Rockfax Description
A fantastic, but often frustrating and energy sapping route which is getting rather polished. Very safe, but strenuous to make it so. Climb to the groove and bridge up this until a layback sequence is demanded. If successful, move left to easier climbing leading to the break. Direct finish - straight up from the top of the groove. © Rockfax

FA. T.Proctor, C.Jackson 8.71. FA. (Direct finish) G.Gibson, I.Riddington 24.5.84 Aug/1971

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 29/Jul Lead O/S

Very hard!

with Sophie Keltie
Matt Cooke 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Rosh
mrteale 22/Jun Lead dog

Pumpy! Got in a bad position on the smeary crux and came off. Very cool route though, will like to come back and get it clean.

Haydn Jones 18/Jun Lead O/S

Hard on the feet this one. Got really pumped feet

with Tom adams
Adam Long 24/May Lead dog

Hmm, thought I had done before but not sure. Fine up to crux, but blocked hold with runner partly due to knackered stuck wire which needs removing, and ended up resting. Felt solid E4, but a little beta could have made a big difference.

with Martyn Howes
Duncan Campbell 03/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Despite being obviously wet, Tony decided this would be the warm-up for me to do Autobahn. I even tried telling him it was supposed to be desperate. He got up to the crux, went up and down a load of times then impressively down-climbed. Sensing this would probably take most of the evening, I said I'd have a go. Glad Tony's gear was in as it was very slippery and precarious all the way up the lower groove. I made a move or so into the crux but fell. Was still a little smeggy in the crack but mainly it was very hard to trust your feet again with wet boots. Tony managed it next go (#waddage). I overestimated how much time we had left so got him to strip it. Will be back for it in better conditions!

with Tony Stone
Simon Davis 31/Jul/16 Lead

Second go, tough.

Hidden 21/Jul/16 Lead G/U
ukb & bmc shark 14/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Jon Fullwood
James Oswald ?/Jul/16 Lead dog

Hard! Fell off on the crux, lowered to the ground. Then did it with one rest before the crux - was very pumped at the top. Excellent route.

with Will
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Humbling... Pembroke E5 6b?

Misha 26/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Finally got this clean, albeit on second (tried it twice before a few years ago but didn't do it clean). Short and sharp crux requiring trusting slippery feet in a layback position. Start is pretty goey as well. LH finish as previously.

with Rob G
robertmctague 05/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Second go, hard, dirty and great.

with Theo
oread 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S


markalmack 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Hard when dirty!

Rachel Slater 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Quite simply, nails.

Justin T 04/Aug/14 Lead dog

Awesome sandbag!

with Rachel
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead dnf
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Alex@home 11/Jul/13 Lead dog

hard. and pumpy. and dirty - when was this last climbed? bit disappointed not to get the onsight but gave it my all and fell just before the rotten stuck wire. after a rest i found a better way of doing that section which is easier and less strenuous. next time...

with The Doctor
Hannes B 28/Mar/12 2nd
with Sam H
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead
Brown 01/Oct/11 2nd
with Henry
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/11 2nd

really hard! looks pretty grubby from the ground but is mainly clean

with greg
Speeddemonsi 02/Jul/11 Lead
Misha 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

Had been hoping to get it clean this time. Getting to the crux wasn't easy but not too bad. Unfortunately then had the usual problem - couldn't read the moves quickly enough, so fell off the crux. Got back on, made a bit more progress and slipped off carelessly. Got it third go (sort of laybacking). Clean to the top after the crux, going left at the thread, then finishing direct past a hard section which was a bit dirty. Disappointed not to get this clean.

with Tom, Mark
tuftynick 19/May/11 2nd rpt
with ben winston
masa-alpin 17/Apr/11 Lead dog

Fell at the crux once, then had a rest before and after the crux for each. Disappointed. But it was an excellent route.

with Ed P
Michael Ryan 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Lucian Cottle, Chris Plant, Nic Kidd, Mark Leach, Craig Smith
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Tim Raffle, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Bry 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Trys
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Misha 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Dogged it to the crux, getting increasingly knackered. Fell off the crux a few times (couldn't quite get the balance right), then gave up. Top roped without too much of a problem after Brian led the route. Another one to come back and do cleanly.

Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead β
Adam Ellwood ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
DavidEvans ?/Jul/09 2nd
Adam Ellwood 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
skygodley 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2008 -
nige 23/Aug/07 Lead
with sven rowan
Toby Dunn 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Ram MkiV 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Alex Mason 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

lead on steves 'pre-placed' gear, although i hung around a little to get a more acceptable tick. finished up the big flake on left, direct looked mucky and crap.

Ian Jones ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 09/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with Mike Garton
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nokishatov 07/Jun/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with mik
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/94 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove 04/Jul/93 2nd
with David
Hidden ?/Jun/93 Lead
Roget 28/Mar/93 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 14/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with KM
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead
Tony Little 19/Aug/92 Lead RP
with Merk
Hidden 16/May/92 Lead
wynaptomos ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/91 2nd
Hidden ??/1991 -
Campbell42 16/Sep/90 2nd
with Chris Wilson
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
andybirtwistle 19/May/90 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with Leeds Crew
Dave Douglas 20/Jul/89 2nd O/S
with Stuart Cameron
phardman 25/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Lead
craig d ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 30/Apr/89 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll
Hidden 13/Apr/89 Lead
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 17/May/88 Lead rpt
with Ian McMullan
Greg Cunningham ?/May/88 Lead dog

1 rest/fall I think

ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
with John Codling
Stoney Boy ?/Jun/87 2nd
with Steve Wigmore
rob.grafton ??/1987 -
Derek Furze ??/1986 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 2nd
sadams 27/Jul/85 2nd
with Robin Curley
Dave Musgrove 03/Jul/85 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 25/May/85 -
Mike Owen 17/May/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
ukb & bmc shark 26/Apr/85 Lead
with Dave Marsh
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
sadams 23/Jun/84 2nd
with Pete Herrod
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
with Rich Lewis, Robert Kieske, Mick Ward, Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 02/Aug/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson 02/Aug/81 2nd
with Chris Plant
redjerry ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
Mark Kemball 11/May/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
jon ?/Apr/80 Lead
with henry
Andy Edgar ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Mick Hardwick
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set