85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax

FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966

Ticklists

Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad

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UserDateNotes
shane ohly 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 28 Jun Lead
shaky2 27 Jun 2nd
with Matt c
with Matt c
smoreda 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf A very adventurous and committing climb. Nothing in-situ for 2nd and 3rd (semi-hanging) belays. The start of pitch 3 is a 2 metre down-climb to reach the traversing break. We climbed the first 3 pitches well; but I am not good enough to lead pitch 4; took a pretty good swing off the chain. Second go I ended up free hanging in mid air, well away from the wall. Then we had an epic to escape. Lots of good practice and lessons learnt!
A very adventurous and committing climb. Nothing in-situ for 2nd and 3rd (semi-hanging) belays. The start of pitch 3 is a 2 metre down-climb to reach the traversing break. We climbed the first 3 pitches well; but I am not good enough to lead pitch 4; took a pretty good swing off the chain. Second go I ended up free hanging in mid air, well away from the wall. Then we had an epic to escape. Lots of good practice and lessons learnt!
buxtoncoffeelover 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf I led The Stalk, Silve took us across the vegetated walls, & I led the wild traverse under the roof - expected more in situ gear than I found. Did first three pitches well enough, but Silve's big falls into space from the last pitch made retreat our only option. Stunning positions, but nothing was easy.
with smoreda
I led The Stalk, Silve took us across the vegetated walls, & I led the wild traverse under the roof - expected more in situ gear than I found. Did first three pitches well enough, but Silve's big falls into space from the last pitch made retreat our only option. Stunning positions, but nothing was easy.
with smoreda
stevenboxwell 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Rachel
with Rachel
lanky 17 Jun, 2018 AltLd Rich linked first 2 pitches together, second pitch is vegetated and loose. Great route overall though, I'd say better then sirplum. The p3 traverse is wild.
with Rich
Rich linked first 2 pitches together, second pitch is vegetated and loose. Great route overall though, I'd say better then sirplum. The p3 traverse is wild.
with Rich
RM199 2 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U Had climbed the 1st two pitches previously before bailing at nightfall!
Had climbed the 1st two pitches previously before bailing at nightfall!
RM199 10 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf 1st and 2nd pitch only before night descended. Helen did not enjoy traverse!
1st and 2nd pitch only before night descended. Helen did not enjoy traverse!
ned_85 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
LBrown 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd Traverse Pitch
Traverse Pitch
James Oakes 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with LBrown
with LBrown
Hidden 8 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Ran the two traverse pitches together into one. Fun. Bit of drag! Shame the loose grassy start of the traverse is so rubbish, puts people off; maybe it'd be better done right to left from Sirplum, then finishing up the VS corner of Big Plum. Awesome main section.
Ran the two traverse pitches together into one. Fun. Bit of drag! Shame the loose grassy start of the traverse is so rubbish, puts people off; maybe it'd be better done right to left from Sirplum, then finishing up the VS corner of Big Plum. Awesome main section.
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S led pitches 1 & 3, did Sirplum finish
with Gavin Singleton
led pitches 1 & 3, did Sirplum finish
with Gavin Singleton
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Small and weak ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
BTphonehome 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with tmawer
with tmawer
tmawer 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S An adventure!
An adventure!
Phill Mitch 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd Brilliant route. Wanted to do this for ages. Derbyshires Dream of white horses.
with bleggs
Brilliant route. Wanted to do this for ages. Derbyshires Dream of white horses.
with bleggs
Rachel Slater 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2 and 4. So much fun.
Lead pitch 2 and 4. So much fun.
Duncan Campbell 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant, the 5a pitches are easier than the 4c ones in my opinion! Such a good laugh these routes, how can the E1s on this buttress not make you smile!?!
Brilliant, the 5a pitches are easier than the 4c ones in my opinion! Such a good laugh these routes, how can the E1s on this buttress not make you smile!?!
Hidden 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
steveb2006 25 Jun, 2014 AltLd First time on the actual route though done all pitches in the past. Great route. Fail on Victoria after - rotten pegs.
with David Andrew
First time on the actual route though done all pitches in the past. Great route. Fail on Victoria after - rotten pegs.
with David Andrew
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
migs493 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S 1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.
with lozowen
1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.
with lozowen
jamesgodwin64 10 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)
with Chiris Fox
Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)
with Chiris Fox
Brown 29 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
Jonathan Hall 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Tamati
with Tamati
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
mark20 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!
with mark20
p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!
with mark20
Hidden ?May, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Brannock 26 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...
Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...
Wil Treasure 4 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Second pitch is a bit grassy, but the third is awesome. Better than Sirplum.
with Jon L
Second pitch is a bit grassy, but the third is awesome. Better than Sirplum.
with Jon L
Hidden 4 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
juza 7 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Garry Cooper
with Garry Cooper
madasten 22 May, 2011 Lead O/S Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest
with Miquel
Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest
with Miquel
rockjedi 4 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
with Andrew James
with Andrew James
Graham Armitage 31 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with john mason
with john mason
Hidden 28 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
melonmike 28 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S pitches 2 and 4
pitches 2 and 4
feilx 10 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with heather rogers, Ian Lovatt
with heather rogers, Ian Lovatt
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Nick Taylor 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.
with Sirion
Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.
with Sirion
tobydunford 3 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Nick Sillum
with Nick Sillum
Andrew Sloan 27 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.
Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.
Martin Haworth 27 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.
Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.
craig d ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.
with heather swift
Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.
with heather swift
mattyork2 30 Jun, 2009 AltLd A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!
with Emma Twyford
A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!
with Emma Twyford
Mike_Hayes 1 Jun, 2009 -
Mr Sparkle 1 Jun, 2009 AltLd
ripper 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!
with Chris Warby
Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!
with Chris Warby
OffshoreAndy 14 May, 2008 AltLd O/S pitch 2 and 4
with UKC Nicos
pitch 2 and 4
with UKC Nicos
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead
russonly 26 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.
with AndyN
Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.
with AndyN
Ben1983 ?May, 2006 AltLd O/S
uphillnow ??, 2000 -
Neil McA 23 Oct, 1993 AltLd O/S
with pete barrass
with pete barrass
Darron ??, 1990 -
with Jes
with Jes
Nick Rundall ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
Bulls Crack ??, 1986 AltLd
with AM
with AM
malc 13 Jul, 1985 AltLd
with JW
with JW
Hidden ?Jul, 1983 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1982 AltLd
with Lyn Noble
with Lyn Noble
Falko 11 Jan, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
with Al W.
Andy Edgar ??, 1975 -
Rick51 17 Jul, 1974 AltLd
Sean Kelly ??, 1974 Lead Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!
Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set