Rockfax Description
The line through Kilnsey's Main Overhang that they said would never go free. A magnificent route along the obvious diagonal line, which is unfortunately often wet. © Rockfax

FA. M.Leach 1988. 2000

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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UserDateNotes
Chris Craggs 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Also - it still makes at thrilling aid route, all on fixed gear, when the weather is crap. Chris
βeta?
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βeta: Also - it still makes at thrilling aid route, all on fixed gear, when the weather is crap. Chris
Chris Craggs 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: How come its got 11 votes for 8b and its only had three ascents?? Cheesy! Chris
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βeta: How come its got 11 votes for 8b and its only had three ascents?? Cheesy! Chris
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Ethan 2 Aug, 2018 Lead Second go.
with Don Walker
Second go.
with Don Walker
awsomal 24 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Fantastic Route.Climbed from the deck, no resting on belays before roof.
Fantastic Route.Climbed from the deck, no resting on belays before roof.
Ed Booth 11 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Wow mega. Didn't expect to ever get to try this. After ticking the Bulge yesterday morning, I had a bolt to bolt and then a RP at end of day. This morning, bolt to bolted across to check my beta and warm up and then did next Redpoint. Well psyched!
Wow mega. Didn't expect to ever get to try this. After ticking the Bulge yesterday morning, I had a bolt to bolt and then a RP at end of day. This morning, bolt to bolted across to check my beta and warm up and then did next Redpoint. Well psyched!
Luke Dawson 14 May, 2018 Lead RP
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
samwillo 3 Jun, 2017 Lead A big tick off the life list. Roughly 6 sessions in all - highlights include the first terrifying time up into the jungle with loose bolts and spiders, finding a kneebar mid-crux, falling off with two hands and a foot over top lip (so boxed), until finally taking the victory whip with last 3 draws skipped!
with manfred
A big tick off the life list. Roughly 6 sessions in all - highlights include the first terrifying time up into the jungle with loose bolts and spiders, finding a kneebar mid-crux, falling off with two hands and a foot over top lip (so boxed), until finally taking the victory whip with last 3 draws skipped!
with manfred
PeterDawson 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
JamesTurnbull97 16 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Get in. Finally managed to hold the jug at the end of the crux after falling there at every RP and managed to take it to the end. Best route in Yorkshire for line and position.
with Mark Katz
Get in. Finally managed to hold the jug at the end of the crux after falling there at every RP and managed to take it to the end. Best route in Yorkshire for line and position.
with Mark Katz
Hidden 20 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
Nigel Bond 20 Jun, 2016 2nd
Ally Smith 12 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with Ant
with Ant
Ally Smith 5 Jul, 2015 Lead dog 4 tie-ins. Final go was a half hearted RP as a thunderstorm started. Beta for crux: Juggy pocket to best (middle) of 3 spikes. Walk feet through to LF on left most chalked hold, deep outside flag and drop RH onto righthand crimp. RF on hidden spike, then LF into heel toe, with heel positioned on outside of jug. Pull in with heel/toe & cross under to drag slot with all 4 fingers of RH. LH over to intermediate pinch and go again to jug past red tat. Best beta for lip: Big drop knee & LH to diagonal. RH match above on edge and then go again to big sloper. High LF to lip and stand up quick.
4 tie-ins. Final go was a half hearted RP as a thunderstorm started. Beta for crux: Juggy pocket to best (middle) of 3 spikes. Walk feet through to LF on left most chalked hold, deep outside flag and drop RH onto righthand crimp. RF on hidden spike, then LF into heel toe, with heel positioned on outside of jug. Pull in with heel/toe & cross under to drag slot with all 4 fingers of RH. LH over to intermediate pinch and go again to jug past red tat. Best beta for lip: Big drop knee & LH to diagonal. RH match above on edge and then go again to big sloper. High LF to lip and stand up quick.
keefe 24 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Delighted to get this done in less than optimal conditions. What a great route.
Delighted to get this done in less than optimal conditions. What a great route.
Ally Smith 8 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Arse - wet this evening. However, got useful beta for moves at the lip. High heel to reach slot on lip makes it MUCH easier. Pulling round lip, use 3finger drag and turn righthand onto wobbly block sidepull with BOTH feet over lip to reach next LH slot.
with jkarran
Arse - wet this evening. However, got useful beta for moves at the lip. High heel to reach slot on lip makes it MUCH easier. Pulling round lip, use 3finger drag and turn righthand onto wobbly block sidepull with BOTH feet over lip to reach next LH slot.
with jkarran
jacobjacob 20 Jun, 2013 Lead RP King Line! Should have done this weeks ago but didn't find a key hold on the lip so fell there three times unnecessarily! Probably soft 8a+ or even hard 8a, but quite difficult to work the moves on so I think worth 8a+ for this reason.
King Line! Should have done this weeks ago but didn't find a key hold on the lip so fell there three times unnecessarily! Probably soft 8a+ or even hard 8a, but quite difficult to work the moves on so I think worth 8a+ for this reason.
brunomarks 3 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Iconic and v different from anything else in N yorkshire. 8a+ max I'd say but you can't select that on the grade voting. One hard crux, the rest is easy. Give it a go!
Iconic and v different from anything else in N yorkshire. 8a+ max I'd say but you can't select that on the grade voting. One hard crux, the rest is easy. Give it a go!
Hidden 18 May, 2010 Lead RP
bigie bob 18 May, 2010 Lead RP
kristian ??, 2002 Lead RP
21 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8c
Mid 8c
Low 8c
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set