Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in trad limestone climbing. A serious start and long moves between distant gear put this at the upper limit of the grade. Start below the rather high first bolt. Good luck. The route had a controversial history but hopefully now it will remain in its 2 pegs, 2 bolts state. To do a 7c sport route, pre-clip the first bolt above the initial run-out then those climbers who want to attempt a classic E6 still can. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Stoney Boy 3 Jul Lead RP Nearly slipped off right at the top but a shout of encouragement from Chee Dale Lege John Hart kept me on. Superb route.
with Nickc
Nearly slipped off right at the top but a shout of encouragement from Chee Dale Lege John Hart kept me on. Superb route.
with Nickc
nathanlee 2 Jun Lead O/S Slapped from the ground upwards with no expectations. Began to believe near the top but almost slipped off a muddy crimp high up. Luckily in the middle you can get a lot of weight on your feet. Amazing route. This, body machine and eye of the tiger make a pretty good trio of classic 7c+‘s. Had the first bolt preclipped, as everyone does.
with goli
Slapped from the ground upwards with no expectations. Began to believe near the top but almost slipped off a muddy crimp high up. Luckily in the middle you can get a lot of weight on your feet. Amazing route. This, body machine and eye of the tiger make a pretty good trio of classic 7c+‘s. Had the first bolt preclipped, as everyone does.
with goli
steepstuff 25 May Lead RP Classic!
with Rob
Classic!
with Rob
dominic lee 23 May Lead RP Thought I’d missed the boat... Superb & historic . 7c+. Glued up the fragile undercuts so they should last now.
with daniel lee
Thought I’d missed the boat... Superb & historic . 7c+. Glued up the fragile undercuts so they should last now.
with daniel lee
nai 20 May Lead RP As a sport route, solid 7c+.
with Jim
As a sport route, solid 7c+.
with Jim
Nickc 5 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Great route ! Happy to get this in pretty poor conditions ! Felt 7c+ to me.
Great route ! Happy to get this in pretty poor conditions ! Felt 7c+ to me.
JHM 17 Aug, 2018 Lead RP First draw pre-clipped.
First draw pre-clipped.
Matt Cooke 15 Aug, 2018 Lead RP 1st draw preclipped. 7c+
with JHM
1st draw preclipped. 7c+
with JHM
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 4 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Great to get the crag’s real ‘hard classic’ done. Such a good route too... 7c if you’re tall.
Great to get the crag’s real ‘hard classic’ done. Such a good route too... 7c if you’re tall.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 1 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Pre-clipped the 1st bolt because I like my legs/ankles. So close to doing this in a session, but ran out of time/daylight. Best effort left me falling before the last bolt. So good...
Pre-clipped the 1st bolt because I like my legs/ankles. So close to doing this in a session, but ran out of time/daylight. Best effort left me falling before the last bolt. So good...
Ethan 20 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with Mike Hutton, Don Walker
with Mike Hutton, Don Walker
Haydn Jones 7 Jun, 2017 Lead RP First redpoint. Absolutely phenomenal.
First redpoint. Absolutely phenomenal.
Dave Musgrove Jnr 4 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Amazing route, fingers and sustained. Had the first bolt clipped but have onsighted to here before. 7c+
with Louis
Amazing route, fingers and sustained. Had the first bolt clipped but have onsighted to here before. 7c+
with Louis
Gus 27 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Spicy scenes! Tough, defo 7c+ with some sketchy run outs, especially the last one above the peg on some loose/dirty holds, if that blows you're going miles! Psyched to go back in cooler connies!
with guy van greuning, sam whittaker
Spicy scenes! Tough, defo 7c+ with some sketchy run outs, especially the last one above the peg on some loose/dirty holds, if that blows you're going miles! Psyched to go back in cooler connies!
with guy van greuning, sam whittaker
hamer89 1 May, 2015 Lead RP Fantastic route just needed a good old clean and scrub. Also un-earth the belay! Dont know when this was last done. Wanted to do it the original way clipping the high first bolt. Classic peak limestone E6. Mega!
Fantastic route just needed a good old clean and scrub. Also un-earth the belay! Dont know when this was last done. Wanted to do it the original way clipping the high first bolt. Classic peak limestone E6. Mega!
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
sharpie ?Sep, 1994 Lead RP
with CE
with CE
Cowflinger ?Sep, 1994 TR RP
with sharpie
with sharpie
Mike Owen 10 Jul, 1991 Lead RP After work.
with Andy Popp
After work.
with Andy Popp
Seb Grieve ??, 1989 Lead RP Easier than Boo its neighbour but with longer spicier climbing to first piece of gear and then a little run out.
Easier than Boo its neighbour but with longer spicier climbing to first piece of gear and then a little run out.
stp 28 May, 1988 Lead RP Done when fully bolted and perhaps the Peak's finest 7c. A lot bloody harder than Body Machine. Completed on day 3.
Done when fully bolted and perhaps the Peak's finest 7c. A lot bloody harder than Body Machine. Completed on day 3.
Bruce Kerr 15 Jul, 1987 2nd An early repeat by Colin after a crucial hold had snapped off.
with Colin Gilchrist
An early repeat by Colin after a crucial hold had snapped off.
with Colin Gilchrist
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set