20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, Northern Limestone for Catalans, 2019 Targets

Feedback

UserDateNotes
RD 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts are spaced - stupid bolting! If you've dogged it to the top with a clip stick it's a straight forward route to RP. On-sight with no prior knowledge it's harder to clip the bolts than to climb it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts are spaced - stupid bolting! If you've dogged it to the top with a clip stick it's a straight forward route to RP. On-sight with no prior knowledge it's harder to clip the bolts than to climb it!
Andy Farnell 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree it's solid 7c. The bottom wall is the crux but you need a bit in reserve for the finish. Bolts are spaced, adding character...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree it's solid 7c. The bottom wall is the crux but you need a bit in reserve for the finish. Bolts are spaced, adding character...
RD 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: solid 7c even with the bigger hold - the crux was always the lower part. Shame that the bolts are so badly positioned - best to ask someone else to put the quickdraws in for you!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: solid 7c even with the bigger hold - the crux was always the lower part. Shame that the bolts are so badly positioned - best to ask someone else to put the quickdraws in for you!
Mick Lovatt 10 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Has now been re-bolted (eventually)! I'll sort out that glue-on later in the summer.. can't have a route of mine put down into the punter stakes! but then again I suppose it always was? The route name was an American import (nothing to do with climbing though) Full title " A Biological Need For A Boys Night Out"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has now been re-bolted (eventually)! I'll sort out that glue-on later in the summer.. can't have a route of mine put down into the punter stakes! but then again I suppose it always was? The route name was an American import (nothing to do with climbing though) Full title " A Biological Need For A Boys Night Out"
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Sut 4 Jun Lead RP
Jason livesey 3 Jun TR dog
with Mali
with Mali
emma1987 28 May TR dog First go, got the moves.
First go, got the moves.
Emilysaladfingers 16 Sep, 2018 Lead dog oh so close to finishing this off! Spent the summer on this amazing line. Took a good few sessions to get it all sorted, especially the burly top which most people tell me is the easy bit haha! Then proceeded to climb to above the glue on jug, then to fall off either getting heel on or rocking up approx. 55 times. Gutted that it's now wet but there's always next year and it's such amazing climbing! :)
oh so close to finishing this off! Spent the summer on this amazing line. Took a good few sessions to get it all sorted, especially the burly top which most people tell me is the easy bit haha! Then proceeded to climb to above the glue on jug, then to fall off either getting heel on or rocking up approx. 55 times. Gutted that it's now wet but there's always next year and it's such amazing climbing! :)
jolucas 12 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
atapper21 12 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with jolucas
with jolucas
Ally Smith 21 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go. Sketching so bad; scrappy-dappy-doo!
with hms
2nd go. Sketching so bad; scrappy-dappy-doo!
with hms
Dan Arkle 18 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
John Thornton 7 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Owen Diba 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 2nd RP, end of the day, second day on, so tired but so enjoyable
2nd RP, end of the day, second day on, so tired but so enjoyable
Tim Rodgers 30 Jun, 2018 TR An attempt of sorts
with Emily, L.miura
An attempt of sorts
with Emily, L.miura
Mat Welsh 18 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Good to climb this again, pleased to tick it first go after finishing Metal Guru.
Good to climb this again, pleased to tick it first go after finishing Metal Guru.
Robb Bert 5 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
with Kate Hawkins
with Kate Hawkins
Mat Welsh 4 Jun, 2018 Lead RP First go today(3 Days plus 3 other climbs in total) - Absolute class line all the way linking good moves on perfect rock & some superb committing sequences. Sustained, technical and a bouldery steep finish. High in the grade.
First go today(3 Days plus 3 other climbs in total) - Absolute class line all the way linking good moves on perfect rock & some superb committing sequences. Sustained, technical and a bouldery steep finish. High in the grade.
Hidden 29 May, 2018 Lead
khawk 22 May, 2018 Lead RP
Ethan 22 May, 2018 Lead
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
Mat Welsh 14 May, 2018 Lead dog Lead clean from second clip to the chains on my fourth go today, had my first day on it last Fri but it was so cold I had numb fingers(and body it seemed) all day and it felt harder, despite the better friction ! Just need some good conditions & skin to get it ticked, some sustained and hard techy climbing with a marginal rest(due to a recently lost hold) before the more powerful finish.
