UKC Logbook - 'The Party Animal'

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Last update: 04/03/2024

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Rockfax Description
The blunt central arete has a hard move at the top. Can feel harder if you go very direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It seems the belay has been replaced and is no longer an issue, although it may be further right so sneaking around the arete is no longer an option.
The crux is at the top going past the last bolt to the belay - at least 6c, possibly 6c+.

FA. Mark Pretty, Sean Coffey, John Godding 1986.

Ticklists

Horseshoe Star Quality

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User	Date		Notes
Tom_Ball	30 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: This route is well bolted and the climbing is good.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This route is well bolted and the climbing is good.
Fraser kid	25 Feb, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Last move very hard to read. Fairly easy when you know how.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Last move very hard to read. Fairly easy when you know how.
Alan James - Rockfax	29 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The top move really is 6b+ if climbing on the right of the arete but you have to do it using the exact holds otherwise it feels utterly desperate. The bolts are perfectly placed for this sequence, which is the correct sequence of the original route and is by far the best line.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The top move really is 6b+ if climbing on the right of the arete but you have to do it using the exact holds otherwise it feels utterly desperate. The bolts are perfectly placed for this sequence, which is the correct sequence of the original route and is by far the best line.
nickcanute	26 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Another route spoilt by hopeless rebolting by persons who didnt know the climb.. lower off wrong place.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Another route spoilt by hopeless rebolting by persons who didnt know the climb.. lower off wrong place.
Christheclimber	28 Apr, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Much harder than 6b if climbed right of arête. Poor description as the crux isn’t the middle section, it’s at the top going past the last bolt to the new belay. Felt very hard at least 6c.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Much harder than 6b if climbed right of arête. Poor description as the crux isn’t the middle section, it’s at the top going past the last bolt to the new belay. Felt very hard at least 6c.
Frank the Husky	23 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: ...the last few moves are very hard: they felt like english 6b!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: ...the last few moves are very hard: they felt like english 6b!
Chris the Tall	15 Jun, 2004	Show βeta βeta: The final moves are far harder than anything else on the route - even at 6'4" it's a desperate lunge. Good route but the single bolt belay is a definate worry.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The final moves are far harder than anything else on the route - even at 6'4" it's a desperate lunge. Good route but the single bolt belay is a definate worry.