UKC

15m. Start up the left pillar of the smaller of the caves on 2 bolts with no hangers to the corner. One hanger followed by another hangerless bolt leads to top bolt in corner. Traverse out right on the lip using the single bolt at arms reach and bomber cams in the left and right of the large eliptical hole in the roof. Upon reaching the rising vertical crack, cam, hook, swear and hope your way up to tree belay so sit and ponder whilst you're second has the enjoyable task of stripping the route. Alternatively, can be stripped on an abseil from the tree belay with some interesting rope work, or else setting up a second abseil from the very top of the crag which can be reached be a short walk around on the left of the cave to grab that tricky hard to reach gear that is on the left hand pillar

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Aid climbing

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Route of Interest
Middle Stump

Grade: A2 ***
(Dovedale)

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