Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m, 6 - 8 hours. A stunning line where good conditions are rare but essential if the route is to bear any resemblance to this description. When dry, it is hard, loose and scary. If you get it good, the climbing is fantastic and the ambience amazing. The belays are not fixed so exactly how you break up the pitches may vary. Climb the Eugster Diagonal and continue straight up where it branches off left. A further 200m of gradually steepening snow leads to the five proper pitches.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des PĂ©lerins. The path ends up on a moraine ridge with the Glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge and where it drifts left towards the Peigne Normal Route head directly towards the Tournier Spur. For the Frendo Spur, follow the path up the moraine ridge and then cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the spur. There is some serac and rockfall danger on the final section of the approach and at the start of the route, so get established on the initial ramp before stopping for a drink! For the Eugster routes, continue traversing to the next snowy bay. The Eugster Diagonal begins from here.
1) Follow 50m of 70 degree ice and belay on the right.
2) Step left and climb 15m of 85 degree ice. Ignore the line going straight up and, instead, move left and continue up to a ridge and a spike belay 5m higher.
3) Stay on the left of the gully and climb enjoyable mixed ground for 50m to a stance below a huge jammed block.
4) Climb thin ice to the block and get around it on the right. Continue up the gully to belay on the left beneath the final icy runnel. A long pitch!
5) The crux pitch, which is harder than it initially appears. Climb the runnel and pass a steepening after 20m to reach easier ground. (If the steepening is not climbable, it is usually possible to escape out leftwards to join the final snow slopes.)
Finish up the final snow slopes of the Mallory-Porter. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Alpine Grande Courses.

alexm198 20/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Cracking route. Conditions on the crux were pretty thin but beautiful styrofoam on the other pitches.

Ken Applegate 20/Oct/15 AltLd

Great route throughout. Crux was thin, but other than that in brilliant condition.

Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
edek_w 20/Feb/15 -

Conditions not so good. Much snow on first part, dry difficult section and hard ice on the exit snow fields. But liked this.

with Rafal Zajac
Dave Almond 19/Oct/14 AltLd

Started climbing at midday. The bottom pitch not formed so gave exciting wet tooling. We climbed into the ensuing storm with the crux pitches done in the dark and lots of spindrift during the whole route.

Hidden 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond 05/Oct/10 AltLd
nick arding 23/Mar/10 AltLd
frost 03/Jan/09 AltLd
with M Thomas
mike.moss ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead
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