Rockfax Description
A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, Northern Limestone for Catalans, Maybe routes in 2018.

PeteH 06/Sep/17 Lead RP

Think I started trying this at a particular strength/stamina low point, but still surprised how long it took me. Brilliant route, shame the start is so often wet.

will9911 30/Jul/17 Lead RP

Good to tick this a few weeks after my arm was out of a cast, showing no strength was required!

Hidden 23/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Jun/17 Lead RP
PeterDawson 27/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/17 Lead dog
robertmctague 23/Apr/17 Lead RP

In a session pretty much, had tried once a few years ago and couldn't touch it. Fell off the top jugs on one attempt because I hadn't rehearsed it. Feeling like the training is definitely working, feeling stronger than ever.

with Martin
Hidden ??/2017 -
stp 17/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Start was wet so worked from second bolt to top. Felt much stronger than earlier in the year. Great route, nicely bolted.

with Chris Plant
nai 13/Aug/16 Lead dnf

only had 1.5 attempts, should have stuck at it, top bulge seemed nails but the rest was coming together.

with Theo
miastacey 12/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Bob Smith
realbobsmith 07/Aug/16 Lead RP
piken 02/Jul/16 Lead RP


with Andy
Greg Cunningham 01/Jul/16 Lead dog

Felt really hard and painful holds - will leave it for a while.

with nick warren
Ramon Marin 26/Jun/16 Lead RP

3 attempts

markalmack 25/Jun/16 Lead RP
MichaelGallimore 24/Jun/16 Lead dog

Climbed up to the big pinch move clean first time after putting the first two draws in place. It took a while to work the fat pinch sequence. Tried the red point about 5 times falling at the same point each time but it feels so close!

with jon lawson
blaza1 24/Jun/16 Lead dog

fell off at the crux, great route

with Mark Richardson, liam jones, dan kyte
stp 20/Jun/16 TR dnf

First outdoor climbing since ankle sprain. Just on Debbie's TR. Two goes only - midge invasion. Did all moves to undercut above glued holds but bottom felt hard and not so good for poorly finger.

with Debbie
samrad 16/Jun/16 Lead RP

Good route. Also fell off the last move of dominatrix. Next time.

with Bennykr
nickmoulden ?/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 09/May/16 Lead RP

Glad to have got this done. Got close to doing it in a session last year, then didn't... Feels pretty top end for 7c and quite go-ey due to the bolting, which is sparse (but good).

awsomal 08/May/16 Lead RP
Eduardo Martinez ??/2016 -
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead RP
oread 29/Aug/15 Lead

First 7c, 2 sessions

Glyn 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Wild move to get the spike, full on dyno! Sure there must be as easier way...Did not expect to get this onsight. Fantastic route

with Amy
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead RP
Albert Exley 05/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Wizzy
robman 22/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Did all the moves apart from bottling at the end!

Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 21/Jun/15 Lead RP
Leon Laubscher 06/Jun/15 Lead RP
C coldwell-storry 17/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead dog
Seb Grieve ??/2015 -
henry peter jenkins 08/Sep/14 Lead RP

fun fingery route with an exciting finish :)

with luis bachini
Luke Dawson 02/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Connor Bryne
innes 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Ruth
henry peter jenkins 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
with ian
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
FloTilley ?/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Sarah Pashley
nickmoulden 08/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
jfreeman 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Jeffs
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Jun/14 Lead RP

In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!

with Sam Harvie
Bennykr 22/May/14 Lead RP

Class route. 1 RP.

atapper21 22/May/14 Lead RP
with Ben Reinsch
WB 14/Aug/13 Lead RP

1st 7c - whoop

with Nick
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead dog
julesp 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

So nearly off throwing from the side pull to the top jug. had extended to clip from the final rail but couldn't let go long enough to clip it and it was fight or flight.

with amanda
julesp 11/Aug/12 TR dog

2 overlapping links taking in crux

with amanda and tim
julesp 09/Aug/12 TR dog
with Iain
julesp 08/Aug/12 TR dog
with Iain
julesp 05/Aug/12 TR dog

focused on top section. Sorted out sequence for crux. top moves are going to be my crux. can do the move in isolation but going to be hard to do it after all that climbing!

with Iain
julesp 04/Aug/12 TR dog

fantastic climb. havent worked out how to get to the crimp at the crux sequence. totally knackered after working out a sequence for the first half.

with Iain
Hidden ?/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead RP
GPN 07/Aug/11 Lead dog

Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!

Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Sean_J 09/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
derico 01/Jul/10 Lead RP

Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c

with Cal
NDD 11/Jun/10 Lead

2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.

nickmoulden 18/May/10 Lead RP
with Ako
Jon Garside ?/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
marcpontin ??/2010 Lead RP

awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves

with huw
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
JM ??/2010 -
Alex Mason 16/Aug/09 Lead RP

Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.

Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead β
buzby78 09/Jul/09 Lead RP

3rd go!

with Sam Clarke
dominic lee 05/Jul/09 Lead RP
with neil foster
Gus 04/Jul/09 Lead RP
ksjs 24/Jun/09 Lead dog

ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.

with john
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
bigie bob 24/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Toby ?/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Tom N
Hidden User 56 23/Jul/06 Lead RP

Very good route, pumpy at the top.

nige 01/Jun/06 Lead RP
with jenny woodward
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Boy ??/2006 -
Henners 01/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
Rich Kirby 02/Jun/04 Lead RP
with Stone
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
marky 15/Sep/02 Lead RP
Cassidy 25/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
Hidden ??/1996 Lead RP
Billg ?/Jul/95 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Phil McAllistair
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 Lead O/S

Bit of a guess on the date, remember having to try pretty hard at the top

with Paul Cornforth
Steve Crowe 28/Aug/94 Lead RP

1st RP (I put the clips in and sorted out the sequence then did it next go).

with KM
crossleysm ?/Jul/94 Lead RP
Mike Owen 29/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Graeme Smithy ??/1994 Lead RP

Red point 2nd day with larry parkes and probably Al Bennett

Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead
keefe ??/1993 -
Mike Owen 22/Jul/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 29/Jun/91 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/90 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 Lead
Mike Owen 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
with Dave Hinton
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High 7c
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High 7b+
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Votes cast 52
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set