220m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A serious route and not to be underestimated. The rock is extremely compact and protection is hard to find. There is little fixed gear, the route finding is not obvious and the difficulties sustained. All that said the climbing is fantastic, on perfect rock, making the route a must for anyone comfortable at this level of climbing. Not recommended after rain as the middle pitches follow the black streaks created by running water. A set of tri-cams to use in the many pockets can help protect the route.
Start at the left side of the black-streaked vertical wall, just left of a steep corner-crack.
1) V+, 35m. Climb the crack, trending right to a stance.
2) V+, 35m. Traverse right on black rock to arrive directly below a niche 25m above. Climb a bulge then move diagonally left then steeply direct to step into the niche itself on its left-hand side.
3) VI-, 30m. Climb a bulge on the left of the niche, move right then follow a corner left to a thread.
4) V+, 30m. Make a traverse right then climb a steep wall diagonally right towards a niche.
5) V, 40m. Move right around the niche (also possible on the left) then trend left above to an easy-angled corner leading right.
6) IV, 40m. Follow the corner right to a thread.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow two corner-cracks right before moving direct to reach the large ledge under the summit.
8) III, 60m. Move right to reach the ridge, and follow this easily to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follows a fairly direct line between the two obvious water streaks. Immaculate climbing on big pockets, but should be avoided when wet. 4 pitches of V+, followed by V, IV and IV+

Messner Brothers 1968

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mackinclimb 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S E2 5b is probably fair. Difficult route finding with spaced protection. Hail storm at pitch 6. Did the rest in the wet. Pretty exciting.
with arose
E2 5b is probably fair. Difficult route finding with spaced protection. Hail storm at pitch 6. Did the rest in the wet. Pretty exciting.
with arose
arose 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd Possibly not our greatest idea starting up this with a minimal description and no topo having just climbed the vinatzer. Paid for it with heavy hail near the top. Good route though serious. E2 5b.
Possibly not our greatest idea starting up this with a minimal description and no topo having just climbed the vinatzer. Paid for it with heavy hail near the top. Good route though serious. E2 5b.
anja.sraj 7 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Very good route
with Matej Balažič "Piki"
Very good route
with Matej Balažič "Piki"
alpinist63 21 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Paul ablitt 16 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
duncan 4 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
with Hugo Glover
Hidden 29 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
Lenny ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
with Phil .N
rlade ?Aug, 2012 -
with Rob McGregor
with Rob McGregor
Neil Adams 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S E2 5b I reckon. Timed it perfectly - the thunderstorm started just after we topped out...
E2 5b I reckon. Timed it perfectly - the thunderstorm started just after we topped out...
Alasdair Fulton 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Hahaha, which comedian thinks this is HVS? E2 sounds closer to the money. Varied and interesting climbing. Dolomites classic climbs topo is a bit off...
Hahaha, which comedian thinks this is HVS? E2 sounds closer to the money. Varied and interesting climbing. Dolomites classic climbs topo is a bit off...
Wil Treasure 3 Jul, 2012 AltLd Cool line, some tricky route finding and a few runouts but good rock and great climbing.
Cool line, some tricky route finding and a few runouts but good rock and great climbing.
Peter Holder 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S I rope soloed the first 3 pitches the day before.
with Matt Roberts
I rope soloed the first 3 pitches the day before.
with Matt Roberts
roberts1234567890 31 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Chris_barr ??, 2011 Lead dnf Rained off, never been so wet.
with Mike
Rained off, never been so wet.
with Mike
GraMc 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with henward
with henward
Hidden 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd
jimdanson 20 Aug, 2009 -
with dan middleton
with dan middleton
Hidden 22 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 29 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with martina
with martina
paola 5 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S CAI Padova, corso alpinismo
CAI Padova, corso alpinismo
chris wyatt ??, 2007 -
alpinist63 21 Jul, 2005 AltLd
mattnuttall ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S first route after 8 years off. Cracking... hooked again :-)
with Jerome
first route after 8 years off. Cracking... hooked again :-)
with Jerome
NickJH ?Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
with RGraves
with RGraves
andyb211 ?May, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Dave Barron
with Dave Barron
rurp ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Falko 1 Aug, 1973 Lead O/S
with TRE
with TRE
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set