Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in trad limestone climbing. A serious start and long moves between distant gear put this at the upper limit of the grade. Start below the rather high first bolt. Good luck. The route had a controversial history but hopefully now it will remain in its 2 pegs, 2 bolts state. To do a 7c sport route, pre-clip the first bolt above the initial run-out then those climbers who want to attempt a classic E6 still can. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime.

Nickc 05/Oct Lead RP

Great route ! Happy to get this in pretty poor conditions ! Felt 7c+ to me.

JHM 17/Aug Lead RP

First draw pre-clipped.

Matt Cooke 15/Aug Lead RP

1st draw preclipped. 7c+

with JHM
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 04/Aug Lead RP

Great to get the crag’s real ‘hard classic’ done. Such a good route too... 7c if you’re tall.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Aug Lead dog

Pre-clipped the 1st bolt because I like my legs/ankles. So close to doing this in a session, but ran out of time/daylight. Best effort left me falling before the last bolt. So good...

Ethan 20/Jul Lead RP
with Mike Hutton, Don Walker
Haydn Jones 07/Jun/17 Lead RP

First redpoint. Absolutely phenomenal.

Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Aug/16 Lead RP

Amazing route, fingers and sustained. Had the first bolt clipped but have onsighted to here before. 7c+

with Louis
Gus 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

Spicy scenes! Tough, defo 7c+ with some sketchy run outs, especially the last one above the peg on some loose/dirty holds, if that blows you're going miles! Psyched to go back in cooler connies!

with guy van greuning, sam whittaker
hamer89 01/May/15 Lead RP

Fantastic route just needed a good old clean and scrub. Also un-earth the belay! Dont know when this was last done. Wanted to do it the original way clipping the high first bolt. Classic peak limestone E6. Mega!

Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead dog
sharpie ?/Sep/94 Lead RP
with CE
Cowflinger ?/Sep/94 TR RP
with sharpie
Mike Owen 10/Jul/91 Lead RP

After work.

with Andy Popp
Seb Grieve ??/1989 Lead RP

Easier than Boo its neighbour but with longer spicier climbing to first piece of gear and then a little run out.

stp 28/May/88 Lead RP

Done when fully bolted and perhaps the Peak's finest 7c. A lot bloody harder than Body Machine. Completed on day 3.

Bruce Kerr 15/Jul/87 2nd

An early repeat by Colin after a crucial hold had snapped off.

with Colin Gilchrist
Hidden ??/1987 Lead RP
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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
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High E5
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Low E5
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High 6c
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Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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Style of ascent
Not Set