UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
A long left-to-right traverse AKA 'Slotted Wall Traverse'. A technical start and steep finish. Start just right of the granite step; move right to the low break via a side-pull and carry on right to the good, low holds on the arete of Pink Moon. Move right through Wasa Dyno to reach the second slot on Slotted Wall; finish up here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A.k.a. Slotted Wall Traverse. Start just left of Enterprising, move down right through the start of Enterprising and traverse around the arĂȘte of Pink Moon to finish up Slotted Wall.

Dave Henderson 2004.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above) , JaVu's Hard Dartmoor Bouldering ~2008

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Route of Interest
Gravitron

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Anstey's Cove)

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