Lead clean from second clip to the chains on my fourth go today, had my first day on it last Fri but it was so cold I had numb fingers(and body it seemed) all day and it felt harder, despite the better friction ! Just need some good conditions & skin to get it ticked, some sustained and hard techy climbing with a marginal rest(due to a recently lost hold) before the more powerful finish.
Hidden 10 May, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead dog
stp 1 May, 2018 Lead RP First redpoint try after putting the draws in. Completely dry today. Felt solid on this.
with Ben Moon
First redpoint try after putting the draws in. Completely dry today. Felt solid on this.
with Ben Moon
stp 24 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Completely dry apart from sidepull near the second bolt - at least two ways to miss this out though. Rained all afternoon and a bit too cold later.
with Ben Moon
Completely dry apart from sidepull near the second bolt - at least two ways to miss this out though. Rained all afternoon and a bit too cold later.
with Ben Moon
datoon 21 Apr, 2018 Lead RP 2nd redpoint
with K
2nd redpoint
with K
nicolat ??, 2018 Lead dog
PeteH 6 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Think I started trying this at a particular strength/stamina low point, but still surprised how long it took me. Brilliant route, shame the start is so often wet.
Think I started trying this at a particular strength/stamina low point, but still surprised how long it took me. Brilliant route, shame the start is so often wet.
will9911 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Good to tick this a few weeks after my arm was out of a cast, showing no strength was required!
Good to tick this a few weeks after my arm was out of a cast, showing no strength was required!
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
PeterDawson 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2017 Lead dog
robertmctague 23 Apr, 2017 Lead RP In a session pretty much, had tried once a few years ago and couldn't touch it. Fell off the top jugs on one attempt because I hadn't rehearsed it.
with Martin
In a session pretty much, had tried once a few years ago and couldn't touch it. Fell off the top jugs on one attempt because I hadn't rehearsed it.
with Martin
Hidden ??, 2017 -
stp 17 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Start was wet so worked from second bolt to top. Felt much stronger than earlier in the year. Great route, nicely bolted.
with Chris Plant
Start was wet so worked from second bolt to top. Felt much stronger than earlier in the year. Great route, nicely bolted.
with Chris Plant
nai 13 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf only had 1.5 attempts, should have stuck at it, top bulge seemed nails but the rest was coming together.
with Theo
only had 1.5 attempts, should have stuck at it, top bulge seemed nails but the rest was coming together.
with Theo
miastacey 12 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
realbobsmith 7 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
piken 2 Jul, 2016 Lead RP classic
classic
Greg Cunningham 1 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Felt really hard and painful holds - will leave it for a while.
with nick warren
Felt really hard and painful holds - will leave it for a while.
with nick warren
Ramon Marin 26 Jun, 2016 Lead RP 3 attempts
3 attempts
markalmack 25 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Hidden 24 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
blaza1 24 Jun, 2016 Lead dog fell off at the crux, great route
with Mark Richardson, liam jones, dan kyte
fell off at the crux, great route
with Mark Richardson, liam jones, dan kyte
stp 20 Jun, 2016 TR dnf First outdoor climbing since ankle sprain. Just on Debbie's TR. Two goes only - midge invasion. Did all moves to undercut above glued holds but bottom felt hard and not so good for poorly finger.
with Debbie
First outdoor climbing since ankle sprain. Just on Debbie's TR. Two goes only - midge invasion. Did all moves to undercut above glued holds but bottom felt hard and not so good for poorly finger.
with Debbie
samrad 16 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Good route. Also fell off the last move of dominatrix. Next time.
with Bennykr
Good route. Also fell off the last move of dominatrix. Next time.
with Bennykr
nickmoulden ?Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 9 May, 2016 Lead RP Glad to have got this done. Got close to doing it in a session last year, then didn't... Feels pretty top end for 7c and quite go-ey due to the bolting, which is sparse (but good).
Glad to have got this done. Got close to doing it in a session last year, then didn't... Feels pretty top end for 7c and quite go-ey due to the bolting, which is sparse (but good).
awsomal 8 May, 2016 Lead RP
Eduardo Martinez ??, 2016 -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
oread 29 Aug, 2015 Lead First 7c, 2 sessions
First 7c, 2 sessions
Glyn 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Wild move to get the spike, full on dyno! Sure there must be as easier way...Did not expect to get this onsight. Fantastic route
with Amy UT
Wild move to get the spike, full on dyno! Sure there must be as easier way...Did not expect to get this onsight. Fantastic route
with Amy UT
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Albert Exley 5 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
with Wizzy
with Wizzy
robman 22 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf Did all the moves apart from bottling at the end!
