Rockfax Description
In good winters the central ice pillar forms which gives a fine steep and serious pitch. Finish up the short steep icicle above the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
In good conditions the central ice pillar, with it's cascade of icicles, can produce a steep and serious pitch.

Ticklists: The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Winter Aspirations.

Hidden 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
stevelismore 26/Jan/13 2nd O/S

fantastic winter conditions. Very vertical!

with Gavin PCC, Phil PCC
Hidden 26/Jan/13 2nd dog
tsl42 26/Jan/13 2nd O/S


with Liam Brown
Hidden 26/Jan/13 Lead
adamwesthead 25/Jan/13 2nd O/S

Nick did it all to the top in one pitch and I followed.

with Hoult
Hidden 25/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Oihularia 25/Jan/13 Solo

Soloed all the way to the top, after having soloed the easier two other right hand routes (Downfall Climb and Central Direct). Probably easier than the normal grade because there were deep ices-axes and crampons hollows in the ice.

Mr Messy 25/Jan/13 Lead O/S

night time assalt in very poor weather

with Steve
Jake Young 24/Jan/13 TR O/S
The Grist 23/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Night time ascent by head torch.

Hidden 23/Jan/13 2nd
cmars89 19/Jan/13 TR
with Jake rowarth, Sam duckworth
SoulTrekker ?/Jun/12 -
Franco Cookson OLD 15/Jan/10 Lead O/S

midnight, no harness, 1 ice screw, one pair of crampons and ice axes between us. Cool route.

with Stuart Coxson
Hidden 15/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
smithaldo 14/Jan/10 Lead O/S

great conditions, last day before it departed. After topping out there were about 8 people in the queue. Leaving work early paid dividends

with mark j
mic_b 14/Jan/10 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 13/Jan/10 2nd β

The condition was excellent after the prolonged cold spell (once in 30 years?), ice being well-formed and the temperature being just freezing (-3 degC): http://www.flickr.com/photos/alpiniste/4276530560/ The upper snowy part was dodgy with a big cornice, so we traversed to the left.

with Sirion
Will Smith 13/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Worst hot aches of my life! Ice in reasonable nick but huge amount of loose snow on ledges made it a necky lead for Rob.

with Rob
lithos 13/Jan/10 Lead

Bottom pillar of thick ice has cruddy veneer in places, but takes good screws. Upper pillar fine , but the snow at the top had me worried, very gently dig trench up protection-less snow - phew

Jim Slater 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led the short wall from the big ledge as a second pitch.

with Andy Kilby, Trevor Wilson
Hidden 10/Jan/10 Lead
Somerset swede basher 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Katharine
Hidden 09/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Katharine.eaton 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Dom
GuyM ?/Jan/10 2nd

thick ice - arctic weather. horrible blizzard on top..

with si
Col Kingshott 22/Dec/09 Lead O/S
martinbettridge06 ?/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jan/06 Lead
Hidden 11/Jan/97 2nd
Hidden 18/Jan/96 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 Lead

In a queque of 11. Worth the wait. Good laugh.

with Duncs
adi bryant ?/Jan/92 2nd
with Ollie
Andy Chadwick ??/1985 AltLd O/S

Date approximate. Did in two pitches with ice-cave stance.

Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 2nd
with Al Rouse, Phil Burke
RichardMc 20/Feb/83 Lead
with Daphne Pritchard
charlesmfrench 15/Jan/82 Lead dog

Fell one one axe ripped but the other held as I was clipped in to it.

Mark Kemball 13/Jan/82 Lead
with Sian Calow, Chris Calow
AB1965 10/Jan/81 -
Nigel Bond 27/Jan/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/79 -
with Bob Millward
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set