22m.

Rockfax Description
Malham's first 8a. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below a chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky, however the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties with fingery moves on side-pulls, with always the nagging question as to whether to clip the crucial bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003.

Ticklists

THE classic old skool 8a's, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, 2016 Crush-fest, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Classic Lobs, Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John Cooke 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
robertmctague 3 Sep Lead RP 3rd session. Brilliant route, one of the best I've done so far.
with Martin
3rd session. Brilliant route, one of the best I've done so far.
with Martin
Owen Diba 17 Aug Lead dog very psyched on this!
very psyched on this!
RBonney 19 May Lead dog 1 working go getting the moves to half way done. Then another "go" stick clipping to the top in the dark to retrieve the draws.
with GabyT
1 working go getting the moves to half way done. Then another "go" stick clipping to the top in the dark to retrieve the draws.
with GabyT
RBonney 18 May Lead dog First go on an 8a. It felt hard but the right sort of difficulty for a long term project. Only did about half the moves.
with GabyT
First go on an 8a. It felt hard but the right sort of difficulty for a long term project. Only did about half the moves.
with GabyT
Hidden ?Apr Lead RP
Duncan Campbell 17 Feb Lead dog Much digging and clip sticking and I didn’t do all the moves. This thing is a step up from anything I’ve ever climbed before. But keen to try again to see if I can figure out how to do it and if it is possible for a punter like me...
with Wft
Much digging and clip sticking and I didn’t do all the moves. This thing is a step up from anything I’ve ever climbed before. But keen to try again to see if I can figure out how to do it and if it is possible for a punter like me...
with Wft
Ethan 11 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
with Don Walker
with Don Walker
accynez 9 Sep, 2018 Lead RP A very protracted siege! By far the most effort I have ever put into a single route. Satisfied and relieved in equal measure. F8a+
with Al Wilson, Big Mike, Ben Wilson, Mitch
A very protracted siege! By far the most effort I have ever put into a single route. Satisfied and relieved in equal measure. F8a+
with Al Wilson, Big Mike, Ben Wilson, Mitch
Mischa2912 3 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with Tjebbe Zwart
with Tjebbe Zwart
TCP 2 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Hard 8a - very technical even for Malham, skipped the clip and took the ride a few times before thinking better of it and clipping it, did it that go. The head wall is pretty fierce on a series of sharp left hand side pulls.
with Dale Holding,
Hard 8a - very technical even for Malham, skipped the clip and took the ride a few times before thinking better of it and clipping it, did it that go. The head wall is pretty fierce on a series of sharp left hand side pulls.
with Dale Holding,
spidermonkey09 13 May, 2018 Lead RP Get in! Skipped the clip which made for a deathly silent crag while I got my breath back at the flake. Think Al is even more psyched than me that I won't take the ride again. Absolutely magnificent climbing, class from start to finish. I hope I never do another 8a this hard!
Get in! Skipped the clip which made for a deathly silent crag while I got my breath back at the flake. Think Al is even more psyched than me that I won't take the ride again. Absolutely magnificent climbing, class from start to finish. I hope I never do another 8a this hard!
Keendan 6 May, 2018 Lead dnf Tried the moves quickly to 3/4 height.
with Duncan Bottrill
Tried the moves quickly to 3/4 height.
with Duncan Bottrill
noshjewbold 29 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Pleased to finish this off today, really good climbing on some not so good holds. Psyched
Pleased to finish this off today, really good climbing on some not so good holds. Psyched
Ben Wilson 30 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Was psyching myself out on the hard clipbut just had to believe I could do it.Very technical for malham and pretty crimpy
with awsomal
Was psyching myself out on the hard clipbut just had to believe I could do it.Very technical for malham and pretty crimpy
with awsomal
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 18 Sep, 2017 Lead
C coldwell-storry 29 May, 2017 Lead RP
with Jake Rogers
with Jake Rogers
steveleahy 17 May, 2017 Lead RP What a route, loved every minute of climbing this. Tried it 3 years ago and wasn't strong enough but got it this time after maybe 6 sessions (ish), 2nd 8a. Happy days. Skipped the clip which gave me enough beans to finish.
What a route, loved every minute of climbing this. Tried it 3 years ago and wasn't strong enough but got it this time after maybe 6 sessions (ish), 2nd 8a. Happy days. Skipped the clip which gave me enough beans to finish.
