150m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which takes the line of least resistance up Averau's southwest face. The traverse at half-height is exhilarating and exposed but is technically easier than it looks with excellent holds. The line is logical but nevertheless not without route-finding issues because there are many possible variants on the first two pitches. An excellent climb and perfect for a half-day outing or combined with some of the short trad or sport routes at nearby Cinque Torri. The views from the summit are superb.
Start to the left of the pinnacle, below a chimney formed by the pinnacle and the yellow face on the left.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the chimney for 20m, first on the left then on the right, overcoming a vertical section on the pinnacle itself direct. Exit onto scree and continue in the chimney on the left. Climb this with a couple of trickier but well-protected moves to a good stance on a ledge (don't be tempted by tat further to the right).
2) IV+, 35m. Move diagonally left and climb a short gully to a ledge. Continue up a leaning pillar with some delicate climbing to belay on a small ledge. Alternatively, traverse the first ledge left to a peg, then ascend a couple of metres before traversing back right to reach the second ledge.
3) IV, 25m. Follow the ledge left under the steep wall above for 10m to reach two parallel cracks. Climb the left one then move right to reach a belay below a crack.
4) IV+, 20m. Don't climb the crack but instead make a wonderfully exposed traverse with excellent holds. Continue to reach a yellow niche with a good belay (cemented ring) on the far wall (route book).
5) IV, 35m. Exit the niche on the right with some exposed moves, then continue ascending slightly rightwards for a few metres before moving back left to a flake. Follow this, continue a few metres above it, then move back right to a good stance.
6) IV-, 30m. Climb a gully moving left below two yellow niches. Continue to the niches, traverse right below them then climb direct on their right. Move back left to a flake and continue to the belay.
7) IV-, 30m. An enjoyable slab leads to a sloping ledge (some loose scree so be aware of your second and any parties below) and belay just below the summit cross. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Devious line up the SW face. Steep for the grade. Features a short traverse into a cave that will live long in the memory.

Approach: Walk or take lift from Passo Giau to Rif Averau. From Rif. take trail to Falzarego pass for 5 mins to beneath obvious chimney left of Averau's south arete. Walk steeply up to the foot of the chimney (50 mins).

Descent: Take the paths and VF northwards back down to the Rif Averau 25 mins. Walk or lift down to Passo Giau.


Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lauradavies23 23 Jul 2nd
mikecollins 23 Jul Lead O/S Early start to try and miss the sun. Completed in 3hrs 30mins including going off route. Start isn’t very easy to find and RockFax description is suitable vague. Traverse is a doddle - pictures in RockFax make it look overhung. From the end of that pitch, go straight up from the niche, then head left along the obvious flake. Last pitch is up a flake / chimney not a slab as per RockFax
Early start to try and miss the sun. Completed in 3hrs 30mins including going off route. Start isn’t very easy to find and RockFax description is suitable vague. Traverse is a doddle - pictures in RockFax make it look overhung. From the end of that pitch, go straight up from the niche, then head left along the obvious flake. Last pitch is up a flake / chimney not a slab as per RockFax
kingjam 8 Jul AltLd Short route good for a half-day worth the trip
with Matt Naylor
Short route good for a half-day worth the trip
with Matt Naylor
PatrickBoothroyd 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Really fun climb, amazing exposure on the traverse on pitch 4
with NigelBoothroyd
Really fun climb, amazing exposure on the traverse on pitch 4
with NigelBoothroyd
tiga271 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
matthewbpt 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf After Holger and I tried the first pitch separately we backed off completely because the chimney was wet and scary! Maybe we'll come back another time and give it another go ... We ended up sport climbing instead.
with Johannes, Heinrich, Tijana, Holger
After Holger and I tried the first pitch separately we backed off completely because the chimney was wet and scary! Maybe we'll come back another time and give it another go ... We ended up sport climbing instead.
with Johannes, Heinrich, Tijana, Holger
Martin Bennett 4 Sep, 2017 -
with Kim Miller
with Kim Miller
johnE 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S I was a little disappointed with this route. To start off with we took the wrong gully for the first pitch then completely missed the crutch pitch. Instead of traversing left along a ledge, up a crack and back with the fine traverse we went straight up to the niche.
I was a little disappointed with this route. To start off with we took the wrong gully for the first pitch then completely missed the crutch pitch. Instead of traversing left along a ledge, up a crack and back with the fine traverse we went straight up to the niche.
Alessandro Tentori 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
with Luca Gasparini
daveclarke5 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd First IV + I've found easy in dolomites. Good half day route.
with Stephen
First IV + I've found easy in dolomites. Good half day route.
with Stephen
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
colin milton 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd Descent via vf. A good intro to dolomites climbing
with eric milton
Descent via vf. A good intro to dolomites climbing
with eric milton
Hidden 4 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hog Dog 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Got to do the wicked pitch 4!
with Andy Howell
Got to do the wicked pitch 4!
with Andy Howell
Hidden 22 Aug, 2016 2nd
Tmgreenfield ?Aug, 2016 Lead
with Andy, Mark, Jenny
with Andy, Mark, Jenny
tjekel 24 Jul, 2016 -
rashwell 16 Jul, 2016 Lead
The Norris ?Jul, 2016 Lead
with gembel
with gembel
andyclimber 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 7th pitches
Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 7th pitches
Steve Lenartowicz 29 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd
climberuk 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with niallk
with niallk
niallk 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1, 2 and p4 out of the cave after the traverse. Started to the left of where the Classic Climbs guide suggests, but in the queue with all the Italian teams.
with climberuk, Pam
Led p1, 2 and p4 out of the cave after the traverse. Started to the left of where the Classic Climbs guide suggests, but in the queue with all the Italian teams.
with climberuk, Pam
Hidden 11 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 5 Sep, 2013 Lead
Hidden 5 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
fishjh2 5 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Marq 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 7 Aug, 2013 -
with Sarah
with Sarah
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
Hidden ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
esuddes ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
martinazando 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 7 but 1 and 2 we where off route starting to the right. Nice traverse on the 4th and good views.
with al99
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 7 but 1 and 2 we where off route starting to the right. Nice traverse on the 4th and good views.
with al99
al99 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S An excellent route on good rock (though solidity deteriorates near top)
with dunnyg
An excellent route on good rock (though solidity deteriorates near top)
with dunnyg
johnpuddephatt 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Matt Ringrose
with Matt Ringrose
p.j.deacon ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
RocKalina ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
with MM
with MM
GeorgeNunn ?Jun, 2012 2nd
with Tom Coultard
with Tom Coultard
onlyfoddington 11 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Awesome! I lead the first two and last two pitches
Awesome! I lead the first two and last two pitches
stevorobs3 11 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S amazing climb! traverse rreally is much more juggy than it looks!
with andy howell
amazing climb! traverse rreally is much more juggy than it looks!
with andy howell
brianrunner 21 Sep, 2010 AltLd
with martina
with martina
Elsier 22 Jul, 2010 Lead Lovely climbing, overall a great route
with Mary
Lovely climbing, overall a great route
with Mary
dancurrie 7 Jul, 2010 AltLd Lost the line half way up. Terrible guidebook description in Classic Dolomites!!
with Marcus Horgan, Tom Wallbank
Lost the line half way up. Terrible guidebook description in Classic Dolomites!!
with Marcus Horgan, Tom Wallbank
Hidden 29 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Lev 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
MartF 22 Jul, 2009 2nd Second to Matt. "Exposed treaverse" was exactly that. Guest book in the cave at the end of the traverse was somewhat unexpected! VF to get down from the summit, rigged up some kit from slings and Krabs.
with Matt
Second to Matt. "Exposed treaverse" was exactly that. Guest book in the cave at the end of the traverse was somewhat unexpected! VF to get down from the summit, rigged up some kit from slings and Krabs.
with Matt
andyebbens 3 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Steve E
with Steve E
Sankey 3 Jul, 2009 AltLd Had this classic to ourselves, brilliantly exposed traverse pitch to the cave and route book. Hail near the top!
with Andy E
Had this classic to ourselves, brilliantly exposed traverse pitch to the cave and route book. Hail near the top!
with Andy E
Tarquin ?Jun, 2009 Lead
French Erick 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd dnf rotten rock, is half the route missing?
with DaveHK
rotten rock, is half the route missing?
with DaveHK
Em66 23 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
Hidden 3 Oct, 2007 Lead dnf
cpoad 20 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Clare F
with Clare F
FrankW 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 13 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
Iain Brown 30 Aug, 2000 - Epic. Last 2 pitches in massive thunderstorm which appeared from nowhere
with Dave
Epic. Last 2 pitches in massive thunderstorm which appeared from nowhere
with Dave
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set