2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position.
1) The first pitch is loose and vegetated but still gets climbed. Alternatively, use one of the new sport pitches to gain the break.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up to the main break - don't be tempted by the bolts up and left. Follow this leftwards to gain the hanging groove. Ascend this on superb holds in an amazing position. The most exposed VS at Stoney. Abseil off or walk down. © Rockfax

P.Nunn , M.Richardson 8.1.65 08/Jan/1965

AndyRogers 24/Aug/17 AltLd

I led the heroically terrifying poorly protected and pretty shit gardening pitch 1. J led p2. 2nd ascent for me. It's all about p2.

with Jordon , Blue
Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Mowglee 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led one of the bolted routes to the belay by the tree - official first pitch looked awful. P2 was exciting with in situ pigeon.

with Jamie
Hidden 13/May/17 2nd
mike fenwick 13/May/17 Lead

bolted direct start

Colin Scotchford 23/Apr/17 Lead

pitch 2 after starting up creamsnatcher

James Thacker ??/2017 -
Damo Grimley 28/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Overgrown slippy very cold

AndyRogers 28/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Damo led p1 via four thousand as prescribed here. Felt like a mini epic traversing back into the break. P2 is utterly fantastic, massive sustained exposure and huge holds with tonnes of gear. What's not to like!

with Damo
GermanAlex 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S

In one pitch, which was a mistake. The first 15m or so were a vegetated, slimy slide, the top is fantastic.

with Clay
Clay C 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Alex
ned_85 07/Sep/16 Lead
with Elliot Baker
Hidden 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Steve Vincent 03/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Russ 28/Aug/15 Lead
steven24584 ?/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 18/Jun/15 2nd O/S
adie84 ??/2015 -
The Reaper 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

2nd pitch only

Phill Mitch 27/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
with bleggs
Martin Haworth 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 Creamsnatcher, pitch 2 Evasor. Very worthwhile combination.

Brannock 16/Feb/14 2nd rpt

After Creamsnatcher.

marconi 21/Jan/14 2nd
admackie 21/Jan/14 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Roget 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
madasten 21/Sep/13 Lead

Dirty, slimy, snappy first 10 meters of the first pitch are made up for by the next 10 meters of pleasant climbing. Second pitch is simply amazing - interesting climbing on great holds in an astounding position! Unexpectedly, I'd say it's slightly easy for VS but a brill route to take Rick up for his first ever limestone trad!

with Rick
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Brannock 17/Feb/13 -

Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch, interesting link up. Great pitch.

g1m147 09/Sep/12 Lead

Led top pitch. Brilliant!

with Wayne s
Wayne S 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S


with Gary
cem 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt

A repeat ascent although it felt like climbing it for the first time since neither of us could remember anything about the previous occasion (March 2001). Great second pitch - pity about the encroaching bolt - & p1 isn't that bad really...

Hidden 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
catblack 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing position for a VS

masa-alpin 17/Jun/12 2nd dog

Fell off near the top when a hand hold with the size of 2 fists came off. A fantastic exposure with a good climb in P2. P1 is dirty and insecure (due to mud), but worth doing for the sake of P2!

with Lee P
biobuild 23/Apr/12 2nd O/S
marcoleptic 23/Apr/12 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Stephen
cballard ??/2012 -
adam carless 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led the crap pitch. Wow it's everything I hate about limestone: loose, no decent line, muddy & dusty, gear placements which are either terrible or chewed out, rotten biology all over the place. Must admit the second pitch is pretty good though.

victim of mathematics 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. The first pitch is rubbish, with poor gear and plenty of dust. The second pitch, however, more than makes up for it. Good climbing in a stupendous position.

with Adam
MikeDowsett 03/Aug/11 2nd
TonyF 03/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mark20 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1

bigdrew 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

L P2, Great moves on massive holds and a great position

with Mark R
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead
Phil1967 22/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Still my favourite VS in the Peak!