Matt Cooke 29 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Haydn Jones 13 Oct, 2016 Lead RP did really well on my on-sight attempt, got up to the high right side pull on the head wall before you move back left.
did really well on my on-sight attempt, got up to the high right side pull on the head wall before you move back left.
PeterDawson 1 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 16 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
nathanlee 10 Sep, 2016 Lead RP Had a day on it in may and should've done it, then the housemartins made it their home. Great to finish it off smoothly. Didn't skip the clip
Had a day on it in may and should've done it, then the housemartins made it their home. Great to finish it off smoothly. Didn't skip the clip
np134 18 May, 2016 Lead RP
with TRFrost
with TRFrost
JamesTurnbull97 30 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 4th go, 3rd on the day, 1st RP. Didn't really expect it, just had a go to how far I'd get which turned out to be the top. Almost fell off going to the flake after the trav which would have been exciting with the skipped draw.
4th go, 3rd on the day, 1st RP. Didn't really expect it, just had a go to how far I'd get which turned out to be the top. Almost fell off going to the flake after the trav which would have been exciting with the skipped draw.
JM 24 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Got set up for the final throw on the crux of Well Dunne Finish but didn't commit fully as the position of the last draw wraps the rope around your ankle. Changed the beta to take slopey crimp with my right hand and throw to the shelf with my left hand - much less reach dependent.
with Anna Reiners
Got set up for the final throw on the crux of Well Dunne Finish but didn't commit fully as the position of the last draw wraps the rope around your ankle. Changed the beta to take slopey crimp with my right hand and throw to the shelf with my left hand - much less reach dependent.
with Anna Reiners
JM 24 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Got slopey crimp on Well Dunne Finish but my foot came off the foothold trying to get the rope off my ankle. Found the foothold eventually but couldn't make the throw to the shelf.
with Anna Reiners
Got slopey crimp on Well Dunne Finish but my foot came off the foothold trying to get the rope off my ankle. Found the foothold eventually but couldn't make the throw to the shelf.
with Anna Reiners
JM 23 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Got the side pull on the Well Dunne Finish crux but was too pumped to move.
with Anna Reiners
Got the side pull on the Well Dunne Finish crux but was too pumped to move.
with Anna Reiners
JM 22 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with Anna Reiners
with Anna Reiners
OERees 4 Nov, 2015 Lead dog Wet.
Wet.
OERees 28 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
OERees 21 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
thebigfriendlymoose 17 Oct, 2015 Lead RP It ends: a siege so prolonged, bloody, and idiotic it resembled Stalingrad re-enacted by the knights out of Monty Python and the Holy Grail . A surprise late season tick after a long break. Absence makes the heart grow fonder and the fingers grow stronger!
It ends: a siege so prolonged, bloody, and idiotic it resembled Stalingrad re-enacted by the knights out of Monty Python and the Holy Grail . A surprise late season tick after a long break. Absence makes the heart grow fonder and the fingers grow stronger!
OERees 17 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
OERees 14 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 13 Oct, 2015 Lead RP felt like an 8a+
felt like an 8a+
Hidden 9 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
piken 1 Oct, 2013 Lead RP Great route
with Al
Great route
with Al
mikenty 19 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
with NDD
with NDD
NDD 8 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Less of a epic than usual.
Less of a epic than usual.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2012 TR dnf
jacobjacob 14 Mar, 2012 Lead RP First proper redpoint after a few working goes. So psyched to get this done today, especially as the last two holds of the crux and the whole upper wall were sopping wet.
First proper redpoint after a few working goes. So psyched to get this done today, especially as the last two holds of the crux and the whole upper wall were sopping wet.
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 24 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
with Ruth
with Ruth
Hidden 20 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
nickmoulden 16 Jun, 2011 Lead RP first redpoint
with Dalvinda Dunning
first redpoint
with Dalvinda Dunning
Hidden 13 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 7 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Apharri 1 May, 2011 Lead RP
with Andre Hedger
with Andre Hedger
bigie bob 15 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
Apharri ?Apr, 2011 Lead RP
with Marie Richards
with Marie Richards
Ally Smith 19 Mar, 2011 Lead RP YYFY!
YYFY!
andyinnes 21 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2009 Lead dog
Ally Smith 10 Apr, 2009 TR dog
Ally Smith 27 Sep, 2008 Lead dog Fell from last hard move to flake; New sequence look promising!
Fell from last hard move to flake; New sequence look promising!
