The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile, direct line with good sustained climbing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6c in guidebook
FA. Ian French, Steve France 1985. Direct Start - Gary Gibson 1998.
Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Red Spot HorseShoe (and nearby) 2016 , Peak sport , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , York University Students path to greatness , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fraser kid | 8 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Hilariously airy run out towards the top, but very satisfying once put to bed. Route of very high quality | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hilariously airy run out towards the top, but very satisfying once put to bed. Route of very high quality |
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Fiend | 15 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Backed off the finish of this as it was too runout up an offputting blank section. Could really do with another bolt. Solid 6c up to that point with some intimidating moves but a shit eliminate start. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Backed off the finish of this as it was too runout up an offputting blank section. Could really do with another bolt. Solid 6c up to that point with some intimidating moves but a shit eliminate start. |
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Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)