UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
The arete is one of the best problems in the woods and requires good skills and a few mats. The finish is much easier but rather high and not a good one to fall from - as the first ascensionist discovered to the detriment of his ankle! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The fantastic leaning arete on The Prow. A few hard pulls to gain the juggy break. Now climbed from sitting at f7B. Better this way.

Jason Maddick 2007.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , MoorMan Magic , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above) , Bovey Woods Top 20 , JaVu's Hard Dartmoor Bouldering ~2008

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High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
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Route of Interest
Boron ArĂȘte Sitter

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Bovey Woods)

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