Rockfax Description
A worthwhile, direct line with good sustained climbing. The route now bears little resemblance to the original line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6c in guidebook

FA. Ian French, Steve France 1985. Direct Start - Gary Gibson 1998

Ticklists: Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, Red Spot HorseShoe (and nearby) 2016, Peak sport.

sishaw 29/Dec/16 TR
with Scot slim boy
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
sishaw 17/Dec/16 TR
with Scot slim boy
sishaw 28/Nov/16 TR rpt
with Si Willshire, Tim
dan gibson 27/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 27/Oct/16 Lead O/S
evans859 02/Oct/16 Lead RP

Fun route. Got it clean 2nd go! :)

Saurusrock 02/Oct/16 2nd dog
cragsman9000 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead
Jan.Hrb 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ales
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead
goddamm7 07/Aug/16 TR rpt

Wow proper intense went with every intention of leading but it was well above me 2 top ropes and the Moves all went but leading is well above me!! For now!

Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead
zacloftus 31/Jul/16 TR dnf
jonhowson 31/Jul/16 TR rpt
with Claudia
Clama 31/Jul/16 TR dog
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
wyzfen 17/Jul/16 Lead dog
Tom Doldon 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt


with John Doldon
Steven1993 03/Jul/16 Lead dog

Took a little working out, dogged first attempt fell off crux. Second attempt greased off the same move, will be coming back for this :-)

with James, Emily Mobley
sopaz 27/Jun/16 TR dog
with Alec
Kipper-Phil Smith 26/Jun/16 Lead
with Nigel
greenclimb 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Alex Norman 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
will black 04/Jun/16 Lead β
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Gemma S, Ben J, Steph
Ben J 28/May/16 Lead dog

Last two bolts left. Lost the onsight due to an unnecessary match, after getting flustered rather than taking the rest and shaking out.

with Steph Roberts, Sam, Gemma Steel
melv 12/May/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
Hidden 05/May/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead rpt
Nick Sherring 05/May/16 Lead dog

1 fall, route reading error missing groove at mid height. Great route

with Steve McClure, Paul Borland
Kipper-Phil Smith 02/May/16 TR
with Roscoe
soph 19/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Katherine Schirmaccer, Ruth Smitton
Kipper-Phil Smith 13/Apr/16 Lead
with Mick
Kipper-Phil Smith 09/Apr/16 2nd
with Denis
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/16 TR
thejunglist 25/Feb/16 Lead β


with Timmy G
sishaw 02/Nov/15 TR rpt
David Sherratt 02/Nov/15 Lead
Chris Wright 01/Nov/15 Lead rpt
Tall Gecko Hands 24/Oct/15 Lead dog

Best route I've climbed yet because of the mental challenge it gave. I had to trust the smearing and climb on crappy holds I didn't believe in, especially since I couldn't feel them with the cold. Long and sustained route with homogeneous difficulty.

bencole 10/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Oct/15 TR β
1poundSOCKS 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Forgot how tricky 6c slabs are.

Clama 05/Sep/15 2nd dog

Really nice, I'll come back to it

MYox 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Really great. Feels slightly bold at the top, until you realise the holds are all there.

with Barbara
Basia 05/Sep/15 TR dnf
jonhowson 05/Sep/15 TR dog
Bernie L 02/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Ed Magner
BTphonehome 28/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Tony
tmawer 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Thought this was very hard and quite bold towards the top.

with Bram
Hidden 27/Aug/15 Lead
Dan Jenkin 23/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Rebecca Partridge
amccann 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S
RKirke 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Stroppy 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jake Young
Jake Young 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Roger K, Ed
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
morganator 14/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with martin gibson
andyman666999 07/Jul/15 Lead RP

1st RP. Really enjoyable climbing, good rests and some crimpy interest. 3 star again shame about the finish.

with Nick
Dave Mayes 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Emily
Kipper-Phil Smith 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Roscoe
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S

ended up doing some funky moves

with Roisin
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/15 Lead dog
Nick1812P 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S

not very sustained but some tricky moves in-between reasonable rests.

with India
eel 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Al
john lynch 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
soph 03/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Neal Jobling 29/May/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route! A lot easier than expected after really struggling on Litany Against Fear which is supposed to be the same grade.

with Andy Burr
Ian Broome 22/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Kipper-Phil Smith 09/May/15 TR

Freezing cold day

with Denis, Mick
bigdrew 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Think it was this one

Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lloydrees91 04/Apr/15 Lead
sishaw 25/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Wimped out after sixth bolt or smear step up. I find all bolts at this place too far apart.

with James
Hidden 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 15/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 17/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Nick Sherring 15/Feb/15 Lead dog

combination of sapped energy and a fwe greasy quarzite holds towards the top spat me off. Really good though, will do again. Felt solid 6c and pretty run out in the harder second half.

John1458 24/Jan/15 TR dog
henry.jeffreys 24/Jan/15 Lead dog

Fell just after halfway

with UBMC
UBMC 24/Jan/15 2nd
GouldHarry ??/2015 Lead RP
Chris Wright 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Chris Wright 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

guide book gives 6c and it definitely felt more like 6c at times! Great route

with martin johnson
Jonathan Hall 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead RP
Stroppy 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Josh Brown
dannyboy83 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shane Donnelly
leon 23/Jul/14 2nd dog

found the move into the groove hard and the moves to the penultimate bolt hard.

