UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall - the threads are the gear. Follow this up rightwards past a bolt, and some threads, then move up and back left (bolt). Move back right then step back left into the groove (bolts). Continue up to the main break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first two threads have been retro bolted. All the threads are in good condition summer 2017.

The line of Deja Vu is a little confusing these days as there are so many variations on that wall now. I think it's best to use two ropes.

The first two threads have been replaced by bolts and they are a little higher than the threads were. The start, even getting off the gound, is powerful and unprotected. Some people use a pad or clipstick these days. The first three bolts are shared with a few other routes. At the third bolt move right and then up to a good thread and continue up to another thread and a shake out. From here it is possible to traverse left a move and clip a bolt on Visitation then move back to the rest. Continue up the white rock above placing two or three good wires to gain a point where there are two grooves with bolts in them. Don't climb the one directly above, rather step left and climb up on small sharp crimps and move slightly left to a double bolt belay with two karabiners directly below the roof.

FA. Pete Gomersall, Jill Lawrence 1975. As an aid route which continued over the roof. FFA (Pitch 1). Ron Fawcett 1980

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Paul Figg 23/Jul/17 Lead RP

Some of the best quality rock at Kilnsey.

robertmctague 29/May/17 Lead

As a sport route. Technically I didn't do it because I took a (rather large) practice fall from the top jugs. Really good, as good as visitation.

with Martin
Flavio 20/May/17 Lead

In poor style though really its now just a badly bolted sport route but so good I climbed it three times, yes that's the reason why...

Hidden ??/2017 -
Steve Crowe ??/2017 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Warm down - not particularly relaxing!

MichaelGallimore 20/Jun/16 Lead dog

Climbed as a sport route after the middle bolts were chopped. Took a big whipper from just below the niche. Dogged through the second crux once the bolts starts again.

with Nigel
Nigel Bond 20/Jun/16 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??/2016 -
piken ??/2016 -
Steve Crowe ??/2016 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
datoon 10/Sep/15 Lead rpt
WB 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Saw Mark struggled with too few quick draws earlier in the year, then did the same thing. Doh

with Chris
markalmack 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Felt like e5 with the amount of clips I took with me. Not sure I would have done it if some chopper hadn't put tick marks all over it. Cough dave morse

david morse 17/Jul/15 Lead RP

Great moves in the top groove. 7a+/b

with Megan
NDD 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Clip up, 7bish.

with Mcmanus
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead dog
phil64 ??/2015 -
Steve Crowe ??/2015 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
fellrunner 12/Aug/14 Lead

Had 3goes to do start felt slippy, brill climbing on head wall final groove testy well pleased to rp it with dill

Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd β
Alistair Corbett 07/Jun/14 Lead dog

no tick got way to pumped but got to the groove... il take the E4 tho

with Sam hamer, Ed
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Neill
Steve Crowe ??/2014 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Hidden 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 26/Apr/13 Lead

Fell on last move

with Steve Franklin
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
datoon ??/2013 Lead RP
captain ??/2013 -
Steve Crowe ??/2013 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Ally Smith 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Matt the hunt saboteur
Steve Crowe ??/2012 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Hidden 22/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Scraggadoo 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell off on penultimate move, almost got this

GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Steve Crowe ??/2011 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
uptown 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
akhughes 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jordan Buys
Rich Kirby 29/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Steve Crowe ??/2010 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Alex Mason 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Awesomely nice route, nearly fell off the start, phew. Steady after that, finished E4 though in the groove.

with Joel Nunn
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead β
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Steve Crowe ??/2009 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead β
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead rpt
bigie bob 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??/2008 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Ram MkiV 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

had to really battle hard in the top groove, dynamically on last move to jug.

with mike, jo
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mgeek 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with ian moody
Steve Crowe ??/2007 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Cassidy 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Steve Crowe ??/2006 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??/2005 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Steve Crowe ??/2004 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Dave Musgrove 22/Apr/03 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Apr/03 Lead rpt

to the roof

with Dad
Steve Crowe ??/2003 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Steve Crowe ??/2002 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
Steve Crowe ??/2001 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

with KM
innes ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jun/00 Lead
with malc smith
Billg ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Paul Greenland
Steve Crowe ??/2000 Lead rpt

Multiple ascents, usual warm up.

Steve Crowe 11/Jun/98 Lead O/S

Clean and onsight on the day, all the way to the new bolt belay at the roof.

with KM
sadams 27/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove 01/Jul/96 Lead
with David
Roget 22/Jul/95 Lead G/U
with baccy
nokishatov 13/Jul/95 2nd O/S
ste_d 10/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
robyn1 ??/1995 -
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead O/S

Not gone direct at top

Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Dave Turnbull 09/Jul/94 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Jul/94 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 02/Jul/94 2nd
with David
mattnuttall ?/Jun/94 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
Dave Musgrove 09/Apr/94 2nd

To last bolt -top was wet.

with David
mattnuttall 06/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
jfletcher 05/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Alastair R ?/Jun/93 Lead G/U
Rich Kirby 29/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Sean Coffey
Hidden 19/Jul/92 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 18/Jul/92 Lead RP

The old E4 version 2nd RP in 1992, before it was extended to the roof.

with KM
Eduardo Martinez 16/Jul/92 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Jun/92 Lead RP

1st RP

Cowflinger ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
dominic lee 01/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
Hidden 24/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden ?/May/90 -
keefe ??/1990 -
andybirtwistle 18/Jun/89 Lead RP
Hidden 19/May/89 Lead
Campbell42 ??/1988 2nd O/S
with Duncan Drake
Bruce Kerr 06/Jun/87 2nd
with Dr Alan Taylor, Murray Hamilton
Hidden ?/Jun/87 -
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/86 AltLd
Mike Owen 05/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Dave Turnbull ?/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 17
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set