Rockfax Description
One of the classic sport routes of Britain. A brilliant climb with an infamous tough start and a strength-sapping middle section to pass some stubborn bulges. Getting a well-informed local to tell you where to put your feet helps on the start. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1984

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Classic UK F7s, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong.

Hidden 16/Sep Lead dog
Hidden 09/Sep Lead dog
Hidden 05/Sep Lead dog
Dave Mayes 09/Jul Lead RP


with Nuala, James, Emily
Hidden 15/Jun Lead dog
Ramon Marin 13/May Lead RP

Felt easy today, put the clips in to warm up then sent

with viki harvey
Hidden 11/May Lead
Hidden 09/May Lead RP
Ramon Marin 01/May Lead dog

Shambles! 3 sessions on it but completely shut down, haven't crimped for 3 weeks at The Red, and it did show. Next time.

with viki harvey
pablosordo 01/May Lead dog


with ximo
Hidden 17/Apr Lead dog
Graeme Smithy ?/Apr Lead rpt

And again

Hidden ??/2017 -
noshjewbold 23/Oct/16 Lead RP

Amazing route managed to send it 4 or 5th session on my 3rd go getting through the start

with Nick Weightman
funsized 18/Oct/16 Lead RP

Bit of a struggle! Took the flight quite a few times. What a route...

with Jim
oread 15/Oct/16 Lead

After to falling off the easy bit to many times!

AlistairB 01/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Lisa
PeterDawson 01/Oct/16 Lead β
FloTilley 11/Sep/16 Lead RP
with James
Billg 04/Sep/16 Lead RP

Been on my tick list for 20 years. Brilliant route (almost as good as Return of the Gunfighter) ;o)

with Will Calvert
Ben Alan Wilson 03/Sep/16 Lead RP

Awesome. Struggled with the start for a while then on Thursday I did it easily and got halfway up just to have my foot pop off on the same hold as it popped off on mescalito on first rp. Just needed good conditions

with Awsomal
robertmctague 09/Aug/16 Lead RP

In a session, did it twice. Had done Mescalito before.

with Jonny
dominic lee 16/Jul/16 Lead RP

Great fight. 2nd go

FreddieSmith 05/Jul/16 Lead RP

God damn this route is fantastic, last go of the last day of my first trip to malham. Drop knee bridgey madness, out of the box rests and ferocious undercut wrestling. Superb.

Glyn 19/Jun/16 Lead RP

1st rpt today, had been on it briefly a year ago. Wow, what a route!

JCAshman 29/May/16 Lead RP

Ace route

Hidden 25/May/16 Lead RP
liamlonsdale 23/May/16 Lead RP

What a journey. Dropped it above the crux on session one thinking it was in the bag ... another five sessions under my belt and it finally went. What an absolutely STUNNING route.

with Leah Crane
Hidden 22/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Haydn Jones 21/Apr/16 Lead β

Maybe I'm fitter than i thought. At the end of the day too!

with stephen hickie
Hidden 29/Mar/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Mar/16 TR dnf
harvie ??/2016 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/2016 -
Tommyads ??/2016 -

Loved every failed redpoint as much as the successful one. Took the lob 3 times.

Adam Lincoln 17/Oct/15 Lead RP

Second go

with Adam Jeewooth
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead dog
OERees 08/Oct/15 Lead RP
OERees 06/Oct/15 Lead dog
OERees 05/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 21/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rab Carrington, Steve Mcclure, Alberte1996
1poundSOCKS 21/Sep/15 Lead RP

Last minute change of beta and new shoes made it feel pretty steady in the end. Always have to wait until I'm getting bored of a route before I send it. Despite that, it is a great route. Now, what about that 8a finish...

malx 13/Sep/15 Lead RP

Amazing! good battle

Duncan Campbell 13/Sep/15 Lead dog

Wow. Hard. Didn't even do the start tried but find it incredibly burly. Did all the moves afterwards I think though it's still tough. But amazing climbing definitely one I'd like to do!

tim newton 03/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Matt Coburn
Nickc ?/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Simon lee
Joshua Robertson ?/Sep/15 Lead RP
with olly
richiebongo 31/Aug/15 Lead dog
david morse 27/Aug/15 Lead RP

Fourth session. What a route!

Adam Booth 19/Aug/15 Lead RP

Amazing. Really wanted to get this in a session. Didn't go without a fight, and damn nearly took the mega ride again!! Great route!

MichaelGallimore 04/Aug/15 Lead

4th or 5th evening trying this. Finally got on it after a weeks rest. Felt fresh at the slopers!

with jon lawson
will9911 19/Jul/15 Lead RP
ollyisaclimber 13/Jun/15 Lead RP

3rd session, 5th RP attempt. Great route!

markalmack 28/May/15 Lead RP

I don't like redpointing!

WB 21/May/15 Lead RP

At last. Think i first tried this 2 or 3 years ago, and had never actually managed the starting move - until today. Boom.

samwillo 16/May/15 Lead

Warmed up on it, putting draws in. Pretty steady but the start is the thing of nightmares.

with Malham Crowd
robertmichaellovell 04/May/15 TR dog

Did all the moves, and some good sections. Potential project

with Tim
JamesTurnbull97 04/May/15 Lead RP

11th tie in, 6th RP, 3rd session. Absolutely psyched to do this, I think I'm finally getting some route fitness, although still had to fight at the top.

nicolat ?/May/15 TR


Hidden 28/Apr/15 Lead dog
Stu Lightford 13/Apr/15 Lead dog
with cjd91
cjd91 13/Apr/15 Lead RP

So happy to have ticked this! Was blowing out my arse at the run out!!

Tophe 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Jerome
drysori 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead RP
OERees 02/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Oct/14 Lead dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 06/Sep/14 Lead RP

2nd Session, 4th Redpoint. What a great route!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Sam Underhill
rikbattye 08/Aug/14 Lead RP
Adam Booth 01/Aug/14 Lead dog

One RP attempt after a quick look at the moves bolt to bolt. Messed up the bottom bit so tried to do second bolt to the top - came unstuck on the big flatty and took the ride! Then seemed terminal fatigue had kicked in and had to go bolt to bolt at the top again. Didn't feel that hard but I need to be fitter next time!

Ed Booth 01/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Rob Ireson, Adam Booth
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/14 -
nathanlee 03/May/14 Lead RP

such a classic

with Dom Lee
Nick Sillem 30/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
thebigfriendlymoose 12/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Stephen
Hidden 17/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead RP
innes 09/Aug/13 Lead RP

1st RP, with a hangover from last night's celebrations. Happy days!

with Ruth
Bennykr 04/Jul/13 Lead RP

First 7c, so psyched. 2nd RP.

with Andy tappa, Dan Green
will smith11 25/Jun/13 Lead RP

most fun ive had climbing in a while

with Buster
C coldwell-storry 14/May/13 Lead RP

Tried it once a year or so ago. first go 2day.

littleluke 10/May/13 TR dnf
blaza1 04/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Mar/13 Lead RP
PeteH 14/Sep/12 Lead RP

First F7c. Gazillionth redpoint, having used a terrible sequence for the boulder start for ages and ages before finally being shown the way last week.

Ed Booth 17/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Didnt get to the top. Chanced it but unfortuantely it had a big wet section on it. Another time.

Dave Warburton 05/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Dogged up to just below ledge and fell off into space. Just the one go today.

with Jacob, Luke Tilley
highrepute 05/Jun/12 Lead RP
jfreeman 17/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Apr/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead
steepstuff ??/2012 Lead RP

Fluffed the first move due to hole in boot! Changed shoes for the new pair and sent first go..

with Simon
khawk 21/Aug/11 Lead dog
with DT
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead RP
nickmoulden 21/Jun/11 Lead RP

fell off the start like a noob, got back on and onsighted to the top putting the clips in

with Dalvinda Dunning
everettchris8 16/Jun/11 Lead

brilliant route. one of the best i've ever done

Dave Parton 14/Jun/11 Lead
with Adam Ellwood
nick bamber 14/Apr/11 Lead RP

climbed in good style, did not extend ledge bolt and clipped off crimp

jacobjacob 03/Apr/11 Lead RP

I just kept falling off... must get fitter!

Apharri ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Marie Richards
marcpontin ?/Apr/11 TR dog
with huw
bigie bob 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Mike Owen 21/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Sam the Butcher 08/Jul/10 Lead RP

The living end. So impressed Ross flashed this.

with ross hunt
dj_brigham05 19/May/10 Lead dog
Ed Booth 17/May/10 Lead dog

First redpoint attempt, came off going through the last roof. Missed a massive jug out. after that just too tired to keep it together.

Jon Garside ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
Alex Mason 23/Mar/10 Lead RP

Awesome. Best sport route ive done yet. Nasty start gives way to some amazing undercutty climbing. Superb.

