Rockfax Description
The line through Kilnsey's Main Overhang that they said would never go free. A magnificent route along the obvious diagonal line, which is unfortunately often wet. © Rockfax

FA. M.Leach 1988. 2000

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
JamesTurnbull97 16/Aug/16 Lead RP

Get in. Finally managed to hold the jug at the end of the crux after falling there at every RP and managed to take it to the end. Best route in Yorkshire for line and position.

with Mark Katz
MichaelGallimore 20/Jun/16 Lead dog

Aid climbed through the roof with etriers and daisy chains. Took the line of bolts above deja vu. some long reaches, a couple of moves on cams and dodgy old aid bolts. scary! Abbing off the lip was probably the most scary part. Old peg and bolt backed up with a wire, on old tat. Removed the wire once Nigel was down.

with Nigel
Ally Smith 12/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Ant
Ally Smith 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

4 tie-ins. Final go was a half hearted RP as a thunderstorm started. Beta for crux: Juggy pocket to best (middle) of 3 spikes. Walk feet through to LF on left most chalked hold, deep outside flag and drop RH onto righthand crimp. RF on hidden spike, then LF into heel toe, with heel positioned on outside of jug. Pull in with heel/toe & cross under to drag slot with all 4 fingers of RH. LH over to intermediate pinch and go again to jug past red tat. Best beta for lip: Big drop knee & LH to diagonal. RH match above on edge and then go again to big sloper. High LF to lip and stand up quick.

keefe 24/Aug/14 Lead RP

Delighted to get this done in less than optimal conditions. What a great route.

Ally Smith 08/Aug/13 Lead dog

Arse - wet this evening. However, got useful beta for moves at the lip. High heel to reach slot on lip makes it MUCH easier. Pulling round lip, use 3finger drag and turn righthand onto wobbly block sidepull with BOTH feet over lip to reach next LH slot.

with jkarran
Ally Smith 28/Jul/13 Lead dog

Boss! Need some roof burl training in the next few weeks

with AJM
jacobjacob 20/Jun/13 Lead RP

King Line! Should have done this weeks ago but didn't find a key hold on the lip so fell there three times unnecessarily! Probably soft 8a+ or even hard 8a, but quite difficult to work the moves on so I think worth 8a+ for this reason.

brunomarks 03/Aug/11 Lead RP

Iconic and v different from anything else in N yorkshire. 8a+ max I'd say but you can't select that on the grade voting. One hard crux, the rest is easy. Give it a go!

Ally Smith 02/Aug/11 Lead dog

in 3 on first dog sessions. Uber psyched for this now. Might only be F8a?

with Dave P
bigie bob 18/May/10 Lead RP
kristian ??/2002 Lead RP
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Voting
High 8c
Mid 8c
Low 8c
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged