2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade. 1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay/lower-off. A direct finish up the corner System of a Down, E4 6b gives a technical and equally good but hard alternative. © Rockfax

FA. J.Sumner, D.Alcock 1956. FFA. Pete Livesey, J.Sheard 1972

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Enty 19 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty
Dave Musgrove 12 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave
Chris Craggs 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Quite a lot of vegetation on significant holds. Some wobbly and loose material too. And plenty of seepage after days of dry weather. Enjoyed the first pitch more than second though, but then again did the system of a down 6b direct finish, which was way tough. Nice to top out. Two bolts are 5m back up the slope to protect.
Quite a lot of vegetation on significant holds. Some wobbly and loose material too. And plenty of seepage after days of dry weather. Enjoyed the first pitch more than second though, but then again did the system of a down 6b direct finish, which was way tough. Nice to top out. Two bolts are 5m back up the slope to protect.
Climber53 ??, 2018 -
JendeHoxar 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 14 May, 2017 2nd
Hidden ??, 2017 -
noshjewbold 15 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Bradbury 26 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Me first pitch which is HVS-ish
Me first pitch which is HVS-ish
Graeme Hammond 26 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Can't believe the weather held, 2 good pitches. led P2, took me a while and almost ran out of steam on the two roofs, beautiful crux sequence going left from the big thread once I'd worked it out.
Can't believe the weather held, 2 good pitches. led P2, took me a while and almost ran out of steam on the two roofs, beautiful crux sequence going left from the big thread once I'd worked it out.
Andrew Wilson 13 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S P1
with Matt Nuttall
P1
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 13 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S lead p2
lead p2
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Owen W-G 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led top pitch, reminiscent of Coronation St, essential tick but not sure David enjoyed it that much. Topped out as it felt totally wrong to ab off the shiny LO on such a traditional route.
Led top pitch, reminiscent of Coronation St, essential tick but not sure David enjoyed it that much. Topped out as it felt totally wrong to ab off the shiny LO on such a traditional route.
PeteH 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Rob Boyle
with Rob Boyle
robman 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete Hart
with Pete Hart
tim newton 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S P2
P2
robertmctague 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S p1
p1
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S p2
p2
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Nick Clement 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Paul Figg
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd Great climb, don't be put off by the grass.
Great climb, don't be put off by the grass.
annep11 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P1. Seeping in places but dry enough. A great line, regardless of the vegetation.
P1. Seeping in places but dry enough. A great line, regardless of the vegetation.
Liam Ingram 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P2. Awesome route!
with annep11
P2. Awesome route!
with annep11
Harry Holmes 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Alex McMillan
with Alex McMillan
alexmcmillan 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Bob ??, 2014 -
mugglewump 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd Fantastic route! Led second pitch. Made climbing through the bulge harder than it should have been. Final traverse excellent.
with John c
Fantastic route! Led second pitch. Made climbing through the bulge harder than it should have been. Final traverse excellent.
with John c
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
markalmack 1 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with ctodd
with ctodd
CragDog 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd
papashango 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S memorable!
with Stu
memorable!
with Stu
Hidden 21 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 5 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Led as a single pitch, great route.
with Dan Mckinley
Led as a single pitch, great route.
with Dan Mckinley
Jonathan Hall 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with RM199
with RM199
RM199 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd dog
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Class trad line. Led both pitches as one. The first half was a breeze but still great climbing, second half was more taxing. Still far easier than anything else at this god-forsaken crag though! ;)
Class trad line. Led both pitches as one. The first half was a breeze but still great climbing, second half was more taxing. Still far easier than anything else at this god-forsaken crag though! ;)
w.pettet-smith ?May, 2011 - felt a bit out of place clanking around with my trad gear! great climbing, especially the two traversy bits on the 2nd pitch. led both.
with simon kimber
felt a bit out of place clanking around with my trad gear! great climbing, especially the two traversy bits on the 2nd pitch. led both.
with simon kimber
Dan Mckinlay ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Dave Musgrove 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd Warm-up for Claws! Still a superb route in its own right.
Warm-up for Claws! Still a superb route in its own right.
Hanski 24 Jul, 2010 2nd
simon kimber 24 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob Sandercock, Hanski
with Rob Sandercock, Hanski
middlevern 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mike Blood
with Mike Blood
Ewan Russell 21 May, 2010 AltLd O/S dave did crux.
dave did crux.
Dave Warburton 21 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Awesome.
Awesome.
Hidden ?May, 2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??, 2010 Lead
kingholmesy ??, 2010 Lead O/S Led both pitches.
with Richard (Broughton)
Led both pitches.
with Richard (Broughton)
Hidden 13 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
DSM 6 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Tremendous outing this in an old fashioned sort of way - you get to climb a tree half way through the top pitch too! I recommend topping out rather than abbing off for the full experience.
with Andy Gittins
Tremendous outing this in an old fashioned sort of way - you get to climb a tree half way through the top pitch too! I recommend topping out rather than abbing off for the full experience.
with Andy Gittins
Hidden 10 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
pauldrew 5 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
mattyork2 1 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
gingerkate 23 May, 2008 2nd dog First pitch fine, ballsed up 2nd pitch rather a lot :oS
with I
First pitch fine, ballsed up 2nd pitch rather a lot :oS
with I
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Dave Lacey 7 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S No E-points; Daniel led the crux pitch.
with Daniel Justice
No E-points; Daniel led the crux pitch.
with Daniel Justice
Hidden 12 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
joe larner 3 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Bruce
with Bruce
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Phill Mitch ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with mick
with mick
Hidden 6 Aug, 2006 AltLd
Alex Mason 7 Jun, 2006 AltLd i led second pitch which proved too be quite a pumpy struggle on both the forearms and the calves, trying to rest under the bulge wasnt happening. good traversey bits though
i led second pitch which proved too be quite a pumpy struggle on both the forearms and the calves, trying to rest under the bulge wasnt happening. good traversey bits though
reg_measures 7 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Richard Sharpe
with Richard Sharpe
Ram MkiV 7 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S I did easy 1st pitch
with Alex
I did easy 1st pitch
with Alex
Hidden 23 Apr, 2006 AltLd
Ally Smith ??, 2006 Lead O/S Date is a guess
with EmilyG
Date is a guess
with EmilyG
Enty ??, 2006 -
Brown 16 Jul, 2005 AltLd
with Neil
with Neil
chrishedgehog 28 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Tom from D.R.
with Tom from D.R.
Hidden 10 Jun, 2005 Lead
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
Alastair R ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
nige 27 Jun, 2004 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
shoulders 10 Jul, 2002 AltLd
with AL
with AL
pezzerrr 10 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??, 2002 -
with WB
with WB
Roget 2 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
chris skipton ??, 2000 AltLd O/S A great climb on a perfect evening.
with steve brock
A great climb on a perfect evening.
with steve brock
tmawer ??, 1999 Lead O/S
steveb2006 13 Aug, 1995 Lead Nice route
with Ian Cartwright
Nice route
with Ian Cartwright
Hidden 13 Aug, 1995 2nd
Mike_d78 13 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 10 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 1995 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 12 Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S L,2. Again 24/7/04 with Dave Fooks.
L,2. Again 24/7/04 with Dave Fooks.
Bruce Kerr 1 May, 1994 AltLd
with geomac
with geomac
D Tempest 5 Sep, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Rick
with Rick
Mick King 13 Jul, 1993 AltLd Lead P2
with Simon Walsh
Lead P2
with Simon Walsh
Stoney Boy 10 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S Pitch 2
with Neil McCallum
Pitch 2
with Neil McCallum
rob.grafton 14 Mar, 1993 AltLd
with Bruce
with Bruce
Hidden ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 12 Jul, 1992 AltLd
with Paul Fatti
with Paul Fatti
Hidden ?Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
Andy Say 17 Jun, 1992 Lead
pete johnson 27 May, 1992 2nd
with James Ward
with James Ward
Ian Jones ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with Neil Molnar (Noddy)
with Neil Molnar (Noddy)
crossleysm ??, 1992 Lead
WB ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
mik1miller ??, 1992 Lead derek tried the lead but took a biggish fall i took over and did the route good cold day out
with derek johnson
derek tried the lead but took a biggish fall i took over and did the route good cold day out
with derek johnson
andy@ark ?Jul, 1990 Lead dnf Nearly managed it.
with Ian Paterson
Nearly managed it.
with Ian Paterson
Steve Crowe 24 Jun, 1990 Lead seconded myself (to many spiders for my partner)
seconded myself (to many spiders for my partner)
ajtay ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24 May, 1989 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 17 May, 1989 AltLd
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 Lead
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 2nd
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 2nd
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 2nd
uphillnow ??, 1989 Lead lead on both pitches
lead on both pitches
Rich Kirby ??, 1989 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 24 Apr, 1988 2nd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead
Dave Musgrove 16 Jul, 1987 AltLd I led top pitch
with Rupert Wyard
I led top pitch
with Rupert Wyard
Neil McA 30 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Roy Ruddle
with Roy Ruddle
Hidden 19 Jul, 1986 Lead
Neil R 15 Jun, 1986 Lead O/S
with Sharon
with Sharon
MikeYouCanClimb 3 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 25 Apr, 1985 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Hammy 12 Mar, 1985 2nd
with Fai Kwong
with Fai Kwong
daviesxxx ??, 1985 -
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 AltLd
with Ian Fenton
with Ian Fenton
andybirtwistle 4 Jul, 1983 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Hidden 21 Apr, 1982 AltLd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set