Did all the moves apart from bottling at the end!
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 21 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Leon Laubscher 6 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
C coldwell-storry 17 May, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Seb Grieve ??, 2015 -
henry peter jenkins 8 Sep, 2014 Lead RP fun fingery route with an exciting finish :)
with luis bachini
fun fingery route with an exciting finish :)
with luis bachini
Luke Dawson 2 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
with Connor Bryne
with Connor Bryne
innes 31 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with Ruth
with Ruth
henry peter jenkins 30 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
with ian
with ian
BillyRidal 1 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
FloTilley ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with Sarah Pashley
with Sarah Pashley
nickmoulden 8 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
jfreeman 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Adam Jeffs
with Adam Jeffs
thebigfriendlymoose 14 Jun, 2014 Lead RP In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!
with Sam Harvie
In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!
with Sam Harvie
Bennykr 22 May, 2014 Lead RP Class route. 1 RP.
Class route. 1 RP.
atapper21 22 May, 2014 Lead RP
with Ben Reinsch
with Ben Reinsch
WB 14 Aug, 2013 Lead RP 1st 7c - whoop
with Nick
1st 7c - whoop
with Nick
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 27 May, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 8 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 5 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 4 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 28 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead RP
GPN 7 Aug, 2011 Lead dog Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!
Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!
Hidden 28 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 24 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 15 May, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Sean_J 9 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
with Andy
with Andy
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 Lead
derico 1 Jul, 2010 Lead RP Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c
with Cal
Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c
with Cal
NDD 11 Jun, 2010 Lead 2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.
2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.
nickmoulden 18 May, 2010 Lead RP
with Ako
with Ako
Jon Garside ?May, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
marcpontin ??, 2010 Lead RP awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves
with huw
awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves
with huw
JM ??, 2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??, 2010 Lead
JM ??, 2010 -
Alex Mason 16 Aug, 2009 Lead RP Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.
Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 Lead β
buzby78 9 Jul, 2009 Lead RP 3rd go!
with Sam Clarke
3rd go!
with Sam Clarke
dominic lee 5 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
with neil foster
with neil foster
Gus 4 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
ksjs 24 Jun, 2009 Lead dog ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.
with john
ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.
with john
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead RP
bigie bob 24 May, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 23 May, 2008 Lead rpt
hamer89 22 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
Toby ?Aug, 2006 Lead RP
with Tom N
with Tom N
Andy Farnell 23 Jul, 2006 Lead RP Very good route, pumpy at the top.
Very good route, pumpy at the top.
hutch ?Jul, 2006 -
nige 1 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
with jenny woodward
with jenny woodward
mgeek ??, 2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
with Tom Bolger
Boy ??, 2006 -
Henners 1 Sep, 2005 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
with Alan Cassidy
Rich Kirby 2 Jun, 2004 Lead RP
with Stone
with Stone
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead RP
Tom Briggs ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
marky 15 Sep, 2002 Lead RP
Cassidy 25 Jun, 2002 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
with Scottish Raiding Party
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead RP
Billg ?Jul, 1995 Lead RP 1st redpoint
with Phil McAllistair
1st redpoint
with Phil McAllistair
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 Lead O/S Bit of a guess on the date, remember having to try pretty hard at the top
with Paul Cornforth
Bit of a guess on the date, remember having to try pretty hard at the top
with Paul Cornforth
Steve Crowe 28 Aug, 1994 Lead RP 1st RP (I put the clips in and sorted out the sequence then did it next go).
with karin
1st RP (I put the clips in and sorted out the sequence then did it next go).
with karin
crossleysm ?Jul, 1994 Lead RP
Mike Owen 29 May, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
TCP ??, 1994 Lead RP Red point 2nd day with larry parkes and probably Al Bennett
Red point 2nd day with larry parkes and probably Al Bennett
Hidden 31 Jul, 1993 Lead
keefe ??, 1993 -
Mike Owen 22 Jul, 1992 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 29 Jun, 1991 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Jun, 1990 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1990 Lead
Mike Owen 21 Jun, 1989 Lead RP
with Dave Hinton
with Dave Hinton
25 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set