800m, 27 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and impressive route, undoubtedly one of the best climbs of its grade in the Dolomites. The climb weaves its way along the edges of the large black water steak that dominates the face. This constant trickle of water has scrubbed the rock clean and sculpted a veritable jug ladder up the steep face. As you might expect, it is advisable to wait for a dry period to tackle this beautiful climb. The route crosses the black steak several times, most infamously on pitch 14, which is usually soaking at best and an impassable waterfall at worst.
For those up to the challenge the Dibona Upper Wall provides the logical continuation. Combining the routes gives almost a kilometre of climbing up one of the most impressive faces of the Dolomites whilst never exceeding upper grade IV.
Start 50m left of the prominent black streak, directly below the huge boulder on the upper ledge. Climb easy scree and rocks to a scree basin.
1) III+, 50m. From the scree, traverse slabs right to reach the base of a corner-gully. Follow this, trending right, moving up the slabs reach a small ledge.
2) III, 40m. Continue right then move back left up a ramp to reach a crack.
3) IV-, 30m. Climb the short crack direct, then follow a ramp rightwards easily to the base of a corner-crack, just left of the black streak.
4) IV-, 45m. Climb the corner-crack then follow a ledge right to the right side of the black streak and a thread belay below a crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb a black chimney-crack about 5m to the right of the black streak to reach a vertical crack. Climb this to reach easier ground and follow this diagonally right to a ledge.
6) IV+, 45m. Climb direct just right of the stance up a vertical wall to a yellow niche. Traverse right underneath this then climb a steep crack direct.
7) IV-, 45m. Follow a gully left to a stance below a crack.
8) IV, 30m. Ignore the crack directly above and instead continue diagonally left up fractured rock to a comfortable stance below a crack.
9) IV, 25m. Climb the black crack above - often wet but with good holds - to reach a ledge. Follow this right for a few metres to a good stance.
10) IV+, 45m. Continue right along the ledge for a few metres to a peg, then climb a vertical crack and a steep slab, stepping left at the top of a belay below flakes and corner-cracks leading left.
11) IV-, 25m. Climb the open corner, using the flakes on its edge.
12) IV, 35m. Continue in the same line to reach the centre of the black streak, and climb this for a few metres before exiting out right again to a stance below a compact slab.
13) IV, 25m. Climb the slab then continue direct to a stance in a niche.
14) IV, 30m. Exit left from the niche onto the black streak - often providing a refreshing, albeit unwanted, shower. Climb this on the left then move onto the right before following a rising traverse on its left side, escaping the deluge following a diagonal crack.
15) IV, 50m. Follow the continuation crack to enter a chimney-gully, and follow this up and left. To avoid a second shower, it is possible to climb vertically to the right of this before moving left on easier ground to the back of the chimney. Continue to a good stance.
16) IV, 40m. Continue more vertically in the chimney to reach a crack leading out and right. Follow this to exit onto the large scree ledge, and belay to the left of a large boulder. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pordoi - Northwest face. Awesome climb up this huge wall. Very few pegs in place and not a small amount of resolve required in picking the best line. The upper section immediately before the huge terrace at three quarters height has two sketchy pitches on loose rock that lead to the "wet belay" in the bed of a water course, where one of the pegs was actually underwater when we got there..

Bernard/Dari 1929

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike Hood 17 Sep, 2018 Lead
Louvet 12 Sep, 2018 2nd
Guy Arnold 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome. Various waterfalls add to the atmosphere. Scree ledge descent is scary.
Awesome. Various waterfalls add to the atmosphere. Scree ledge descent is scary.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd
MoWalker3 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd First on, so a route finding challenge. 7 hrs but not up to the top section as well
with Doc
First on, so a route finding challenge. 7 hrs but not up to the top section as well
with Doc
garygecko 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Mo
with Mo
PalfreyN 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd
JPSmith 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd Good mountain route. Mauro Bernardi topo is very accurate throughout. Do it on a dry day after a dry spell. Otherwise some pitches I can imagine would be a nightmare. Quality of rock is mixed, but there is some great pitches/parts climbed. Belays are fixed, but tat and pitons rapidly degrade due to the waterfall. Worth an outing for sure.
with Neil Palfrey
Good mountain route. Mauro Bernardi topo is very accurate throughout. Do it on a dry day after a dry spell. Otherwise some pitches I can imagine would be a nightmare. Quality of rock is mixed, but there is some great pitches/parts climbed. Belays are fixed, but tat and pitons rapidly degrade due to the waterfall. Worth an outing for sure.
with Neil Palfrey
Stoney Boy 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Uli
with Uli
fuzzysheep01 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Big. 10.5 hours in total including Dibona extension. Overtaken by various guided groups which added to stress and eased route-finding challenge.
with Pierce Ferris
Big. 10.5 hours in total including Dibona extension. Overtaken by various guided groups which added to stress and eased route-finding challenge.
with Pierce Ferris
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead
mike mo ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S well worth the 15 year wait. what a line, what a day we had
with David Mooney, Ems
well worth the 15 year wait. what a line, what a day we had
with David Mooney, Ems
Maia 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 11 (up the waterfall), 13, 14 (waterfall traverse). Brilliant day, but got caught in thunderstorm on the scree descent!
with FranC
Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 11 (up the waterfall), 13, 14 (waterfall traverse). Brilliant day, but got caught in thunderstorm on the scree descent!
with FranC
Hidden 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd
pauldrew 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Ali Hutton
with Ali Hutton
Nico34 10 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
whistler 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Climbing through the stream is priceless. Top chimney pitches are outstanding! Could be in trouble if caught in storm on the face, we watched it turn into a waterfall on whilst descending.
with Mark Littlewood
Brilliant! Climbing through the stream is priceless. Top chimney pitches are outstanding! Could be in trouble if caught in storm on the face, we watched it turn into a waterfall on whilst descending.
with Mark Littlewood
roberts1234567890 13 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Callum Bridger
with Callum Bridger
richjm ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Moved together throughout. Completed in 4hr.
with Tom Coulthard
Moved together throughout. Completed in 4hr.
with Tom Coulthard
Hidden 24 Aug, 2009 2nd
Dunx ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jason
with Jason
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mihkel 17 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S 26p. c 800m. Amazing route. An intricate line up a big face, broken by a massive scree terrace. Running with water in couple places. Copious holds throughout. Most unique crag-swag ever: a 100m two-tone half rope. 7hr (gbt).
with Gareth Tucker
26p. c 800m. Amazing route. An intricate line up a big face, broken by a massive scree terrace. Running with water in couple places. Copious holds throughout. Most unique crag-swag ever: a 100m two-tone half rope. 7hr (gbt).
with Gareth Tucker
chris wyatt ?Aug, 2005 -
with Mike Barclay
with Mike Barclay
cem 25 Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S 8 hrs 25 mins
with GrahamD
8 hrs 25 mins
with GrahamD
tjekel ??, 1993 -
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set