished up Evasor. Excellent but not recommended for beginners though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first pitch looks way too overgrown at the minute. Did first pitch of the girdle today, then finished up Evasor. Excellent but not recommended for beginners though. |
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| Stu Tyrrell | 17 Jul, 2000 |
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βeta: Great position for the grade! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great position for the grade! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
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Misty Wall
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)