Rockfax Description
An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall - the threads are the gear. Follow this up rightwards past a bolt, and some threads, then move up and back left (bolt). Move back right then step back left into the groove (bolts). Continue up to the main break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first two threads have been retro bolted. All the threads are in good condition summer 2017.

The line of Deja Vu is a little confusing these days as there are so many variations on that wall now. I think it's best to use two ropes.

The first two threads have been replaced by bolts and they are a little higher than the threads were. The start, even getting off the gound, is powerful and unprotected. Some people use a pad or clipstick these days. The first three bolts are shared with a few other routes. At the third bolt move right and then up to a good thread and continue up to another thread and a shake out. From here it is possible to traverse left a move and clip a bolt on Visitation then move back to the rest. Continue up the white rock above placing two or three good wires to gain a point where there are two grooves with bolts in them. Don't climb the one directly above, rather step left and climb up on small sharp crimps and move slightly left to a double bolt belay with two karabiners directly below the roof.

FA. Pete Gomersall, Jill Lawrence 1975. As an aid route which continued over the roof. FFA (Pitch 1). Ron Fawcett 1980

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Steve Crowe 25 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of lefts and rights in and out of grooves... Impossible to follow at the crag!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of lefts and rights in and out of grooves... Impossible to follow at the crag!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Owen Diba 8 Jun Lead O/S
Kim M 28 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with Nige M
with Nige M
Nige M ?May, 2018 Lead RP
with Tyler
with Tyler
Climber53 ??, 2018 -
Paul Figg 23 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Some of the best quality rock at Kilnsey.
Some of the best quality rock at Kilnsey.
robertmctague 29 May, 2017 Lead As a sport route. Technically I didn't do it because I took a (rather large) practice fall from the top jugs. Really good, as good as visitation.
with Martin
As a sport route. Technically I didn't do it because I took a (rather large) practice fall from the top jugs. Really good, as good as visitation.
with Martin
Flavio 20 May, 2017 Lead In poor style though really its now just a badly bolted sport route but so good I climbed it three times, yes that's the reason why...
In poor style though really its now just a badly bolted sport route but so good I climbed it three times, yes that's the reason why...
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2017 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Dave Musgrove Jnr 5 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt Warm down - not particularly relaxing!
Warm down - not particularly relaxing!
Hidden 20 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
Nigel Bond 20 Jun, 2016 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2016 -
piken ??, 2016 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2016 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
datoon 10 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
WB 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Saw Mark struggled with too few quick draws earlier in the year, then did the same thing. Doh
Saw Mark struggled with too few quick draws earlier in the year, then did the same thing. Doh
markalmack 21 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Felt like e5 with the amount of clips I took with me. Not sure I would have done it if some chopper hadn't put tick marks all over it. Cough dave morse
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Felt like e5 with the amount of clips I took with me. Not sure I would have done it if some chopper hadn't put tick marks all over it. Cough dave morse
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
david morse 17 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Great moves in the top groove. 7a+/b
with Megan
Great moves in the top groove. 7a+/b
with Megan
NDD 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Clip up, 7bish.
with Mcmanus
Clip up, 7bish.
with Mcmanus
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead dog
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2015 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
fellrunner 12 Aug, 2014 Lead Had 3goes to do start felt slippy, brill climbing on head wall final groove testy well pleased to rp it with dill
Had 3goes to do start felt slippy, brill climbing on head wall final groove testy well pleased to rp it with dill
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd β
hamer89 9 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant rock and the lines ace, went all the way to the break. First trad at the crag.
Brilliant rock and the lines ace, went all the way to the break. First trad at the crag.
Alistair Corbett 7 Jun, 2014 Lead dog no tick got way to pumped but got to the groove... il take the E4 tho
with Sam hamer, Ed
no tick got way to pumped but got to the groove... il take the E4 tho
with Sam hamer, Ed
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tim Neill
with Tim Neill
Steve Crowe ??, 2014 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Hidden 13 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Apharri 26 Apr, 2013 Lead Fell on last move
with Steve Franklin
Fell on last move
with Steve Franklin
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
datoon ??, 2013 Lead RP
captain ??, 2013 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2013 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Ally Smith 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Matt the hunt saboteur
with Matt the hunt saboteur