with Dan
smudge 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt

The second pitch is worth 3 stars, and I think it is one of the best limestone VS's in the Peak. The first pitch is now clean and pretty free from vegetation. There is the odd loose hold which can be avoided as there are plenty of good jugs. Although it is a bit run out on the first pitch, the climbing is straightforward.

with Phil
RM199 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt

abseiled in avoiding the first pitch this time

with Jim
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead
migs493 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Tom led first pitch. Cracking tom pitch. The traverse feels very exposed.

with Tom
Ketu 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

tommo1664 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with mike smith
Graeme Hammond 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Good 2nd pitch, which would probably be a 3 star route on its own but unfortunately let down the 1st pitch (which I led) which is as rubbish and as sparsely protected as the guide suggests, though at least 'most' of the rock is clean and fairly solid and the climbing isn't too hard between the uninspiring runners. (possibly cleaned in the recent Stoney clean up?) Maybe better approached by abseil or via Pendulum?

with Rob
Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
daveclarke5 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Andy
Jim Slater 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2 - outstanding pitch.

with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Sankey 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Luke
Andrew Sloan 17/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

Horrible, poorly protected and scarey first pitch. The second pitch is one of the best VS pitches in the country, but careful with your ropework or you'll end up with serious ropedrag.

with Steve Grove
Hidden 19/Oct/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/08 AltLd rpt
MeMeMe 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Pilch 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Had my eye on this for a while and what a fantastic route. Thanks to the guys who have cleaned up pitch one. Go and climb it before it falls down.

with Ed
EdShep 15/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hardonicus 06/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
smudge 15/May/08 2nd O/S

First pitch cleaned, no longer a forest. The holds are no longer buried so it's now a lot easier (but a bit runout).

with Phil
Phil1967 15/May/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant, fabulous, superb. Don't worry about the first pitch the second makes up for it in so many ways. Doesn't even have the full Stoney Pollish - A Classic

with Dan
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Stig 22/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
tom.e 07/Feb/07 Lead O/S
roberto18 03/Feb/07 AltLd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Mr Powly ?/Feb/07 2nd
with tom.e, George Evans
Si dH 08/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch - very good. However, first pitch is currently a nightmare of dust and soil covering sometimes-loose rock holds interspersed with sections of vertical grass and mud. Whether or not the second pitch is worth the effort will depend on your ability ot put up with this, but it is very good.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
Gman ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Carl
colin milton ?/Jun/01 AltLd
with eric milton
cem 11/Mar/01 2nd
with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
kristian ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben, Pete
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
99bolivar ??/1999 2nd
Chris Ellis 17/Aug/97 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Stoney Boy 02/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
Hidden 05/Jul/93 Lead
Budge ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Sandra
roncaves 22/May/91 AltLd
with Steve Leather
leathers 22/May/91 AltLd
with Ron Caves
AndrewP ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
Hidden 27/Feb/88 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 28/Nov/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden 01/Aug/85 AltLd
babymoac 06/May/85 Lead
with MTW
Neil McA 12/Apr/85 Lead rpt
with Bill Runciman
neilh 04/Nov/84 Lead
with dave croker
Hidden 05/Feb/84 AltLd
Andy Say 08/May/83 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 20/Mar/83 AltLd O/S


John Marsland 30/Jun/82 AltLd
with Ian Stopforth
Neil McA 01/Feb/81 Lead O/S
with Flog
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Hidden ?/Apr/80 Lead
uphillnow 10/Feb/80 Lead
Bulls Crack ??/1980 AltLd O/S
with RW
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
tapley 11/Aug/79 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 04/Mar/79 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/78 2nd
Nigel Bond 07/Jul/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
beaumap ?/Jul/77 Lead
with Bernie Green
Rob Davies ?/May/76 Lead
with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
Dave Musgrove 28/Jul/74 AltLd
Dave Westby ??/1972 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
Hidden 27/Apr/69 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 44
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Ground Up
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