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs 28 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with Aide Jebb
with Aide Jebb
Hidden 18 Jun, 2008 TR rpt
lx 12 Jun, 2008 Lead amazing. Best route i have ever done. Hard, feels like a step up from other 8a's i've done.
with jonny
amazing. Best route i have ever done. Hard, feels like a step up from other 8a's i've done.
with jonny
Hidden 18 May, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 19 Apr, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Apr, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden ?Apr, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 4 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
Cassidy 30 Jul, 2005 Lead RP
with Henners
with Henners
marky ?Apr, 2005 Lead RP
with John
with John
Rich Kirby 23 Sep, 2004 Lead RP First 8a & in my 40th year.....ace.
with antham
First 8a & in my 40th year.....ace.
with antham
nige 9 May, 2004 Lead RP
with dave kells
with dave kells
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 2000 Lead RP
Mike Owen 3 May, 1999 Lead rpt The 48th and last time I did this. Used to place all the draws on lead, even the tricky clip just before the crux. Used to love this route. Moved to France soon after this.
with Elaine Owen
The 48th and last time I did this. Used to place all the draws on lead, even the tricky clip just before the crux. Used to love this route. Moved to France soon after this.
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25 Apr, 1999 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24 Apr, 1999 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28 Mar, 1999 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 6 Sep, 1998 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 19 Jul, 1998 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 31 May, 1998 Lead rpt
with Ewan McCallum
with Ewan McCallum
Mike Owen 25 May, 1998 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28 Mar, 1998 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 4 Oct, 1997 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27 Sep, 1997 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 9 Jul, 1997 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt
with Nige Hunt
sadams 4 May, 1997 Lead RP 4 days over two years
with John Boyle
4 days over two years
with John Boyle
Mike Owen 12 Apr, 1997 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15 Mar, 1997 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12 Oct, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28 Sep, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22 Sep, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 7 Jul, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22 Jun, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 31 May, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28 Apr, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21 Apr, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15 Oct, 1995 Lead rpt
with John Holmes, Elaine Owen
with John Holmes, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 1 Oct, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 30 Sep, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24 Sep, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 23 Jul, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22 Jul, 1995 Lead rpt
with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro, Elaine Owen
with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15 Jul, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt Led four times whilst practising the Well Dunne finish.
with Elaine Owen
Led four times whilst practising the Well Dunne finish.
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 17 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 11 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21 May, 1995 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26 Feb, 1995 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
with Tim Hatch
UKB Shark 1 Oct, 1994 Lead RP
with Dave Marsh
with Dave Marsh
Mike Owen 27 Sep, 1994 Lead rpt
with Perry & Sue
with Perry & Sue
Mike Owen 2 Sep, 1994 Lead rpt
with Nige Preston, Elaine Owen
with Nige Preston, Elaine Owen
djmarko75 ?Sep, 1994 Lead dnf Tried this with Leo.
Tried this with Leo.
Mike Owen 5 Jun, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27 May, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26 May, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 1 May, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 4 Sep, 1993 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27 Aug, 1993 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 4 Aug, 1993 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 1 Aug, 1993 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 18 Jul, 1993 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
jfletcher 20 Jun, 1993 Lead RP Skipped the bolt and took the huge lob on RP attempt the day before success (and all bolts clipped!)
with Glen Sutcliffe
Skipped the bolt and took the huge lob on RP attempt the day before success (and all bolts clipped!)
with Glen Sutcliffe
Seb Grieve ??, 1993 Lead RP Wow! So chuffed to do this classic. Recall spying the line before it was climbed. Never dreamed I'd climb this piece of rock.
Wow! So chuffed to do this classic. Recall spying the line before it was climbed. Never dreamed I'd climb this piece of rock.
keefe 23 Aug, 1992 -
Dave Douglas 23 Mar, 1991 Lead dog Flashed to high on route. Alas I didn't make it.
with Stuart Cameron
Flashed to high on route. Alas I didn't make it.
with Stuart Cameron
Mike Owen 4 Apr, 1990 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1990 Lead RP My 1st 8a.. I think
with keefe
My 1st 8a.. I think
with keefe
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1990 - 1st 8a - pumpy!
with Dave Cuthbertson
1st 8a - pumpy!
with Dave Cuthbertson
Mike Owen 24 Sep, 1989 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen, Phil Ralph
with Elaine Owen, Phil Ralph
Mick Lovatt ??, 1988 -
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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set