Steve Crowe ??, 2012 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Hidden 22 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf
Scraggadoo 4 Jun, 2011 Lead dog Fell off on penultimate move, almost got this
Fell off on penultimate move, almost got this
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2011 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
uptown 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
with Toby Dunn
akhughes 26 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 5 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jordan Buys
with Jordan Buys
Rich Kirby 29 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
with Gareth
with Gareth
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2010 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Alex Mason 13 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Awesomely nice route, nearly fell off the start, phew. Steady after that, finished E4 though in the groove.
with Joel Nunn
Awesomely nice route, nearly fell off the start, phew. Steady after that, finished E4 though in the groove.
with Joel Nunn
Hidden 30 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead β
Steve Crowe ??, 2009 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Hidden 29 Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 26 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 21 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
bigie bob 2 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??, 2008 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Ram MkiV 2 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S had to really battle hard in the top groove, dynamically on last move to jug.
with mike, jo
had to really battle hard in the top groove, dynamically on last move to jug.
with mike, jo
ali_robb ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
mgeek 1 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with ian moody
with ian moody
Steve Crowe ??, 2007 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Cassidy 12 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
with Scottish Raiding Party
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2006 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??, 2005 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Steve Crowe ??, 2004 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Dave Musgrove 22 Apr, 2003 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22 Apr, 2003 Lead rpt to the roof
to the roof
Steve Crowe ??, 2003 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Steve Crowe ??, 2002 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Steve Crowe ??, 2001 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
with karin
innes ?Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?Jun, 2000 Lead
with malc smith
with malc smith
Billg ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Steve Crowe ??, 2000 Lead rpt Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
Multiple ascents, usual warm up.
Steve Crowe 11 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S Clean and onsight on the day, all the way to the new bolt belay at the roof.
with karin
Clean and onsight on the day, all the way to the new bolt belay at the roof.
with karin
Neil McA 14 May, 1998 2nd rpt
with Rad
with Rad
sadams 27 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove 1 Jul, 1996 Lead
Roget 22 Jul, 1995 Lead G/U
with baccy
with baccy
Mike_d78 13 Jul, 1995 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 10 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
UKB Shark ??, 1995 Lead O/S Not gone direct at top
Not gone direct at top
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Dave Turnbull 9 Jul, 1994 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell
with Nigel Birtwell
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 Jul, 1994 Lead
Dave Musgrove 2 Jul, 1994 2nd
mattnuttall ?Jun, 1994 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
Hidden 14 May, 1994 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 9 Apr, 1994 2nd To last bolt -top was wet.
To last bolt -top was wet.
mattnuttall 6 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
jfletcher 5 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
Alastair R ?Jun, 1993 Lead G/U
Rich Kirby 29 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
with Sean Coffey
with Sean Coffey
Hidden 19 Jul, 1992 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 18 Jul, 1992 Lead RP The old E4 version 2nd RP in 1992, before it was extended to the roof.
with karin
The old E4 version 2nd RP in 1992, before it was extended to the roof.
with karin
Eduardo Martinez 16 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?Jun, 1992 Lead RP 1st RP
1st RP
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Hidden ??, 1992 2nd
dominic lee 1 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
Hidden 24 Jun, 1990 Lead
ajtay ?May, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
GaryM ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Dale
with Dale
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 Lead RP
keefe ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
andybirtwistle 18 Jun, 1989 Lead RP
Hidden 19 May, 1989 Lead
Neil McA 15 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S Climbed the first steep section with just a couple of quickdraws, then clipped a thread and stood in balance to pull the rack up, seemed like a good technique!
with Janet Robinson, Dave Green
Climbed the first steep section with just a couple of quickdraws, then clipped a thread and stood in balance to pull the rack up, seemed like a good technique!
with Janet Robinson, Dave Green
Campbell42 ??, 1988 2nd O/S
with Duncan Drake
with Duncan Drake
Bruce Kerr 6 Jun, 1987 2nd
with Dr Alan Taylor, Murray Hamilton
with Dr Alan Taylor, Murray Hamilton
Hidden ?Jun, 1987 -
Hidden ?Sep, 1986 Lead
Hidden 1 Jul, 1986 AltLd
Mike Owen 5 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead
with Terry Ralphs
with Terry Ralphs
Dave Turnbull ?Jul, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set