Hidden 16/Oct/09 Lead
JulesV 22/Sep/09 Lead RP

Tried it years ago then lead first try after puting the clips in. What does that count as - retro 1st redpoint? Awesome route either way!

willackers 18/May/09 Lead RP

Fell high on the flash then managed it first redpoint, best rout I've done at Malham

with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
NDD 17/May/09 Lead
with Stu, Will, Chris
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead RP
derico 12/Apr/09 Lead RP

What an awesome route and I think the best I have ever done to date! I am afraid that I pulled off the big right hand undercut near the end of pumpy sequence just before the big flat sloper (Took a mega lob whilst doing this!).. still goes though and not much harder, just even more classic as no more loose holds!

Hidden ??/2009 -
mgeek ?/Oct/08 Lead RP

probably best 7c in UK

with robi philips
Toby Dunn 27/Sep/08 Lead RP
with bruno
Ally Smith ?/Aug/08 Lead RP

Date a guess

Gus 08/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Rob Clifton
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead rpt
lx 03/Jul/08 Lead
with fat boy
Ram MkiV 22/May/08 Lead RP

2nd session, 2nd rp today. awesome.

with Al
Hidden 10/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/08 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Oct/07 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead RP
Tony Little 08/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Lucy Ellis
Paul Forster ??/2007 -
Hidden 13/Aug/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Cassidy 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
Henners 01/Jul/05 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
Rich Kirby 15/Jun/04 Lead RP
with Ant
Mike Owen 12/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 05/Sep/03 Lead RP
nige 04/Jul/03 Lead RP
with sam watts
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/03 Lead RP
kristian ??/2002 Lead O/S
buzby78 16/Oct/99 Lead RP
with Jeramaia
Mike Owen 04/Jul/99 Lead rpt

Last day at Malham before moving to France.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 03/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 14/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 19/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/May/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
marky 04/Oct/97 Lead RP
Mike Owen 27/Sep/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 09/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt
Mike Owen 29/Jun/97 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 08/Mar/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Oct/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Sep/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Sep/96 Lead rpt

Led it twice at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/Sep/96 Lead rpt

Led it twice before doing Raindogs.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 30/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 23/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 06/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Dalvinda Sodhi
Mike Owen 02/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 31/May/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/May/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 11/May/96 Lead RP
sadams 21/Apr/96 Lead RP

2 days

Mike Owen 21/Apr/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with John Holmes, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 30/Sep/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Sep/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Jul/95 Lead rpt

Led twice at end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 17/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 11/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/May/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/May/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Steve Tonks
Mike Owen 25/Mar/95 Lead rpt
with Andy Mitchell
Mike Owen 26/Feb/95 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
Hidden User 56 ??/1995 Lead RP
with Aaron Tonks
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Graeme Smithy ?/Oct/94 Lead RP

polished start even in 1994 - great route for using to get fitness to do the groove.

with John Sheard and Al Bennett
Mike Owen 27/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with Perry & Sue
Mike Owen 17/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with John Sheard, Eric Rooseberry
Mike Owen 02/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with Nige Preston, Elaine Owen
djmarko75 ?/Sep/94 Lead β

Did with leo.

Mike Owen 08/Jun/94 Lead rpt

Led 4 times at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
crossleysm ?/Jun/94 Lead RP
Mike Owen 27/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Ian Jones ??/1994 2nd dog

Absolutely no problems with any of the moves. just need the stamina.

with Joe Piccallilli
Mike Owen 01/Sep/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
ukb & bmc shark 14/Aug/93 Lead RP
Mike Owen 04/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 18/Jul/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/Mar/93 Lead rpt
with Tony Simpson, Ian Vincent
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Seb Grieve ??/1993 Lead RP

Can't stand the groove after the start but great pumpy top bit.

Mike Owen 10/Oct/92 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
jfletcher 27/Aug/92 Lead RP
with Graham Baxter
Pedro50 20/Aug/92 Lead RP
with A. Belayer
Hidden 14/Aug/92 Lead RP
Mike Owen 30/May/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Apr/92 Lead rpt
with Steve Roberts
Paul Clarke ??/1992 2nd

Never managed the lead but should have on this occasion

Mike Owen 23/Jun/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 13/Apr/91 Lead rpt
with Geoff Turner, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jul/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 14/Jul/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen, Phil Davidson
Mike Owen 31/Mar/90 Lead rpt
with John Hartley
Andy Hyslop ?/Mar/90 -
keefe ??/1990 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1990 -
with keefe
Mike Owen 15/Jul/89 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -

RP same day as Main Overhang. great day...

with Colin Lambton
Mike Owen 02/Oct/87 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High 7c
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High 7b+
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Votes cast 59
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set