Hidden 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
MartinPL 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AsleepOnBelay 20/Jun/14 2nd
with oxford john, Owen
Cake 20/Jun/14 Lead dog

Nearly did it after a practice TR. Didn't like the run out to the penultimate bolt

Chris Wright 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt
mrteale 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
MrBIond 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
stp 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. Forgot my harness so lead using some bodged up legloops made from slings. Felt about a grade easier than the adjacent Litany Against Fear. Possibly done before years ago.

with Julie
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
sishaw 26/May/14 Lead dog

This seems hard for 6b+ , it's 6c to me and not that easy either.

with Si Willshire, Scot slim boy
phil64 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Superb climbing for quarried limestone... a gem

with matt dean, dave
DaveMo 20/Apr/14 Lead dnf

small crimp near the top stopped me. aided the rest and lowered off.

dunky 19/Apr/14 TR dog

One rest after getting confused trying to follow instructions.. Sigh.

morganator 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 TR dog
spidermonkey09 22/Mar/14 Lead RP

Got him this time. Dogged lead, TR, RP. Its still definitely 6c!

Jack93 22/Mar/14 Lead dog

Ah so unhappy! Fumbled it right at the top when I should defintely have finished it and then it started to rain so I couldn't have another go :(

Hidden 21/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Chris Wright 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Dkoi 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dominic, Mark Barnard
Palmer 08/Jan/14 TR dog

think im quite a way off leading this at the moment

pie_eater_pete ??/2014 -
MichaelGallimore ??/2014 -
Somerset swede basher 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Adam
greenclimb 24/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/13 TR dog
greenclimb 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/13 TR dog
philboy 05/Sep/13 Lead
with matt g
elCapitano 15/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Courty
James Oakes 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Sustained with a couple of tough moves, definitive 6c.

greenclimb 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with dave james
Chris Wright 19/May/13 Lead
spidermonkey09 06/May/13 Lead dog

Sweet route, particularly the bottom half. Top half confused the hell out of me, should've learned the topo line off by heart. Again sportingly bolted in the middle, would've been big fall had I gone there. Also agree it is solid 6c.

Richard P Coates 06/May/13 TR dnf
with Courty
Chris Wright 07/Apr/13 Lead
mrginna 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
with John
Toby Dunn 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead dog
kristian 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Si dH 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

Think this is a tough 6c. I remembered how much I hate long run outs above bolts on crags that dont overhang. Didnt enjoy it; found it scarier than.the last E3 I did. One bokt position in particular just plain stupid.

with Richard Popp
remus 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S

With the draws in. Some tenuous moves but good overall.

Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead rpt
clmbr 21/Aug/12 Lead β
with Guillermo
Martin Haworth 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

6c in new guide and I think it is worth it

jkarran 18/Aug/12 Lead
with Grant
Brannock 18/Aug/12 Lead dog
GrantB 18/Aug/12 Lead β
with James
jibberingwreck 27/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/12 TR dog
soph 12/Jul/12 Lead
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 08/Jul/12 TR dog
Cake 08/Jul/12 TR dog

After wandering around on the lead and falling off all the time, I nearly got the top-rope clean

DDDD 29/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Seb Grieve
migs493 28/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Jenny
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tom Doldon 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S

move right at top to a sde pull not obvious

with sam simpson 48
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Cake 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
gregoritos 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2012 -
drcorbasisgod 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/11 TR rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dog
Cragrat Rich 25/Jun/11 Lead

Led after falling onsight. Various excuses (weather/conditions etc) but nowt that would stand up in court. Read the sequence wrong at middle crux and fell, after dealing with the balancy groove ok. Top went fine.

Glenn Sutcliffe 12/May/11 -
with Pete Cresswell
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

6c. A very good route.

Laurence Everitt 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

came back to get it clean today, still took 2 attempts

Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
robandian ?/Oct/10 -
robandian ?/Oct/10 2nd
MartinWilliams87 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Gambit 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Felt strangely familiar

with Barney
migs493 21/Aug/10 Lead dog

Fell off!

Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 24/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/10 Lead O/S
smudge 01/Jul/10 Lead RP

Good climb, loads of great sequences between good rests. Gotta be worth 6c.

with Phil
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead
Alaina 02/Jun/10 2nd dog

this is hard shizz!!!!

nacnud 24/May/10 Lead O/S
Dan Jenkin 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 13/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/10 Lead
greenclimb 20/Feb/10 Lead β
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
The Grist ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
gazfellows 29/Jun/09 TR
with Dennis
gazfellows 29/Jun/09 2nd
with Dennis
Hidden 08/Apr/09 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2009 Lead
jw231 08/Aug/08 Lead dog
al99 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
morganator 24/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Blonde Tom
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead
mattyork2 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
morganator 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
Jarin 03/Apr/08 2nd β
with local:-)
Joe Grondowski ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 Lead O/S
Mick B 10/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 26/Nov/06 Lead β
Hidden 25/Nov/06 Lead
NeilManley ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead dog
Boy ??/2006 -
Gus ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Mark A Humphries 26/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Jim
nige 11/Sep/03 Lead
with nick colton
Hidden 28/Dec/02 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
skygodley 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/01 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/01 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/01 Lead
steepstuff ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 16/Aug/00 Lead
Roget 16/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 01/Jul/00 TR
Andy Edgar ??/2000 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 24/Apr/99 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun/98 Lead rpt
uphillnow ?/Jun/98 -
Hidden 19/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/96 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/93 TR
Hidden 04/Jul/93 TR
Hidden 15/Apr/93 TR
Hidden 02/Jul/92 TR
Stoney Boy 26/Aug/91 Lead β
with Rob Harrison
Hidden 21/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/91 TR
sadams 20/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Kev Mellieu
Billg ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Hidden 05/Aug/89 2nd
Mike Owen 20/Apr/88 -
with Pete Kirton
Hidden 16/Apr/88 Lead rpt
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High 6c
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High 6b+
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Votes cast 72
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
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